白马湖，从渔村到创意城

日青

在杭州，以前白马湖是打渔人的天下，如今白马湖是动漫人的乐园、文创者的天堂。

我们当地人一直把杭州的白马湖叫“白茫湖”。只要一说起白茫湖，我的脑海里就会呈现出白茫茫的一片湖面，湖边偶尔点缀着几间草舍，潜意识里觉得白马湖很荒凉。

直到有亲戚嫁到了那里，我才知道，原来白马湖就是一个普通的农村，既不白茫茫也不荒凉，房子也不是草舍，同样都是二三层砖瓦房，住在那里的农户家家有条小渔船，个个都会打渔摸螺蛳，日子过得很不错。

一

第一年走亲戚的路线就是沿着一条河，一直往东走，亲戚家的房子就在河边一棵大树下。河很宽，我感觉人一落水就会往下沉还捞不上来，河边人烟稀少，长满了各式各样的植物，当然还有芦苇迎风飘荡，如果是傍晚往回走，迎着夕阳，感觉像是走在电影画面里。所以白马湖成为景区，我一点也不奇怪，因为本来就很美，有一种野趣美。

白马湖的名字其实还有另外的由来，因为它和湘湖隔座山，那座山就是越王城山。当越王勾践在山上卧薪尝胆的时候，山脚下就成了他的跑马场，他在这里排兵布阵，活生生把一块地刨成了湖，所以叫排马湖。还有说法是，白马湖和钱塘江有关，是钱塘江潟湖，也是钱塘江的泄洪区，如今的水系也和钱塘江相通。看来钱塘江真是江浙大地的母亲河啊，哪儿都有它！到现代，更贴切的说法为，白马湖是西兴砖瓦厂和长河砖瓦厂的前身。

白马湖有条南北向的马路叫长江路，但和长江无关，因为贯通长河古镇和钱塘江，才叫长江路。此路由北往南一路经过长河老街、冠山、动漫广场、海山公园、创意城、华数园区、塘子堰、三郎戴、井山坞。长江路的尽头是湘湖越王路，右边是井山坞。井山坞很有来头，井山坞的湖面是原来长河砖瓦厂挖泥形成的，水很深，湖中心的土堆据说是秦始皇的一个妃子随皇帝出巡，忽染疾病，死后埋葬于此。改造后的井山坞非常漂亮，有湖，有梯田，有栅栏，别有风味。长江路的左边是湘湖景区的竹坞探幽（想看的可以点湘湖），对岸就是跨湖桥博物馆，此路很神奇地把萧山和滨江连在一起了。

二

白马湖分为一期、二期、三期。一期相对比较粗糙，直来直去，原生态，石板铺路，樟树做绿化树，把一些河道和水塘疏浚成湖面，改造成公园，其中保留着一幢白墙黑瓦的老房子，现在好像是朱德庸的工作室;二期略有提升，建了动漫广场，动漫博物馆，海山公园，农居SOHO;三期更有主题，月季园，井山坞农耕文化园，网络作家村。单论景色和规模，白马湖比湘湖要逊色许多，毕竟让白马湖声名鹊起的不是它的美景，而是动感十足、魅力无限的动漫节和文博会。动漫节的火爆离不开中南卡通，文博会的火爆离不开白马湖农居SOHO，那一幢幢SOHO农居“隐居”着一个个知名文艺工作者，一推门进去就是一屋子宝藏。

记不清白马湖创意城是哪一年成立的，也记不清白马湖建国饭店是哪一年开业的，到底是先有动漫节，还是先有白马湖动漫广场，到底是先有农居SOHO，还是先有文博会，反正那一个区块特别火爆。每年的5月和10月，COSPLAY，文玩古董，依次登场，成为杭州人过节的一种方式。最后建成的中国网络作家村“最葵园”，更是把知名的网络作家请进来，成为白马湖网络作家村的村民，一幢幢农民房子，摇身一变，成为作家的工作室。这其实挺符合滨江的风格，也许滨江不擅长造景，但搞产业无疑是得心应手、手到擒来，能把想做的产业做得风生水起，这也是国际滨的本事。有一年开动漫节，把滨盛路与火炬大道口东面的这块空地开辟成停车场，有专门的巴士把人接驳到动漫广场，如今这个停车场建了宝龙城。

于我而言，对白马湖印象最深的是柴家坞和孔家里，因为柴家坞是我的外婆家，孔家里是我父亲的外婆家，如今这两个地方都是白马湖农居SOHO的重点区块。

在我的印象中，柴家坞始终是一个安静的小山村，躲在冠山的怀抱里，背靠冠山寺，所有的房子都依山而建，仿佛与世隔绝，在外面绝对看不到里面还有村庄。村子中间有一处泉眼掩映在灌木从中，每天早上，泉水清清，家家户户汲水而饮。冬夜下雪，万籁俱静，只闻得山上竹子被雪压断的声音，早上起来，白茫茫的一片，安静得掉根针都能听到。小山村住户不多，每次去外婆家，挨家挨户走过，都要打个招呼，仿佛全村都是亲戚，感觉特别的亲切和温暖。柴家坞是“全球生态500佳”，它的地理位置决定了这个称号是名至实归。

孔家里和柴家坞是完全不同的类型。如果说柴家坞是小门小院，那孔家里无疑是大户人家，到处都是高高的马头墙，气派的大墙门，长长的连廊，古桥，河道，气宇非凡。下雨天可以走很多户人家而不濕鞋，因为所有的房子都连在一起，都有连廊到户，房子里还有精美的砖雕，石头窗户，大院连小院，大天井里有小天井，当年肯定是富甲一方。一条南北向的小河穿村而过，河里有小船四通八达，我们常常坐在石板桥上谈古论今，放眼望去，小河弯弯绕绕，穿过海山桥、王汛桥，我也不知它最终流向何方。河两边有埠头，可洗衣，可上下船，右边有一条石板路沿河而走，简直就是现在江南古镇的模样。

此情此景，都是美好的过往。以前白马湖是打渔人的天下，如今白马湖是动漫人的乐园、文创者的天堂，农民住进了分配的冠山小区和自购的高楼，留下足够的空间给那些文人墨客在各具特色的小院里冥思着、创作着，只有那个坐在桥头畅想明天的女孩此刻在写着文章。这样的变化是让人欣喜而快乐的。就让我们记住柴家坞的山泉水和孔家里的石板桥吧。

White Horse Lake： From Fishing Villages to Creative Powerhouse

By Ri Qing

When I was young I was under the impression that the White Horse Lake was a remote and desolate world shrouded in a white mist. The impression stayed with me for a long time until a relative of our family married someone living in a village by the lake and I got to know more about the lake zone. I visited my relative there. It turned out that the villages around the lake were just like other rural villages in the region. There were two-story or three-story houses and people there fished frequently in the lake to put fish and snail on the kitchen table.

The first time I went to visit my relative in a village by the lake， I followed a path eastward along a river. The relative and her husband lived in a riverside house flanked closely by a giant tree. The river was so wide that I thought if one fell into the river it would not be easy to get out. The river banks were sparsely populated but the trees were thick and reeds moved in wind. I am not surprised at all that White Horse Lake is now a tourist attraction. The lake is part of a larger region of historical interests. For example， near the lake is Kuahuqiao， an archaeological site where an 8，000-year-old canoe was unearthed in 2002. Further on is Xianghu Lake， another scenic spot.

The White Horse Lake is no more a zone of idyllic beauty and quietness. It has seen development in three phases. The first development project was relatively simple and straightforward. The original ecology was preserved. The roads were paved with flagstones， camphor trees were planted as landscape trees， some streams and ponds were dredged and became part of the lake， many old houses were demolished to make room for lakeside parks. Only one old house， refurbished， still stands today， serving as a studio for a cartoon master from Taiwan. In the second development project， the 120-hectare lake saw the appearance of more modern-looking structures such as Cartoon & Animation Plaza and Cartoon & Animation Museum， Rural Residence SOHO， and Haishan Park. The third development project saw more themed structures such as a center for internet novelists.

Though Xianghu Lake is better known for its scenic beauty， the White Horse Lake attracts larger crowds because of the annual China International Cartoon & Animation Festival in April and May since 2005 and Hangzhou Cultural Expo in October.

For me， two villages around the lake are my favorite： Chaijiawu is where my maternal grandmother lives and Kongjiali is where my fathers grandmother once lived. In my memory， Chaijiawu is a quiet mountain hamlet. All the houses are perched on the slope. Beside the village is Guanshan Temple. The village is blocked by the hills. I remember there was a spring where villagers fetched drinking water in the morning. When it snowed， the world became soundless. All things were white. Silence reigned. The hamlet didnt have a large population. The second day after my arrival， I would visit all the houses in the small village and say hello to all the neighbors from house to house. The whole village was like a family. The village is one of the Global 500 Roll of Honor for Environmental Achievement by the United Nations Environment Program. The honor speaks most fluently for Chaijiawu.

If Chaijiawu can be compared to a hermit living in solitude， then Kongjiali is a village of grace and grandeur. The village is characterized by big courtyard houses connected with each other with covered corridors， ancient bridges and rivers. All these houses are connected and people can walk from one courtyard to another in a rainy day without getting their shoes wet. And these houses present brick sculptures and stone windows. There must have been a time when some villagers were very rich.

The lake is no longer what it was so many years ago. Today， it is the paradise for entrepreneurs， internet novelists， and people working in the creative and cultural industry. The lake zone has long been vacated by original rural residents who have already moved into other communities.