多彩贵州，鲜活非遗

王梓艺

在苗族風情浓郁的黔东南，若你有幸参加一场盛会，就将收获一次极致的民族文化体验：熠熠生辉的银饰、艳丽夺目的盛装、古朴潇洒的芦笙舞、鳞次栉比的吊脚楼、雕梁画栋的风雨楼、热情难当的拦门酒、精巧秀致的苗族剪纸……在每一个生活场景，在每一个平凡的日常，非物质文化遗产的力量都是如此鲜活。

雷山苗银——苗疆深处的银匠树

“叮——叮——叮——”门坊里不时传来细细敲打金属的声音，这是杨光宾正窜着小锤子在敲打银片。杨光宾是雷山县控拜村有名的银匠，他自幼跟随父亲学习银饰锻制，2007年当选为第一批国家级非物质文化遗产传承人。目前，杨光宾正为国家美术馆制作12套苗族各支系银饰盛装。

早年从父亲那里接过这门手艺时，杨光宾远没想过这门村里家家部会的技艺有一天会成为国家非物质文化遗产。

控拜村的银饰制作技艺可追溯到400多年前。也许是大山太过寂寞，举手投足间便能发出清脆乐音的银饰便和悠扬的芦笙、苗族古歌一起流传了下来。

苗族银饰工艺繁复，匠人纯手工打造的苗族银饰有独到的纹路和韧性，机械很难复制。微薄的收入难以供养精细的手艺。渐渐地，村里大多数人放弃古老的谋生方式，选择去往发达的沿海城市打工。

2006年，雷山苗银入选第一批国家级非物质文化遗产。成为非遗传承人的杨光宾不拘一格，广纳贤才，将手艺教给了更多的年轻人。

得益于贵州旅游产业的发展，“以美丽回答一切”的西江千户苗寨成为热门旅游地，控拜村这个藏身于大山深处的银匠村也得以出现在游客们的游记和攻略中。不少苗银匠人纷纷返乡创业，如今的控拜村几乎一户一个作坊，每家都有一名银匠。

随着银饰锻制技艺的传承规模越来越大，控拜村又恢复了往日的生气，年轻人正重新抬起这门手艺，寻一份传承初心。

台江苗绣——穿在身上的无字史书

若说苗族银饰是匠人精心锻制的秀致诗篇，苗绣则是穿在身上的无字史书。

苗人崇尚自然，苗绣中最常见的蝴蝶纹、鸟纹、鱼纹、花草纹、龙纹等，都寄托着他们原始而又真挚、积极的生命观。苗寨姑娘几乎人人会刺绣。没有扁稿，无需画笔，仅凭从祖母、母亲那儿传承来的针法技艺，辅以民族信仰、迁移历史和对自然万物最直觉的抽象感知，就能绣出一幅幅绝美的苗绣。

台江县的潘玉珍是当地有名的刺绣能手，也是一位年近八旬的阿红。2018年12月，在英国伦敦的圣詹姆斯富，潘玉珍穿着自己制作的苗族传统服饰走上T台。当传承千年的苗族美学闪耀秀场时，所有人部被震撼了。

多年来，潘玉珍带着苗绣走出国门，足迹遍布十多个国家。每次归来，她都会带回数十万甚至上百万美元的订单。

潘玉珍的二女儿张艳梅也是当地有名的绣娘，她和妹妹一起创立了台江县仰黎苗族织绣工艺坊。通过发展民族工艺品，她们不仅实现了自己儿时的梦想，还带动了一批贫困群体致富增收。如今，她们的刺绣产品远销美国、日本、法国等国家。

来自深山的苗绣被发掘出更多“时尚因子”，纹样被嵌入潮流服饰、文创周边、景区伴手礼中，小众工艺与大众的接触面交融，市场接受度不断提升，登上时尚舞台的绣娘和工坊作品越来越多，不少本土企业和以苗绣为特色的时尚品牌正在与国际接轨。

丹寨蜡染——大山里的“东方第一染”

同样受到国际舞台青睐的，还有丹寨的苗族蜡染。2020年2月，丹寨县宁航工坊团队设计制作的36套蜡染服饰首次以专场形式亮相伦敦国际时装周，引发全场惊叹。

苗族蜡染是用蜡刀蘸熔蜡绘花于布，再以蓝靛浸染。染色后水煮洗蜡，布面就呈现蓝底白花或白底蓝花的各种图案。在浸染过程中，作为防染剂的蜡会出现自然龟裂，呈现出特殊的“冰纹”。这一工艺史可追溯到唐代，被称为“东方第一染”。相较于苗绣热情大胆的用色，蓝白搭配的蜡染更显温润。

丹寨苗族蜡染于2006年入选第一批国家级非物质文化遗产名录。丹寨的苗族女性自幼便学习这一技艺，从栽培蓝草、纺纱织布，到绘制纹样、浸染剪裁，她们全部轻车熟路，并将这种技艺代代传递。对丹寨的苗女来说，蜡染是她们生活的一部分，也是她们观察世界、尝试自我表达的最佳途径。

宁曼丽来自安徽。在黔东南首府凯里，她第一次见到了丹寨蜡染。她深知这个来自大山深处的瑰宝所蕴含的商业价值，于是她四处走访，说动了当地的几名染娘加入，在丹寨县城成立了宁航蜡染。

2016年5月，中国民族博物馆的专家到黔东南采风，震撼于染娘制作的《百苗图》，当即决定收藏这幅作品，并为她们做一次特展。经过这次转机，宁航蜡染的市场逐渐拓宽，甚至还有高校邀请染娘们前去授课。

在宁航蜡染的带动下，目前丹寨县颇具规模的蜡染工坊企业已发展到20余家，蜡染年产值超过2 000万元，不仅带动700余名染娘增收，而且成为丹寨县有影响力和带动成效的特色产业。

不只是蜡染，丹寨作为非物质文化遗产富集地，汇集了七个国家级非物质文化遗产。目前，在丹寨万达小镇的200余家铺面中，非遗文化商户占比达75%，“非遗+旅游”成为丹寨县推动全域旅游的重要思路。游客们纷纷走进景区，体验非遗项目，感受“有声有色”的民族风情。万达小镇大放异彩，惊艳世界，成为名副其实的阿红小镇，也成为贵州非遗活态传承的重要据点。

In the vibrant land of southeasternGuizhou Province， where theMiao ethnic group flourishes， if youare fortunate enough to participatein a gathering， you will have an extra-ordinary experience of its ethnic culture.Glistening silver jewelry， colorfuland glamorous costumes， the unpretentious，traditional Lusheng dance，clusters of diaojiaolou （wooden housessupported by 1—2 meters high pillars），the Fengyu Mansions （literally meaning“Mansions of Wind and Rain”） withintricately carved and painted beams，the heart-warming welcoming ritualswith aromatic wine at the entrance， andthe delicate Miao paper-cutting works：these daily items and rituals are the besttestament to the exuberant vigor of theintangible cultural heritages of the Miaoethnic group in Guizhou.

Leishan Miao Silver Jewelry： Treasure in the Heart of Miao area

“Clink， clink， clink！” The sound of gentle strikeson silver resonates in the workshop. Inside thedoor is Yang Guangbin， the renowned silversmithfrom Kongbai Village， Leishan County， who ishammering the silver pieces. Today， he standsamong a select few as an officially recognizednational-level inheritor of the intangible culturalheritage. Currently， he is working to create twelvetraditional costumes with silver jewelry， representingdi erent Miao ethnic branches， for the NationalArt Museum of China.

When Yang took over this cra smanship fromhis father at a young age， he could have never imaginedthat this humble household art would oneday be recognized as part of the national intangiblecultural heritage.

The art of cra ing silver jewelry in Kongbai Villagehas a rich history spanning over four centuries.Perhaps it is due to the serene and secluded natureof the mountainous region that these silver adornments，which emit a delicate tinkling sound withevery movement， have been passed down alongsidethe melodious Lusheng （a traditional Chinese musicalinstrument） and ancient Miao folk songs.

This technique is intricate. The meticulouslyhand-made silver jewelry boasts unique patternsand exceptional durability that machines cannotreplicate. However， the meager income generatedfrom this artistry makes it hard to sustain. As aresult， over time， most village residents left theirhometown for developed coastal regions， trying tomake ends meet.

In 2006， Leishan Miao silver jewelry waso cially recognized as one of the rst nationallevelintangible cultural heritages. YangGuangbin， as an open-minded inheritor of thistreasured tradition， spared no e ort to recruitand train young apprentices and impart hisvaluable techniques to the next generation.

Due to the ourishing tourism industry inGuizhou， the enchanting Xijiang Qianhu MiaoVillage has emerged as a popular tourist destination.Consequently， Kongbai Village， nestledin the nearby mountains， has also found itsplace in travel journals and guides. This developmenthas prompted many Miao silversmithsto return to their hometown and establish theirown businesses. Nowadays， it is a commonsight to nd a silver artisan and a workshop in almost every household in Kongbai Village.

As the tradition continues to thrive， KongbaiVillage has resumed its vibrancy. The younggeneration is embracing this craftsmanshiponce again and passing down their passion forthis cultural heritage.

Taijiang Miao Embroidery： Wordless Book Telling A Timeless Tale

While the Miao silver jewelry， crafted by skilledartisans， has a poetic beauty， the Miao embroidery tellsa timeless tale.

The Miao people worship nature. The prevalentpatterns in Miao embroidery， including butterflies，birds， fish， flowers and plants， and dragons， reflecttheir primitive yet genuine， positive outlook on life.Almost all Miao women know how to embroider. They don’t need pencils and sketches. Drawing inspirationsfrom the needlework techniques passed down by theirgrandmothers and mothers， as well as their ethnicpride， historical knowledge， and intuitive perceptionsof nature， they bring to life breathtaking pieces of Miaoembroidery.

Pan Yuzhen， from Taijiang County， is a wellknownembroidery artisan and an internet celebrityin her late seventies. In December 2018， she madea stunning appearance on the runway at St. James’sPalace in London， showcasing her meticulously cra edtraditional Miao attire. The timeless charm of the Miaoethnic group captivated everyone at the scene.

Over the years， Pan has brought Miao embroideryto over ten countries. And each time， she returns withorders worth hundreds of thousands and even millionsof US dollars.

Zhang Yanmei， Pan’s seconddaughter， is also a well-knownlocal embroiderer. Together withher younger sister， she founded theTaijiang Yangli Miao EmbroideryWorkshop. Through innovationand the production of ethnic handicrafts，they have not only fulfilledtheir childhood dreams but havealso contributed to increasing theincome of impoverished villagers.Today， their embroidery productsare sold to countries like the US，Japan， and France.

The Miao embroidery from the remotemountains is now embraced worldwide as afashionable item， with its patterns commonlyfound in trendy clothing designs， cultural andcreative products， and tourist souvenirs. This once little-known craftsmanship has gainedpopularity among the general public， leadingto increased market demand. As a result，more embroiderers and workshops are showcasingtheir work on larger， modern stages，and numerous local enterprises and Miaoembroidery brands are proudly reaching outto wider， international audiences.

Danzhai Batik Dyeing： The “Number One Dyeing of the East”

Also gaining international attention is the Miaobatik dyeing from Danzhai County. In February 2020，a collection of 36 sets of wax-dyed costumes designedand produced by Ninghang Batik from DanzhaiCounty made a remarkable debut at the LondonFashion Week in a dedicated show， astonishing theaudience.

Miao batik dyeing is created by using a wax knifeto apply the melted wax onto the fabrics， dyeing it withindigo， and boiling the fabric in hot water a erward toremove the wax. As a result， blue and white cloths withvarious patterns are produced. The wax， which actsas a resist agent， naturally cracks during the process，resulting in unique “ice patterns” on the fabrics. This cra smanship can be traced back to the Tang Dynasty（618—690） and is known as the “Number One Dyeingof the East”. Di erent from the bold， vibrant colors ofMiao embroidery， the blue and white owery patternsappear to be more gentle and reserved.

Danzhai Miao batik dyeing was included in the rst batch of national-level intangible cultural heritagesin 2006. Miao women in Danzhai begin learning thistechnique from childhood and become pro cient in allaspects， such as cultivating the indigo plants， spinningthe yarn， designing the patterns， as well as dyeing andtailoring the fabrics. They pass down this craftsmanshipfrom one generation to another. For Miao women，batik dyeing is not only a part of their daily lives butalso the best way to observe the world and expressthemselves.

Ning Manli， originally from Anhui Province， firstlearned about Danzhai batik dyeing in Kaili City， locatedin southeastern Guizhou Province. Fully aware of thecommercial value of this treasure from the deep mountains，she traveled around and persuaded several localfemale dyers to join her in establishing Ninghang Batik.

In May 2016， professionals from the ChineseNational Museum of Ethnology visited southeasternGuizhou for eld research and were astounded by BaiMiao Tu. They immediately decided to include thisartwork in the museum’s collection and organize adedicated exhibition for the dyers. After this turningpoint， Ninghang Batik established a strong footing inthe market， and several universities invited the dyersto deliver lectures as part of their art programs.

Ninghang Batik has brought great momentum toDanzhai County. Currently， there are over 20 sizablebatik dyeing companies， with an annual output exceeding20 million RMB. Batik dyeing has not onlyincreased the income of over 700 female dyers buthas also become a thriving industry with unique local characteristics， exerting a positive impact on local development.

And it is more than batik dyeing. Danzhai is renownedfor being home to another six in the nationallevelintangible cultural heritage. Today， more than 75%of the over 200 shops in Wanda Town of Danzhou specializein businesses related to intangible cultural heritage.The “intangible cultural heritage + tourism” modelhas emerged as a vital driver in promoting the tourismindustry in Danzhai. Tourists now ock to the regionlooking for an immersive experience of the vibrant andcolorful ethnic lifestyle， as well as the rich intangiblecultural heritage. Consequently， Wanda Town has becomea captivating destination， attracting tourists fromaround the world while preserving and passing on thevibrant cultural traditions of Guizhou.