餐桌上的浙江风情Flavors of Zhejiang

赵荣光

“上有天堂，下有苏杭” 这句古话已流传逾千年。杭州是贯通南北大运河的南方起点，又是五代十国（907 ～960）时吴越国（907 ～ 978）和南宋（1127 ～ 1279）的首都。人们称其为“人间天堂”，不仅仅是因为它风景如画、文物繁多、交通便利，更是因为其物产丰富、文化发达、世风温馨，这些都是最宜人居住的自然与社会要素。

The saying “Above， there is heaven; below， thereare Suzhou and Hangzhou” has endured for over amillennium. As the southern gateway of the GrandCanal that connects north and south China， Hangzhouserved as the capital of the Wuyue Kingdom （907—978）during the Five Dynasties and Ten Kingdoms period（907—960）， and later as the capital of the SouthernSong Dynasty （1127—1279）. Renowned as the “Paradiseon Earth，” Hangzhou boasts not only breathtaking landscapes， abundant cultural heritage， andconvenient transportation， but also rich resources，a thriving culture， and a warm social environment，making it an ideal place for living.

基于食学（Food Studies）历史文献、著者地籍统计和食事风土研究，我们注意到13世纪以后中国食学重心在“下江”的事实。“下江”是历史上长江下游地区（涵盖浙江、江苏、安徽）的简称，也就是饮食文化区域理论中的“长江下游地区饮食文化圈”的地域涵盖。下江地区的经济、文化实力至少自魏晋时期起就决定着全国的态势，大运河则将其影响充分发挥，这样的影响力一直持续至近现代。下江地区社会饮食生活的丰富繁荣是全方位、涵盖全社会的，不仅让浙江人富足、幸福，还造福全国。

Based on historical records， author distribution，and cultural customs of Food Studies， we discerna culinary shift towards the Lower Yangtzeregion post-13th century. The “Lower Yangtze”encompasses the lower basin of the Yangtze River，including Zhejiang， Jiangsu， and Anhui provinces.This area， which forms the nucleus of the “LowerYangtze Culinary Circle” in culinary geography， haswielded profound economic and cultural influencesince the Wei and Jin dynasties. The Grand Canalfurther augmented this influence all the way tocontemporary times. The opulent and diverseculinary landscape of the Lower Yangtze regionpermeates all strata of society， fostering prosperityand contentment not only among Zhejiangspopulace but also enriching the entire country.

嘉兴是高产粮仓，《新唐书 · 地理志》中有很生动的记载。唐代以来的中国人“南稻北麦”的食料基本格局，频频见于历史记载。中国人习惯说的“吃饭”一词，可以直白地理解为吃一碗碗白米饭。距今约7 000—5 000年前，浙江余姚河姆渡新石器时代遗址上的先民就是以稻米为主食的。中国人吃粽子的历史不下3 000年，最初的粽子是用黄河流域产的黄色的糯米——黍——为原料的，宋代以后逐渐成为以白色的糯米——糯稻——包裹箬叶蒸制而成，也就是今天人们熟悉喜爱的中国粽子形态。粽子是中华民族祖先创造的第一种艺术性特型食品，既是全中国人的传统美食，也是浙江人的日常喜爱。如今，嘉兴五芳斋的粽子更是驰名天下。

Jiaxing is known as Zhejiangs granary， adesignation vividly documented in the New Book ofTang， Geography. Since the Tang Dynasty， Chinesedining habits have been characterized by rice in thesouth and wheat in the north， a pattern frequentlyreferenced in historical records. The term “eating，”

commonly used by Chinese， simply refers toconsuming bowls of white rice. Approximately 7，000to 5，000 years ago， ancestors at the Hemudu NeolithicSite in Yuyao， Zhejiang， primarily relied on rice astheir staple food. The tradition of eating zongzi （stickyrice dumplings） dates back over 3，000 years. Initially，zongzi were made from millet， a type of yellowglutinous rice sourced from the Yellow River basin.However， during the Song Dynasty， they graduallyevolved into the familiar white glutinous rice wrappedin reed leaves and steamed， which is the beloved formof Chinese zongzi today. Zongzi stand as one of theearliest culinary specialties created by the Chineseancestors， symbolizing not only a traditional delicacyfor all Chinese but also a daily favorite for the peopleof Zhejiang. Today， the zongzi sold under the brandname “Wu Fang Zhai” in Jiaxing enjoys worldwiderenown.

糯稻同时是酿酒的重要原料。考古研究证明，中国人的饮酒史有8 000年之久，以谷物为原料酿造的酒，中国称之为“黄酒”。历史文献记载，浙江糯米酒有3 000年的历史。

Glutinous rice is also a vital ingredient in liquorproduction. Archaeological evidence indicates thatthe Chinese have been enjoying alcoholic beveragesfor over 8，000 years. In China， liquor made fromgrains is commonly referred to as “yellow wine.”Historical documents trace the history of Zhejiangsglutinous rice wine back 3，000 years.

浙江的历史文化名城绍兴是越国（ 公元前2032年～公元前222年）的都城，素有“文物之邦，鱼米之乡”之称。绍兴以“三缸文化”（酒缸、酱缸、染缸）著称于世，第一缸就是酒缸。绍兴黄酒，又称“绍兴老酒”“绍兴酒”“老绍”，或简称“绍”，凡档次宴会必有绍酒。数百年来，绍酒成了中国黄酒的代名词，在许多国家都有受众。黄酒陈贮谓之“老”，老会生香，绍兴老酒，越陈越香。绍兴酒呈琥珀色，透明澄澈，赏心悦目，品饮则馥香浓郁。

Shaoxing， a historically and culturally significantcity in Zhejiang， once served as the capital of theYue Kingdom （2032 BC—222 BC）. Renowned asthe “land of cultural relics and the home of rice andfish，” Shaoxing is celebrated for its “Three CrockCulture” （wine crock， sauce crock， dye crock）， withthe wine crock holding particular prominence.Known by various names such as “Shaoxing agedwine，” “Shaoxing wine，” “Aged Shao，” or simply “Shao，”Shaoxing yellow wine is an indispensable element ofupscale banquets. For centuries， Shaoxing wine hasbeen synonymous with Chinese rice wine， attractingenthusiasts from around the world. The aging processimbues the wine with a pronounced aroma over time.The older the wine gets， the more fragrant it becomes.With its amber hue and crystal-clear clarity， Shaoxingwine not only captivates the eye but also delights thepalate with its rich and aromatic flavor.

绍兴的第二缸是酱缸。酱缸是以大豆为基本原料发酵而成的咸味调味品，也就是“中华酱”。大豆， 因呈金黄色又被称为“黄豆”，原产地是中国。中国也是酱的最早发明国，俗语说：“百家酱，百家味”，家家户户一日三餐都离不开酱。有了酱，自然就有了“酱清”或“清酱”（《齐民要术》卷第八），也就是今天东方调味料代表“酱油”的前身。19 ～ 20世纪之交，遍布中国大中小城镇的酱园几乎都是绍兴人创办的。

In Shaoxing， the second-best well-known drinkis a salty seasoning known as “Chinese sauce” madefrom fermented soybeans. Soybeans， often referredto as yellow beans because of their golden hue， havetheir origins in China. China holds the distinction ofbeing the earliest innovator of sauces， as the popularsaying goes： “A hundred families， a hundred flavors，”underscoring the indispensable role of sauces in dailymeals. It was from this tradition that “base sauce”or “sauce base” emerged （Qimin Yaoshu， volume 8），serving as the precursor to the quintessential orientalseasoning we know today as soy sauce. At the turn ofthe 20th century， soy sauce factories sprang up in citiesand towns across China， with a significant numberbeing established by individuals from Shaoxing.

中国同时是茶的故乡，浙江是历史上的产茶和饮茶大省。浙江龙井茶素以色翠、形美、香郁、味醇享誉国内外，榜列“中国十大名茶”之首。杭州的西湖闻名世界，西湖龙井春茶更为品茶人津津乐道。因为龙井茶的美名和杭州茶的优质，也因为浙江人饮茶文化的优雅醇厚风习，杭州有了“中国茶都”的美誉，所谓“茶为国饮，杭为茶都”。

China， as the birthplace of tea， boasts a richhistory of tea production and consumption， withZhejiang playing a prominent role in this tradition.Zhejiangs Longjing tea， famous for its emerald hue，graceful appearance， fragrant aroma， and smooth taste， tops the “Ten Famous Teas of China.” Just asthe West Lake in Hangzhou is known worldwide，Longjing spring tea is cherished by tea connoisseurs.Thanks to the fame of Longjing tea and theexceptional quality of Hangzhou tea， combined withZhejiangs refined tea culture， Hangzhou rightfullyearns the title of “Chinas Tea Capital.” As the sayinggoes， “Tea is Chinas national drink， and Hangzhou isits tea capital.”

餐桌上有了珍珠般白粲粲、甘甜馨香的米饭，有了未饮醉眼、既饮醉心的绍兴黄酒，有了赏心悦目、爽口清心的龙井茶，当然还应当有美味佳肴。浙江菜品名不计其数，以四季时鲜、山珍海错而著名。油焖春笋、雪菜大汤黄鱼，可谓浙江菜中最具代表性的菜品。笋是“蔬菜之王”，明清之际的美食家李渔（1611 ～ 1680）就对笋极尽赞美之词。黄鱼是东海特产，味极鲜美，用雪里蕻（hóng）腌煮汤，质、色、香、味都达到中华菜的最高境界。有“东方的布里亚 · 萨瓦兰”之称的中华食圣袁枚（1716 ～ 1798）就是杭州人，他的《随园食单》被称为中国古代“食经”，200多年来印行无数次，同时还有英、法、德、日、意、韩等多种译本。书中记载了434种经典食品，绝大部分仍然可以在现今的大众餐桌上见到，其中就有几十种浙江食品。浙江菜、杭州味，在这位伟大的美食家心里留下了深刻美好的记忆。

Now that we have the fragrant white rice， thealluring scent of Shaoxing yellow wine， and theinvigorating flavor of Longjing tea at the table， nomeal is complete without delectable dishes. Zhejiangcuisine boasts an array of dishes celebrated for theirseasonal freshness and the bounty of mountain and seatreasures. Among them， “Oil-Braised Spring BambooShoots” and “Yellow Croaker Soup with PreservedMustard Greens” are quintessential examples ofZhejiang culinary artistry. Bamboo shoots， reveredas the “king of vegetables，” earned praise fromgastronome Li Yu （1611—1680） during the transitionfrom the Ming to the Qing dynasties. Yellow croaker，fished from the East China Sea， is best served whensimmered in soup with preserved mustard greens，epitomizing the pinnacle of Chinese cuisine in terms oftexture， aroma， and taste. Hangzhou native Yuan Mei（1716—1798）， known as the “Oriental Jean Anthelme Brillat-Savarin，” authored Recipes from the Garden ofContentment， revered as an ancient Chinese culinarymasterpiece. Reprinted numerous times over the pasttwo centuries and translated into various languages，including English， French， German， Japanese， Italian，and Korean， this work catalogs 434 classic dishes，many of which still grace dining tables today， includingdozens of Zhejiang specialties. Zhejiang cuisine， with itsdistinctive Hangzhou flair， leaves a lasting and delightfulimpression on the palate of this discerning gourmet.

晋代文学家张翰（生卒年不详）因为菰菜、莼羹、鲈鱼脍的美味之恋，干脆连官也不当，从洛阳回到了江南的家乡。一生宦海颠簸不如意的宋代文学家苏轼（1037 ～ 1101），曾两度任职杭州，在那里度过了他人生中最快乐的时光。他主持疏浚西湖工程，留下了“苏堤”美景，也留下了“东坡肉”佳话，这在位于西湖东南畔的中国杭帮菜博物馆里有生动的场景展现，吸引着络绎不绝的海内外游客。赞美浙江的诗文也可谓浩如烟海。唐代大诗人白居易（772 ～ 846）的“江南忆，最忆是杭州”（《忆江南三首 · 其二》），道出了历史上无数人的心声，也成为今日浙江人的欣慰和无数世人的向往。

During the Jin Dynasty， Zhang Han， a scholar whose birth and death dates remainunknown， became so captivated by the exquisite flavors of water bamboo， water shieldsoup， and braised bass that he relinquished his official post and returned to his hometownin Jiangnan from Luoyang. Su Shi （1037—1101）， a scholar of the Song Dynasty， amidst thevicissitudes of officialdom， found his utmost joy during his two tenures in Hangzhou. It wasthere that he supervised the dredging of the West Lake， leaving behind the picturesque “SuCauseway” and the legendary “Dongpo Pork.” These narratives are vividly showcased today inthe Chinese Hangzhou Cuisine Museum on the southeastern shore of the West Lake， drawinginnumerable Chinese and international visitors. Praise for the beauty of Zhejiang in poetry andprose stretches as boundless as the sea. The great poet of the Tang Dynasty， Bai Juyi （772—846），wrote in his poem “Dreaming of Jiangnan， it is Hangzhou I adore.” （“Recollections of Jiangnan，Poem Two”）. This sentiment， resonating with countless individuals throughout history， servesas a source of solace for the people of Zhejiang and a cherished dream for countless othersworldwide.