趵突泉的欣赏
2024-09-27老舍
千佛山、大明湖和趵突泉,是济南的三大名胜。现在单讲趵突泉。
在西门外的桥上,便看见一溪活水,清浅,鲜洁,由南向北地流着。这就是由趵突泉流出来的。设若没有这泉,济南定会丢失了一半的美。但是泉的所在地并不是我们理想中的一个美景。这又是个中国人的征服自然的办法,那就是说,凡是自然的恩赐交到中国人手里就会把它弄得丑陋不堪。这块地方已经成了个市场。南门外是一片喊声,几阵臭气,从卖大碗面条与肉包子的棚子里出来。进了门有个小院,差不多是四方的。这里,“一毛钱四块”和“两毛钱一双”的喊声,与外面的“吃来”连成一片。一座假山,奇丑;穿过山洞,接连不断的棚子与地摊,东洋布,东洋瓷,东洋玩具,东洋……加劲地表示着中国人怎样热烈地“不”抵制劣货。这里很不易走过去,乡下人一群跟着一群地来,把路塞住。他们没有例外地全买一件东西还三次价,走开又回来摸索四五次。小脚妇女更了不得,你往左躲,她往左扭;你往右躲,她往右扭,反正不许你痛快地过去。
到了池边,北岸上一座神殿,南西东三面全是唱鼓书的茶棚,唱的多半是梨花大鼓,一声“哟”要拉长几分钟,猛听颇像产科医院的病室。除了茶棚还是日货摊子,说点别的吧!
泉太好了。泉池差不多见方,三个泉口偏西,北边便是条小溪流向西门去。看那三个大泉,一年四季,昼夜不停,老那么翻滚。你立定呆呆地看三分钟,你便觉出自然的伟大,使你不敢再正眼去看。永远那么纯洁,永远那么活泼,永远那么鲜明,冒,冒,冒,永不疲乏,永不退缩,只是自然有这样的力量!冬天更好,泉上起了一片热气,白而轻软,在深绿的长的水藻上飘荡着,使你不由得想起一种似乎神秘的境界。
池边还有小泉呢:有的像大鱼吐水,极轻快地上来一串小泡;有的像一串明珠,走到中途又歪下去,真像一串珍珠在水里斜放着;有的半天才上来一个泡,大,扁一点,慢慢地,有姿态地,摇动上来;碎了;看,又来了一个!有的好几串小碎珠一齐挤上来,像一朵攒整齐的珠花,雪白;有的……这比那大泉还更有味。
新近为增加河水的水量,又下了六根铁管,做成六个泉眼,水流得也很旺,但是我还是爱那原来的三个。
看完了泉,再往北走,经过一些货摊,便出了北门。
前年冬天一把大火把泉池南边的棚子都烧了。有机会改造了!造成一个公园,各处安着喷水管!东边做个游泳池!有许多人这样盼望。可是,席棚又搭好了,渐次改成了木板棚;乡下人只知道趵突泉,把摊子移到“商场”去(就离趵突泉几步)买卖就受损失了,于是“商场”四大皆空,还叫趵突泉作日货销售场。也许有道理。
Thousand Buddha Mountain, Daming Lake, and Baotu Spring are the renowned trio of scenic wonders in Jinan. Allow me to focus on Baotu Spring this time.
Upon the bridge beyond the West Gate, one encounters a rivulet of vibrant water, clear and pristine, gracefully flowing from south to north. This is the lifeblood that streams forth from Baotu Spring. Without this spring, Jinan would surely be deprived of half its beauty. However, the locale of the spring does not conform to our idealized visions of natural splendor. This illustrates a Chinese approach to the conquest of nature—alas, when nature’s bounty falls into Chinese hands, it often suffers a transformation into an unsightly state. The area surrounding this natural treasure has, regrettably, been transformed into a bustling marketplace.
The springs are a marvel to behold. The pool, nearly square in shape, hosts three springs to its western edge, with a slender stream flows northward, meandering towards the West Gate. Observe these three grand springs, ceaselessly bubbling day and night throughout the seasons. If you stand transfixed for but three minutes, the profound majesty of nature will assail your senses, leaving you in awe. Ever pure, ever vibrant, ever luminous, they bubble, bubble, bubble, with an indefatigable spirit, an unyielding force—such is the power of nature! In winter, the scene is further enchanted as a mist of steam rises from the spring, white and delicate, drifting above the verdant, lengthy algae, evoking a sense of an almost mystical realm.
By the pond, there are small springs: some mimic a giant fish exhaling water, effortlessly releasing a string of bubbles; some resemble a strand of pearls, midway bending and descending, truly akin to a diagonal string of pearls submerged; some take half the day to produce a single bubble, large and slightly flattened, ascending slowly and gracefully, only to burst; behold, another arises! Some clusters of delicate bubbles surge together, like a neatly arranged pearl blossom, snow-white; and some... These small springs offer even more charm than the grand one.