打卡中国最北城市

周道 何芷翌

漠河，一座遙远而又神秘的北方边陲小城，被称为中国最北部的“神州北极”。中俄界江黑龙江从这里发源，蜿蜒东流。人们因“极光”而知道她，因“最北”来寻觅她，因“幽静淳朴”去想念她。

Mohe， a distant and enigmatic small town situated on the northern border， has earned thenickname of “China’s North Pole”. The Heilongjiang River， which marks the boundary betweenChina and Russia， originates here and meanders eastward. Travelers are drawn to Mohe by hermesmerizing “aurora”， lured by her claim as the “northernmost” point and captivated by her sereneand unpretentious charm.

夏季的漠河，没有了白雪皑皑的梦幻，凉爽宜人。据气象历史数据显示，漠河的日均气温仅17℃。探访漠河，龙江第一湾必不可少。漠河的母亲河是额尔古纳河，她在漠河的洛古河村西北15 公里处与俄罗斯方向流过来的石勒喀河汇合，成为黑龙江的源头。滚滚的黑龙江沿着内、外兴安岭交界处的低谷，一路东流150 公里后，形成一个长度约30 公里的Ω 形弧度江湾，绝佳的地形让雄浑的江水急转回流、呼啸而去，阻挡江水的一侧壁立千仞、悬崖万丈，于是造就了与黄河、长江相媲美的龙江第一湾，也是中国最美九大江湾之一。

During the summer months， Mohe sheds its snowyand dreamlike appearance and instead offers a cooland pleasant climate. Historical weather data revealsthat Mohe experiences an average daily temperature ofjust 17℃. No trip to Mohe would be complete withoutvisiting the First Bend of the Heilongjiang River. TheArgun River serves as the mother river of Mohe，merging with the Shilka River flowing from Russia atLuogu River village， located 15 kilometers northwestof Mohe. This confluence marks the origin of theHeilongjiang River， which flows through the valley atthe junction of the Inner and Outer Khingan Range.After a 150-kilometer journey eastward， the river formsa stunning -shaped bend stretching for about 30kilometers. The landscape gives rise to a majestic sight，as the mighty river abruptly turns back and rushes forthwith towering cliffs on one side， creating the magnificent“First Bend of theHeilongjiang River”.this remarkable bendrivals the grandeurof China’s famousYellow River andYangtze River bends，earning its place asone of the country’smost stunning nineriver bends.

由于独特的地理位置，当夏至来临时，漠河昼长夜短，有接近19 个小时的日照。从加漠公路前往北极村，路旁笔直、秀朗的白桦树连成了一片，穿行于其间，感受着北国的静谧与安详，仿佛行走于自己的心灵之壁。美丽的额木尔河虬卧在宽阔的山谷中，在蓝天白云下蜿蜒曲折地流淌，形成了天然湿地美景“九曲十八弯”，这是大自然最美的馈赠。沿途风景就是旅行者和摄影者的打卡胜地。

Due to Mohe’s unique geographical location， thesummer solstice brings about long days and short nights，with nearly 19 hours of sunlight in the day. As youtake the Jiagedaqi-Mohe highway to the Beiji Village，an enchanting sight unfolds before you： a continuousstretch of straight， beautiful white birch trees liningthe road. Strolling amidst these trees， you can’t helpbut sense the tranquility and serenity of the northernregion， almost as if traversing the very depths of yourown soul. The picturesque Emur River fiows through thewide valley， meanderingunder the vast expanseof the blue sky andwhite clouds， forminga mesmerizing naturalwetland known as “NineCurves and EighteenTurns”. It’s a breathtakinggi f t f rom nature， amust-see destinationfor both travelers andphotographers alike.

以“北”著称的北极村，没有人群的喧嚣，炊烟袅袅，云霞漫天，张开手臂，整个中国都在你的怀抱。这里是中国唯一能欣赏“北极光”之地。每年夏至（6 月21 日前后）的午夜时分，向北眺望，如果天气好的话，便能看到天空微微泛白，午夜恍若黎明。有时，晚霞未逝，朝云又起，异彩纷呈，绚丽多姿。这便是人们所说的“白夜”和“北极光”。

The Beiji Village rests in a serene， remote northlandwhere the hustle and bustle of crowds fade away，replaced by wisps of smoke rising from chimneys， andthe sky seemingly stretching into eternity. Standinghere， you feel as though you could embrace the entiretyof China with outstretched arms. This place standsas the only location in China where one can marvelat the captivating “aurora borealis”. On the night of the summer solstice （around June 21st）， weatherpermitting， you can gaze northwards and witness afaint brightening of the sky， akin to a midnight dawn.Sometimes， with the lingering evening glow andemerging morning clouds， a kaleidoscope of vibrantcolors illuminates the landscape， creating a splendidspectacle known as the “white nights” and the “auroraborealis”.

打卡北極村，可不仅仅是为了观赏极光。来这里找“北”，这里有着许多中国的“最北点”。每一座山、每一条路都是“北”的尽头。中国最北教堂，在这里和你爱的人许下誓言，用一生来珍藏；中国最北邮局，从这里把最美漠河的回忆寄给自己；中国最北人家，留下来住一住木刻楞房，睡一睡热炕头……

However， the charm of the Beiji Village extendsbeyond the aurora. The village serves as a gateway tocountless northernmost points in China， with everymountain and road leading to the farthest reaches ofthe north. At China’s northernmost church， you canmake vows with your beloved， cherishing them for alifetime. At China’s northernmost post offce， you cansend your fondest memories of Mohe to yourself. Andat China’s northernmost homes， you can experiencethe cozy comfort of wooden log cabins and rest upon aheated kang （a stove-bed）...

你以为这就打卡了漠河？还不够。漠河石林是中国最北的石林，平均海拔1 200 米，绵延35 公里。大林河、古莲河、阿巴河、乌玛河及恩和哈达河五条河流发源于此。北纬53°的寒冷地带，冬季气温可达零下50℃。除了银装素裹、美不胜收的雪景，漠河市还拥有中国境内最大的冰川——黑河冰川。

Do you think that’sall there is to it， Mohe？Far from it！ Mohe is alsohome to the Mohe StoneForest， the northernmoststone forest in all ofChina， which spans animpressive 35 kilometersat an average elevation of 1，200 meters. It serves as the birthplace of fivemagnificent rivers： the Dalin River， the Gulian River，the Aba River， the Wuma River， and the EnhehadaRiver. Nestled in the frigid zone at an astounding 53°north latitude， Mohe experiences the chill of winterlike few other places. With temperatures plummetingto a bone-chilling —50°C， the region’s snowy landscapesbecome an ethereal sight. Mohe City also proudly boaststhe title of being home to China’s largest glacier —the Heihe Glacier.

沧海桑田，历史的长河孕育了文化，文化又传承了民族基因。这里的原住民鄂伦春族谙熟大自然的法则，靠着神秘的萨满洞悉未知的奥秘。他们有自己的语言，却没有文字，用绳索记录着历史。鄂伦春族人勇敢坚强，以渔猎为生，他们以鱼类、鹿肉、驯鹿肉等为主要食材，制作独特的美食，如鱼丸、鹿肉火锅等。在漠河，你可以亲身体验渔猎的乐趣，感受这种独特生活方式的魅力。

With the ebb and flow of time， the vast river ofhistory has nourished culture， and culture， in turn， haskept ethnic spirit intact. the indigenous Oroqen peopleare deeply attuned to the laws of nature， drawing on themystical knowledge of Shaman to unravel enigmaticsecrets. While possessing their own language， they lacka written script; instead， they use ropes to documenttheir history. These brave and resilient Oroqen peoplerely on fishing and hunting as their livelihood. Theirdiet features fish， deer meat， and reindeer meat，from which they skillfully craft unique delicacies likefish balls and deer meat hot pot. In Mohe， you canimmerse yourself in the delight of fishing and hunting，experiencing the allure of this distinctive way of lifefirsthand.

漠河的景点和故事很多，为人所知的又太少。漠河，不仅仅是“极光”“极北”“极寒”的代名词，这里还有着极寒之下温热真挚的情感。“如果有时间，你会来看一看我吧，看大雪如何衰老的，我的眼睛如何融化，如果你看见我的话，请转过身去再惊讶……”2021 年，一首《漠河舞厅》，因其背后那个真实感人的爱情故事，感动了无数人。故事发生在1987 年春，大兴安岭发生了震惊全国的特大森林火灾，八级大风让大火从森林蔓延到漠河县城。大树被风连根拔起，房屋瓦片卷入空中，58 000 多名军人、警察和村民经过28 个昼夜的奋力扑救，才将大火扑灭。火灾过后，人们在漠河市建了一座“五·六”火灾纪念馆。馆内全面展示了从起火、成灾、扑火、救灾到家园重建、生态恢复的全过程。

Mohe is a place of abundant attractions anduntold stories that have yet to reach the wider world.Beyond being synonymous with auroras， the extremenorth， and bitter cold， Mohe holds a deep reservoir ofsincere emotions beneath its icy surface. “If you havetime， would you come and see me？ See how the heavysnow ages， how my eyes melt. If you see me， pleaseturn around and then be surprised ...，” in the songcalled “Mohe Dance Hall”， which was released in 2021，the heartfelt and true love story captivated countlesshearts. The song is about the massive forest fire thatravaged the Greater Khingan Range in the spring of 1987 and sent shockwaves throughout the country.Fueled by a level-eight gale， the thre relentlessly spreadto Mohe County， causing havoc as trees were uprootedand roof tiles were swept into the air. More than 58，000soldiers， police oficers， and villagers fought for 28 daysand nights to extinguish the inferno. After the fire， a5/6 Fire Memorial Museum was established in Mohe.Inside the museum， the entire harrowing process ofthe re， from its ignition to disaster， thre suppression，disaster relief， home rebuilding， and ecologicalreconstruction， is painstakingly showcased.

《漠河舞厅》的男主角张德全在这场森林火灾中失去了热爱跳舞的妻子。思念从此就像一把枷锁，困住了这个用情至深的人。在余后的30 多年，他未婚、无子，他用独舞这样的浪漫方式怀念著一生最爱的人：我永远思念你，你便永远存在。他用一辈子，在漠河诠释了真挚、热烈的爱情。

The song depicts the tale ofZhang Dequan， who tragicallylost his wife， a passionate dancer，in that fire. From that momenton， longing gripped him like ashackle， imprisoning his deeplyaffectionate soul. For morethan three ensuing decades，he remained unmarried andchildless. He turned to the art ofsolo dancing — a poignant andromantic expression to keep thememory of their love alive， “I will forever yearn for you， and you will forever dwell in myheart.” Throughout his journey， he found the essenceof sincere and passionate love amidst the enchantinglandscapes of Mohe.

是時候来漠河了吧？

Isn’t it about time we made a trip to Mohe？

和你挚爱的人来体验一下十几个小时的雪国列车，听一曲周杰伦的《一路向北》，在列车的“哐当”声中穿越莽莽林海、感受雪国风光，一起目睹极光的绚烂，与驯鹿来一次亲密接触，去拥抱北纬53°的风。

Imagine this： Embark on a picturesque snowycountry train journey that stretches over ten hours，hand in hand with your beloved. As you traverse vastforests and snowy landscapes， Jay Chou’s melodioussong “All the Way North” perfectly harmonizes withthe rhythmic clatter of the train. Witness the aweinspiringspectacle of the Northern Lights， get readyfor an up-close encounter with graceful reindeer， andembrace the winds at 53° north latitude.

看看不输于贝加尔湖的“冰泡”湖，在茫茫的林海雪原上玩一次时下流行的“滴水成冰”。

Discover the enchantment of the “ice bubbles”lake， a worthy rival to Lake Baikal， and witness waterdroplets freezing amidst the vast snowy forest.

体验一下马拉爬犁驰骋雪地的快感，享受一次冰雪奇缘中滑雪的“嗨翻天”。

Race through the snowy terrain on a sled pulled byspirited horses and experience the pure joy of skiing inthis frozen wonderland.

更重要的是和你珍惜的人一起站在这片土地上，迎过它的风，看过它的雪，走过它童话般的白桦林，到过一生一定要去一次的最北之地——漠河。

Yet， above all else， stand on this remarkable landwith those you hold dear， embrace the winds， marvelat the snow， and wander through the birch forest.Finally， make a pilgrimage to Mohe， the northernmostdestination that you simply must experience at leastonce in a lifetime.