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古河回归

2016-12-21尚晋

世界建筑 2016年12期
关键词:聚居区

古河回归

Te River Returns

摩洛哥帝国城市非斯的阿拉伯聚居区是一处联合国教科文组织(UNESCO)世界遗产地。然而每况愈下的环境威胁着这一令世人注目的殊荣。恢复聚居区这条古老的脉搏,将使污染严重、不见天日的非斯河让这一历史悠久的衰退之心重焕生机。

水即是生命——就是如此简单。当这种珍贵的资源陷入短缺时,人们就会对它的价值产生尤为深刻的认识,而这正是马格里布沙漠的情况。“水是我们文化的中心要素。”摩洛哥建筑师阿齐扎·沙乌尼解释道。的确,由于水象征的纯净在宗教生活中发挥了举足轻重的作用,以至于水井或喷泉成了非斯大部分住宅的特征。对于许多以这个摩洛哥北部城市为家的人来说,再没有什么比潺潺流水更悦耳的声音了。

建在水上

非斯城选址在一条大河肥沃的谷地中绝非偶然。“Medinat Fas”是伊德里斯一世于789年在右岸创建的。20年后阿利亚在左岸建成。中世纪期间,这两座城市合为一座生机勃勃的大都市,并一直快速发展。

朝代几经更迭——伊德里斯王朝、马林王朝、阿拉维王朝——非斯一直是王朝的都城,与拉巴特、马拉喀什和梅克内斯并称帝国四大城市。直至1912年法国人到来,首都才迁至拉巴特,1956年独立之后一直延续至今。

虽然是出于实际考虑而进行的整治,但给非斯带来的效果意义重大——这座城市曾一度丧失它的经济和政治地位。大量受过教育的人流向其他中心,作为世界上最古老的大学——自859年成立以来一直延续至今的卡鲁因大学所在地,它在知识界的声望也受到了影响。

作为聚居区曾经的生命之血,今天的非斯被称为“垃圾之河”。在穿过聚居区时,这条河大部分都被藏在地下。

聚居区——活的机体

非斯河仅有4m宽。但它是这座100万人的城市走向衰落最有力的象征。这过去赐予生命的河流如今不过是条排水道,被戏称为“垃圾之河”。在非斯的历史中心,即聚居区,情况尤为严重。聚居区约有300hm2,有伊斯兰学校、老客栈、住宅、宫殿、花园和喷泉。大部分都藏于素面高墙之后,这些自在天地中是典型的阿拉伯-安达卢西亚建筑。1981年,该地区被UNESCO列为世界遗产地,它的各种精神和文化价值得到认可。但这不是一座博物馆。

2 干预措施的主要平面/Key plan of interventions

3 非斯河的衰败/Desecration of Fez river

4-6 项目将使非斯河不再遭受污染,并使河流恢复潜在的公共设施功能/Te project will stop the Fez River from being polluted by sewage overflow and will allow the river to regain its potential as a public amenity

7 Rcif公共交通枢纽/Rcif public transit hub8 修复设施剖面细部/Detail section of restorer

9 Rcif清真寺广场效果图/Plaza view towards Rcif Mosque

在阿齐扎·沙乌尼看来,这个聚居区是一个活的机体。这些紧密交错的街道焕发着勃勃生机。手工艺行业保持着繁荣的贸易,尤其是河边一线的舒瓦拉制革厂。原来给皮革清洗、加工、磨光和染色的大缸仍在使用,并成为大受欢迎的旅游点。然而,传统的皮革加工方式早已失传。现在用的化学药剂——铬等重金属不可避免地流入河水。但即便在达到聚居区之前河水就已被严重污染了。这座城市中心给河水增加的废水量就是寓言中压在这头长期受苦的骆驼背上的稻草。

这不仅是流淌在聚居区中的有毒鸡尾酒,还有令人作呕的恶臭。居民们对多年的不作为忍无可忍,终于决定自己动手,在5年前用混凝土把河填上。如今只能偶尔遇到看不见底的水和被污染的河岸。“非斯河是一条老鼠横行的臭水沟,”阿齐扎·沙乌尼说道,“它的状况根本不配作摩洛哥历史的宝珠!”

世界遗产状态遭受威胁

非斯河的衰败象征着聚居区整体的衰退。在看似陷入恶性循环的处境中,大量建筑亟待修缮,而新建筑往往也质量很差。公共空间稀缺——20万居民只有两个小公园。UNESCO看到了这一情况并公开了意见,认为非斯正面临着失去世界遗产地位的威胁。

政府把UNESCO的话放在心上,并作出积极回应。在规划中,两座水处理厂将用于城市排污,河道将重见天日,并复原在聚居区中的历史河道。非斯古老中心的生气将会再次流动起来。为实现这一综合复兴规划,围绕阿齐扎·沙乌尼建立了一个团队。这位曾在美国留学的建筑师回到了她出生的城市——“我希望承担这个项目是因为我爱我的家乡。”

非斯是摩洛哥帝国四大城市中最古老的。它的聚居区是UNESCO世界遗产地。

以人为本

河道的复兴规划以及城市更新的相关策略是同城市规划师兼景观建筑师田岛高子(音译)以及多位专家学者合作制定的。

改善聚居区中人的生活质量是关键。这一策略的目标是综合解决城市的经济和社会生活问题以及河道的生态。规划采用了各种措施,以改善水体质量,创造更好的野生动物栖息地。人造湿地的引入将调节过量洪水、净化暴雨雨水、促进地下蓄水,并创造更多栖息地。而这一切设想都在合理的预算中。

“今天这条河的水流经国内最肥沃的地区,到了这里却成了从拉巴特流入大西洋的臭泥浆。复兴非斯河不仅有利于我们的城市和聚居区,更将惠及摩洛哥全国。”阿齐扎·沙乌尼解释道。

要城市客厅,不要停车场!

城市尺度的总体规划集中在改善区域水质的问题上,此外设计了3个关键性的地段尺度的干预措施。它们的目标是同时提高水质、恢复污染的场地、在最贫穷的地区创造公共空间,并使经济发展复苏。总之,目的在于让这条河与聚居区重新融为一体——成为城市基础设施的中心生命线。

为了实现这个目标,第一个项目就从老城中心的停车场开始。“为了重现河流,必须消灭它。” 阿齐扎·沙乌尼说道。这个停车场将改造成一个巨大的城市客厅,而用回收皮革制成的顶篷将遮住炎炎烈日。回收的木料将制成公园的长椅。广场中心的暴雨塘既实用又美观——滨水植物将通过给径流供氧使河水恢复名副其实的生命。

游乐场与植物园

第二个主要项目将为聚居区提供游乐场。目前河岸上随意乱堆的垃圾场很快就会洋溢起孩子们的欢笑。迭落的湿地将改善水质和空气质量。回收的皮革和木工的边角料也以同样的方式分别策划作遮阳棚和公园长椅。回收的轮胎完成了这一构想的最后一步——它将用来创造公园的设施。

同时,最后的第三个项目将通过复兴使河水的污染地成为一座公共植物园。由于城市的制革厂已迁到新的工业区,因此就有机会改造老制革厂的场地及其污染的环境。甚至制革用的大缸也将融入这个概

10 非斯聚居区新的公共空间的改善途径/Procedures for new public spaces in the Medina of Fez

The medina of the Moroccan imperial city of Fez is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. However its continuing decline threatens this prestigious title. Remediating the medina's historic lifeline, the heavily polluted and barely visible river Fez, will return to this ancient ailing heart its dynamic soul.

Water is life – it is as simple as that. But when this precious resource is in short supply, as in the desert lands of the Mahgreb, people are especially conscious of its value. "Water is a central part of our culture," Moroccan architect Aziza Chaouni explains. Indeed, such an important role does the symbolic purity of water play in religious life that a well or fountain is a feature of the majority of houses in Fez. For many people who call this north Moroccan city home, there is nothing more beautiful than the sound of running water.

Built on water

Locating the city of Fez in the fertile basin of a large river was no accident. Te "Medinat Fas" was established by Idris I in the year 789 on the right bank. Twenty years later came "al-Aliya" on the left. During the Middle Ages, the two merged into a single lively metropolis which continued to grow rapidly.

Under successive dynasties – the Idrisids, Merinids and Alawids – Fez was the kingdom's capital, ranking alongside Rabat, Marrakech and Meknes as one of four imperial cities. It was not until the French arrived in 1912 that the capital was moved to Rabat, a move that remained after independence was achieved in 1956.

Although undertaken for practical reasons, the effect on Fez was significant – the city lost much of its economic and political status. With many of its educated also drawn away to other centers, its intellectual renown, as the site of the world's oldest continuing university – al-Qarawiyin, established in 859 – also suffered.

The medina – a living entity

It is only four meters wide, the river Fez. But it is the most potent symbol of the decline of this city that today hosts some one million people. What was once a life-giver is now little more than a sewer. Nick-named the "River of Trash", the situation is especially critical in Fez's ancient heart, the medina. Te medina covers some 300 hectares – it is home to madrasas, fondouks, residences, palaces, gardens and fountains. Most lie hidden behind high plain walls, but these inner worlds represent the quintessential Arabo-Andalusian architecture. In 1981, the area was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site, acknowledging its spiritual and cultural values. But this is no museum.

According to Aziza Chaouni, the medina is its own living entity. Tese close-knit streets buzz with energy. Handicraft enterprises maintain an active trade, principally the Chouarra leather tanneries which line the river bank. The original vats for washing, treating, smoothing and coloring the skins are still in use, and are a popular tourist attraction. However, traditional means of working the hides are long gone. Now it is the job of chemicals – heavy metals such as chromium inevitably find their way into the river. Yet even before the river reaches the medina it is heavily polluted. Adding the city heart's quantum of wastewater to the flow is the proverbial straw on this long-suffering camel's back.

Not only is it a toxic cocktail that flows through the medina, the stench is just as nauseating. Residents, fed up with years of inaction, finally念,而作坊本身会翻新为皮革设计中心。

11 Chouarra制革厂/Chouarra tanneries

12 修复设施剖面细部/Detail section of restorer

13 游乐场效果图/View of playground

这个项目是同经济专家一起策划的,目的在于为城市的皮革产业抓住各种新的机遇,并向国际标准看齐。过去关注的只是产业加工,未来在这里建设的设计合作社将提供有附加值的高质量产品。

“我们的目标是创造本地的价值,进而提高本地就业机会。”在这一策略背景中的所有建筑项目都是由工匠利用传统建筑材料和技术实现的——现场烧制的粘土砖以及白石膏。其总体目标是保证能效并实现与现有建筑的完美衔接。

推动前沿

阿齐扎·沙乌尼将这个项目视为毕生之作:“要做的太多了!我们必须列出先后。”为了推进项目、带动更多的社区参与,她组建了非政府组织“拯救非斯河”,形成了大学毕业生、专家和本地商人的网络。

14 复原类型/Rehabilitation typology

15 复原类型效果图/View of rehabilitation typology

“这是一个百废待兴的时机——我们与市政府合作,进行调研,走访居民,明确他们的需求。”

“聚居区中的人是我们不变的中心。我们所做的必须符合他们的利益。”

团队的很多工作都集中在向居民表达总体规划的愿景。“遗憾的是,很多人还看不到这个项目的潜力。”有些人认为应该回到过去的样子,而不是这一策略的目标:创造息息相关的新环境——21世纪的生活聚居区,而不是仅仅作为古迹的博物馆。其他人则开始自问:在人们情愿搬到另一个城市生活区、住进现代而非传统的住宅时,为什么专挑这个聚居区进行复兴。

在这种情况下,阿齐扎·沙乌尼自己则憧憬着卡鲁因大学从城市周边的美式校园迁回聚居区的那一天。“那将是件了不起的事。”她开心地说。

走在钢丝上

这位建筑师坚信该项目证明了这个聚居区能够通过改造,在综合城市发展的框架中保留其文化完整性和经济价值。通过结合21世纪的社会需求与UNESCO保护世界遗产的决心,这个项目具有在各地推广的巨大潜力。许多阿拉伯国家都有相似的问题。它们的聚居区也面临着威胁——公共空间稀缺、基础设施老化、居民外流去追求更现代的生活设施。然而,阿齐扎·沙乌尼很清楚每个城市更新策略的制定都是需要走钢丝的。她以抛弃老传统去追求外国投资的马拉喀什为例。“政府在看到资金流入时就亟不可待地表现出积极的态度,”她解释道,“可是,从长远看,代价会很大。”而生态问题仅仅是其中一个方面。

马拉喀什的教训在非斯制定总体规划时得到了借鉴。“我们希望这个聚居区在21世纪仍是一个富有生气的城市环境,而不是一个博物馆藏品。我们会问自己这样的问题:我们怎样让人留在聚居区中?如何劝说他们不要卖房搬走?”古河复兴,作为这个项目综合方法的核心,一直是解决这种问题的关键——事实上,它使一颗衰竭的心重焕生机。(尚晋 译)took matters into their own hands, covering the river over with concrete five years ago. It is only an occasional glimpse now that one has of opaque water and polluted river banks. "Te Fez is a sewer full of rats," Aziza Chaouni says. "Its condition is unworthy of this jewel of Moroccan history!"

World Heritage status under threat

The decline of the river Fez is symbolic of the decay of the medina as a whole. Seemingly imprisoned in a downward spiral, many buildings are in urgent need of restoration, and what is newly built is often of poor quality. Public space is rare –for 200,000 inhabitants, there are only two small parks. UNESCO is aware of the situation and has made its opinion known – the loss of Fez's World Heritage status is under threat.

Te government took UNESCO at its word and responded to the call. Two water treatment plants are planned for the city's sewage, the river will be reopened and its historic course through the medina reconstructed. Once again it will flow – the dynamic soul to Fez's ancient heart. It is around Aziza Chaouni that a team has been established to put this comprehensive rehabilitation plan into action. Having studied in the United States, the architect returned to the city of her birth –"I wanted to work on this project because I love my hometown."

Focus on the people

Te revitalization plan for the river, as well as a linked strategy of urban renewal, was developed in conjunction with town planner and landscape architect Takako Tajima and a variety of specialists and academics.

Improving life quality for people in the medina was the focus. Te strategy aims to comprehensively address the economic and social life of the city together with the ecology of the river. Various measures are planned in order to improve water quality and thereby enhance wildlife habitats. The introduction of constructed wetlands will manage excess floodwater, clean storm water, promote groundwater recharge and encourage habitat creation. Yet all this is envisaged within a modest budget.

"Today the waters of the river run through the most fertile areas of the country only to arrive as a stinking soup entering the Atlantic at Rabat. Resuscitating the river Fez not only profits our city and its medina, but the whole of Morocco," explains Aziza Chaouni.

Living room, not car park!

Whilst the city-scale master plan focuses on improving regional water quality, three critical sitescale interventions have been conceived. Tey aim, concurrently, to enhance water quality, remediate contaminated sites, create public spaces in the poorest areas, and revitalize economic development. Above all, the intention is to reintegrate the river into the medina – as the central lifeline of the city's urban infrastructure.

To achieve this, the first project targets the car park in the heart of the old town. "For the river to reappear, this must disappear," Aziza Chaouni says. Te car park will be turned into a huge living room, shaded from the sun's relentless heat by a canopy of recycled leather. Recycled wood is intended for park benches. A storm water basin at the plaza's center will be both functional and aesthetic –riparian plants will literally resuscitate the river by oxygenating run-off water.

Playground and botanical garden

Te second major project focuses on bringing a playground to the medina. Where the river bank now hosts an informal waste dump, a garden of children's voices will soon be heard. Terraced wetlands will enhance water and air quality. Recycled leather and carpenters' off-cuts are similarly foreseen as shade protection and park benches respectively. Recycled tires complete the picture – they will be used in the creation of the park equipment itself.

Meanwhile, the last of the three projects focuses on revitalizing one of the main perpetrators of river pollution as a public botanic garden. With the city's tanneries moved to a new industrial quarter, the opportunity exists to transform the old tanneries site and its contaminated surrounds. Even the tanning vats will be integrated into the concept, while the workshop buildings themselves will be renovated as a Center for Leather Design.

Developed together with economic specialists, this project aims to capture new opportunities for the city's leather industry, and align with international standards. Where previously the focus was only on industrial processing, in future design cooperatives offering value-added high-quality goods will be developed on site.

"Our aim is local value creation, thus enhancing local employment opportunities." All building projects in the context of the strategy are implemented by artisans using traditional building materials and techniques – clay bricks, fired onsite, as well as white plaster. Energy efficiency and a seamless aesthetic with existing structures is the overall intent.

Pushing boundaries

Aziza Chaouni sees this project as a life's work –"there is so much to do! We must prioritize." To advance the projects and engender more community involvement, she has formed an NGO "Sauvons Oued Fez" (Save the Fez River), a network of graduates, specialists and local business-people.

"It is a busy time – we work with the city authorities, we conduct investigations, interview residents, clarify their needs.

Always the people of the medina are our focus. What we do must be in their interests."

Much of the team's work is concentrated on communicating the master plan's vision to residents. "Unfortunately many cannot yet see the potential in the project." Some are convinced things should return to the way they were, earlier, rather than the strategy's goal which is to create something new yet still relevant – a living medina for the 21st century, not a museum relegated to antiquity. Others ask themselves why the medina should be earmarked for revitalization when people would rather move to another city quarter and live in modern rather than traditional housing.

Meanwhile, Aziza Chaouni herself looks forward to the day when the al-Qarawiyin University could return to the medina from its American-style campus on the outskirts of the city. "Tat would be great," she grins.

Walking a tightrope

The architect is convinced this project demonstrates that the medina can be adapted to retain both its cultural integrity and economic value within a framework of integrated urban development. By meshing 21st century social needs with UNESCO's dedication to preserving world inheritance, the project has significant potential to be replicated elsewhere. Many Arab countries are experiencing similar problems. Teir medinas are also in crisis – too little public space, decaying infrastructure, residents leaving in search of more modern amenities. However, Aziza Chaouni is conscious that the development of each and every urban renewal strategy entails walking a tightrope. She cites Marrakech as an example where old traditions have been lost in the desire for foreign investment. "Authorities cannot help but be positive in the first instance when they see money flowing in," she explains. "However, in the long-run, there is a high price to be paid." Not least of which is ecological.

Te lessons of Marrakech have been studied by Fez in the development of its master plan. "We want the medina to still be a living urban environment in the 21st century, not a museum artifact. We ask ourselves questions like: How can we keep people in the medina? Encourage them not to sell up and move out?" Revitalizing the river, the core of the project's comprehensive approach, has been key to answering such questions – in truth, it returns to an ailing heart its dynamic soul.

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