富春江畔第一村

王小奇 胡筱璐 章璐瑶 濮一康

西下严陵滩，东流第一关。

几年前，湖北人彭海杰和妻子到浙江富阳东梓关村旅游，被水墨画般的美景吸引，随后便租下一幢民房，并把自己的茶艺培训事业和家从湖北搬到了这里。

“始于颜值，终于设计。我来东梓关，是为了完成对富春山居生活状态的追求。”彭海杰希望在一个山清水秀的地方发展事业、享受生活。他的理想之地，最终选在了东梓关。守着一家名为“守一茶”的民宿，彭海杰继续着自己热爱的茶艺培训事业，同时也圆了妻子开一间民宿的梦想。

如今，随着富春江江鲜大会连续举办，“富春山居·味道山乡”各项活动深入开展，“网红村”东梓关村名声越来越响，游人如织，一幅现代版富春山居图画卷，正在富春江边这座千年古村落徐徐展开。

东流第一关，自古尽繁华

自古以来，富春江江水碧透，两岸峰岭俊秀，沿江名胜古迹棋布。它上通千岛湖和安徽黄山风景区，下接美丽的杭州西湖，分上下两段，从梅城到桐庐为上段，称桐江;从桐庐经富阳到萧山闻家堰为下段，通常称为富春江。富春江两岸山色清丽，严子陵在此结庐隐居，吴均《与朱元思书》赞叹“自富阳至桐庐一百许里，奇山异水，天下独绝”，李桓诗有“天下佳山水，古今推富春”，元代大画家黄公望晚年隐居富春江畔，完成传世名作《富春山居图》。

富春江富阳段全长52公里，两岸群山连绵，江中沙洲点点，景色宜人。

拥有1500多年历史的古村落东梓关村，沿富春江水岸线呈带状分布，自然风光秀美，文化底蕴十分深厚，是典型的江南滨水古村落。自古以来，就是古杭徽水道上的重要关口，也是富春江上的重要水上关隘。

早年间，富阳的东图、新桐、常安、湖源，桐庐的深澳、凤鸣，乃至浦江、诸暨等地的人们，行商往来，都会经过东梓关，通过水路将土纸、烟叶、桕子等土特产运销杭州、上海等地。商人们再通过船只将油、盐、酱、醋、布匹、药材、木料等生产生活用品运送到东梓关埠头卸货，再由行脚班送进内陆。

数百年经营，东梓关就成了商贾云集、客流如梭的商埠集镇，也是富春江上一个重要货物集散地，素有富春江“东流第一关”之称。

东梓关，曾名青草关、东梓、东梓塞，其“东梓”两字，历来众说纷纭。传说吴越行军，到东梓关暂驻，见此处江面狭窄，对面有桐洲沙，往东两公里是洋涨沙，形成了一处天然关隘，为兵家重地，渐渐就形成了一处关口，往来行旅都要通关。因这里是过富春下钱塘必经之地，行人到此无不东望指关，故而得名“东指关”。也有传说指江边种有大批梓树，年深日久后传为东梓关。

多彩文化，滋养东梓关

在歷史的长河里，这座富春江畔的千年名村逐渐形成了原乡文化、关隘文化、孝善文化、中医文化、江鲜文化等，这些文化互相融合发展，共同造就了东梓关。

东梓关，原乡文化历久弥香。这里有远近闻名的“许家大院”古建筑，许氏十房的故事早已让人耳熟能详。如今，村内还较好地保留着近百幢清末至民国初期建造的老房子和不少有价值的历史古迹，它们雕梁画栋、飞檐斗拱、粉墙黛瓦。此外，还有嘉庆年间修建的越石庙、朱家堂楼、王家大院……

东梓关的中医文化独树一帜，许氏一脉人才辈出，其中不乏杏林妙手。

1932年，郁达夫先生因治疗肺病，来东梓关寻找当时的名医许善元治病，在许家大院休养了一段时间。根据这段经历，郁达夫先生创作了小说《东梓关》。小说中，郁达夫借用本地名医、许家豪宅和“许春和”大药房等作为素材，把一批东梓乡绅所共有的气质、风度、品行、志趣等集中于一人，塑造出了徐竹园这个典型形象。这个富春江边的村庄，也因为郁达夫的小说，走进了千万读者的视野。

在安雅堂里，还原着“骨科圣手”张绍富问诊的一幕。这里是一代名医张绍富悬壶济世行医生涯的起始地，也是富阳中医骨伤医院的发祥地。1963年开始，张绍富在此坐诊，医术高明，慕名而来的病人大都乘船经由轮船码头上岸到安雅堂求诊，东梓关村俨然成了“中医骨伤科”的代名词。据说当时轮船码头有一家小面馆，一上午就能卖出两百碗面条，绝对算得上是一个令人惊叹的数字。

东梓关依富春江而立，江鲜资源丰富，鱼类众多，鲜美无比。“未能抛得富春去，一半勾留是江鲜”，东梓关也曾是文人墨客流连忘返的驻足之处，这和脍炙人口的富春江江鲜密不可分。一年四季中，白鲈鱼、刀鱼、鳊鱼、鳗鱼、河虾、铁壳秤砣蟹等层出不穷。

清代诗人许正衡是东梓关人，他在《富春杂咏》一诗中写道：“晚风隔水起渔歌，拨刺银鳞出碧波。首夏鲥鱼新上市，酒楼月下醉人多。”可见当时人们对东梓关江鲜的推崇和留恋。

许姓是东梓关族群中的大姓，最早迁居富阳的是许明，他是五代十国时期吴越相国，隐居在距离东梓关约十里的屠山，积善行德做了不少事。

其后人许彧，生活于五代十国末期到北宋初年，和母亲起初也住在屠山即今下图山一带。因他的母亲孙氏爱吃鱼，但屠山山高林密，难以吃到鲜鱼，因此，许彧先迁居大桐洲，宋初时迁居东梓关。东梓关临着富春江，江鲜资源丰富，鱼类很多。这样，许彧的母亲就能天天吃到最新鲜的鱼了。

许彧侍奉母亲吃鱼，还有一个感人的孝心故事，名叫“对江求鱼”。

迁居东梓关后，许彧每天给母亲孙氏的饭食中都有鲜鱼。一日，许彧因身体不适，没有抓鱼，不久，母亲也因数日没有吃鱼而生病了。当时正逢隆冬时节，天冷，大雪，渔民无法捕鱼，许彧在村里到处都找不到鲜鱼。于是，许彧来到江边，对着富春江水嚎哭。在许彧大哭的时候，忽然有两条鱼跳到了岸边，他就抓了鱼回家，侍奉母亲吃鱼，不久，母亲的病就好了。后来，母亲去世，许彧为母亲守墓三年。地方官知道了这事后，上报朝廷，也因此，许彧在宋雍熙三年（公元986年）得到了朝廷表彰。

如今，随着富春江江鲜大会、年俗节、乡贤大会等活动的举办，医养小镇的建设，不断增强东梓关多彩文化的内生力，培养乡村居民的责任意识、参与意识。

新杭派民居，唤醒沉睡乡村之美

走进东梓关村，漫步长塘边，一幢幢老房子白墙黛瓦，悠长的石板路，古典的四合院，会让你深深感受到时代的变迁，简单但又不失典雅。

这里的乡村建设，有别于任何村。既要能融入周边环境，又不能影响对古村落、老房子的欣赏，要点缀得当、恰到好处。

说到东梓关的美，自然要提杭派民居。在古村落保护工程推进过程中，东梓关村制订实施了民居改造规划，让一幢幢规整气派、斑驳古朴、饱经风霜的老房重新煥发生机，为村民搬迁、建造“杭派民居”创造了条件。

负责东梓关村“回迁房”设计改造的绿城设计师孟凡浩说：“因为有‘限价’因素，我的目标就是做一个合理的造价控制，让当地的村民真正地从腰包里掏出钱来买这个安置房。我们始终坚持一个原则，那就是保留乡村原始面貌，尽可能在原有村庄形态上改善村民生活条件，把村子发展成为有历史记忆、地域特色、民族特点的美丽乡村。”

“我对理想乡村的理解就是原住民的回归。原住民流失了，城市里做‘田园梦’的人回归乡村再多，可能都不是真正意义上能进行自我循环的乡村体系。原住民是否回归应该是乡村振兴的衡量标准之一。”孟凡浩说出他理想中的乡村模样。

乡村设计的力量，赋予美丽乡村的，不仅仅是颜值的升级、功能的完善，还有因人气带来的人流和新生代的回归，如此，文化得以传承。

2016年6月，新杭派民居主体工程相继完工。当月，一期46户村民完成了抽签选房。如今，很多村民都陆续入住新居。

借鉴吴冠中笔下江南民居形象设计而成的回迁房，温婉内敛、简约大气。2017年，经各大媒体报道，东梓关村的新杭派民居一下子成为全国网友关注的焦点，被称为中国乡村“最美回迁房”，东梓关村也成了人人向往的“网红村”。

东梓新村33号，成为新杭派民居的第一位住户。2017年新年前，村民许再新简单装修了一下房子，便入住了。“我们以前住在富春江边，房子是上世纪八九十年代造的，条件和现在的房子肯定没法比，我们老两口住上了330平方米的大房子，当然更舒服。”许再新说。

回迁掀热潮，激发古村新活力

“家乡是个回不去的地方。”这句话，曾令许多走出家门、外出务工的人感同身受。但在东梓关村，随着“最美回迁房”的建成，村里迎来了一波又一波的“回迁潮”。

这不仅是因为东梓关近年来的美丽乡村建设“成果”，还因为人们看到了美丽乡村背后的无限商机，依托家乡的文化背景与现有资源，办起农家乐，发展民宿经济。

位于杭派民居新居A-35号的茶言居，就是其中开办较早的一家。走进院子，赫然是一片小花园，栽着几株绿植，落地玻璃门敞开着，中式混合简约装修风格的堂屋让人眼前一亮。

据民宿主人朱勇杰介绍，除自家人居住外，其余房间都已做了客房，即使遇到旅游淡季，也无需担心支出成本，一个月赚五六千元是很平常的事。

村民赵小儿的民宿“栖迟”，名气越来越大，客人络绎不绝。

“现在东梓关环境这么好，不愁没有人来。”赵小儿对村庄的未来发展充满信心，也对办民宿这件事另有一番向往。

走在富春江边，一座叫“梓缘”的民宿一定能吸引很多人的目光。它以江边楼、酒楼作坊与老供销社为建筑主体改造而成，根生于乡间，却仿佛是为人们亲近自然所营造的憩息空间。而更令人未曾想到的是，创办这间民宿的主人，竟是一位1993年出生的从英国回来的“海归”陆琦瑞。

“我之前在英国伦敦大学学院攻读数字媒体专业，回国后，看到乡村旅游很‘热’，就萌发开民宿的想法，并且想开一间能让人‘回归本心’的民宿。”陆琦瑞这样形容他开这间民宿的初衷。

从义乌返乡的申屠素云，创办杭州富阳素云生态农业有限公司，把手工红糖的手艺带到了东梓关，衍生出几十个红糖产品，很受欢迎，不需要网购，光零售都不够卖。

这样的例子，在东梓关村还有很多。不仅只有“回迁潮”，古村落也吸引了很多“外来户”纷纷入驻。

“我们是被东梓关的设计所吸引过来的，停留下来之后发现这个村子的内涵竟如此丰富。我最大的希望，是能够和大家一起朝着同一个方向努力。”早已和当地村民打成一片的湖北人彭海杰，对东梓关有着更高的期待。

Several years ago， Peng Haijie， a man from Hubei province， travelled to the Dongziguan village with his wife. He was so attracted to the picturesque landscape that he rented a local house， then moved his tea art training business there and settled down with his family. Peng hopes that he could find a nice place to do business and enjoy life， and he chose Dongziguan as the ideal destination. Running a B&B named Shouyicha， Peng continues to pursue his beloved career in tea art while bringing his wife’s dream of opening a B&B into reality.

Nowadays， as all kinds of activities are being held frequently to promote the local specialties along Fuchun River. The now well-known Dongziguan village is attracting a large number of tourists.

Historically speaking， the water of the Fuchun river is always crystal clear， the river itself guarded by undulating hills and dotted with scenic spots along the banks. To the north， it reaches as far as the Thousand Island Lake and the Huangshan Mountain in Anhui， and to the south， the beautiful West Lake in Hangzhou. It has an upper stream and a lower stream： the upper stream is called the Tongjiang River， stretching from Meicheng to Tonglu; the lower stream goes from Tonglu， Fuyang to Wenjiayan in Xiaoshan， and is normally referred to as the Fuchun River.

The full length of the Fuchun River in Fuyang is 52 kilometers and offers pleasant views. Dongziguan， an ancient village of over 1，500 years old， is built along the riverbank in the shape of a band. It is a classic Jiangnan （south of the Yangtze River） village with a spectacular natural landscape and a profound culture. It is also a significant strategic pass for merchandise exchanges throughout history.

From ancient times， different cultures have been nurtured here， which then intertwine with one another， together making the Dongziguan village the way it is today.

There is a rich historical atmosphere， in that nearly a hundred houses built from the end of Qing dynasty （1616-1911） to the early Republican period are well preserved， along with numerous invaluable historical sites. Dongziguan also has a unique traditional Chinese medicine culture. What is worth mentioning is the family of Xu， from where talented doctors have come out in succession. In 1932， Yu Dafu （1896-1945）， a famed short story write and poet， came to Dongziguan to seek treatment for his lung disease from Xu Shanyuan， a famous doctor at that time， and stayed temporarily at Xu’s residence for recovery. Based on that experience， Yu created his novel Dongziguan， which let the riverside village walk into the sight of millions of readers.

As a village by the side of the Fuchun River， Dongziguan is rich in aquatic food resources， which， since ancient times， have been attracting many men of letter to come here， writing poems and articles while enjoying the delicious food. Throughout a year， a wide variety of aquatic foods including sea bass， swordfish， bream， eel， river shrimp and crab just keep appearing.

The family of Xu is one of the largest in Dongziguan. Xu Ming， the earliest in his family to settle in Fuyang， was the chancellor of the Wuyue Kingdom （907-978） during the period of Five Dynasties and Ten Kingdoms （907-979）. He retreated to Tushan， a place about five kilometers away from Dongziguan， where he did piles of good deeds， and later led a life of a hermit. Xu Yu was one of his descendants well-known for his filial piety. At first Xu Yu lived with his mother at Tushan as well， but his mother was especially fond of fish， which were almost unavailable in the mountainous Tushan. Therefore， Xu Yu relocated with his family to Tongzhou and then to Dongziguan， the riverside village with an adequate supply of fish.

When you walk into the village of Dongziguan， strolling along the waters while admiring the white-walled， black-tiled old buildings， you will feel deeply that the changes of time have shaped this place with simple yet elegant vibes. There is something outstanding about the construction programs taking place in this village， which perfectly fit in the existing surroundings without letting down the sightseers who come for the authentic beauty of old buildings in an ancient village.

A significant part of Dongziguan’s charisma is contributed by the program of the Hangzhou-style civil dwellings， where weather-beaten old houses have been renovated to accommodate relocated villagers. According to the designer Meng Fanhao， who is in charge of this program， the goal is to control the costs within a reasonable range， and make the house prices affordable to local villagers. “We are sticking to a principle， that is to keep the original look of the village. Based on that principle， we are trying to improve the living conditions for local people， and to make this village more beautiful with its own historical memories and geographical as well as ethnic characters，” said Meng.

He also explained his understanding of an ideal village， “As far as I see it， it is all about the returning of local residents. If a village is losing her residents， there is no compensation for that， even if city dwellers with some sort of idyllic dream keep coming in swarms. Only the local residents can help to build a self-recycling system for their own village.”

In June 2016， the main part of this program was completed， and many villagers have been moving into their new home. Since the program fully wrapped up， the village has seen a returning boom. This is not only because of the successful results of the “Beautiful Countryside” programs， but also because of unlimited commercial opportunities lying behind. Relying on the cultural background and existing resources of their hometown， many local people who returned have begun to develop their businesses in agritainment and B&B.

Chayanju， one of the earliest B&Bs， with its green plants in the courtyard and a wide-open French glass door， looks just like a garden. Apart from the owner-occupied rooms， as introduced by Zhu Yongjie the owner， the rest are all functioning as guest rooms. Even in slack seasons， it is needless to worry about the costs， for he could easily make five to six thousand yuan per month. There is another B&B with an eye-catching appearance， one that is mainly transformed from a riverside building， a brewery and an old shop. The owner， quite to people’s surprise， is a young man born in 1993 who just got back from England as an overseas student.

Such cases are aplenty， the heroes of which are not confined to the returned local people， but also nonlocals like Peng Haijie， a man from Hubei. “Originally we were attracted here by the layout of the village. Yet we have been further fascinated as we dig deeper into the folk culture. My biggest hope is to work together with everyone here towards the same goal — to make the village a better place，” said Peng.