奥运制服，冬奥会场一道靓丽的风景线

希望我们的技术官员，工作人员和志愿者能够穿上这些精心设计的衣服，带着我们对他们深深爱意，各尽其职，精神饱满地投入工作。希望2022年冬奥会的举办，可以使中国的冰雪事业日益壮大，真正带动更多老百姓去投身到冰雪运动中去。

I hope that the technical officials， staff and volunteers who wear these well-designed uniforms， with our deep love for them， will do their duty and be full of spirit to work.

北京2022年冬奥会开幕倒计时百天之际，2022年北京冬奥会与冬残奥会系列制服在京隆重发布。此次发布的冬奥制服装备供奥运会工作人员、技术官员及志愿者穿着使用，包含服装、鞋品、配件三类。制服在外观上融合了中国传统山水画与冬奥会核心图形，这些充满了中国传统文化的韵味和美感；在功能上满足了奥运会工作人员在各种工作环境下的需求，集美观、科技、绿色为一体，最终从600多套设计作品中脱颖而出。作为2008年北京奥运会及残奥会系列制服的设计师，北京服装学院教授贺阳携其团队再度携手2022年冬奥，China Textile记者带您一起来听奥运服装设计背后的故事。

China Textile：这届奥运服装的设计理念是什么？您是如何在服装中体现的？

贺阳：奥运制服的设计十分不容易，既要在设计中传达出中国传统文化，运用年轻时尚的元素，还得在技术上满足防风保暖这些功能性需求。简言之，就是需要用最少的元素去表达最丰富的视觉感受。

为了向世界传达出中国传统文化的意蕴，本次的制服图案巧妙地将冬奥会的雪山、赛地和长城及千里江山图相结合，又融入中国水墨画的神韵，虚实结合把中国传统美学和冰雪运动服装设计有机联系在一起。

China Textile：您一共设计了几套服装？他们的亮点是什么？

贺阳：由于冬季运动的特殊性，我们一共设计了17件服装、服饰用于满足不同场地的需求。冬奥会制服分为工作人员服装、技术官员服装与志愿者服装三种。其中，工作人员和技术官员的制服图案相同，以不同的山水位置和颜色来区分；志愿者服装则包含山水图形和长城形态两种元素。

三种制服都沿袭了中国水墨画的意境，浓墨淡彩的图案以及渐变的色彩同当前的国际流行趋势十分吻合，体现了传统文化与现代文化的结合，这对我们的服装制作能力也是极大的考验。比如，在印染时，要分出颜色层次，还要定位印花，工作人员们也付出了很多努力。这次制作，对我们的设计水平也实现了巨大的提高。

China Textile：您在设计制服时对颜色的选用有哪些考量？这些颜色都有什么用意？

贺阳：官方最初给出的制服颜色要求是红蓝绿，但是我在设计时感觉这些颜色不具有代表性。我国古代传统的颜色为红、黄、蓝、黑、白这五个正色，我选取了红、蓝、白、灰这四个颜色，试着调了一下，感觉非常好，就报给奥组委了，结果获得审批。所以面对限制我们还是需要做些突破的。

这些颜色的寓意有：长城灰彰显技术官员的客观公正；霞光红展现了工作人员的实干和热情；天霁蓝展现志愿者的青春活力；瑞雪白则象征着瑞雪兆丰年。

China Textile：冬季奥运制服所需的功能性作用有很多，您在设计时是如何满足的？您怎样看待运动与高科技的结合？

贺阳：大家都知道冬季运动大部分涉及室外，保暖是个很重要的问题。但是在户外穿得太多太厚重又会影响运动。基于此，我们就在面料上下了很多功夫，采用了一些高科技材料，这也是集体的智慧。比如，内衣面料我们采用了保暖又导湿的面料；滑雪服和羽绒服的外料正面需要防水，背面覆膜透气，内里得具备聚热功能。所以我们使用了絮片。絮片有瞬间蓄热，长久保温的功能，这样就解决了这些功能上的需求。

China Textile：仅羽绒服就有十多种辅助功能设计，这为设计过程增加了不少难度，您是怎么克服的？

贺阳：羽绒服的辅助功能设计有防风护颌立领呼吸孔，肩部的立体防滑垫片，对讲机，触控笔，雪镜清洁布，D型手套扣，腋下隐形拉链，后背收纳口袋等，这些功能小细节除了一些基本的，其他都是边实地测试边加上的。比如我们在现场发现手套需要增加摩擦力，还要衣服上要有放手套的地方，我们的样衣就是这样一遍遍改出来的，并且在增加的过程中还要兼顾服装的实用性和整体的美观。

China Textile：您在这次设计中遇到的困难是什么？设计过程中最触动您的事情是什么？

贺阳：完成技术官员和工作人员的制服图案设计后，就是志愿者制服的图案设计了。因为要和安踏的设计稿相结合，增添了很大难度。结合并不是简单的图形堆砌，当时眼看春节马上到了，可稿子一遍遍的总是不满意，于是去年过年我就组织大家微信视频继续改，该简化的简化，把以前的直线长城改成斜线，把一些实线改虚，画出运动感、层次感，最后终于一次通过，也算是过了一个有意义的春节。

在整个设计过程中，我体会到我们整个团队的力量是无限的，从初稿一遍一遍的改动，一次次的重来，没有人有过怨言。包括我们的样衣工，有時候甚至帮我们提一些建议，还有工厂的工人，都是加班加点。这个时候就体现出了大家的家国情怀，有机会能为国家出力是我们每一个中国人的骄傲，这是我们中华民族文化里根深蒂固的爱国主义情怀，这让我一直很感动。

Uniforms for the Beijing 2022 Olympic and Paralympic Winter Games have been unveiled on the occasion of the 100-day countdown to Beijing 2022 Olympic Winter Games in Beijing. The uniforms consist of clothing， shoes and accessories for staff， technical officials and volunteers. The uniform combines traditional Chinese landscape paintings with the core graphics of the Olympic Winter Games in appearance， and is full of the charm and beauty of traditional Chinese culture. The final look is selected out of a pool of six hundred design. It meets the needs of the staff to move in different scenarios and temperatures， and integrate aesthetics， technology and green. Professor He Yang， the designer of the uniforms for the 2008 Beijing Olympic and Paralympic Games， and her team will join hands again for the 2022 Winter Olympics. Let’s listen to her talk about the story behind the Olympic uniform design.

China Textile： What is the design concept of the Olympic uniforms？ How do you reflect that in the uniforms？

He Yang： Olympic uniforms should not only be designed to convey traditional Chinese culture with youthful and fashionable elements， but also technically meet functional needs such as wind protection and warmth. In short， it is necessary to use the fewest elements to express the most abundant visual experience.

In order to convey the meaning of traditional Chinese culture to the world， the uniforms pattern skillfully combines the snowcapped mountains and competition sites of the Beijing 2022 Olympic Winter Games， the Great Wall and a Panorama of Rivers and Moun- tains， and also integrates the charm of Chinese ink painting. The combination of virtual and reality links the traditional Chinese aesthetics with the design of ice and snow sports clothing.

China Textile： How many uniforms have you designed？ What are the highlights of the design？

He Yang： Due to the particularity of winter sports， we designed a total of 17 pieces of clothing to meet the needs of different venues. There are three kinds of uniforms for staff， technical officials and volunteers. Among them， the uniforms of the staff and technical officers have the same pattern and are distinguished by different landscape positions and colors. The volunteers’uniform contains two elements： landscape and Great Wall.

The three uniforms all follow the artistic conception of Chinese ink painting. The pattern of thick ink and light color and gradual color are very consistent with the current international fashion trend， reflecting the combination of traditional culture and modern culture， which is also a great test for our garment making ability. For example， there is a lot of effort to separate the color layers and position the printing when dyeing and printing. The design level is also a huge improvement through this production.

China Textile： What are your considerations for color selection when designing uniforms？ What do the colors mean？

He Yang： The official color requirements were red， blue and green at first， but I thought these colors were not representative. The traditional colors of ancient China are red， yellow， blue， black and white. I took the four colors of red， blue， white and gray and tried to mix them， and it was very good. I submitted them to the Beijing Organising Committee for the 2022 Olympic and Paralympic Winter Games， which was approved. So we still need to make some breakthroughs in the face of limitations.

Glowing red， Great Wall grey， sky blue and snow white are the main colors of the uniforms for Beijing 2022. The Great Wall grey represents the objectivity and fairness of technical officials； the glowing red uniform for the staff reflects their dedication and enthusiasm； the sky blue shows the youthful vigor of volunteers； the snow white symbolizes good luck as a Chinese saying goes， “A timely snow promises a good harvest.”

China Textile： How did you design to meet the functional requirements of the Winter Olympic uniform？ What do you think about the combination of sports and high technology？

He Yang： We all know that keeping warm is an important issue for winter sports. But wearing too much and too heavy outside can interfere with exercise. Based on this， we put a lot of effort into the fabric， using some high-tech materials， which is also the collective wisdom. For example， we use warm and moistureconducting fabric for underwear； the outer material of the ski jacket and down jacket should be waterproof on the front， breathable on the back and heat-trapping on the inside. Therefore， we used the floc that can instantly store heat and keep it warm for a long time， so as to meet these functional requirements.

China Textile： How do you overcome the difficulty in the design process， for example， down jacket alone has more than 10 functions design？

He Yang： The functions of down jacket include windproof， jaw protection， vertical collar， vent， threedimensional non-slip gasket on shoulder， it also comes with a holster for walkie talkie， stylus， snow mirror cleaning cloth， D-type glove buckle， invisible zipper under armpit， back pocket， etc. Besides some basic functions， other small details are added during field test. For example， we found on site that gloves need to increase friction， and there must be a place to put gloves on the clothes. Our sample clothes have been revised over and over again in this way， and the practicality and overall beauty of clothes should be taken into account in the process of revising.

China Textile： What are your difficulties in this design？ What struck you the most during the design process？

He Yang： After completing the uniform pattern design of technical officers and staff， the pattern design of volunteers’ uniform should be combined with Anta’s design draft， which added great difficulty. Combination is not a simple graphics stack， the Spring Festival was coming， we were not satisfied with it always， so last Chinese New Year we all continued to revise the draft design through WeChat video， we revised it for two days to simplify the pattern. We revised the straight line of the Great Wall into diagonal lines and some solid lines into dotted lines to create a sense of movement and layering. Finally， the design was approved once， and we had a meaningful Spring Festival.

In the design process， I realized that the power of our team is infinite， and no one has complained about revising the draft design again and again. The sample makers， sometimes gave us some suggestions， and the factory workers often worked overtime. It is the pride of every Chinese to have the opportunity to contribute to the country. It is the deep-rooted patriotism of the Chinese culture， which always touches me.

3623500589220