The Stinky French Sausage 法国臭香肠

埃米莉·莫纳科/文 卢屹/译

One volunteer-based group is committed to preserving this cultural legacy.

一个以志愿者为主的团队致力于保护这一文化遗产。

The Telegraph writes that it “looks， smells， and tastes as if it should be in a lavatory，” while CNN reports it has “an easily identifiable aroma of decay.” Theyre talking about andouillette， a tripe sausage hailing from1 Frances Champagne region thats as divisive as it is beloved by those who can stomach it.

《每日电讯报》的文章称它“看起来、闻起来、吃起来都像是厕所里的东西”，而美国有线电视新闻网报道说，它有“一种易于辨认的腐臭味”。这两句说的都是安杜伊莱特香肠，一种来自法国香槟地区的内脏香肠。它既惹人争议，又让吃得下它的人爱不释口。

Andouillette boasts several regional variants， but its most well-known form is associated with the city of Troyes： pork tripe is soaked， scalded， sliced， and seasoned with aromatics like onions， nutmeg， and even Champagne. It is then threaded by hand into its casing and simmered for several hours before being sold.

安杜伊莱特香肠有几种因地区而异的做法，其中最有名的一种与特鲁瓦市有关。当地人把猪肚浸泡、汆烫、切片，再用洋葱、肉蔻，甚至香槟酒等芳香佐料来调味。然后，人们用手将猪肚灌入肠衣，炖煮几小时后即可出售。

Its a style that， according to legend， is so delicious it distracted the royal army from their mission to reclaim Troyes during the Wars of Religion， giving the Catholic League the opportunity to counter-attack.

据传，用这个方法做出来的香肠非常美味，致使宗教战争期间执行收复特鲁瓦任务的皇家军队只顾大快朵颐，给了天主教联盟反攻的机会。

“On that day， andouillettes de Troyes made history，” says Laurent Jolivet， president and founder of POPY， a group that controls much of the market share of artisanal andouillette production.

“就在那一天，特鲁瓦的安杜伊莱特香肠创造了历史。”POPY集团的创始人兼总裁洛朗·若利韦表示。手工安杜伊莱特香肠制品的大半市场份额就掌握在POPY集团手中。

Today， andouillette represents just two percent of French charcuterie production， and as the French slowly fall out of love with their ancestral cured meats， andouillette bears the brunt of2 the burden.

如今，安杜伊萊特香肠仅占法国熟食制品产量的2%，而且随着法国人逐渐厌弃祖传的腌肉，安杜伊莱特香肠首当其冲。

This is just one of the issues currently faced by the Association Amicale des Amateurs dAndouillette Authentique （Friendly Association of Lovers of Authentic Andouillette）， a group that， according to its current president， Jacques-Louis Delpal， “was born as a joke，” when five food critics began hosting regular andouillette-focused gatherings in the 1950s. Delpal， too， says he took his presidency “for a laugh” at first.

这只是“正宗安杜伊莱特香肠爱好者友好协会”（简称AAAAA或5A）当前面临的问题之一。据现任主席雅克-路易·德尔帕尔称，该协会的“诞生实属玩笑之举”。上世纪50年代，五位美食评论家开始定期以安杜伊莱特香肠为主题举办聚会。德尔帕尔说自己一开始接任主席也是“出于好玩”。

“But over time，” he says， “I started to take things a bit more seriously. I have to.” And thats because this saus-age can be even worse than its critics claim.

他说：“但是随着时间推移，我开始认真起来。我不得不认真。”这是因为这种香肠的处境可能比评论家们说的更糟糕。

“When youve tasted a few， its quite clear，” says Delpal. “Either its very， very good， or its disgusting. Theres no middle ground.”

“要是你尝过几种，就会明白。”德尔帕尔说，“要么好吃得要命，要么恶心得要死。没有中间地带。”

Its the AAAAAs mission to separ-ate these “aggressive” andouillettes from the crème de la crème3. They make these decisions at a biannual tasting organized at Parisian charcuterie school CEPROC. Today， about 25 producers—both industrial and artisanal—boast the 5A diploma.

AAAAA的使命就是把“添乱的”安杜伊莱特香肠从精品中区分出来。巴黎瑟铂克熟食制品烹饪学校每年举办两次安杜伊莱特香肠品鉴会，会上AAAAA对送评香肠作出认定。现在，已有约25家工业生产商或手工生产者获得了5A证书。

Culinary journalist and 5A vice president Vincent Ferniot noted that the most important factor in their decision-making is： “If we were served this andouillette in a restaurant with the 5A label， would we be disappointed？”

美食记者兼5A副主席樊尚·费尔尼奥指出，他们最看重的考量因素是：“在有5A标志的餐馆里吃到这个安杜伊莱特香肠，我们会失望吗？”

Unlike the AOP4 or AOC5， the 5A diploma is not recognized at the national level， and the volunteer-based organ- ization doesnt have the funds to sue. All they can do is ask nicely， says Ferniot.

不同于AOP或AOC证书，5A证书并非国家级认证，而且5A这个以志愿者为主的组织也没钱打官司。费尔尼奥说，他们能做的只有客气地提出要求。

Its sneaky but understandable that a bistro owner would lie about the provenance of his andouillette. After all， 5A is a marker of quality， which paves the way for a higher price tag.

小餐馆的老板谎报店里安杜伊莱特香肠的来源，虽然可鄙，但也能理解。毕竟，5A是高品质的标志，也为提高标价做了铺垫。

“French people hate paying more for sausage or offal or charcuterie，” Delpal says. “Theyll pay a lot for big cuts of meat or wine， but for an andouillette， when it costs more than 22， 24 euros at a restaurant， they find that expensive. And thats not really fair， because theres a lot more work in an andouillette than in an entrec?te.”

“法国人不喜欢为香肠、下水、熟食多花钱。”德尔帕尔说，“他们愿意为大块肉排或者葡萄酒花一大笔钱。说起安杜伊莱特香肠，一旦餐馆要价超过22或24欧元，他们就觉得太贵。这实在是不太公平，因为做安杜伊莱特香肠可比做大块牛排费工夫得多。”

And its work that takes quite a lot of time and effort to master， not in the least because charcuterie school doesnt actually teach this skill. “They teach charcuterie on the whole， hygiene and all that，” says Delpal. “But to make an andouillette？ For that， you need to go to the source.”

制作安杜伊莱特香肠也是一种要花大量时间和精力才能掌握的活计，尤其是因为熟食制品烹饪学校其实并不教授这项技能。“他们教授熟食的一般知识，卫生要求之类的。”德爾帕尔说，“要做安杜伊莱特香肠？你要找到源头。”

One such source is Christophe Thierry， an AAAAA-recognized charcutier just outside of Troyes. According to Delpal， “pretty much all” of the charcutiers who want to learn this traditional art “spend a day or two” with Thierry.

源头之一就是克里斯托夫·蒂埃里，他是特鲁瓦郊外一位AAAAA认证的熟食店主。据德尔帕尔说，“几乎所有”希望学习这一传统技艺的熟食店主都会“花一两天”去请教蒂埃里。

“Hes one of the most serious ones out there，” he says. “Hes been the most consistent since the beginning.”

“他在行业里头是最认真的人之一。”德尔帕尔说，“打一开始就属他最有恒心。”

Thierry is proud to propagate the art of this regional specialty at the charcuterie he inherited from his father.

在父亲传下来的熟食店里传授制作本地特产香肠的诀窍，蒂埃里感到非常自豪。

“Of course I love doing it， otherwise I wouldnt have them！” he says of teaching fellow charcutiers. “Im always proud and happy to share.”

“我当然高兴做这事，不然也不会让他们来！”他在谈到教授同行时说，“我一直都很自豪，也很乐于分享。”

Locals arent the only ones tempted by it， either. Kyotos Masaki Kubo first discovered andouillette at Paris Brasserie Lipp， and in 2013， he became the first （and only） non-French holder of an AAAAA diploma for the andouillette he makes and serves at his Kyoto bistro， Aux Bons Morceaux.

沉迷安杜伊萊特香肠的不只有当地人。来自京都的久保正树最早在巴黎的力普啤酒馆发现了安杜伊莱特香肠。2013年，他在自己位于京都的小餐馆Aux Bons Morceaux制作和售卖安杜伊莱特香肠，并且凭借店里的香肠成为首位（也是唯一一位）非法国籍AAAAA证书持有人。

Charcutier Adrien De Loeuw took over Charcuterie Marc Colin in Chablis with his partner， Gaelle Hoefman， when Colin retired in 2019. They maintain the 5A certification and continue to make traditional andouillette， but， De Loeuw explains， they also “try to modernize it a bit” for a new generation. He has launched both an andouillette p?té en cro?te6， wrapped in puff pastry， as well as a milder andouillette sausage combining the tripe with meat and fat. The latter brings this dish， traditionally eaten in the winter， onto summertime tables， seeing as， De Loeuw notes， younger folks like to grill the sausage. This trend is nevertheless something Delpal says should be done with caution.

2019年马克·科林退休后，熟食店主阿德里安·德洛乌和搭档加埃尔·霍夫曼一起接手了科林位于沙布利的熟食店。他们保持着5A认证的质量，继续制作传统的安杜伊莱特香肠。不过，德洛乌解释说，他们也为年轻一代“做了一点现代化的尝试”。他推出了一款安杜伊莱特香肠馅的酥皮馅饼，还有一款将内脏、肉、脂肪混合后制成的气味没那么重的安杜伊莱特香肠。后者将这道冬日传统美食搬上了夏日餐桌，因为德洛乌发现年轻人喜欢烤香肠。不过，德尔帕尔认为要谨慎对待这种潮流。

Thierry recommends eating it as simply as possible： “Plain or with a sauce made of Chaource， a local Brie-style cheese with a buttery， creamy center.”

蒂埃里建议吃法要尽量简单：“直接吃，或者配一种用沙乌斯奶酪做的酱，这是本地一种布里风味的奶酪，其内芯浓醇丝滑。”

At Aux Bons Crus in Paris trendy 11th arrondissement， a restaurant modeled on the routier， Margot Dumant serves andouillette coated with a mustard cream sauce， appealing to older clients nostalgic for the once stalwart bistro classic， younger newcomers， and adventurous tourists alike.

在时髦的巴黎第11区，模仿卡车停靠站的餐厅Aux Bons Crus里，玛戈·迪芒推出了淋上芥末奶油酱的安杜伊莱特香肠。这款香肠既吸引了怀念往日小餐馆经典主打菜的老客，也吸引了年轻的新客以及猎奇的游客。

“You really have to suss out7 the client，” she says. While she used to tell foreign diners that andouillette was “a type of sausage，” she has since modified her sales pitch to indicate its assertiveness.

“你必须充分了解顾客。”迪芒说。她以前跟外国食客说安杜伊莱特香肠是“一种香肠”，现在她改进了推销话术，以彰显这种香肠的鲜明特质。

Some who brave it are surprised by how much they enjoy it. The food website The Daily Meal， after mocking its smell and claiming its “best eaten with a peg on your nose，” acquiesced in saying that “the taste is really pretty good.” Terry Durack at Australian Traveller writes that its “heaven on a plate... if you can get past the aggressive aroma.”

一些勇于嘗试的人发现自己竟然很喜欢吃安杜伊莱特香肠。美食网站“每日一道菜”上的文章先是嘲笑它的气味，称“最好把鼻子夹住再吃”，后来又承认“味道确实非常不错”。《澳大利亚旅行者》杂志的特里·杜拉克撰文说它是“盘中的天堂美味……如果你受得了那种刺鼻的气味”。

But the fact that andouillette is div-isive is not necessarily a bad thing， according to Ferniot. In a globalized world of Instagrammable gourmet doughnuts and samey lacto-ferments on tables from Copenhagen to New York， theres something comforting about the perennity of something so polarizing.

然而，费尔尼奥认为，安杜伊莱特香肠惹人争议的现象未必是坏事。在一个全球化的世界里，从哥本哈根到纽约，餐桌上既有网红甜甜圈，也有乏味的乳酸发酵制品，而安杜伊莱特香肠这样喜恶两极化的食物经久不衰，多少令人欣慰。

Of andouillette， he says， “There are loads of people who hate it.”

谈到安杜伊莱特香肠，费尔尼奥说：“不喜欢它的人多得很。”

“But when its good，” he adds， “its like nothing else.”

“但只要做得好，那滋味就无敌了。”他补充道。

（译者为“《英语世界》杯”翻译大赛获奖者）

1 hail from来自；出生于。

2 bear the brunt of sth承受某事的主要压力；首当其冲。

3 crème de la crème〈法语〉精华。  4 AOP = Appellation dOrigine Protégée原产地命名保护认定。  5 AOC = Appellation dOrigine Controllé原产地命名控制认定。自2009年8月起，由AOP取代。

6 p?té en cro?te〈法语〉馅饼。  7 suss out意识到；认识到；发现。