宋楼火烧迎风舞

韦婧

德州夏津县历史悠久、文化燦烂，因“齐晋会盟之要津”而得名。上百年来，夏津有一句流行语：“宋楼火烧迎风舞，小磨香油佳天下。”其中迎风而舞的宋楼火烧，又被称为“灯笼火烧”“风筝火烧”，个个白白胖胖、通透酥脆，可谓山东火烧中的颜值担当。

宋楼火烧创制于清朝中叶，其层薄如纸，香醇可口，被作为贡品进献给宫廷，深受皇家青睐。据传说，古时曾有一人挑一担火烧去赶集，中途忽遇大风，一担火烧被刮得漫天飞舞，此人左扑右扑，总算捂住两个火烧未被大风吹走，足见宋楼火烧之轻。

要做出轻簿如纸张的宋楼火烧，考验的是师傅的功力。从一个面团变成一只“灯笼”状的火烧，要经过十多道工序。火烧采用精选面粉和少量豆粉混合，经手揉、杠子压充分增加面团柔韧性，每个七钱重的面剂子擀成面皮，经过横竖折六层，层层刷香油，再经锅烙火烤而膨为“七寸高六寸腰”“张开嘴像鲶鱼嘴”且层层酥脆的“气火烧”。宋楼火烧因其严格的技术要求，至今仍处于手工制作阶段，未实现机械化生产，由一辈辈手工匠人传承下来，其技艺更加珍贵难得。

宋楼火烧皮酥、瓤香，外表看似硬脆，但用开水一浸，立即软成煮熟的面片，不仅食用方便，而且滑腻可口，易于消化。若用热气蒸软后切成细丝，加豆芽、白菜、精肉或鸡蛋焖烩，吃起来更是柔软松散，大开胃口，别具风味。

因可储存时间长、物美价廉、百变吃法，宋楼火烧逐渐在当地民间广泛食用。曾经，一串宋楼火烧、几包红糖、一篮子鸡蛋，是每一位夏津人都熟悉的看望产妇的“标配”礼物。因“火烧”寓有“火爆”之意，宋楼火烧不仅是当地群众探亲馈友的传统礼品，更是恭贺乔迁、祝寿必不可少的礼物。

经过几代人的传承，宋楼火烧以薄、脆、酥、香从山东火烧美食门类中脱颖而出，成为夏津人生活中的小确幸。对于很多夏津人，尤其是宋楼镇的人而言，宋楼火烧是家乡的一个符号，火烧吃进肚里，家乡也就记在了心里。

编辑/刁艳杰

Dezhous Xiajin County has a long history and splendid culture. It got the name Xiajin because of “holding a key position for the alliance between Qi and Jin”. For centuries， there has been a popular saying in Xiajin： “Songlou huoshao dances in the wind； ground sesame oil tops the world.” Songlou huoshao is also known as “lantern huoshao” and“kite huoshao”. It is white， plump and crisp， and can be counted as an attractive representative of Shandong huoshao.

Invented in the mid-Qing Dynasty， the mellow and delicious Songlou huoshao with paper-thin layers was an imperial tribute， and popular with the royal family. According to legend， when a man carried a load of huoshao to a fair， a gale suddenly blew， making the huoshao dance in the air. The man managed to retain two pieces of huoshao， and smiled， “The two are enough to cover my cost！” This shows the light weight of Songlou huoshao.

Songlou huoshao which has a crisp crust and fragrant stuffing， appears brittle， but can soften into cooked bread pieces after being soaked in boiling water. It is not only convenient for eating， but also smooth， delicious and easily digestible. If it is shredded after being softened in steam， and added with bean sprouts， cabbage， lean meat or eggs for braising， it tastes fluffy， appetizing and distinctive.

Due to its long storage time， excellent quality， reasonable price， various ways of eating， Songlou huoshao has been widely eaten in the local folk society. “Huoshao” implies“boom”， so Songlou huoshao is not only a traditional gift for the local people to visit friends and relatives， but also an essential gift for congratulations on new homes and birthdays.

For the people of Xiajin， especially of Songlou Town， Songlou huoshao is a symbol of their hometown. Eating huoshao symbolizes keeping their hometown in mind.