一种有灵魂的烧烤

翟英华

齐齐哈尔（别称“鹤城”），松嫩平原上一颗璀璨的明珠，达斡尔语为“天然牧场”。丰富的自然资源，优美的生态环境，无污染的优质水源，为这座城市赢得了“绿色食品之都”的美誉。

Qiqihar， “natural pasture” in the Daur language， is a brilliant pearl on the Songnen Plain. It is alsoknown as the “Crane City” for its crane nature reserve. the abundant natural resources， beautiful ecologicalenvironment， and unpolluted high-quality water sources have earned this city the reputation of the “Capital ofGreen Food”.

這里居住着汉族、满族、蒙古族、朝鲜族、回族、达斡尔族等35 个民族。因长期以来有烧烤的饮食习惯，久而久之这座城市便形成了独特的饮食风尚，被世界中餐业联合会授予“齐齐哈尔国际（烤肉）美食之都”荣誉称号。这里的烤肉极具北方地域特色，有较高的传承价值，被列为市级非物质文化遗产代表性项目。

Here reside thirty-thve ethnic groups， including Han， Manchu， Mongolian， Korean， Hui， and Daur. Due tothe long-standing tradition of barbecue in their diet， a unique culinary style has emerged in this city， whichwas honored with the title of “Qiqihar Global （Barbecue） Food Capital” by the World Federation of ChineseCatering Industry. Deeply rooted in the northern region with profound cultural value， the local barbecue hasbeen listed as a representative project of the city’s intangible cultural heritage.

齐齐哈尔烤肉大规模的兴起是在20 世纪80 年代中后期，在全国乃至世界各地烧烤文化的影响下，新疆烤串、锦州烤肉、南美烤肉、韩式烤肉、朝鲜烤肉、土耳其烤肉、蒙古烤全羊等融入鹤城烧烤，造就了齐齐哈尔烤肉兼容并收的特点。当地烧烤行业，由“小餐饮”到“大产业”，日新月异，餐桌上的烧烤文化逐渐形成。

The widespread popularity of Qiqihar barbecue beganin the mid-to-late 1980s， influenced by barbecue culturesfrom all over China and the world. Elements from Xinjiangskewers， Jinzhou barbecue， South American barbecue， SouthKorean barbecue， North Korean barbecue， Turkish barbecue，Mongolian whole lamb barbecue， etc.， have blended into thebarbecue culture of the Crane City， giving it an eclectic charm.The local barbecue industry has evolved from small cateringbusinesses to a large-scale industry， gradually forming aunique barbecue culture on dining tables.

在齐齐哈尔，不分民族，无论男女老少，人人皆爱烧烤。烧烤成为一种特有的休闲方式，在野外、江边、小区旁、街边、烤吧、餐厅，到处都可以寻到烧烤的足迹。一齐齐哈尔小伙儿在江苏卫视著名的《非诚勿扰》节目中说道：“宁愿开一个烧烤店，也不打理珠宝店！”这从侧面肯定了齐齐哈尔烧烤在这座城市中的地位。

In Qiqihar， regardless of ethnicity， gender， or age，everyone loves barbecue as a unique form of leisure activity.Barbecue gatherings can be found everywhere — inthe wilderness， along the riverbanks， near residential areas，on the streets， at barbecue bars， and at the restaurants. Ayoung man from Qiqihar stated on the famous JiangsuTV reality show If You Are the One： “I would rather opena barbecue restaurant than run a jewelry store！”， athrmingthe high status of barbecue in this city.

如果以“外焦里嫩、喷香可口”来形容齐齐哈尔烧烤的味道，那么超越这种感知， 在精神引领和价值追求的意义上，齐齐哈尔烧烤是以“绿色、自然、健康、美味”作底料、以“独特、享受、狂放、野性、休闲、快乐”为灵魂的一种美食。齐齐哈尔市博物馆的大型烧烤文化展览，讲述了齐齐哈尔人和烤肉的故事，展现了鹤城烧烤文化别样的风情。

If Qiqihar barbecue is described as “crispy on theoutside， tender and aromatic on the inside”， then beyondthis gustatory perception， in terms of spiritual and valuepursuits， Qiqihar barbecue features “green， natural， healthy，and delicious” ingredients with “uniqueness， enjoyment，wildness， leisure， and happiness” as its soul. The QiqiharCity Museum holds large-scale barbecue cultureexhibitions to tell the stories between Qiqihar people andbarbecue， allowing visitors to experience the unique charmof barbecue culture in the Crane City.

齐齐哈尔“烧烤文化”的历史大约可追溯到一万年前，有考古学家发掘的动物烧骨为证。在齐齐哈尔昂昂溪滕家岗、五福新石器文化遗址都不同程度地发现了古人用火的痕迹。青铜器时代和铁器时代，烧烤成为嫩江流域先民们主要的食肉方式，为后人留下了渔猎文明的烧烤文化。

The history of Qiqihar “barbecue culture” canbe traced back approximately ten thousand years，evidenced by archaeologists’ discovery of animalbone remains from barbecue activities. Tracesof ancient people using fire have been found atAng’angxi Tengjiagang and Wufu Neolithic CulturalSites in Qiqihar. During the Bronze Age andIron Age， barbecue became the main way for theancestors of the Nen River Valley to consume meat，leaving behind a barbecue culture from the thshingand hunting civilization for later generations.

在齐齐哈尔吃烧烤是有讲究的，从选肉到拌肉，每一步都有门道。齐齐哈尔地处北纬47°的寒地黑土带—松嫩平原。松嫩平原牧草特别好，出产的黄牛和绵羊都是吃天然牧草长大的，肉质鲜嫩爽滑，品质高端。

In Qiqihar， barbecue is an art. From selectingthe meat to marinating it， every step has its secrets.Qiqihar is located at 47° north latitude， in the blacksoil belt of cold regions， the Songnen Plain. erefore，as the cattle and sheep feed on natural pastures， theexcellent grass makes the beef and mutton producedhere especially tender and smooth in high-quality.

最好吃的牛肉是两岁牛的紫盖、上脑、肋扇儿，瘦中带肥的最佳。放上烤盘，先用小块牛油擦拭篦子，把篦子放在点燃炭火的烤锅上，等牛肉烤到变色，肉质外焦里嫩，焦到酥脆可口，嫩到入口即化，蘸上用花生、芝麻等原材料制成的蘸料，咬上一口，香味瞬间在唇齿间融化，令人回味无穷。

The best beef includes two-year-old cattle’ssilverside， chuck， and rib finger， among which abalance of lean and fat is the perfect choice. Afterplacing the beef on the grill， brush the grill with smallpieces of beef fat， then place it on the charcoal fire.When the beef turns crispy on the outside and tenderon the inside， dip it into a sauce made from peanuts，sesame， and other ingredients. With a delightfulcrunch， it melts in your mouth while the flavorimmediately dances on your taste buds， leaving alingering aftertaste.

這里的农作物、蔬菜、瓜果多为有机无公害产品。烧烤除了烤牛肉，还可以烤大板、肉板、心管、腰子、宫后以及其他肉类，也可以烤蔬菜，如苦菊、油麦菜、香菜、菜椒、茄子、酸菜、藕片等，此外还有豆制品、菌类、薯类、海鲜、主食等。

The crops， vegetables， and fruits in Qiqiharare mostly organic and pollution-free products. Inaddition to beef， the barbecue includes various otherchoices include tendon， heart， kidney， and other meats，as well as vegetables like bitter chrysanthemum， oilseedrape， cilantro， bell pepper， eggplant， pickled cabbage，lotus root， and more. There are also soy products，mushrooms， potatoes， seafood， and staple foods.

烤肉除了原材料保留原汁原味，其配料、煨制、攪拌工艺也很讲究，拌肉全凭手感。葱、姜、洋葱、啤酒、豆油、盐等调料必不可少，放入的量、放入的时间等全靠经验和手上功夫，咸淡适宜，入味三分，拌油不能多一分，也不能少一分，几乎每个家庭都能培养出一两个“拌肉高手”。

In addition to preserving the original thavors of theingredients， the seasoning， cooking， and mixing arealso crucial. The process relies entirely on experienceand skills. Seasonings like scallion， ginger， onion， beer，soybean oil， salt， etc.， are essential， and the quantityand timing of adding them depend on the chef ’sexperience and skill. the perfect balance of seasoningsand right amount of oil make the meat extremelythavorful. Almost every family has one or two barbecuemasters in their own right.

蘸料可以说是齐齐哈尔烤肉的精髓，花生、芝麻、孜然、干辣椒、辣酱、饼干碎、味精和盐等，随心添加。烤熟的肉，蘸了不同的蘸料，味道就不一样了。烤肉所用的工具也千奇百怪，如铁签、炉、箱、车、帘、麦饭石、链条、铁板、铁网等。燃料有炭火和电火之分，炭火占绝大多数，分直接烤制和间接烤制。直接烤制又有明火、暗火之分，间接烤制也分为石板、铁板、铜板等多种。木炭分为果木炭和杂木炭，果木炭源自硬质木材，烧烤出的味道极佳。

The dipping sauce is said to be the essence ofQiqihar barbecue， which can be personalized withingredients like peanuts， sesame， cumin， dried chili，hot sauce， crushed biscuits， MSG， and salt. Differentdipping sauces create ditherent avors for the barbecue.The tools used for barbecue are various， such as ironskewers， stoves， boxes， carts， screens， maifanshi （atype of igneous rock used for grilling）， chains， ironplates， iron nets， etc. Fuel options include charcoaland electricity， with charcoal being the most common.there are direct grilling and indirect grilling methods，with direct grilling further divided into open thre andcovered fire， and indirect grilling into stone plates，iron plates， copper plates， etc. Fruitwood charcoal andmiscellaneous wood charcoal are the two main types ofcharcoal， with the former derived from hardwood andproducing an excellent barbecue thavor.

齐齐哈尔烧烤分为家庭式的“在野烧烤”、餐厅式的“在朝烧烤”以及介于两者之间牛羊肉店的“自在烧烤”。烤肉模式有白烤、泥烤、糊泥烤、串烤、腌烤、酥烤、挂糊烤、面烤、叉烤、钩吊烤、明炉烤、暗炉烤、铁锅烤、竹筒烤、篝火烤等多种烤法，彰显出烧烤的无限魅力。

Qiqihar barbecue can be classified into threetypes： family-style “wild barbecue”， restaurant-style“formal barbecue”， and something in between， the“casual barbecue” at beef and lamb restaurants.there are various methods of barbecue， includingplain grilling， mud grilling， mud-pasted grilling，skewer grilling， marinated grilling， crisp grilling，pasted grilling， pancake grilling， fork grilling， hookhanging grilling， open stove grilling， covered stovegrilling， iron pot grilling， bamboo tube grilling，bonthre grilling， and more， showcasing the inthnitecharm of barbecue.

每年的盛夏季节，齐齐哈尔都会举办大型“烤肉美食节”，人们欣赏鹤文化演出，吃各式烤肉，品尝本地特酿的“北大仓”酒，吟诵“齐齐哈尔烤肉赋”，书写、拍摄烧烤艺术作品，制作烧烤logo，举办烧烤文化论坛……烧烤在文人的笔下演绎成了舌尖上的“城市名片”。

During the peak of summer， Qiqihar hosts a large-scale“Barbecue Food Festival” where people enjoy crane culturalperformances， savor various barbecues， taste the locallybrewed “Beidacang” wine， recite odes to Qiqihar Barbecue， createartworks and logos related to barbecue， and hold barbecue cultureforums. Barbecue， depicted by writers and artists， has become the city’sname card on the tip of the tongue.

街边烧烤店门前，一排排遮阳伞下，伴随着“滋啦滋啦”烤肉的声响，三五好友围坐桌旁，吹着夜风，临着炭火，大快朵颐地吃肉，喝着冰啤谈天说地，肉香袅袅，如诗如雾，热烈又清凉，勾画出炎炎夏日鹤城一道亮丽的烧烤美食文化风景线。

In front of street-side barbecue shops， under rows of sunshades， the sizzlingsound of grilling accompanies friends sitting around the table. tey enjoy the nightbreeze， the charcoal thre， and the delicious meat while drinking cold beer and chatting.The aroma of barbecue fills the air like poetry and mist， warm yet refreshing， paintinga beautiful scene of barbecue culture in the scorching summer of the Crane City.