重游中法庄园

文 Tersina Shieh 编、译 张恬熙

2017年中，我拜访了位于河北省怀来县的迦南酒业及其姐妹酒庄中法庄园，尽管这两个酒庄都是从2003年就开始酿造葡萄酒，但是这些葡萄酒均未上市。

When I visited Canaan Wine and its sister winery Domaine Franco-Chinois,located in Huailai in Hebei province back in mid 2017,the wines were not commercially available despite the fact that wine has been made since 2003.

谢德兰

当时我品尝过的部分葡萄酒比一些更出名的中国品牌好得多，可庄主仍然认为，这些葡萄酒还是没有达到可以上市的水平。因此，我很高兴终于在2019年11月在上海的葡道（葡萄酒零售店兼酒吧）看见并且品尝到了迦南酒业旗下的诗百篇葡萄酒，更令人兴奋的是在2020年初，我又再次参观了这个酒庄。迦南酒业于2018年推出市场，为了避免与宁夏另一家名为迦南美地的酒庄混淆，所以决定将“诗百篇”作为品牌名称。诗百篇这个名字很适合，因为这位来自中国台湾的庄主是基督徒，而这个名称寓意赞美诗，在中文里也充满了诗意。

大部分的中国酒庄只专注于赤霞珠、霞多丽或者是波尔多混酿品种，而不管土壤和气候是否适合种植这些品种。迦南酒业则很有创意，葡萄园里还种植了雷司令、长相思、黑皮诺、丹魄以及西拉，这些葡萄分别种植在海拔500-900米之间，占地300公顷。酿酒师赵德升喜欢尝试克隆品种，他有10个赤霞珠的克隆和7个黑皮诺的克隆。他解释说：不同的克隆有不同的表达方式，就算使用了一样的酵母发酵并且在相同的橡木桶中陈年，最终的呈现还是会不一样。因此，将这些克隆品种进行混酿会让最终的葡萄酒变得更加复杂。

2017年份的雷司令口感清爽并带有丰富的青柠香气，与克莱尔谷的葡萄酒别无二致。而2017年份的西拉则有着令人愉悦的胡椒气息以及和谐的单宁。我喜欢2017年份的黑皮诺，它表现活泼并且有潜力，在瓶中陈年期间得到进一步发展。2014年份的赤霞珠特级珍藏则展现了深度以及很好的平衡。

另一款使人印象深刻的葡萄酒是中法庄园2013年份的马瑟兰（我们在品尝2014年份的同时也饮用了这款酒）。马瑟兰是20世纪60年代在法国培育出来的杂交品种，双亲分别是赤霞珠和歌海娜。马瑟兰于2000年初在中法庄园种植，那时的中法庄园是一家中法合资企业，直到2010年被迦南酒业收购。这是首次在中国种植马瑟兰，事实证明它适应得很好。马瑟兰比赤霞珠更易于管理，在中国越来越受欢迎。尽管赵德升说，要酿造一款出色的马瑟兰并不容易，但这瓶7岁的陈年马瑟兰葡萄酒仍然散发着红色水果的芳香并且酸度很高，我很确信这就是中国最优秀的马瑟兰葡萄酒之一。当迦南酒业的庄主决定在中国酿酒时，他们在2006-2009年，花了3年时间研究了中国的16个地区，才最终确定河北省怀来县的土壤和气候是最适合种植葡萄的。这里种植食用葡萄的历史已经有1000年，中国的第一瓶干白葡萄酒就是在1979年于这里诞生。

The selection of wine I tasted then was much better than some of the more famous Chinese brands but the owner thought that it was still not good to be released.Therefore I was glad to finally have seen and tasted Canaan Wine,under the name 诗百篇,at Shanghai Pudao retail shop cum wine bar in November 2019,and even more excited to visit the winery again in the beginning of 2020.Canaan Wine was launched in 2018 but they decided to use the brand name 诗百篇to avoid confusion with another winery in Ningxia called Kanaan Winery.The name 诗百篇 suits well because the Taiwanese owner is a Christian and the name implies hymn and also has a poetic connotation in Chinese.

Most wineries in China only focus on Cabernet Sauvignon or Bordeaux blend and Chardonnay regardless if the soil and climate are suitable for these varieties.Cannan is creative and has also planted Riesling,Sauvignon Blanc,Pinot Noir,Tempranillo and Syrah at different attitude between 500 and 900m,spread over 300ha.Winemaker Zhao Desheng likes to experiment with clones.He has 10 clones of Cabernet Sauvignon and 7 clones of Pinot Noir.He explained that different clones have different expressions even fermented with the same yeasts and aged in same barrels therefore blending them together with give more complexity to the final wine.

The Riesling 2017 is refreshing with abundant lime aroma not dissimilar to Clare Valley’s while the 2017 Syrah has a pleasant peppery nose and integrated tannin.I like the lively 2017 Pinot Noir which has potential to develop further in bottle.The 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon Grand Reserve shows depth and is well balanced.

Another impressive wine was the Domaine Franco-Chinois 2013 Marselan (we tasted this alongside 2014 vintage).Marselan is a cross between Cabernet Sauvignon and Grenache developed in the 1960s in France.It was planted at Domaine Franco-Chinois in early 2000,then a Sino-French joint venture before being acquired by Canaan in 2010.It was the first planting of Marselan in China and it prove to adapt well.It is easier to manage than Cabernet Sauvignon and is gaining popularity in China.Although Deshang said it is not easy to make an outstanding Marselan,this 7 years old Marselan is still bursted with red fruit aromas supported by great acidity and I’m pretty convinced that this is one of the outstanding Marselan in China.

Apparently,when the owner of Canaan decided to make wine in China,they spent three years between 2006 and 2009 researching 16 regions in China and decided Huailai in Hebei is the most suitable in terms of soil and climate.The region has been growing table grapes for 1,000 years and China’s first bottle of dry white wine was made here in 1979.