洞庭飞翠百里醉

文/五花肉

洞庭飞翠百里醉

文/五花肉

Drench Yourself in the Aroma of Biluochun

如果说龙井是名满天下的西子佳人，那么碧螺春就像待字闺中的洞庭闺秀，“捻断芳心散碧，翻成雪浪浮花”。据《随见录》记载，“洞庭山有茶，微似 而细，产碧螺峰者尤佳。”以此为据，碧螺春茶的历史最早可以追溯至明朝。

If you compare the world-renowned Longjing to a beauty from the West Lake, Biluochun can be regarded as an elegant lady from Dongting Mountain who is still not betrothed yet. "Pick tea buds in scattered green, and brew tea in surfing leaves". Observation Note records, "Biluochun, similar to Jie Tea , but finer, is found in Dongting Mountain where Biluo Peak produces the premium tea". Based on these records, Biluochun Tea can be dated back to Ming Dynasty.

生长环境得天独厚Unique and Favorable Growing Environment

洞庭山，位于苏州太湖流域，年平均气温在15.5 ℃～16.5 ℃，年降雨量1 200 mm～1 500 mm，空气湿润，土壤呈微酸性，质地疏松，极适宜茶树生长。得天独厚的环境孕育出碧螺春“满身毛、铜丝条、蜜蜂腿、宝绿翠”的特有品质。Dongting Mountain is located in Taihu Lake Region where annual average temperature is between 15.5 ℃～16.5 ℃ and annual rainfall is between 1200 mm～1500 mm. Besides, the air here is humid and the soil is weak acid and porous, which is suitable for the growth of tea trees. The particularly favorable environment nurtures Biluochun with the distinct quality of "fuzz all over the leaves, copper wire shape,bee-leg-like leaf edge, and emerald green color".

碧螺春产区以茶、果间作闻名。明代《茶解》有云：“茶园不宜杂以恶木，唯桂、梅、辛夷、玉兰、玫瑰、苍松、翠竹之类与之间植，亦足以蔽覆霜雪，掩映秋阳。”在洞庭山，茶树、果树交错种植，茶吸果香，花入茶味，造就了“香气鲜浓”的碧螺春。

Biluochun producing area is known for its intercropping of tea trees and fruit trees. Tea Explanation written in Ming Dynasty says: "The tea garden is not suitable to plant poor-quality trees, but to intercrop osmanthus trees, prune trees, magnolia trees,rose trees, green pines and cypresses with tea trees to protect tee trees from frost, snow and autumn sun."In Dongting Mountain, tea trees interplant with fruit trees, so that tea leaves can absorb the fruity and floral aroma, producing fragrant and fresh Biluochun.

茶业品质标准严苛

Strict Quality Standard

每年春分至谷雨前后，是碧螺春的黄金采摘时间，讲究“摘得早、采得嫩、拣得净”，尤以“明前茶”最为名贵，口感也最佳。上品通常为芽叶初展、芽长1.6 cm～2.0 cm的嫩叶，叶形卷如雀舌，俗称“雀舌”，芽叶越大、茸毛越少，则品质越低。

The duration from each Spring Equinox to each Grain Rain is the prime time for picking Biluochun. There are three principles of picking tea leaves: picking in its early growth period, selecting the fresh leaves and screening the standard-compliant leave. Tea leaves,picked before Tomb-sweeping Day, are the most expensive and rarest leaves with the best taste. Top grade tea leaves are mainly fresh bud leaves in its early growth period with 1.6 cm ～ 2.0 cm in length.Their shapes are like birds' tongues, so they are called"Sparrow Tongue". The larger the bud leaves are and the less the fuzz is, the lower the quality is.

优越的生长环境、上等的芽叶原料，加上精心的炒制，方能成就碧螺春原料细嫩、色泽鲜艳、香气鲜浓、滋味鲜醇“一嫩三鲜”的美名，自清代康熙年间起升格为御用贡茶。

Biluochun’s good reputation of delicate raw material,bright color, fresh aroma and mellow taste is due to its advantageous growing environment, superior bud leaves and elaborate stir-frying technique. And it was once the Tribute Tea during Kangxi Period in Qing Dynasty.

地理标志护航发展Protective Development of Geographical Indications

为了更好地保护、推广碧螺春，2009年起，洞庭碧螺春茶实施了新的质量标准——《地理标志产品 洞庭（山）碧螺春茶》（GB/T 18957-2008）。

In order to protect and promote Biluochun in a better way, a new quality standard on Dongting Biluochun Tea, GB/T18957-2008 Products of Geographical Indication-Dongting (Mountain) Biluochun Tea, has been implemented since 2009.

新标准规定了碧螺春茶地理标志产品的保护范围、产品分级、包装贮存等内容，进一步规范了碧螺春茶的种植、加工和销售全过程，助力从“茶树到茶杯”的动态监控，有效维护了洞庭碧螺春的美誉度。

The new standard has specified the protective range,product grading, packing and storage of geographical indicative product of Biluochun Tea, realized the dynamic monitoring "from tea trees to tea cups", further regulated the whole process of planting, processing and selling of Biluochun Tea, and effectively maintained the reputation of Dongting Biluochun.

结 语Conclusion

清茶历经沸水才有浓香，人生历经磨炼方能坦然。碧螺春既有茶叶的清苦，也蕴含果木的甜香，正如人生之路，虽然不免苦涩，而事过境迁后，总有更悠长的甜美。

Green tea is highly flavored after being steeped in the boiling water, while men can be calm and peaceful after undergoing hardships. Biluochun contains not only the insipid and bitter flavor of the tea, but also the sweetness and fragrance of fruit trees. Like the life journey, it is inevitable for you to taste the bitterness,but you can enjoy its longer sweetness as the time goes by.

（支持单位：上海市质量和标准化研究院）