泡好茶的涵义

■蔡荣章

泡好茶的涵义

■蔡荣章

What we mean by Brewing a Good Pot

蔡荣章， 1948年2月生，天福茶学院茶文化系主任、台湾陆羽茶学研究所所长、陆羽茶艺中心总监、无我茶会创办人，中国国际茶文化研究会荣誉副会长主编台湾《茶艺月刊》，出版：《无我茶会》、《现代茶艺》、《无我茶会 180条》、《现代茶思想集》、《茶道教室》、《茶学概论》、《茶道基础篇》、《茶道入门三篇》、《说茶之陆羽茶道》等多部著作，特别值得一提的是 ,蔡先生创办的无我茶会，已成为世界主要喝茶地区通行的茶会形式，目前正在各地爱茶人群中流行开来。

喝好的茶比较有益、听好的音乐比较有益、穿好的衣服比较有益，这样的观念不知道大家能不能接受？有人说好茶与差一点的茶，其所含的成分不会差太多，名牌衣服与杂牌衣服的蔽体与保暖功能也不会差太多，但是我们有不同的看法。

If I say, to get the most out of life you’ve got to drink good tea, listen to good music and wear good clothes, what do you think? Is this your cup of tea? To some, a little difference in the tea leaves will not make or break a cup, and clothes being branded or not does not affect its fundamental function of providing protection and warmth. We look at this differently, though.

我们曾经谈过「泡茶师①箴言」，提到「泡好茶」②的重要，相信有人会质疑「泡好茶」作如何解释，是「泡好」茶？还是泡「好茶」？我们认为两个说法都没有错，当然以「泡茶师箴言」的角度看，应该是前者的意思：「泡好」茶是茶人体能的训练，「泡好」茶是茶道追求的途径，「泡好」茶是茶境感悟的本体。但若单独来看，泡「好茶」也有其道理。

In the last chapter, the Tea Brewer’s① Motto, we brought up the idea of brewing a good pot②. You may wonder what that exactly means. Would it mean brewing tea with masterful (good)technique, or brewing tea of premium (good) quality? We think both apply; and yet, in the context of the Tea Brewer’s Motto, it may be more of the former – brewing a good pot is the physical training of a Tea Brewer, the pursuit of the Way of Tea, and the essence to experiencing the World of Tea. However, when taking it out form this particular context, the understanding of it as‘brewing tea of premium quality’ is also relevant.

所谓「好茶」，一定是色香味俱佳，甚至有其独特的风格，这样的茶汤③，喝来一定让人神清气爽，这精神的愉悦就有益身体健康，比起普普通通的茶、喝来没有什么特殊喜悦的茶要「补」得多，再说得科技一点，所谓的好茶一定是含有品质较佳的成分、一定是含有较为人喜欢的成分，而且这些成分的组合是令人高兴的、含量是丰富的。这样美好的成分喝到肚子里一定比喝那些品质不佳的茶有益得多。这种现象不只发生在茶，即使穿衣服也如此，穿件质料好、设计优美、制作精良的衣服，一定比穿质料不好、样式不美、制作粗劣的衣服要有益健康，也是包含精神的愉快与肉体的舒适在内。

Good tea, in general, refers to tea that is appealing in terms of colour, aroma and taste. Its tea liquor③has a certain character that makes it a delight to drink. Tea drinker will be delighted by the pleasant feeling of satisfaction when they put their cups down.This is translated into health-enhancing benefits, an edge over mediocre tea that promises very little other than being a thirst-quencher. On the scientific ground, the so-called good tea is rich in compounds which are simply better and more appreciated.The combination of these compounds makes it a delight and adds to its rich flavor and content. As such, the impact is so much more enjoyable both physically and psychologically. This is similar to clothes – a fabulously-designed and well-tailored dress made of premium materials will work wonders on our physical well-being because of the feel-good elements it brings, as compared to a poorly-made dress of sub-standard fabric and sloppy tailoring.

以上这个说法可能遭受的反对有两方面：一是「好」的定义何在？一是会不会造成奢糜的风气？茶叶的好、衣服的好，我们要尊重专家，消费者的好恶、个人的偏见应设法排除。真正的「好」，价格一定较高，这会与个人的收入与认知程度取得协调，只要不造成好高骛远的风气，自然不会造成奢糜。

The above proposition is a possible subject of ridicule on two grounds. First, what is the definition of ‘good’? Second,will this lead to extravagance? To begin with, we must listen to experts as to how good the tea leaves or clothes are – this requires us to put aside our personal preference and prejudices.For things that are ‘good’, they are usually higher-priced, and this calls for a balance between one’s own income and level of awareness. It will not lead to extravagance as long as we do not go beyond our means.