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用味道记住一座城

2021-08-04

文化交流 2021年6期
关键词:扁食鸡子油酥

用味道记住一座城,爱上天台的缘由一定不只是山水风景,更是那宁静美好的小城芳华,抑或是那悠久深邃的人文历史,以及那令人怀念的味道。

Falling in love with Tiantai is easy: the picturesque landscape, the peaceful village stroll, the historical atmosphere, and the unforgettable local dishes.

饺饼筒

Jigong Burrrito

饺饼筒不仅是台州的,更是中国的。在上海世博会期间,饺饼筒被叫作“济公卷饼”,作为中华名小吃登场,而这名字则源自它的来历。相传,天台的济公和尚见每餐剩下不少菜,于是就把剩菜裹入面饼,留到下一顿再吃。

单从饺饼筒这一叫法可能不能直接了解到它的吃法,但若称之为卷饼则相对直观一些。用面粉加水拌成面粉浆,摊饼时,拈一团又软又韧的面粉浆放在底部加热的平底鏊盘上,顺时针或逆时针匀上一圈即成,再卷入土豆丝、鸡蛋丝、茭白、炒肉等家常菜,最后放到锅里煎得又香又脆,一个饺饼筒就完成了。皮薄、陷香的饺饼筒,是每一个在外漂泊的天台人的乡愁。

Being a local favorite, Jigong Burrito is popular in China and beyond—it was exhibited as a representative Chinese delicacy at Shanghai World Expo. Legend has it that Jigong, a famous monk born in Tiantai, always took a flat bread to wrap some leftovers for his next meal. That is, as is largely believed, where the name came from.

To make a Jigong Burrito, you need a batter, which is a mixture of flour and water, and make sure it is soft and elastic. Take some of the batter to put on a hot pan, before smearing it evenly clockwise or counterclockwise; fill the freshly made flat bread with home-cooked shredded potatoes, fried eggs, stir-fried sliced meat… you name it, roll it up, and pan-fry it until it is nice and crispy. For Tiantai people working away from their hometown, this is a taste of home.

扁食

Bianshi Dumpling

扁食是天台的特色小吃,在天台某些地区,扁食也是端午的主要食物。与饺饼筒一样,扁食也是由面粉制成。揉面,切段,用擀面杖压成巴掌大的薄皮,然后把煮熟的萝卜、笋干、精肉、豆腐干、鸡蛋碎末搅拌在一起作为馅料,包裹进面皮中。

形状类似饺子,但比饺子更精致,丰富的馅料又让它比馄饨更丰满。扁食一般现做现吃,水煮、清蒸、油煎,吃法多种多样,记住一定要趁热吃,那样才够香!

Mainly made of flour, bianshi dumpling is finer than ordinary dumpling, and fuller stuffed than wonton. It is a traditional food for Dragon Boat Festival in some parts of Tiantai.

This is how you make it: prepare a flour dough, chop it into small squares, and use a rolling pin to roll out each square into a thin-skinned, palm-sized disc; put the filling—a well-stirred mixture of cooked radish, dried bamboo shoots, lean meat—into the middle of a disc; fold it and seal its edges.

After it is properly made, it could be cooked in different ways, such as boiling, steaming, and pan-frying. Just member: freshly made and cooked bianshi dumpling is the best, so dig in while it is hot.

糊拉汰

Hulatai Pancake

在天臺的早晨,一张糊拉汰是对早餐起码的尊重。这是天台最正宗的小吃之一,以麦粉为原料,调成稀薄而不失其黏性的糊状,用手把它放在锅子里摊拉成圆形的薄饼,上面可以放各种馅,比如土豆丝、芥菜、豆芽、茄子、南瓜丝、鸡蛋、菜干、豆腐等,菜的添加全凭个人口味决定,一次一个,不到一分钟就熟,制作方便,香脆可口。

For Tiantai locals, a decent breakfast cannot do without a piece of hulatai pancake, an authentic wheaten snack.

Make a thin yet elastic batter from wheaten powders, its main ingredient, spread some of the batter evenly over a hot pan to create an extra-thin pancake, then add filling on top to your liking: shredded potatoes, mustard greens, bean sprouts, eggplants, shredded pumpkin, eggs, dried vegetables, tofu... It takes less than 1 minute to cook a crispy hulatai pancake—easy breezy.

火燒饼

Huoshao Flat Bread

天台的火烧饼也是一绝。作为天台的特色食品,火烧饼的做法既讲究又便捷。上好面粉发酵后,拌油酥,捏成饼皮,与用肥膘、细葱剁碎混成的馅揉作饼状,再在饼上涂一层喷香的油酥,油酥上撒芝麻,然后贴在火烧饼炉内壁上烘烤成熟。饼在炉中烘烤时的温度、湿度均极有讲究,烘烤时从炉口喷散出的香味,即为活招牌,电影有“闻香识美人”,天台人那都是闻香吃烧饼。

The recipe of huoshao flat bread, a type of baked, stuffed flat bread, is refined and convenient: make your pastry dough with leavened quality flour, flatten it to make wrappers, and stuff each wrapper with pork fat and chopped shallot as you shape it into a flat bread; brush some pre-stirred oil glaze at the top, which is to be coated with sesame; and press the flat bread onto the side wall of a special stove until it is baked perfectly.

Both the temperature and humidity of the working stove are attention-worthy, so is the aroma coming out of the stove—you know it is time for a  huoshao flat bread.

三合油泡

Sanhe Fried Gluten Ball

可以和肉一起烧的,除了千张,还有油泡,甚至有时候,觉得油泡比千张更容易吸收肉的精华。只是油泡没有千张扎实,吃的时候口味也略重,这个时候,配上一碗白米饭最好不过了!说到油泡,最爱的还是三合镇的油泡,一个油泡满满一大口,其本身柔软而香甜,令人回味。除了烧肉,三合油泡炖筒骨也是美味至极的。

Similar to tofu sheet, fried gluten balls go well with meat. Since they are less dense in texture than the former and absorbs flavors easily, you may need a bowl of rice when eating a meat dish cooked with fried gluten balls, which could taste overly strong. The fried gluten ball made in Sanhe county is highly recommended for its extra softness and sweetness, and it is really delicious when stewed with marrow bones.

天台豆腐皮

Tiantai Tofu Sheet

天台的豆腐皮,是既可以做主角又可以做配角的食材,可谓海纳百川,有容乃大。它和不同的食材搭配,可以出现不同的效果,干炸响铃、春卷、杨梅圆、面脑面等我们喜爱的美食中,都有它的身影。天台豆腐皮具有轻薄、耐烹煮、有营养、便于携带储藏的特点,来一趟天台,带上豆腐皮回去送人或自食都是非常不错的选择。

Tiantai Tofu sheet is a versatile ingredient, which appears in a wide range of popular dishes including stir-fried bean curd roll, spring roll, meat ball, and noodles. Light, thin, and resilient in texture, it is also nutritious and easy to carry and store, an ideal specialty for travelers to take back and give out as a gift—or enjoy for themselves.

羊脚蹄

Sheep Hoof-Shaped Pastry

在天台,还有一种面点,因形状酷似羊蹄,故名羊脚蹄。制作方式也不难,把发酵过的甜面粉做成四周圆、底面平、上面分成四瓣的羊蹄形状,面上撒上芝麻,烘烤而成,香甜松脆,清香可口。食客们若是吃了太多油腻的东西,这个时候来块羊脚蹄可以達到吸油的效果。

Sheep Hoof-Shaped Pastry, as the name suggests, is a pastry shaped like a sheep hoof. It is not hard to make: take some leaven sweetened powder and shape it into a sheep hoof—rounded on all sides, flat on the bottom with a top divided into four flaps; sprinkle the top with sesame; and bake it until it is sweet and crispy. This is the kind of take-away local snack that soothes a stomach filled with too many greasy foods, and cheers visitors up whenever they feel tired and hungry.

鸡子茶

Egg Tea

鸡子茶不是茶,其实它就是白开水打鸡蛋,其工艺简单,操作方便,尤其适合秋季去燥补气。在煮鸡子茶时按个人喜好,加些枸杞、红枣、桂圆、红糖、黄酒……满满一碗佐料丰富的鸡子茶下肚,别提有多满足了!

Egg tea is actually no tea at all. Making egg tea, or rather boiling water with whipped egg, is as simple as it sounds: while keeping the “tea” boiling, add some goji berries, red dates, dried longan fruit, brown sugar, yellow wine...the way you like it. It is a wholesome drink for autumn, for it helps reduce internal body heat and invigorate vital energy.

石莲豆腐、青草糊

Shilian Tofu and Green Grass Jelly

石莲豆腐是白色的,是以石莲果实为原料做成的饮品。石莲果实,就是屈原在《离骚》中提到的“薜荔”。制作时取其果实石莲子,装入布袋,用井水浸泡,在水中反复搓揉,挤出果实内的胶汁,经过大约半小时,胶汁冷凝后即成晶莹剔透的石莲豆腐。

而青草糊是黑色的。做青草糊的原料为“青草”, 青草有降火气、解热、消暑、清血等功能,将其拿来熬煮,便成为了青草糊。青草糊色泽棕黑,有点像龟苓膏,不过味道比龟苓膏要好。

Shilian tofu is a drink made from Shilian fruit (climbing fig fruit), and white in color. To make Shilian tofu: pack some Shilian fruit with a cloth bag to soak in well water, rub them repeatedly to squeeze out the gelatinous juice, and leave the juice to rest for about half an hour. Then this silken, crystal Shilian tofu is ready to serve.

Green grass jelly is a black-colored drink made by simmering a kind of “green grass”, which helps cool down internal body heat and clean blood vessels. It looks a little like Chinese herbal jelly, but tastes better.

天台九大碗

Nine-Course Dish (Jiudawan)

九大碗,是天台民间嫁囡娶亲宴请客人时的传统菜肴。一共有九大碗,每碗都有意义,上菜的顺序也有讲究,包含吉祥如意的寓意。而且“九”与“久”同音,故天台人也把“九”视为吉祥的象征,寓意长长久久。

Nine-course dish (jiudawan) is a traditional delicacy for wedding banquets in Tiantai. Each served in a big bowl, the nine courses are given different meanings, and must thus be served in a special order to deliver an auspicious message of “good fortune”. Because the “jiu”(九) in “jiudawan” (where it means “nine”)  sounds the same as another Chinese character which means “everlasting” (久), the name of the dish is auspicious as well.

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