铜元局，新旧之间的挂念

刘晓娜

“重庆有很多大型立交桥、高楼，也有小巷子，就像个迷宫，把人物放在这里，就有一种逃不出这个地方的感觉。”正因如此，导演曾国祥将《少年的你》拍摄地放在重庆。

借助立体、魔幻的地形，《少年的你》得以呈现出青春期难以逃避的忧郁情绪。铜元局轨道交通站，便是这种表达的载体之一。

自《火锅英雄》《少年的你》等电影在这里取景后，来打卡的年轻人便络绎不绝。无论是跟着白百合的步伐“从天上来”，还是在易烊千玺的眼神中从地面仰视，铜元局总会给人一种高深莫测的孤寂感。

打卡的年轻人乘轨道交通来来去去，跟着扶梯上上下下，始终在立体空间里活动，却鲜有人将脚步延伸到几百米远的一个平面——他们不知道，那里还有一个铜元局。

"Chongqing has many large overpasses， high-rise buildings and small alleys， just like a maze. If the characters are placed here， there may be a feeling of not being able to escape from this place." For this reason， director Zeng Guoxiang set Better Days in Chongqing.

With the help of three-dimensional and magical terrain， Better Days is able to present the inescapable melancholy emotions of people in adolescence. The rail transit station of Copper Cash Manufactory is one of the carriers of this expression.

Since films such as Chongqing Hotpot and Better Days were filmed here， this area has been packed with young visitors. Whether it is with Bai Baihe’s pace "from the sky"， or with Jackson Yee’s eyes looking up from the ground， the Copper Cash Manufactory always gives people an enigmatic sense of loneliness.

Young people who traveling here come and go by rail transit， follow the escalator up and down， and always move in the threedimensional space. However， few people extend their footsteps to the place hundreds of meters away-they don’t know that there is also a Copper Cash Manufactory there.

穿越Pass Through

對摄影师来说，铜元局可以说是一处绝佳的山城取景地。苏家坝立交桥与层层叠叠的铜元局轨道交通站，共同构成了镜头里的立体铜元局，蔚为壮观。

铜元局街道下辖的10个社区，沿着山体立体分布，高差70多米的苏家坝立交桥串联起铜元局街道的上下半城。凡是坐出租车去融侨半岛，司机都会先问一句“融侨上面还是下面？”一旦下错一个口子，就意味着要多绕一大圈。

但苏家坝立交桥在720度的盘旋之间，串联的不仅是上半城和下半城，还有昨天和今天。

苏家坝，本就是这块江边平地的原名，自清朝光绪年间在此设铜元局铸币以来，“铜元局”开始成名。不管是后来的“兵工署第二十工厂”还是“长江电工厂”，一个个大厂交替，都为这里增添着工业时代的烙印。

直到有一天，长江电工厂搬迁到了茶园，“苏家坝”的名穿回到了新建的立交桥上，没有了大厂的铜元局进入以楼盘命名的阶段。

然而，这些楼盘的住户即使入住已长达十余载，于他们而言，楼盘小区才是清晰定义身份和方位的坐标。

芭蕉湾社区算是例外，因为这里还保留着一片长江电工厂的家属院。邻里之间的关系，还可以用“他原来是某某车间的”来表述。

宽阔的南铜路贯穿铜元局，当来到芭蕉湾，两侧的街景截然不同：西侧是崭新的商品房小区，以及便利店、美容会所、网咖，而东侧是老旧家属院，和菜市场、老火锅、剃头店、烟摊、废品回收点……

因为芭蕉湾，整个融侨半岛片区的居民，或多或少都会在新旧两个时空发生交集。

每天清晨，上半城的“买菜大军”会坐着381路公交车一路摇摇晃晃来到芭蕉湾，在大田坝农贸市场买菜、割肉、杀鱼；早晚高峰，摆渡的三轮车穿过老旧家属区，在新建小区门口和铜元局轻轨站之间往来穿梭，接送着上班族；芭蕉湾社区对面，就是铜元局街道的社区卫生服务中心，不管是老街还是别墅洋房里出生的小孩，隔段时间都得汇集到此处挨上一针.....

尤其是夜幕降临，从苏家坝立交往下看，融侨半岛林立的高楼之下，是一片热闹的夜市场景。铜元局的新与旧最终在色香味的盛宴中融为一体。

For photographers， the Copper Cash Manufactory can be an excellent mountain city for shooting. Sujiaba overpass and the rail transit station of Copper Cash Manufactory， which are stacked one upon another， together form the three-dimensional Copper Cash Manufactory in the camera， providing a magnificent spectacle.

Ten communities under the jurisdiction of Copper Cash Manufactory are distributed in three dimensions along the mountain， and Sujiaba overpass with a height difference of more than 70 meters connects the upper and lower half city of the Street of Copper Cash Manufactory. Whenever you take a taxi to Rongqiao Peninsula， the driver will first ask， "Do you go to the top or the bottom of Rongqiao？" Once you take a wrong intersection， it means you have to make a big circle.

However， Sujiaba overpass hovers at 720 degrees， connecting not only the upper half city and the lower half city， but also yesterday and today.

Sujiaba is the original name of this flat land along the river. It has become famous since the Copper Cash Manufactory was set up here during the reign of Emperor Guangxu of the Qing Dynasty. Whether it was the "20th Factory of the Military Industry Department" or the "Yangtze River Electric Factory"， the big factories added the mark of the industrial era to the area.

Until one day， the Changjiang Electric Power Factory moved to the Tea Garden， and the name of "Sujiaba" went back to the newly-built overpass. Without the big factory， the Copper Cash Manufactory entered the stage of naming after the buildings.

However， even though the residents of these buildings have been staying for more than ten years. For them， the real estate community is the coordinate that clearly defines the identity and orientation.

Bajiao Bay community is an exception， because there is still a relative’s courtyard of Changjiang Electric Power Factory. The relationship between neighbors can also be expressed by "he used to belong to one workshop".

The wide Nantong Road runs through the Copper Cash Manufactory. When you come to Bajiao Bay， the street scenes on both sides are completely different： on the west side， there are brand-new commercial housing community， convenience stores， beauty clubs and Internet cafes， while on the east side， there are old relative’s courtyard， vegetable market， old hot pot， barber shop， cigarette stall and waste recycling point...

Because of the Bajiao Bay， the residents of the entire Rongqiao Peninsula area will more or less intersect between the old and the new.

Every morning， the "food shopping army" in the first half of the city will take the No.381 bus and stagger all the way to Bajiao Bay to buy food， meat and fish at Datianba Farmers Market； In the morning and evening peaks， the ferry tricycle passes through the old relative’s courtyard and shuttles between the entrance of the newly-built community and the light rail station of Copper Cash Manufactory to pick up and drop off office workers； Opposite Bajiao Bay Community is the Community Health Service Center of Copper Cash Manufactory Street. Children born in old streets or villas and houses have to gather here every other time to take an injection...

Especially as night falls， looking down from Sujiabali Overpass， there is a lively scene of night market under the highrise buildings in Rongqiao Peninsula. The new and the old of the Copper Cash Manufactory are finally integrated in the feast of color， aroma and taste.

牽挂Solicitude

今年82岁的彭安满老人，是长江电工厂的退休职工，也是厂区搬迁后第一批就地安置的退休职工，他把晚年时光也留在了铜元局。当我们向他打听铜元局的变迁时，彭爷爷便滔滔不绝，一一历数过去各个车间的位置所在。

他在这里工作生活了一辈子，对夏天那碗酸梅汤十分怀念：“我们厂里的酸梅汤远近有名，喝不完的还拉到渝中区去卖……”

和那个年代所有的大厂一样，长江电工厂也曾是一个小型社会，医院、幼儿园、学校、球场、商店、理发店等一应俱全，不出铜元局便能满足各种生活需要。

如今，铜元局徒留其名，大厂时代已成过去。但至少在芭蕉湾，百年来工业社会留下烟火气还在，还有千丝万缕的挂念在故事里流传。

临街“何剃头”的老板何于兰最近正在寻找新的门面——棚改让人期待，也打乱了芭蕉湾的节奏。她的父亲何贵全在铜元局剃了一辈子的头，远近有名，“何剃头”既成了人名，也成了店名。

四年前，何贵全离开人世，何于兰保留了这个店名，父亲用过的剃刀、夹子、电吹风都被她收藏着，算是对父亲和旧时光的怀念。

一个人在一块土地生活一辈子，会留下什么？何剃头已故四年，但铜元局还留着他的故事。当我们与何于兰聊天时，进来一位拄着拐杖的老人，何于兰称他“秦伯伯”——何剃头的老朋友秦世谷。

听见我们在聊何剃头，秦世谷便打开了话匣子：“我们是几十年的好朋友，从我进厂起，他就在铜元局剃头。”秦世谷二十几岁进入长江电工厂，在科研所工作，今年已经84岁。他与何贵全因剃头认识，成了一辈子的好朋友。纵使好朋友离世四年，秦世谷还是会每天到店里坐坐。

何于兰比较钟意街对面安置房楼下的门市，“不想搬远了。”她没说出的后半句，我猜应该是与人有关。铜元局不仅有相识一辈子的老熟客，还有父亲一生的挚交——她若搬走了，秦伯伯到哪里去坐坐，又找谁去聊天呢？

Peng Anman， an 82-year-old man， is a retired worker of Changjiang Electric Power Factory and one of the first batch of retired workers to be resettled locally after the relocation of the factory. He also stayed in the Copper Cash Manufactory in his later years. When we asked him about the changes of the Copper Cash Manufactory， Grandpa Peng would then spoke eloquently where each workshop was located in the past.

He has worked and lived here all his life and missed the nostalgia of a bowl of sour plum soup in summer： "The sour plum soup in our factory was generally known far and near， and the rest would be sold to Yuzhong District..."

Like all the big factories in that era， Changjiang Electric Factory was once a small society， with hospitals， kindergartens， schools， stadiums， shops， barbershops and so on， which could meet all kinds of life needs without walking out from the Copper Cash Manufactory.

Today， the Copper Cash Manufactory is in name only， as the era of big factories has been over. However， at least in Bajiao Bay， the atmosphere that fills streets with the smell of grilled meats， makeshift lights and chatter left by the industrial society for a hundred years are still there， along with ever-lasting cares.

He Yulan， the boss of "He Titou" facing the street， is looking for a new store recently - the Shanty Town Reform， though something exciting to look forward to， disrupts the rhythm of Bajiao Bay. Her father He Guiquan has cut hair for others all his life in the Copper Cash Manufactory， and was famous far and near. "He Titou" later became both the name of him and his store.

Four years ago， He Guiquan passed away， and He Yulan kept the store name. Her father’s razors， clips and hair dryers were all collected by her， which was regarded as nostalgia for her father and the old days.

What will a person leave behind when he lives in a piece of land all his life？ He Titou has passed away for four years， but the Copper Cash Manufactory still keeps his story. When we were chatting with He Yulan， an old man with crutches came in. He Yulan called him "Uncle Qin" - Qin Shigu， an old friend of He Titou.

Hearing that we were talking about He Titou， Qin Shigu said that， "We have been good friends for decades. Since I entered the factory， he has cut hair for others in the Copper Cash Manufactory." Qin Shigu entered Changjiang Electric Power Factory in his twenties and worked in the scientific research institute. He is 84 years old this year. He and He Guiquan met because of a haircut and have become good friends for life. Even though his friend died four years ago， Qin Shigu would visit the store every day.

He Yulan is more interested in the store under the resettlement house across the street. "I don’t want to move far away." The second half of the sentence she didn’t say， I guess， should be related to the people. In the Copper Cash Manufactory， there are not only old and regular customers she has known for a lifetime， but also close friends of her father - if she moves away， where should Uncle Qin go and who should he talk to？