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初代中国运动员的“国服”,老牌体育品牌梅花的荣耀与梦想

2022-03-09

China Textile 2022年1期
关键词:国服国潮品类

红梅傲雪绽北京,为国争光在冬奥。

Meihua blossoms proudly in Beijing and wins glory for the country in the Olympic Winter Games.

从1971年第26届世界乒乓球锦标赛的初出茅庐,到1984年在洛杉矶奥运会再次亮相,梅花这一民族品牌有过十分辉煌的巅峰时刻。在上世纪八十年代以前,梅花体育是以专业体育运动服装为主的运动品牌,产品品类涵盖了包括冰球等冬季项目在内的几十个运动项目的产品品类,曾在中国体育运动服装行业占据龙头地位。

自84年洛杉矶奥运会后,梅花开始向民用市场进军。1990年到2010年是梅花的一个低潮期,由于在改革开放的大潮中,不适应市场竞争,在国际品牌和国内新生品牌的夹击下,梅花的发展遇到了瓶颈期。2015年,梅花在新的运营体制下,又开始焕发出新的生命力,重新被市场关注。

初代中国运动员的“国服”的缔造者,对品牌与运动,尤其是此次召开的冬奥会有哪些自己的理解和看法呢?China Textile记者采访了梅花(天津)体育用品有限公司总经理甄如涛。

在中国潮流圈崭露头角

China Textile:梅花的主营产品有哪些?发展如何?

甄如涛:目前梅花的主营产品以运动服装为主,有運动服装装备、运动鞋和箱包等配套品类。另外一个品类是潮流运动品类,结合国潮运动风潮,主要针对以年轻人群为消费主体的市场。从2018年梅花参加上海时装周静态展开始,梅花品牌逐渐在中国潮流圈崭露头角,并确立了自己的地位,受到了广大运动员的喜爱和欢迎。

China Textile:作为一个家喻户晓的老品牌,梅花牌经历了不少高潮迭起。在发展品牌的过程中,梅花牌遇到的最大困难是什么?

甄如涛:上世纪90年代后,梅花遇到的挑战主要来自外来品牌和本土新兴品牌的夹击,而且并没有完全适应市场体制的运行规律。2015年,梅花通过混合所有制改革,盘活了梅花品牌,从2017年到现在,梅花正在逐步恢复的过程当中。

不断尝试让梅花更灿烂

China Textile:前段时间网络上爆火的“吴京同款”被网友们发现是老梅花牌运动服,经过多年的沉寂,梅花品牌再次受到网友热捧,您有什么感受?

甄如涛:我们特别开心,梅花产品能够受到那么多网友的喜欢。这款运动服,目前我们还在生产,并在一些方面进行了提升和改良,销售依然比较火爆。近些年国潮热持续升温,对我们民族品牌帮助很大。今后,我们还会继续按照公司既有的发展策略和方向,保证产品品质以及品牌的风格和调性。

China Textile:擅长复古运动风的梅花,最近有哪些新动作?

甄如涛:梅花可以说是中国国潮鼻祖,早在上世纪八十年代,梅花的产品设计就开始与设计潮流接轨,我们很多以前的设计,放在现在来看依旧是很时尚的。当然我们不能一味的吃老本,我们也通过各种尝试让梅花开放的更灿烂。除了自主设计开发外,我们还和许多品牌进行了跨界联名合作,其中不乏小众品牌和新锐设计师品牌,我们想让梅花能和当代年轻人产生共情。我们希望能够呈现出中国潮流自己的文化基因。例如,目前大多数国潮品牌还是以中国传统文化符号来进行表达,而我们想把中国现代的一些流行元素,特别是上世纪六十到九十年代的流行元素进行总结,做出一些提炼和创新,应用到自己的产品设计当中,这样就更有意思了。

China Textile:您认为国产品牌应该如何打造自身品牌特色?

甄如涛:我认为品牌的塑造是一个周期比较长的投入过程,在品牌建立阶段要与目标消费群体建立联系,产生共情,并提供相应产品价值和附加值,这些不仅仅体现在广告的投放上,更重要的是通过新兴推广手段,与消费群体实现联接,建立起共同的价值观。我们要做的事情还有很多,但最关键的是要精准把握目标客户人群定位。

“红梅傲雪绽北京,为国争光在冬奥。”这句话包含着梅花对2022年冬奥会的祝愿,也寄托了梅花再次腾飞的希冀。作为最早为中国奥运健儿们提供运动服装的品牌,梅花在不断完善自身品牌的同时,又具有一分难得的清醒。运动基因刻至骨髓的梅花,甄如涛对此有着既深刻又形象的认识,“运动精神的精髓就是不断的自我超越和突破,对于运动品牌来讲,老品牌不能总是老样子,这就像运动员在做力量训练一样,只有肌肉不断的撕裂再愈合,才能从中获得新的力量。”

From its debut at the 26th World Table Tennis Championships in 1971 to its appearance at the Los Angeles Olympic Games in 1984, Meihua, a national brand, has had its glorious peak moments. Meihua was a sports brand mainly specializing in professional sports apparel before the 1980s, and its products covered dozens of sports categories including ice hockey and other winter sports, once occupying the leading position in sports apparel in China.

After the Los Angeles 1984 Olympic Games, Meihua began to enter the civilian market. Meihua has experienced highs and lows in its 70 years of development. The period from 1990 to 2010 was a low period for Meihua. Due to the inability to adapt to market competition in the tide of reform and opening up, coupled with the impact of international brands and new domestic brands, the development of Meihua encountered a bottleneck period. However, from 2015 to now, Meihua has glowed with new vitality and held the market’s attention again.

China Textile: What are the main products of Meihua? How is it going?

Zhen Rutao: The main products of Meihua at present are mainly sports apparel, including sports shoes, bags and other supporting categories. The other category is the trend sports category, combined with Guochao sports, which is mainly for the young people as the main consumer market. Since Meihua participated in the static exhibition of Shanghai Fashion Week in 2018, the brand has gradually emerged in the Chinese fashion circle and established its own position, which is loved and welcomed by the athletes.

China Textile: As a well-known old brand, Meihua brand has experienced many moments of glory. In the process of developing the brand, what is the biggest difficulty Meihua has encountered?

Zhen Rutao: Meihua encountered challenges mainly from foreign brands and local emerging brands after the 1990s, and did not fully adapt to the operation rules of the market system. Meihua revitalized its brand through mixed-ownership reform in 2015. Meihua is in the process of gradual recovery from 2017 to now.

China Textile: The Wu Jing’s same style sportswear that was internet meme a while ago was found to be the old Meihua brand sportswear. What’s your opinion on this? Is this kind of sportswear still in production?

Zhen Rutao: We are so happy to be liked by so many netizens. We are still producing this sportswear, and we have improved it in some aspects. It is quite popular. In recent years, Guochao continues to rise, which helps our national brands a lot. However, we will continue to follow our existing development strategy and direction to ensure product quality and brand style.

China textile: Meihua is good at retro sports style design, what are the new moves recently?

Zhen Rutao: Meihua can be said to be Guochao originator, as early as the 1980s, the product design of Meihua is in line with design circles, many of previous designs are still very fashionable today. Of course, we also try to make Meihua bloom more splendidly. In addition to independent design and development, we have also carried out crossover joint cooperation with many brands, some of which are niche brands and emerging designer brands. We want to create empathy between Meihua and contemporary young people. We hope to present the cultural gene of Chinese trend. For example, most of the current Guochao brands are still expressed in traditional Chinese culture symbols, and we want to make some choices and innovations from modern Chinese fashion elements, especially from the 1960s to the 1990s, and it would be more interesting to be used in the design of the product.

China Textile: How do you think domestic brands should create their own brand characteristics?

Zhen Rutao: I think the brand shaping process is a cycle longer, it is necessary to establish contact with target consumer groups, generate empathy, and provide corresponding product value and value-added in the stage of establishing a brand. These are not only reflected in the advertising, more importantly, connect with consumer groups through the emerging promotion means, and finally establish common values. We still have a lot of things to do, but the most crucial thing is to accurately grasp the positioning of the target customer group, it’s the same whether it’s a domestic brand or a foreign brand.

“Meihua blossoms proudly in Beijing and wins glory for the country in the Olympic Winter Games.”This sentence contains Meihua’s wishes for the Beijing 2022 Olympic Winter Games and hopes Meihua brand to soar again. As the earliest brand to provide sportswear for Chinese Olympic athletes, Meihua is constantly improving its own brand at the same time, but also keeps sober-minded. Speaking of the revival of the old brand, Meihua has a deep and vivid understanding. “The essence of sportsmanship is continuous self-transcendence and breakthrough. For sports brands, old brands should not always look the same, they should be like athletes doing strength training, only by constant practice can they continue to increase their strength.”

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