The Return of Super-thin Models:A Worrying Trend瘦模重现 令人心忧

吴晓雷/译

At a time when anxieties about body image are rife1， the idealisation of skinniness is too dangerous to leave to the whims of the fashion industry.

在人们普遍为身体形象焦虑的时代，将骨感奉为理想形象危害太大，绝不能任由时尚界心血来潮。

Reports from the high-profile catwalk shows have sent a shiver through the bones of the body positivity movement2. Wafer-thin bodies appear to be back in vogue， in costumes that both hide little and depend on having little to hide. The most striking example was at Paris fashion week， where Bella Hadid， a model for the French designers Coperni， stood almost naked for nine minutes while a dress was sprayed on to her body.

从备受瞩目的几大T台时装秀传来的消息，好似彻骨寒风，吹透了“身体自爱运动”。瘦削如纸的模特穿着遮不住多少身体、也没多少身体可遮的时装，她们的身材似乎再度流行起来。巴黎时装周上贝拉·哈迪德的亮相令人最为印象深刻。这位为法国时尚品牌“科佩尼”走秀的模特，几乎全裸地在台上站了九分钟，由技术人员为她喷涂出一身连衣裙。

It’s in the nature of the fashion industry to be fickle， and to reflect idealised images that have little to do with the day-to-day reality of people. You only have to look back at the work of， say， Zandra Rhodes to appreciate that catwalk designs are artworks： the veteran British designer has even set up her own museum in London to celebrate this fact.

变幻不定是时尚界的天性，而且这个行业本来就要展现和人们日常生活大相径庭的理想形象。你只要回顾一下赞德拉·罗兹的作品，就能理解T台时装设计属于艺术品。为了彰显这一事实，这位资深的英国设计师甚至在伦敦建造了她自己的艺术馆。

However， the ideal of the ultra-thin model has come to be connected over the years with all sorts of damaging behaviours， from fat-shaming to eating disorders among young men and women. It is particularly worrying to hear the term “heroin chic3”， three decades after Kate Moss strutted it4 down the catwalk.

然而，骨感模特的理想形象多年来已经和肥胖羞辱、青年男女饮食紊乱等种种有害行为联系在了一起。距离凯特·莫斯在T台上炫耀自己的骨感已经30年了，再次听到“海洛因时尚”这个词，格外令人心忧。

Though Ms Moss has distanced herself from the term， telling Radio 4’s Desert Island Discs that she was just naturally thin， one must not forget its association with others who were not so lucky， such as the American supermodel Gia Carangi， whose life， and premature death at the age of 26， were commemor-ated in a 1998 film starring Angelina Jolie.

在英國广播公司第四电台的《荒岛唱片》栏目中，莫斯女士说自己天生瘦削，撇清了自己与“海洛因时尚”的关系，然而，我们不要忘了，其他和这个词紧紧联系在一起的人并没有那么幸运，比如26岁就香消玉殒的吉雅·卡兰芝。1998年上映的一部由安吉莉娜·朱莉主演的电影，就是用来纪念这位早逝美国超模的一生。

The body positivity movement itself has come in for some criticism for condoning obesity and encouraging a different range of eating disorders， but in the fashion industry it has largely meant embracing models who are simply bigger than average.

因对肥胖和各种不同的饮食失调行为有纵容、鼓动之嫌，“身体自爱运动”本身也受到了一些批评。然而，这一运动在时尚界主要意味着接纳体型比普通模特更大的模特。

Plus-size—or “curve”—models are not going away， according to analysts for the search engine Tagwalk， and one of their number， the American Paloma Elsesser， is among the world’s most sought-after catwalk stars. Yet moves by social media companies such as Instagram and TikTok to protect users from the pursuit of #thinspo （thin inspiration5） underline that this is no time for complacency.

時尚搜索引擎Tagwalk的分析员称，大码——或者说“曲线分明”的——模特并未消失，美国大码模特帕洛马·埃尔塞瑟还是全球最受人追捧的T台明星之一。然而，诸如Instagram和TikTok这样的社交媒体平台，还是纷纷推出举措，保护其用户免受“励瘦”话题影响。这就是在向我们强调，想要沾沾自喜，还为时尚早。

In 2017 real progress was made when two leading fashion conglomerates banned size zero models. France had recently followed Italy， Spain and Israel in legislating against the use of any who were “unrealistically thin”. The UK has yet to follow suit， leaving it to the Advertising Standards Authority to ban advertisements featuring unhealthily thin models in response to public complaints. This is shutting the gate after the cat has walked.

到了2017年，两大时装巨头弃用零码模特，这才算实质上的进展。最近，继意大利、西班牙和以色列之后，法国也立法禁止雇用“过分瘦削”的模特。英国虽未跟进，不过面对公众的抱怨，英国广告标准局也下了禁令，不得用病态瘦弱的模特拍摄广告。这也算是亡羊补牢。

In 2021， the parliamentary women and equalities committee published a damning report on the government’s approach to eating disorders and body image. They were responding to a submission by academics involved in a long-term research project in north-east England， whose recommendations included legislation on a minimum body mass index6 for models. It is an issue too important to leave to the whims of fashion.

2021年，为回应一些学者提交的建议，英国议会的妇女与平等委员会发布了一份报告，言辞激烈地谴责了政府在饮食紊乱和身体形象问题上的态度。这些学者在英格兰东北部进行了一项长期研究，他们的建议包括立法规定模特的最低体重指数。兹事体大，不可任凭时尚界左右风向。

（译者为“《英语世界》杯”翻译大赛获奖者）

1 rife（坏事）盛行的，普遍的。  2 body positivity movement身体自爱运动，最早兴起于20世纪90年代的美国，旨在鼓励人们对自己的身体持肯定和接受的态度。

3 heroin chic海洛因时尚，20世纪90年代早期流行的时尚风格，以颓废、病态为美，以瘦削的身材和苍白的肤色为特征。  4 strut sth（尤指在跳舞或表演时）卖弄自己那一套；露一手。

5 thin inspiration励瘦，即励志瘦身，一项通过社交媒体发起的减肥运动，主要在女性群体中流行。  6 body mass index体重指数（BMI），衡量人体肥胖程度的一个指标，用体重（kg）除以身高（m）平方得出的数值。