The World’s Most Amazing Pedicure全世界最棒的足部护理

凯特·斯普林格　范婕/译

As I sit down for a Shanghai-style pedicure at the Mandarin Oriental Hong Kong， I quickly realize its not going to be the usual buff and polish. Pedicurist Benjamin Cheung whips out a black satchel， full of blades in various shapes and sizes. And he plans to use them on my feet. Cheung， who emigrated from Shanghai with his family in the 1990s， explains the centuries-old process： Hell use his scalpels to shave off dead skin， clean up my cuticles and whittle down any calluses.

我来到香港文华东方酒店，坐下来准备接受一次沪式足部护理，很快意识到这次不会是像往常那样的清洁养护。足部护理师本杰明·张突然拿出一个黑色皮包，里面装着形状各样、大小不一的刀具，而这些他都将用在我脚上。20世纪90年代，张与家人从上海移居香港。他向我说明这项传承数百年的技艺：他会用他的各式刮刀刮去我脚上的死皮，清除角质，修掉老茧。

“In the old days， only wealthy people or businessmen got to enjoy Shanghai-style pedicures. Most of the people could not afford these luxurious treatments，” Cheung tells CNN Travel. “When Shanghai-style businessmen moved to Hong Kong in the 1900s， there was a demand for this service and thats how Shanghai-style pedicures were brought to this city. Now they are very common there and can be found in many public bathing facilities， spas and barbershops.

“過去只有富人或商人才能享受沪式足部护理，大多数人享受不起这项奢侈服务。”张接受美国有线电视新闻网旅游频道采访时说，“1900年代，有上海商人迁居香港，他们需要沪式足部护理，这项服务也由此引入香港。如今，沪式足部护理在香港已经非常普遍，很多公共洗浴场所、水疗中心和理发店都有。”

A smooth shave

体验修脚服务

To begin the 50-minute treatment， Cheung runs a warm foot bath to soften the dry skin. He then intently examines my feet， feeling each patch with his finger to gauge the roughness， before pulling out the appropriate tool.

在开始时长50分钟的护理前，张先用热水给我泡了泡脚，软化干燥的皮肤，接着他非常仔细地对我的脚进行检查，用手指触摸每一个地方，确定粗糙程度，然后拿出合适的工具。

Cheung smooths the balls of my feet， chisels through some calluses and delicately tidies my toenails. I hardly felt anything while he was working， perhaps a tickle in places but certainly no pain. By the end， hes used at least six blades and has carved what feels like two pounds off my heels.

张把我脚上疙疙瘩瘩的地方磨平，挫掉一些茧子，细致地修剪了趾甲。在他操作的整个过程中，我几乎感觉不到什么，可能时而有一点痒，但完全不痛。到最后结束时，他至少用上了六把刀，仿佛从我脚上削掉了两磅重的东西。

Walking out of the salon， my soles are slippery smooth―its almost like gliding on two sticks of butter.

走出沙龙的时候，我脚底滑溜溜的，好像是踩在两条黄油上滑行一样。

The sifu from Shanghai

来自上海的足部护理师

But why a Shanghai-style pedicure in Hong Kong？

但香港怎么会有沪式足部护理呢？

“Its worth keeping in mind that Shanghai and Hong Kong have had historic connections for almost two centuries，” John Carroll， a professor of history at the University of Hong Kong and the author of A Concise History of Hong Kong， tells CNN Travel. “Thousands of people from Shanghai emigrated to Hong Kong over the years.” Nicknamed “Emigrant Entrepreneurs，” these prople brought businesses， expertise and sartorial style that still permeates Hong Kong culture today―evidenced by the remaining Shanghai tailors， restaurants， barbers and， yes， pedicurists peppered about the city.

“应该要记住的是，近两个世纪以来，上海和香港在历史上有着非常重要的联系。”高马可是香港大学的一位历史学教授，也是《香港简史》的作者，他接受美国有线电视新闻网旅游频道采访时说，“那些年，有成千上万的上海人移居香港。”这些上海人被叫做“移民企业家”，他们办企业，还带来了专业技术和着装风尚，这些如今仍影响着香港文化——在香港，随处可见沪式裁缝、餐厅、理发师，当然了，还有沪式足部护理师。

“When I was 11， my family moved to Hong Kong to explore opportunities， like many other families from the mainland， in the ‘80s and ‘90s，” Cheung says. “At the time， Hong Kong was well developed and there was a high demand for labor in different industries.”

张说起以前的事：“20世纪八九十年代，和中国内地很多家庭一样，我们家也来到香港寻求发展机会，那时我11岁。当时的香港繁荣发达，各个领域的劳动力需求都很大。”

As Cheung adjusted to the culture， he realized the value of having a niche professional skill that others couldnt easily emulate. “Shanghai-style pedicures require special and traditional skills， which are passed down from generation to generation，” says Cheung. “I was inspired by my uncle， who was a pedicurist from Shanghai， and decided to follow his path.” At 18 years old， Cheung moved back to Shanghai where he studied the techniques for two years.

张慢慢适应着香港文化环境，他意识到，必须要掌握一技之长，而且这项技能得是别人轻易效仿不了的。“沪式足部护理所需的专业技能和传统技艺，是一代又一代传下来的。”张说道，“我叔叔是位足部护理师，受到他的激励，我也决定干这行。”于是18岁时张回到上海，在那儿学了两年的技术。

The young man returned to Hong Kong as a budding Shanghai sifu （master） and took up the practice first at a private resort. Cheung later joined the Mandarin Oriental in 2007， where he has worked for the past decade.

年輕的张学成后又返回香港，成为一位新晋的沪式足部护理师。起初他在一个私人度假村做足部护理师，后来在2007年进了文华东方酒店，过去10年一直在那儿上班。

An urban trend

城市掀新潮

The Shanghai-style pedicure was named after the Chinese city， but thats most likely not where it originated.

虽然沪式足部护理是以中国上海（简称“沪”）命名，但它很可能并不起源于这座城市。

Samuel So， another sifu who works at the Mandarin Oriental and apprenticed under Shanghai masters， says that the pedicure was first practiced in rural areas and smaller cities， later making its way to Shanghai as the country urbanized. “It was named the ‘Shanghai-style pedicure because Shanghai was the place where everyone first learned about the treatment，” So tells CNN Travel. “In the old days， many people wanted to move to Shanghai for a better job and a better life. Some people brought the pedicure skills with them to Shanghai. Like Hong Kong a few decades ago， Shanghai was a place with opportunities. The economy there was blooming， which led to high demands in grooming.”

塞缪尔·苏是文华东方酒店的另一位足部护理师，曾经也在上海师傅手下学徒。他说，起初是在一些乡村地区和小城市开始有足部护理，后来随着中国的城市化发展，足部护理才在上海兴盛起来。“叫‘沪式足部护理，是因为上海是人们最早知道这项服务的地方。”苏接受美国有线电视新闻网旅游频道采访时说，“那时候有很多人想去上海谋求更好的工作、过上更好的生活，一些掌握足部护理技术的人也去了。像几十年前的香港一样，当时的上海也是个充满机遇的地方，经济欣欣向荣，清洁洗护市场需求旺盛。”

In Hong Kong， the pedicures are thought to have first surfaced in the late 1940s with the opening of Shanghai Tong Hing Yuk Tak Bathhouse. Emulating the traditional Shanghai bathhouse culture， the Mong Kok address was a hotspot for socializing， business， entertainment and relaxation.

20世纪40年代末，随着上海同记浴德池浴室的开业，足部护理服务始现香港。这家澡堂位于香港旺角，效仿上海传统的澡堂文化，人们社交、谈生意、娱樂消遣、休息放松都爱去那儿。

Health before beauty

健康第一，美丽第二

Over the years， Shanghai-style pedicures have been adopted by day spas and foot reflexology centers in Hong Kong. Theyre a category all their own―considered more of a healthy practice than an aesthetic fix. More importantly， these foot treatments are considered to promote hygiene by shaving away dirt， ingrown toenails， corns， calluses and warts.

这些年来，香港的一些日间水疗中心和足疗中心也吸纳了沪式足部护理。足部护理被分为一项单独的服务，因为人们觉得这种护理更多是为了强身健体，而非显美遮丑。更重要的是，大家认为足部护理去除掉脚上的污垢、长进肉里的趾甲、鸡眼、老茧和疣，促进了个人卫生。

“In China， people do pedicures for practical reasons. They do of course improve the appearance of feet， but they also help your health，” says Cheung. “Our feet support the weight of our whole body. If we suffer from foot problems， that could affect our walking and sitting postures， which may cause back and other health problems.”

“中国人做足部护理的原因是很实际的，足部护理当然能让双足变好看，但还利于身体健康。”张解释道，“双足支撑着全身的重量，如果它们有问题，那我们行走和坐立的姿势可能会受影响，继而又可能会引发背部和其他身体疾病。”

Pedicures around town

足部护理遍布香港

Whether youre treating yourself to a $100 pedicure at the Mandarin Oriental or sitting down for a more budget-friendly experience， travelers can find the traditional Chinese practice at various spas and foot massage halls throughout Hong Kong.

无论是文华东方酒店每次收费100美元的足部护理，还是其他地方更经济实惠的护理体验，来香港旅游的人在这座城市很多水疗中心和足部按摩厅都能享受到这项中国传统服务。

Among Hong Kongs reputable addresses， travelers can experience the traditional treatment at Ten Feet Tall―a stylish address with spacious rooms， fresh juices and tropical decor. Another option is Happy Foot―a well-known name around town with two locations， one in Central and another in Wan Chai. Both branches provide the service along with full-body massages， reflexology foot rubs and more. Gaos Foot Massage， tucked away in a commercial building in Central， also provides a clean environment and traditional Chinese decor.

香港有不少知名好去处，时尚的Ten Feet Tall休闲中心便是其中之一，那儿房间宽敞，提供鲜美果汁，店面装修是热带风格，游客们可以体验到传统的足部护理。另一个选择是“知足乐”足疗中心，这家足疗中心在香港人尽皆知，它有两个分店，一个在中环，一个在湾仔，两个店都提供足部护理服务，同时也有全身按摩、足疗按摩等。另外还有一家叫“古法足道”的按摩店，藏在中环一幢商业大楼中，店里很干净，是传统中式装修风格。

More Shanghai grooming

更多沪式洗护场所

The influence of Shanghai culture isnt limited to pedicures. Across the city， you can still find remnants of traditional grooming in the form of barber shops and tailors. “Shanghai people enjoyed nightlife， entertainment and a playful lifestyle，” Corey Mak， a researcher who authored “The Heritage of Hair-Cutting，” tells CNN Travel. “All these places were run by people from Shanghai， with hopes of reproducing a cosmopolitan Shanghai atmosphere.”

上海文化的影响并不仅限于足部护理，在香港各处的理发店和裁缝店里仍能看到传统洗护业的痕迹。“上海人很在意夜生活，喜欢娱乐活动，平日里很爱玩。”麦国健接受美国有线电视新闻网旅游频道采访时说。他是位研究员，著有《理发的遗产》一书。“以前那些店的经营者都是上海来的内地人，他们希望在香港再现一种上海大都会氛围。”

Though many of the earlier venues have closed down over the years， travelers can still find a bit of Shanghai in Hong Kong―particularly in the North Point district， which became known as a “Little Shanghai.” “Shanghai-style barbers， in particular， had a reputation for providing modern and trendy services， not otherwise available locally，” explains Mak. “Having ‘Shanghai Style on the signboard for a barbershop was a signal to potential customers that theyll receive a high standard of service， a tidy environment and add-ons， such as cooling towels， shoe shining， cigarettes， scalp massages， and more.”

虽然近些年很多早先的洗护店都已经关掉了，游客们仍可以在香港找到一点上海气息，尤其是北角区，人们称那儿为“小上海”。“因为提供摩登时尚的服务项目，那时候沪式理发店很有名，那些服务在香港的其他理发店是没有的。”麦解释道，“如果哪家理发店的招牌上寫着‘沪式，想理发的人看了就会明白，店里服务高级、环境整洁，客人还会享受到一些附赠服务，如凉巾、擦鞋、香烟和头部按摩等等。”