2020年的波尔多和它的典型性

David Allen MW

葡萄酒大师（Master of Wine）；全球用户数量最多、影响力最大的葡萄酒信息搜索网站Wine-Searcher葡萄酒总监。从业近30年，具有丰富的葡萄酒销售、推广、培训、品鉴等方面的知识。

4月份，期酒周结束后全球各地的酒评人均发布了新年份的期酒报告。David Allen MW也在本刊公布了新一年的期酒报告，覆盖了波尔多各主要产区，并针对各产区挑选了最优质的酒款。

In April, after the end of the En primeur tasting, critics from all over the world released reports on the new vintage. David Allen MW also announced the new year's en primeur report in this issue, which covering the main producing areas of Bordeaux, and selecting the best quality wines for each producing area.

尝了部分2020年波尔多期酒样品后我觉得挺惊讶的ÿ42款酒里面我挑出了14款我认为是品质出众且尝不到任何失误的酒。这一年份的品质似乎整个产区都表现得不错，所有的主要区域都出现了传统、具有典型性的酒款，对它们各自的风土有很好的表述。这里有几个例子。

先从圣埃米利永的ChâUFBV-B(BGGFMJlSF说起，这款酒表达出了优雅和柔美感，很符合圣埃米利永丘陵间那砾石主导的土壤应有的期待。它同样展现出很棒的深度。活泼的红布林水果香气混合了更深层、更丰满，色泽更深郁的水果气息ÿ除开它们，丰富的新橡木桶香气也主导着味觉体验。

在波美侯，Château Gazin是一款源于当地风土葡萄酒的教科书般例子，它的酒色深郁带紫罗兰的质感。丰满、黑樱桃和波森莓组成的果香间夹杂着松露及泥土的芳香。它既丰满又粗糙，水果的香气直到最后依然活泼。

位于格拉芙佩萨克-雷奥良村的史密斯拉菲特酒庄的红葡萄酒呈现典型的坚实，有结构和内敛的感觉。然而Château De Fieuzal的红葡萄酒则以馥郁成熟、浓郁和干净的新雪松橡木桶香更夺人眼球。

至于梅多克，Château Poujeaux展现出特别干净、清爽的黑加仑香气及优雅的绿叶香气，这中度酒体的葡萄酒让人难以置信地和谐ÿ特别是对于一款明显以赤霞珠主导的葡萄酒来说。如果它的价格合理的话，那这会是这个年份里最有价值的葡萄酒之一。

历年来都很喜欢玛歌村的Château d’Issan。一直以来它都是一款优雅且香气馥郁的玛歌葡萄酒，2020年份更是如此。违反直觉的是玛歌村是梅多克地区最南部的主要区域，但它却是整个地区里最凉爽的，出产更轻盈、更优雅、更活泼的赤霞珠主导的葡萄酒。这款酒有着经典的花香（紫罗兰）。水果香气方面主要由红色水果（红莓）还有黑醋栗组成ÿ在活泼的酸度下两者都显得充满活力并带来了悠长而和谐的余味。

圣朱利安有着许多存续了很久的酒庄。Château Beychevelle, Château Talbot,Château Langoa Barton, Château Léoville Barton 还有 Château Léoville Poyferré等均体现了圣朱利安的典型特征，混合了新鲜的黑色水果还有更宽广更丰厚的红色水果香气，并有着出色的结构。就拿龙船庄作为例子，它的深郁酒色显示它是一款强烈而清爽的葡萄酒，呈现了黑色水果，黑醋栗、黑莓及布林等的触感。这款酒的质感柔软，结构细腻并和雪松/香草等橡木香气很好地融为一体。

Pauillac出现了一款出众的葡萄酒：Château Pichon Comtesse de Lalande，颇具它所在风土的典型性，风格上相较于产区北部葡萄酒所呈现的经典黑加仑风格，它更接近圣朱利安产区的葡萄酒。酒庄的葡萄园靠近圣朱利安，其中有一小块位于圣朱利安的田被允许参与混酿，所以这也不奇怪。女爵堡质感丝滑，带有成熟、坚实、浓郁的水果内核。它平衡的余味持续时间非常长。

而我真心喜欢的是St-Estephe的Château Phélan Ségur，这款酒展示了这片略为温暖的产区上所有的典型成熟、带泥土气息的深色水果香气，融合了细腻的结构感，绿叶般的清爽以及可爱的水果稠密感。

上面带大家一瞥波尔多2020年份葡萄酒，揭示了横跨波尔多的众多产区里都出现了非常吸引人的葡萄酒。这一年的葡萄酒和谐而经典，带有清爽的酸度，活泼的水果香气，细腻的单宁及平衡的酒精度。很多葡萄酒都拥有稠密的水果香气使得它们可以极好地陈年，同样也使得它们在整个生命周期里都显得诱人和易饮。

Having tasted some 2020 Bordeaux enprimeur samples I was impressed - of 42 wines tasted I identified fourteen I thought outstanding and didn’t taste any failures. Quality from the vintage seems consistently high across the region, with all major communes producing classic, typical wines,expressive of their terroirs. Here are a few examples.Starting with ChUFBV-B(BGGFMJlSF in Saint-Emilion, this wine managed to show an elegant and suppleness,expected from vineyards on the limestone-dominated soils of Saint-Emilion’s Cotes. It also showed excellent depth. Lively red-plum fruit combined with deeper, richer, darker fruits -without them or the plentiful new oak dominating the flavours.

In Pomerol, Chteau Gazin was a textbook example of a wine from the commune, it was deeply-coloured with a velvety texture. Rich, dark-cherry and boysenberry fruit was laced with truffles and earthy flavours. It was both rich and rustic, the fruit staying lively to the end.

From Pessac-Léognan, in the Graves,Chteau Smith Haut Lafitte Rouge was typically taught, structured and reserved,however Château De Fieuzal Rouge stole the show with its opulent ripe, dense wine packed with clean new cedary oak.

On the Medoc, Chteau Poujeaux displayed spectacularly clean, fresh blackcurrant/cassis aromas with delicate leafy notes, this mid-weight wine was incredibly harmonious -JOBMJOFBS Cabernet Sauvignon-dominated style. If it is reasonably priced this could be one of the great value buys of this vintage.

A perennial favourite from Margaux is Chteau d’Issan. Always an elegant and perfumed Margaux, the 2020 was especially so. Counter-intuitively as it is the southern-most of the Medoc’s principal communes, Margaux is the coolest of the principal terroirs, producing lighter, more elegant and lifted Cabernet Sauvignon-dominated wines. This has classic floral (violet) aromas. The fruit characteristics are primarily of redfruits (redcurrant) and then cassis - both enlivened by lifted acidity that gives a long harmonious finish.

St-Julien has numerous highly-consistent properties. Chteau Beychevelle, Chteau Talbot, Chteau Langoa Barton, Chteau Léoville Barton and Chteau Léoville Poyferré all showed great St-Julien typicity, combining fresh black fruit with broader, more generous red-fruit flavours and excellent structure. To take one of these as an example Beychevelle whose deep dark colour led to an intense,fresh wine, showing dark-fruit, cassis,blackberry and plummy touches. The wine’s texture was smooth, its structure fine and cedary/vanilla oak was well-

One outstanding wine From Pauillac was Chteau Pichon Comtesse de Lalande which showed typicity of its own terroir,in a style closer to that of St-Julien than the classic lean cassis/blackcurrant style shown by wines from the North of the commune. The estate’s vineyards border St-Julien, with one small plot in St-Julien being permitted in its blend, so this is not surprising. The Pichon Lalande was silkytextured, with a ripe, firm, dense fruit core. The wine’s balanced finish was very long.

A real favorite however was the St-Estephe property of Chteau Phélan Ségur, which delivered a wine possessing all the ripe, earthy dark-fruits typical of this slightly warmer commune, combined with a fine structure, leafy freshness and lovely fruit-density.

The above glimpses of Bordeaux’s lineup from 2020 demonstrate is that plenty of very attractive wines were made in communes right across Bordeaux. The wines are harmonious and classic with fresh acidity, lifted fruit, fine tannins and balanced alcohols. Many wines have a fruit density that will allow them to age superbly, but which are likely to be attractive and approachable throughout their lives.