非遗小吃 最重庆的味道

杨艳

重庆自古物产丰富，食材多样，巴渝大地人员往来频繁，也带来了饮食的多元化。勤劳的重庆人民创造了极具巴渝地域色彩和民俗风情的地方小吃，就地取材造就的美食，反映了当地的物质文化及社会生活风貌，是在外游子牵挂的乡愁滋味，也是游客了解一座城市最地道的载体。

重庆不仅有豪放热辣的火锅文化，还有灿若群星的小吃文化，几乎每个区县都拥有自己独特的地方小吃。万州有一碗津津有味的杂酱面，身在武陵山区的酉阳人钟爱一口土家族油茶汤，丰都人引以为傲的是麻辣鸡块，黔江人的心头好是一碗绿豆粉……从食物原料到制作方式，融入非遗技艺的地方特色小吃体现了重庆丰富的饮食文化，更体现了重庆人对于美食的热爱。

“种撒白露间，移栽寒露田。经冬蕴采厚，春获翡翠千。习风送露走，腌榨土窖坛。育得百味长，开坛万家香。”世代相传的诗句形象地反映了涪陵榨菜从“种下去”到“端上来”的过程。涪陵榨菜的手艺人执着地在寸碟天地间，坚守着以诚为本的匠人精神。120多年来，一碟碟榨菜从最初长江两岸百姓餐桌上的佐餐小食，演变成中国人餐桌上的“国民下饭菜”。

早在2008年，涪陵榨菜传统制作技艺就被列入国家级非物质文化遗产名录。1915年，首届“巴拿马—太平洋国际博览会”在美国旧金山举行，中国涪陵榨菜荣获金奖，从此蜚声中外。1970年在法国举行的世界酱香菜评比会上，涪陵榨菜更是与德国甜酸甘兰、法国酸黄瓜被并称为世界三大名腌菜。

永川区以生产豆豉而闻名，素有“豆豉之乡”的美称。永川豆豉生产工艺起源于永川家庭作坊，已有300多年的历史。豆豉是大豆煮熟后，经过幽闭发酵而成。将一粒豆豉放进嘴里，轻轻咬破，豆豉在舌齿的摩擦力作用下迅速融化，香气浓郁，滋味鲜美。

合川桃片是重庆市合川区传统名点之一，始创于1840年。桃片用上等糯米、核桃仁、白砂糖、蜜玫瑰等原料精制而成。特点为口感细润、绵软，片薄、色洁白、味香甜，突出浓郁的桃仁、玫瑰香味。1917年曾在巴拿马万国博览会上荣获金奖。其制作工艺于2007年5月被列入首批重庆市级非物质文化遗产名录。

黔江区的濯水绿豆粉历史悠久，是当地人早餐、夜宵必不可少的美食。原料由粳稻米、黄豆和绿豆按一定比例配制而成，制作过程讲究“泡、磨、烙、烫”四道工序，因其制作工艺简单、便捷，口感香软、爽口，在黔江就成了一道大众化的美食。

在彭水，香、甜、酥、脆的郁山擀酥饼，至今已有两百多年的历史，擀酥饼技艺已被列入重庆市级非物质文化遗产名录。其配料精致，采用上等的面粉、饴糖、芝麻、黄豆、桂花、陈皮等原料，经手工精制而成，属于纯天然的健康食品。有名人食后曰：“食尽江南珍馐味，始知郁镇有擀酥。”

丰都麻辣鸡块的起源最早可追溯到唐宋时期，色泽红亮鲜香，香味浓郁四溢，味道麻辣鲜甜，入口肉质劲道而细嫩，荣获“重庆老字号”“中华名小吃”“重庆名小吃”等称号。如今，借助电商，丰都麻辣鸡块已畅销国内、远销海外。

此外，以美食为主的民俗活动也成为了市级非遗项目，比如，秀山的社飯制作与分享习俗，彭水的土家族三道席传统习俗，万盛的茶树红苗长桌宴……都极具地域特色，承载着浓浓的乡愁。

对于老重庆人来说，这些美食是一种舌尖记忆，它体现着巴渝市井风情，蕴含着百姓的无限情思。来重庆，尝一口当地人用一辈子守候的味道，或许更能体会美味的重庆生活。

图片/相关区县宣传部、文化旅游委提供

Since ancient times， Chongqing has been teemed with abundant natural resources and diverse food materials. Frequent personnel exchanges on the land of Bayu have also brought about the diversification of diet. The industrious Chongqing people  crafted local snacks with distinct regional and folk characteristics of Bayu. The tasty cuisines made from local materials reflect the local material culture and social outlook，  fixating the nostalgia of wanderers and acting as the most authentic carrier for travelers to dip into a city.

Chongqing not only boasts a unrestrained and spicy hot pot culture， but is also known for its splendid snack culture. Almost every district owns unique local snacks. Wanzhou offers a bowl of noodles with meat sauce， Youyang people in Wuling mountainous area love Tujia fried flour soup， Fengdu folks are proud of spicy diced chicken， and Qianjiang residents fall for a bowl of mung bean powder... From food raw materials to production methods， local characteristic snacks integrated with intangible cultural heritage techniques reflect the Chongqing's rich gastronomical culture and its people's enthusiasm for food.

"Planted in the White Dew and transplanted in the Cold Dew fields， after the winter cultivation， thousands of emerald-like sprouts are harvested. As the dew is sent away by the breeze， pickle the mustard stems in the earthen altars. A lingering taste is eventually brewed， and a durable aroma spreads to millions of households."  The verse handed down from generation to generation vividly demonstrates the process of Fuling mustard pickle from "planting" to "serving". The craftsmen of Fuling pickle stick to the spirit of honesty in the gastronomical world. For over 120 years， pickle has evolved from a snack for households' on the banks of the Yangtze River to a "national side dish" on the meal tables of all Chinese people.

As early as 2008， Fuling pickle traditional production techniques were included in the national intangible cultural heritage list. In 1915， the first "Panama Pacific International Exposition" was held in San Francisco， US， where Fuling pickle of China won the gold medal and became renowned at home and abroad. Fuling pickle， together with German Red Cabbage and French Pickled Cucumbers， was known as the world's three famous pickles during a sauce & pickle appraisal conference in France in 1970s.

Yongchuan District， famous for producing fermented soybeans， is crowned as the "hometown of fermented soybeans". Yongchuan fermented soybean production technology originated from a Yongchuan family workshop， dated over 300 years ago. Fermented soybeans are made by fermentation after the soybeans are fully cooked. By gently chewing a fermented soy bean in the mouth， one will be overwhelmed by its full-bodied aroma and delicious taste unleashed from the instant thawing of the bean  between the frictions of the tongue and the teeth.

Founded in 1840， Hechuan Juglans Slices is one of the traditional famous pastry in Hechuan District of Chongqing. Made of high-grade glutinous rice， juglans kernel， white granulated sugar， honey rose and other raw materials， it is characterized by delicate and soft texture， thin slices， white color， sweet taste， and a distinct aroma of juglans and rose. It won the gold medal at Panama International Exposition in 1917 and its production process was listed in the first batch of Chongqing Municipal Intangible Cultural Heritage in May， 2007.

With a long history， Zhuoshui Mung Bean Powder in Qianjiang District is an indispensable choice for breakfast and dinner among local people. Made of Japonica rice， soybean and mung bean according to a certain proportion， the Mung Bean Power is produced with an emphasis on four processes of "soaking， grinding， baking and scalding". Given its simple and swift production process as well as soft and refreshing taste， it has become a popular food in Qianjiang.

In Pengshui， Yushan crispy cake， which is fragrant， sweet， crispy and crunchy， has a history of more than 200 years. The cake-rolling technique has been listed in Chongqing Municipal Intangible Cultural Heritage Hand made with refined ingredients， e.g. high-quality flour， malt sugar， sesame， soybeans， sweet-scented osmanthus， orange peel， it is a 100% natural health food. A celebrity once chanted about the aroma of sweet-scented osmanthus， "after tasting all the delicacies in the south of the Yangtze River， the finest I found is the hand-rolled crispy cake in Yushan Town."

The origin of Fengdu Spicy Diced Chicken can be traced back to the Tang and Song dynasties. Reputed for its bright red color， rich aroma， spicy and savory taste， chewy and delicate texture， it has won the honorary titles of "Chongqing time-honored brand"， "Chinese famous snack" and "Chongqing famous snack". Riding the wave of e-commerce， Fengdu Spicy Diced Chicken have been sold well at home and abroad.

In addition， folk activities centered upon food have also become municipal intangible cultural heritage programs. For example， the custom of making and sharing fete meals in Xiushan， the traditional custom of Tujia banquet in Pengshui， and Wansheng's tea-tree seedling long-table banquet all have strong regional characteristics and lure one to go home.

For long-time Chongqing dwellers， these delicacies are a kind palate memory， which mirrors the local customs of Bayu and contains the infinite attachment of its people. By visiting Chongqing and have a bite of the time-honored cuisines here， one can gain an insight of typical Chongqing life immersed in its kaleidoscopic food culture.

Photos/Publicity departments and cultural tourism committees of relevant districts and counties