浙江乡村的另一种可能

孙昌建

在高速杭州淳安出口附近看到淡竹二字，就会想起三十多年前的那个毛竹园。很多人对于淳安县千岛湖的认知是由一个个地名和乡名构成的，比如排岭、汾口、威坪、临岐、文昌、姜家等。据说早年的淳安有60多个乡，正如那个碧波万顷的水库是由无数滴水所汇成，而这一滴或那一滴又是自带记忆的。

当中巴车一进入富文地域，就能看见盘山公路上一个个跑步的背影，他们都是水上运动的选手，也许他们中就有参加本届杭州亚运会的，看他们浑身湿透、努力奔跑的样子，觉得就是这样的日复一日、年复一年，每一步、每一桨地越过山丘和水波，才有可能接近心中的梦想。看着他们的背影，特别想下车跟他们聊几句，因为他们也是这座山、这片水的一个组成部分。不过我还是控制住了某一种情绪，因为此时我看到了远处的野山樱，在悬崖边上，粉色的野山樱，不多，有那么一两丛、两三丛，开得孤独而傲然，这也是这个季节去山乡必会遇见的一景。

邂逅野山樱只是在富文的第一序章。本次去富文，主要还是想去看一眼那所网红学校，因为我一直对电影外景地颇有兴趣，也曾想写个“电影里的杭州”系列，以后如果真的写成了，富文应该是其中的一篇。热门电影《我和我的家乡》是由四个片段组成的，我仿而学之，亦以片断记之。

当司机说乡政府到了，我下了车，却还是没有看到乡政府，准确地说我没有看到富文乡政府的房子，后来看到牌子，才明白这是一座由供销社改造而来的乡政府办公楼，它被周边的民居包围着，既成不了地标，在地理优势上也无可说之处。要知道这是在杭州，在著名的千岛湖，竟然还有这样一座乡政府的办公楼，它恰好跟网红小学形成一种鲜明对比。会议室简陋之至，路过办公室时人也不敢走进去，因为一走进去，可能就会转不过身。

入夜后终于可以去看富文中心小学了，因为电影，也不仅仅因为电影。远远就看到了灯光，一种温暖的感觉紧紧地把人包围，就像有一双手臂搂住了我，也搂住了整个乡村的夜晚。

谈不上震撼，但触动还是颇为强烈的，可以称得上是“最美小学”。我记得我读小学一年级的时候，我们班的教室就是一间茅草屋，另一个平行班却已经是砖瓦房了，这么多年过去了，我对此还是有点耿耿于怀的。如果一个地方，一座城市，一个国家，最好的房子是学校，是图书馆，是运动场，那我想那表示社会有了一种倡导和榜样。

走廊上有小朋友在墙上画的涂鸦作品，其中有一幅画的是北京冬奥会，画了领奖台，这让人又一次想起山路上跑步的运动员。其实也很想问问小朋友，他们是怎么看他们的家乡、看他们的学校的。后来在离开这片灯光去民宿的路上，我看到了夜空中的星星，一眨一眨地亮晶晶。这是喝了富文土烧之后的反应？现在星星似乎成了美丽乡村的标配，但是光有星星，光有萤火虫，光有土烧，显然是不够的，而现在我们有了一所网红学校，不，网红只是标签，对于乡村教育和生态，人们可以千言万语各抒己见，但我相信身处其中所体会到的愉悦感是真切的，只要静下心来享受就好：不要用灯光去打扰野山樱的开放，不要用音乐去打扰溪水的流淌。

第二天早上醒来，才仔细打量了一番我所住的房子，这里的民宿有旧房改造的，也有重新建造的，而无论是哪一种，都体现了设计师的理念，即房子也是山水的一个部分。我尤其喜欢园子里的一株红梅，它在水边，水上浮着一些落英，这特别容易让人望梅止渴——此渴非彼渴，那是对美的渴。

还是不能忘记那最美学校，该校还有不少慕名前来就读的学生，有一位同事的小孩也在那所学校就读。

又注意到了一景，那是第二天在漠川村村委会门口，有一株并不算高大的桂花树，被围栏保护了起来，且立有一块小木牌，牌上写着这样的说明文字：“此地为漠川小学，上世纪70年代，本村小学老师唐三女带领学生从后山移植了一棵桂花树种植在此地。时光荏苒，当年的小学已不复存在，而桂花树依旧亭亭玉立，枝繁叶茂，见证着一代又一代漠川人的成长。”这段文字写得真好，朴实无华又饱含深情。而这棵桂花树的对面正是颇有气派的方氏宗祠，桂花树的侧面是村卫生室，边上有健康宣传栏。

今天富文的子弟无疑是有福气的，全中国、全世界都通过这所网红小学知道了富文，“知道”就是生产力，从这一点上说，富文的今生要好于前世。

望“文”生义是码字工的一种基本功。富而有文，文而有富，这是我望“文”生义后的两种愿景。淳安以前是欠发达县，尤其是在杭州地区，尤其是跟萧山和余杭相比;而现在淳安是国家重点生态功能区，一湖秀水，禀赋优越，网红或最美的声誉把你吸引过来，但能不能留住客人看星星喝土烧听漠川潺潺，这还得靠内功。

如今，民宿成了美丽乡村的标配，而如果从未来乡村的模式来看，虽然富文已经走在了路上，但仍然任重道远。民宿要讲故事，而富文的故事俯拾皆是。我住在一家叫美客爱途的民宿，早餐则安排在两三百米外的一家青麓餐厅，它的隔壁就是一家“青麓小姑土货直播间”，桌上一台电脑，两三只手机架，几根网线。“小姑”看上去很朴素，这几年她一边做直播，一边种菜养鸡，还兼做厨娘，她烧出来的土菜，口味明显要和淡一些。而她带土货的直播更是收入可观，而且经营模式颇有新意。如果问你，688元买一只土鸡你要不要？你可能会嫌贵，但如果这只土鸡给你一月生20个土鸡蛋，一年生240个土鸡蛋且包邮到家，一年之后这只土鸡归你，你是不是有点心动了？

同时这家民宿还有一间新安书屋，是县图书馆的乡村书屋之一，这里还举办艺术展，除了富文的非遗手艺麦秸扇之外，还有现代艺术展，参展的画家都是国美、央美毕业的研究生。

是啊，从雪坑源到淳雪居，从青坪源到青麓，這不只是名称的改变，更是一种对于山水的尊重、对于美好生活的分享。据我所知，早先几十年，从淳安出去的学子在杭州成为各界精英的比比皆是，而这几年回千岛湖创业的又多了起来，这一现象是不是也可以从富和文的框架中去解释呢？而我们来到富文，来到千岛湖，不正是想完成苏东坡们没有完成的诗篇吗？这所富文中心小学，也曾获得过一个荣誉叫“浙江省诗教先进单位”，这是比网红标签更为重要的。

在浙江，富文只有一個，却也不止一个，富文只是浙江无数个美丽乡村的缩影。从生态到教育再到民宿，来浙江，你会看到乡村的另一种可能。

My knowledge of the Thousand Island Lake in Chun’an county comprises of different names of places. It is said that in the early years， there were 60 odds townships there in Chun’an. Just like the crystal-clear reservoir right in front of me eyes is converged by countless drops of water， my memory about this place is also formed by unforgettable moments.

The moment the bus carried me inside the area of Fuwen， I was attracted by the runners covering the winding mountain roads， who must be water sports athletes. Watching them going full speed and all sweaty， I assumed that is how they are running towards their dreams step by step. Just then， I saw at distance some clusters of wild pink cherries by the cliff， a local seasonal view one will surely bump into during this time of year.

But that was only a prelude to my trip today， the purpose of which was to visit a school well-known as a film set. I always long for visiting film sets and have a plan of writing an article series of “Hangzhou in the film”， which， if can be ever realized， should include one about Fuwen.

I finally got a chance to see the primary school when the night fell. The lamp light caught my eyesight from afar， and I felt I was embraced tightly and warmly by a pair of arms. Seeing the primary school as it was， I would not say I was shocked but impressed really， for there was no such schools in Hangzhou. I remembered the classroom of my primary school was but a thatched hut， and realized， after so many passing years， I was still feeling sorry for my younger self. If the best local building is a school， a library， or a sport field， I guess that would set an example to the public.

At the hallway of the school I saw some doodles on the wall drew by the school children. One of them was about the Beijing Winter Olympics， the podium and stuff， and it reminded me of the runners I saw earlier. Leaving the school when I was on the way heading to my B&B for the night， I saw some twinkling stars high above. The next morning， I checked out carefully the building I was staying in， which demonstrated the designer’s philosophy that the house is also part of the natural landscape. I was in particular fond of a red plume in the garden， next to a small pool with some fallen petals floating atop.

However， if we need to better understand the Fuwen village， we may as well take a step back to look at the big picture. As is well-known to all， demolishing and merging village primary schools is a common practice these days. Therefore， among such a vast area — the administrative area of Fuwen is 151 square kilometers， there is only one local primary school. That set me wondering： is there a way to treat the local children better？

Underdeveloped as it was， Chun’an county is now a key ecological area with clear waters. But from the view of the future village， that is far from enough. For starters， B&B， a faithful companions of villages these days， are expected to tell good stories. Take the B&B I stayed for example. The breakfast was arranged for me at a restaurant two to three hundred meters away， next to a studio managed by a young lady. In the studio there is a table with a laptop and some phone holders on it. The lady livestreams to sell goods online for a living; meanwhile， she grows vegetables， raises chicken and does some cooking too. Yet it is online selling using especially smart strategies that has brought her the bulk of her income.

I also noticed the B&B owned a bookshop as well. This is one of the village bookshops administered by the county library， where art exhibits are held occasionally. I could sense in this place a kind of respect for the natural landscape and the intention of sharing a good life.