茶，永远有其苦涩的一面

2011-11-16蔡荣章

茶博览 2011年4期

■蔡荣章

茶，永远有其苦涩的一面

■蔡荣章

茶的色、香、味、形受到很多人的谈论，茶叶科技人士更是以化学的方式分析得非常透彻。我们曾从形象的差异，藉助各种图像来比较各类茶的不同风格；在此，我们要从人文面，提出茶叶先天就具有的一种特殊性格，那就是它的苦涩味①。另外还有一种独特性格是要另外找时间说的「空寂」境界。

喝茶，一般人喜欢它的香、喜欢它的甘②、喜欢不同茶叶的独特风味；如果说到苦，都说它是先苦后甘，以苦味消退后，甘味显露的现象激励人们辛勤工作以求得甜美的成果。但是苦、涩一直是茶叶很重要的成分与滋味，茶的各种香、味与特质都建构在这个基础之上，只是有些茶因为品种、制法的关系，苦味或涩感会显得特别的重或特别的轻。也就是这样的香、味结构，茶汤让人喝来不觉得腻，而且可以持续一辈子甚至随着年岁的增长，更加深刻体会它的风骨。

茶的香是光彩、艷丽的，茶的甘是诱惑迷人的，但是自古人们就未曾将茶归属于华丽的饮料，因为苦涩的味道与其进入体内以后产生的效应将亮丽的一面压制了下来，而且发挥了统合的力量，使得茶自古就被认定为精俭③、空寂④、清和⑤之物。这个苦、涩基调尚能相互激荡，扩大其能量至千万倍，达到为「情」不惜摧毁自己的地步，这个情可能是自己的理念，可能是自身的境界。日本茶人⑥千利休不就为了坚持自己的茶道思想而被迫切腹自杀，紧跟着还有数位具有同样理念的茶人以同样的方式以身相殉。中国唐朝七碗茶诗的作者卢仝也因太有自己的主张而在一次政争中被杀。饮茶好像不曾被列为「饮酒作乐」的范畴，茶人们喝得很冷静、喝得很有个性，也喝得很勇敢。

Much of the colour, aroma, taste and appearance of tea have been discussed. Technology has certainly contributed to the scientific study and analysis of this world-loved beverage. We have compared the differences among tea leaves with the help of images. Now, we will be focusing on one of its intrinsic properties, bitterness and astringency①. We would also be looking into another unique ‘character’ of tea, namely the state of emptiness and solitude, in another chapter.

What captivates tea drinkers the world over could be its aroma, mellow sweetness ②and the unique flavour each type of tealeaves offers. Bitterness, in this case, has always taken a back seat－more often than not, it is merely described as what comes ‘before mellow sweetness sets in’. It is, therefore, no surprise that tea is also compared to the hardship before one enjoys the fruit of labour.

Bitterness and astringency are, in actual fact, key properties and distinct tastes of tea. The source of aroma, taste and characteristics of tea can all be traced to its intrinsic bitterness and astringency. As to the bitterness and astringencybeing pronounced or subtle, it is all in the species and processing methods. Such aroma and flavour built on tea’s intrinsic bitterness and astringency explain the beverage’s refreshing appeal. Fashion comes and goes; tea, however, is a life-long affair－the more you get to know it, the more you will be hooked by its uniqueness.

The aroma of tea is exquisite and fascinating, the sweetness alluring. And yet, tea has never been taken as a drink for glamorous occasions, for the simple reason that its bitterness and astringency tones it down, balancing what may have made it emotionally overpowering. With the note of bitterness and astringency, tea is tamed to a beverage demonstrating the qualities of Conviction and Simplicity③, purity and harmony④, and emptiness and solitude.⑤ Do not belittle this seemingly subdued base note; as it goes, this bitterness and astringency may generate an unending chain of reaction, resulting in tremendous force and impact. The preoccupation could become so intense that it may lead to self-destruction, be it out of one’s conviction or circumstances. Sen no Rikyu,Tea Guru⑥ of Japan, for example, was ordered to end his life with ritual suicide, or seppuku, out of his strong belief in the ideologies of tea ceremony. Several advocates of such ideologies after him followed the same sad path. Meanwhile, Tang poet Lu Tong suffered similar fate when his conviction was proved too strong for some people’s liking; he was killed in a political tussle. It seems that tea has never been a‘pleasure’ drink-tea is always sipped with calmness, with style and at times, with courage.