身心修复的梦幻之地

李立欣

五大连池位于黑龙江省五大连池市，被称作“一本打开的火山教科书”，经联合国教科文组织批准为首批世界地质公园。虽然五大连池的面积只有1 060 平方公里，却有着众多纵横交错的河流，其星罗棋布的泉眼有300 多个，其中包括世界三大冷矿泉之一的南、北饮泉。

Wudalianchi （literally meaning theve joint ponds） is located in WudalianchiCity， Heilongjiang Province in northeasternChina. Known as “an open textbookof volcanos”， it is enlisted in the firstbatch of Global Geoparks by UNESCO.Covering a moderate area of about 1，060square kilometers， the Ponds boast manyinterlacing rivers and over 300 scatteredsprings， including the South and NorthDrinking Spring Cluster， one of the world’sthree most renowned cold mineral springs.

“五大连池”这个名字，是满语“乌德林池”的音译。据史料记载，乌云和尔冬吉山的地下喷出火和石时，将乌德林河（后称“白河”）截断为五座湖泊，“五大连池”因此得名。以火山口为中心，生命由地衣、苔藓、蕨类到草甸、树林的衍生过程清晰可见。每一个过程都需数十年或数百年甚至上千年的修复和演进。当人们在感慨大自然浴火重生后不畏艰辛地自我修复时，不知不觉间也对生命产生了敬畏之心。

The name “Wudalianchi” is believed tobe a transliteration of the Manchu phrase“Wuderlinchi” （literary medning the UdelinPond）. According to historical records，the eruption of fire and stones from theunderground of Mount Wuyunherdongjicut the Udelin River （later known as theBaihe River） into ve smaller ponds， hencethe name “Wudalianchi”. Encircling thevolcanic crater at the Ponds are distinctlayers of life， from lichens at the innermostlayer to moss， ferns， meadows， andeventually ourishing forests. Each journeyof restoration and re-formation spansdecades， centuries， and even millennia.One cannot help but feel a profoundreverence for life as one contemplatesnature’s remarkable tenacity and vibrantvigor.

這里流传着黑龙舍身守护生灵的故事。很多年前，有一条名叫“秃尾巴老李”的黑龙，他在与为害乡邻的小白龙大战时，为了制止地火吞噬四周的生灵，竟用自己的身躯堵住了不断喷涌的火口。后来，有地质学家发现，这里的火山熔岩状似龙。最著名的火山黑龙山，传说曾经是老李休息的地方。这里的黑龙庙供奉的神像是“黑龙王”，即秃尾巴老李。千百年来，人们一直感念黑龙对生灵的无私守护。

According to legend， a blackdragon， known as “Bald-Tail Li”，made a selfless sacrifice to protectthe local inhabitants. Many yearsago， Bald-Tail Li had a fierce battleagainst an evil white dragon. Tosafeguard the communities from theengulng ames of an undergroundfire， the black dragon valiantlyblocked the erupting vent with itsown body. As time passed， geologistscame and discovered volcanic lavaformations that resembled the shapeof a dragon in the area. Today， themost famous volcano in the area，Mount Black Dragon， is believedto have been the resting place ofBald-Tail Li， and enshrined in thehall of the Black Dragon Templeis a statue revered as the “BlackDragon King”. ‑roughout the ages，people have been grateful for thesacred creature’s heroic efforts insafeguarding the local communities.

五大连池南、北饮泉的冷泉水，浅尝时，口感有点儿类似苏打水；畅饮时，顿觉周身舒爽。这里的矿泉水含有多种有益于人体健康的微量元素，曾经被称作“带不走的圣水”，现在完全可以瓶装后被带到世界各地。不过，那些曾经在“神泉”边直接畅饮过的人，总会感觉装瓶后的水少了那份恰到好处的爽冽口感。

The cold spring water from the South and NorthDrinking Springs oers a taste somewhat similar to sodawater at first sip and provides a revitalizing sensationthroughout the body when savored plentifully. Enrichedwith health-benefiting microelements， the spring waterwas once known as the “holy water” that could not betaken away. Today， tourists from around the world canbottle and take the spring water with them. Nevertheless，those fortunate enough to have drunk directly from the“sacred springs” know that the bottled water lacks theperfectly crisp and refreshing taste found in the naturalsource.

北饮泉俗称“药泉”。人们每年会举办庆祝活动，感念“神鹿示水”带来的福泽。传说有一位达斡尔族猎人，他在打猎时发现了一只受伤的小鹿，于是跟着小鹿来到了水池旁。结果，他看见小鹿在一个池子里喝了水，又在另一个池子里泡了一会儿，竟奇迹般地痊愈了。人们奔走相告，周边的穷苦百姓从此开始用神水来守护健康。

The North Drinking Spring is also commonlyknown as the “Medicinal Spring”. Each year， peoplehost celebrating events to express their gratitude forthe blessings bestowed by divinity. Legend has it that aDaur hunter once traced a wounded deer to the ponds.To his astonishment， the deer miraculously healed afterdrinking from one pond and bathing in another. ‑e wordof this wonder spreads， and the impoverished localsbegan using the divine water to preserve their health.

每年农历五月初五，人们都会来到五大连池，庆祝发现了神水。历史上，鄂伦春族、鄂温克族、蒙古族等称其为“神水日”，满族、汉族等称其为“药泉会”，现在这个节日正式定名为“圣水节”。圣水节每年的端午节开幕，历时三天。生活在这里的20 多个民族的人们，以及八方来客，在端午节的午夜时分，都会争先恐后地去饮一杯泉水，祈求一年的康健。

People gather at the Wudalianchi to celebrate thediscovery of the sacred water every year on the traditionaldate of the Dragon Boat Festival， which falls on the hday of the h month of the lunar calendar. Historically，this day was referred to as the “Divine Water Day” bythe Oroqen， Ewenki， and Mongolian people and the“Medicinal Spring Gathering Day” by Manchu and Hanethnicities. Today， the rituals， officially celebrated as the“Holy Water Festival”， begin at the Dragon Boat Festivaland last three days. When the day comes， local peoplefrom more than 20 ethnic groups， as well as tourists fromacross the world， eagerly drink a glass of spring water atmidnight， praying for a year of good health.

五大連池拥有著名的“泉浴场”和“泥浴场”。20 多年前，这里大多是户外天然浴场，不限时间开放。当天气转暖时，人们便络绎不绝地来到这里享受泉浴和泥浴。在冷泉中浸浴，喝上几杯矿泉水，再配合泥浴，舒缓身体的疲劳和不适，心情也随之愉悦起来。

One can also nd the renowned “Spring Bath Area”and “Mud Bath Area” here. Over two decades ago，this place consisted mostly of natural outdoor bathingspots， accessible at all times. Today， in the warmermonths， people ock here for an enjoyable experienceof spring and mud baths. Aer all， what compares toa refreshing cold spring bath， accompanied by a fewglasses of mineral spring water， and followed by arelaxing mud bath， when it comes to alleviating fatigueand lightening the mood？

关于洗矿泉浴，还有个“三泡三晒”的俗规。由于洗浴泉的水温常年保持在10℃左右，初次尝试，一定要注意时间不宜过长。在泉水中浸泡到全身放松后，就可以出水上岸，躺在被阳光晒得温暖如炕的熔岩台地上，尽情享受日光浴。身体变暖出汗后，去阴凉处休息一下，及时补充矿泉水，待身体恢复到常态，方可再次进入矿泉浸泡。如此反复地浸泡与日光浴交替进行，身体的自我修复能力就被激活了。

The locals firmly believe in the health benefits of“alternating spring baths and sunbaths， preferably forthree rounds”. The spring water temperature remainsaround 10°C （50°F） all year， so keeping the first bathshort is advisable. Once the whole body relaxes， onecan come out of the water and lie on the rock platform，warmed by the sun as if on a cozy kang （a Chinesestylebed in the northeastern region）， to fully enjoysunbathing. As the body warms up and starts to sweat，taking a break in the shade and drinking mineralwater is recommended. And remember to wait untilthe body returns to its normal temperature beforetaking another spring bath. ‑is alternating approachinvigorates the body and enhances its self-repairingfunctions.

泥浆浴也非常值得尝试。像孩童一样，在泥里打个滚，让全身沾满泥浆，待洗去泥浆，就能体会到泥浆浴带来的好处。難怪有人说：“五大连池的泥巴也是宝。”

te mud bath is also a must-try. Visitors can rollaround in the mud like a carefree child， and whenwashing off the mud from head to toe， they will beamazed by the pleasure and health benets brought bythe mud bath. No wonder people say that “even mud inthe Wudalianchi is a treasure”.