每堂课都是美食文化的碰撞

屠悦

换上笔挺的白色厨服，系上黑色的围布，带上黑色的厨帽，体会白糖、面粉在指尖轻柔地舞蹈，最后幻化成一道道精致的甜点……几乎每位从“星曜堂”毕业的学员，都会在自己的朋友圈感慨：这样的经历“好幸福”。

“星曜堂”全名为星曜堂国际厨艺学院，由杭州萃品荟教育咨询有限公司创办，主打法式西点和法式料理的培训，在烘培爱好者中很是受捧。还有一些学员“打飞的”从外地赶来上课，甚至西式甜点网红“子瑜妈妈”也来进修上课。

是什么吸引了大家？

与其说“星曜堂”提供的是法式厨艺培训，不如说它为那些向往精致生活的人提供了一个感受中西饮食文化差异的平台。用“星曜堂”几位创始人的话来说，“把时间浪费在美好的食物上”。为了这种美好，他们请来了来自米其林三星餐厅的外籍明星导师团队，甚至连助教团队也都拥有法国著名院校教育背景和多年的教学经验。

今年6～10月，星曜堂还与法国第一高端餐饮集团、号称“厨艺界的哈佛”的法国雷诺特厨艺学院达成战略合作，推出了法式料理中外联合课程，进入高阶课程的学员还能去雷诺特厨艺学院巴黎总校进修。

做美好的食物，是爱的一种表达方式，也是一种积极向上的生活方式。“星曜堂”想把这种生活方式做到极致。

想引入精致生活的厨艺学校

世间万物，唯有爱与美食不可辜负。那些酸甜苦辣咸和记忆交织在一起，就会愈发显得珍贵万分。投资人施国荣就是冲着一份味蕾记忆，看好“星曜堂”的前景的。作为杭州三豪实业集团的董事长，他回忆起母亲的水蒸蛋，触动了内心最柔软的地方，“美食是存在感情基础的。”

原来，施国荣小时候家里兄弟姐妹多，生活条件也并不宽裕，一只鸡蛋要几个孩子一起分享。香滑软糯的嫩黄色蛋羹上，滴上几滴赤红的酱油，母亲做的水蒸蛋，“味道别提有多好了！”

时光流逝，如今母亲年纪大了，打蛋的时候手也会抖，加盐和酱油的时候又把握不好咸度，但施国荣依然觉得天底下最好吃的就是母亲亲手做的水蒸蛋。

美食背后的感情基础，其实就是一种生活方式，因为吃可以拉近彼此的距离，美食可以成为与他人情感沟通的有效方式。这也是“星曜堂”的初衷——吃，可以变得很精致。

作为创始人之一，来自香港的黄展云这些年感受到内地生活方式的转变：“大家越来越接受西餐文化，而且越来越向往精致的慢生活，而不是快餐文化。”黄展云家从外公一代开始，就在香港从事餐饮行业。从小的生活环境，加上30多年的酒店从业经验，让他对美食变得愈发执着。特别是2005年加入香港四季酒店，他作为集团亚洲旗舰店的筹办团队成员，看到同期负责筹办法国餐厅的主厨和经理对美食极致的讲究和精细的服务，而这两人均来自巴黎米其林三星餐厅，黄展云心里的那个念头发芽了：“希望可以引进米其林标准的烹调技术，将来运用西方新技术、新设备和呈现手法来优化中国菜，培育新一代餐饮业接班人。”而这在2008年有了最初的成果，那年米其林首次为香港餐厅评星时，香港四季酒店的“龙景轩”成为全球第一家米其林三星中餐厅。黄展云说，吃是一种享受，是一种态度，也是一种文化。

对此，另一位“星曜堂”创始人兼首席执行官林刚也很认同。在他眼中，美食文化的概念更宽泛，餐桌礼仪也是其一，“现在大家的生活品质提高了，一起约个饭，除了吃更多的是为了交流，所以礼仪显得重要起来。”

在林刚看来，虽然越來越多的人接受了西餐，但很少有人懂得西餐文化。“刀叉怎么放，先吃什么菜，都是有讲究的。”林刚就曾在大年三十晚上接到杭州朋友从香港打来的电话，原来她一家人受邀参加生意伙伴设的家宴，临时发现是特别正式的西餐，她傻眼了，该穿什么衣服、怎么用刀叉完全不知道，突然之间手脚都不知道放哪里了，于是她连忙求林刚在电话里作紧急培训。

“可能对于这样的‘精致生活，目前有些人觉得有点‘装，但它的确是我们蛮缺失的。”林刚说。

法式料理遭遇本土食材

“星曜堂”在官网上有一句口号：“致力于成为国内领先的美食创业基地，旨在培养更多的年轻人踏足世界美食舞台。”为此，他们也下了血本——学院大楼上下共4层，占地2000平方米左右。

通往各个教学区的路上，分别有三朵米其林花。仔细看，米其林花上还有一只正在跳跃的青蛙。“星曜堂”的校长郑佩介绍，米其林花寓意着学员的厨艺不断进步，而青蛙则是希望学员跳出国界，与国际接轨。

“星曜堂”在教育领域的培训课程包括法式西点培训、法式料理培训、SCA咖啡师初中级培训，西点、料理课程由外籍导师团队自主研发，课程内容本地化，以符合国内消费者的饮食习惯。教学模式方面，“星曜堂”采用小班化教学，由一位外籍导师+一位中国助教联合授课，并且两位外教导师穿插授课，课程分为导师演示与学员实操，以实操内容为主，通过学员亲手实操，掌握每款单品的制作。

目前，“星曜堂”有三位常驻外教导师——马来西亚籍的Donald Lim和意大利籍的Emanuele Canuto。Donald Lim被学员称呼为“当劳”，主要负责法式西点培训。别看他是90后，却拥有9年的法式西点从业经验，24岁就担任米其林三星餐厅L'Auberge du Vieux Puits西厨主管。Emanuele Canuto则拥有17年的法式料理从业经验，22岁就担任瑞士日内瓦米其林一星餐厅Restaurant Il Lago Hotel des Bergues（四季酒店集团）西厨主管。

还有来自法国西北部布列塔尼的高级导师DAMIEN BACCON，专攻欧式面包。他目前担任“世界面包大赛”的评委，而这项赛事号称面包界的“奥林匹克”。

其实，每次上课都是中西方餐饮文化的碰撞。在当劳看来，中国人比较喜欢水果慕斯、抹茶慕斯，而在西方，更受青睐的是巧克力慕斯。而Emanuele更是遭遇了来自学员的挑战——有学员带了核桃到课堂上，希望Emanuele拿核桃做一道菜。“核桃这种食材太中式了，法式料理里很少用。”Emanuele用足了心思，最后用核桃做了一道汤和一道菜。再比如，有学员拿来云南松茸，这跟法国松茸不一样，最后Emanuele将本地食材改良，研发出本土化的法国料理。Emanuele说，平时经常碰到学员带来中式原料，他就会混合到法式料理，这种碰撞也让他感到惊喜。

感受到中西餐飲文化碰撞的不只是导师，学员的感受尤为深刻。

学员七七说，自己以前接触到的西餐比较简单，没有中餐的那种千变万化，很死板。她告诉笔者：“通过在这里的学习，我还是开了眼界。西餐里还是有很多想法、很多构思的，从酱料到配菜到摆盘，都要根据主菜花很多的心思，有时候都让我觉得过分精细了。”

学员奶茶对于法式鱼汤印象很深：“外教主厨每一个步骤都讲解得非常精准，助教老师也很给力。鱼汤和以前我经常喝的法式浓汤不一样，这道汤清澈透明。虽然只是汤，但我真的认识到了法式料理的精细。海鲜的处理、蔬菜的煎炒、两款法式芥末蛋黄酱、汤的熬制、蒸（你能想象这道汤是蒸出来的吗）、过滤……还有配菜的烹调方法、摆盘的方法，真的是很精致的生活。”

目前，“星曜堂”已有300余位学员陆续毕业，多数学员已创立了自主品牌门店，开始了个人的创业梦。

Hangzhou， capital of Zhejiang Province in eastern China， is becoming more and more international， as testified by Chefinary International Culinary Academy， founded in 2016 in the city.

Hangzhou is now a star city in China as it is home to Alibaba， the worlds biggest internet commerce business. A city of culture， tourism and history， Hangzhou attracts tourists all over the world. Over 160 million visited in 2017. The city boasts a very strong hospitality industry including numerous restaurants. As more and more internationals are coming to the city and talents flock from all parts of China into the city to further their careers， restaurants in the city are diversifying to cater to different groups of consumers. The setup of the academy in Hangzhou can be best understood in this light.

The founders of the academy are a group of entrepreneurs. One of them is Shi Guorong， a native of Hangzhou and president of Hangzhou Sanhao Industrial Group. Huang Zhanyun， a professional engaged in hospitality business in Hong Kong for three decades， has got the idea of introducing Michelin standards to promote Chinese food. Lin Gang， CEO of the academy， has had direct experience and knowledge concerning the market demand for high-end training in food and related etiquette.

The academy occupies an area of 2，000 square meters on four floors in a building in Hangzhou. The academy offers training courses in pastry， French culinary arts， and coffee skills for primary and intermediate certificates. The training courses of pastry and French culinary arts are especially designed and developed by the academy and the textbooks are localized to cater to the needs and requires of local consumers.

The academy has launched a training course in partnership with ?cole Len?tre， a pastry training powerhouse in France. Trainees at the advanced level can take a training course at ?cole Len?tre in Paris.

Some industrial insiders observe that the academy provides more than training courses. It is actually a platform for those in pursuit of an elegant life style to experience the best of western culinary arts. The most popular training course at the academy is pastry. Some trainees are from other parts of the country.

Training classes at the academy are of small sizes. Usually an international teacher and a Chinese teaching assistant work hand in hand. Trainees are able to acquire hands-on experience. At present， the academy has two resident teachers. One is a Malaysian pastry maser named Donald Lim and the other Emanuele Canuto， an Italian chef.

Donald Lim， though in his late 20s， is an experienced pastry master. He has worked nine years as a French-style pastry chef. At 24， he was appointed executive chef at LAuberge du Vieux Puits， a Michelin 3-star restaurant in France. Emanuele Canuto has worked in French restaurants for 17 years. At 22， he was appointed an executive chef at a Michelin 1-star restaurant.

Trainees at the academy find the training courses fascinating. The classroom serves as a place where different cultures clash and merge. Some trainees want to make pastries or dishes with local ingredients. They bring local food ingredients to classrooms and ask their masters how to introduce local food ingredients into recipes.

Donald Lim has found that trainees are more interested in making mousses flavored with fruit or powdered tea whereas in the west chocolate mousses are more popular. Emanuele Canuto finds it challenging to use Chinese ingredients to make dishes in French style. A trainee once brought some nutmeat of walnut to Canuto in the hope to see the popular Chinese ingredient play a part in a dish. Canuto studied the ingredient and made a dish and a soup. On another occasion， a trainee brought Matsutake Mushroom produced in Yunnan to the classroom. This mushroom is different from the species seen in France. Canuto processed the Yunnan mushroom in an innovative way before localizing a French recipe to cater to the Chinese flavor.

“Training here is eye-opening，” said a trainee， “Making a dish in the western style needs plenty of planning and thinking. Sometimes I think it too sophisticated.”

Over 300 trainees have graduated from the academy and most of them have set up their own restaurant businesses.