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传奇养马岛

2022-06-22肖寒

走向世界 2022年21期
关键词:白马海岛小岛

肖寒

養马岛,位于烟台东北约30公里的黄海中。她西高东低,四面环海,面积约10平方公里。

旧时,养马岛叫作“莒岛”,归属宁海州(今烟台市牟平区)管辖。据传,春秋时,莒国灭亡后,莒人流亡奔徙至此繁衍生息,便把小岛命名为“莒岛”。明代嘉靖《宁海州志》记载:“莒岛,在州北一十里,本莒岛社地。其土肥沃,其山秀丽,中多古墓。”

“莒岛”是在清代更名为“养马岛”的。清代同治《重修宁海州志》告诉后人:“莒岛,在州北十里,今呼养马岛。”

相传,养马岛的得名和秦始皇东巡有关。公元前219年秋天,始皇东巡,登芝罘,射大鱼。跋涉途中,他看到了苍茫大海中的海岛祥云萦绕,流光溢彩,丛林中万马奔腾,时隐时现。他挥鞭一指远处:“好一个养马岛。”皇上开了金口,臣下遵旨照办,就开始在这里蓄养战马。逐渐地,人们就称这里为“养马岛”了。

曾有一个时期,养马岛还被叫作“象岛”。起因是岛东北方的海里漂曳着一座小岛,形似大象浴水,取名“象岛”。“象岛”一度喧宾夺主,取代了养马岛的名号。

养马岛是否真的因为秦始皇东巡得名,众说纷纭。牟平文史专家考证后认为是牵强附会。后来又有人提出“戚继光养马说”,但也缺乏史料佐证。不过,早先养马岛上还真养过马,且有遗址可寻。岛东有一袖珍小村叫“马埠崖”,村南峭壁下有一片沼泽地,相传此地专为擒马之用。

“马”是养马岛的标志。在岛中,远远便可看到那尊凌空腾飞、巍耸于50多米高铁塔之上的巨大白马雕塑,周围是占地7.2万平方米的白马广场。广场四周松柏翠绿、花团锦簇,巨大的秦皇雕塑,让人依稀可见当年始皇帝的雄风。

从白马广场向东行约1公里,就是占地19万平方米的养马岛赛马场。从1985年开始至今,这里先后承接了全国马术赛、国际马联障碍赛、六运会马术赛等国内外重大体育比赛,不但是一处重要的体育场所,还成为独具特色的旅游景点。这里,常年举行赛马活动,还开展骑马、古式马拉车、射箭、射击等活动,驰马奔将,枪挑剑击,常令观众看得如痴如醉。

有人说,养马岛的点睛之美在一个“马”字,是“马”让小岛活了起来。其实不然,养马岛的美也在融于秀美大自然的山海风光。古人曰:山不在高,有仙则名;水不在深,有龙则灵。身处山水间的养马岛,古时候就有道人前来求经问道,寻找长生不老之药;千万年来,苍茫的大海更是孕育了海岛的深邃辽远,千般灵秀。

大自然的鬼斧神工,雕琢出这片仙山琼岛的清灵与俊秀:岛前海面宽阔,风平浪静;岛后群礁嶙峋,惊涛拍岸;东端碧水金沙,是优良浴场;西端水深浪小,成天然良港。登上岛顶,透过观澜亭明丽的窗口,向四周眺望,可见海天一色,浑然天成,苍茫的水面上渔帆点点,千舟竞发;嶙峋的礁石上,垂钓者挥竿扬线,好不畅快。

大多数游客上岛,要么直奔“前后海”,要么直奔“木栈道”,总之主题都是“大海”。但也有一部分游客对岛上传统民居产生了浓厚的兴趣,总会选择多走几步进村体验这里的人文风景。

养马岛现有8个村,其中孙家疃、马埠崖、黄家庄3个村的传统民居保留较多,曾引起以建筑专业闻名的同济大学的关注。据同济大学相关调研,养马岛当时之所以对建筑文化特别重视,是因为有富裕的家底作为支撑。

正所谓“仓廪实而知礼节”。海岛以捕鱼为业,这是人们头脑中的传统印象。但清代中后期随着海运逐渐兴起,养马岛上很多村庄都以经商跑船为业,打鱼反而成为副业。志称:“养马岛富甲全县。”因此这一时期养马岛上也大兴土木,草房难见,砖瓦大房比比皆是,许多建筑恢弘大气,保存至今。

古代皇家养马场,今天游人养马岛,风光流转两千年。当余晖为这座小岛的山山水水抹上一层绯红,夕阳中的岛屿悠然而恬静:袅袅炊烟在远远近近的传统村舍上空缭绕,落帆的船儿正缓缓驶进港湾,养马岛又回归了宁静。

Yangma (Horse Raising) Island is located in the Yellow Sea, about 30 km northeast of Yantai. Higher in the west, lower in the east, it is surrounded by the sea on four sides, with an area of about 10 km2.

In the autumn of 219 BC, Qin Shihuang (First Emperor of Qin) shot a big fish in Zhifu during his Eastern Tour. On the way, he saw an island enveloped in auspicious clouds on the vast sea, with flowing light and galloping horses in the forest. Waving his horsewhip, he pointed at the distance and said, “What a wonderful Horse Raising Island!” Gradually, the island began to be known as“Yangma (Horse Raising) Island”.

However, there were indeed horses on the island. We can still find related ruins. In the east of the island, there is a tiny village named“Mabuya”, in the south of which, there is a wetland under a cliff. It is said that this place was used for capturing horses.

The beauty of the island lies in the mountain and sea scenery beautifully integrated by nature. There is an ancient saying that goes, “A mount needs not be high; it becomes noted when on it fairies dwell. A body of water needs not be deep; it would become spiritual, if a dragon makes it its resting place.” On the island amid mountains and waters, there were Daoists coming to appreciate the basic laws of nature and life and seeking an elixir of immortality in ancient times. For millennia, the vast sea has nurtured the profoundness, remoteness and delicacy of the island.

Under the uncanny workmanship of nature, the pureness and beauty of this immortal island has been formed. In front of the island, there is a broad and calm sea; behind the island, there are jagged reefs and waves beating the shore; in the east, there are clear waters and golden sand, which constitute a fine bath; in the west, there are deep waters and small waves, which form a natural harbor. On the top of the island, looking around through the bright window of the Guanlan Pavilion, you could see the sea and the sky naturally merging into one; fishing boats vying on the vast sea; anglers waving their fishing poles or spinning the reels, enjoying the moment on jagged rocks.

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