你与湖州的距离只差这些美味
2021-07-29韩刚
韩刚
湖州,地处太湖之滨,山清水秀,自古以来是江南的鱼米之乡。湖州美食众多,对于土生土长的湖州人来说,每一份熟悉的家乡菜肴,都能勾起心底那段美好的童年记忆。而你与湖州的距离,或许只差这些美味。
Lying along on the shores of Taihu Lake, Huzhou has been a land of fish and rice since ancient times. For the local people, every one of Huzhous many delicacies could stir some of their fondest childhood memories. Dear readers, you are just ten delicious dishes away from Huzhou.
细沙羊尾
Red Bean Paste “Lamb Tail”
记得长辈们经常会提起,在他们那个时候的细沙羊尾是用新鲜猪油配合红豆沙做成的,做工复杂,但是口感和现在的是完全不同的。其实,很多东西都是这样,口感会随着时间的变化而变化。
First, a caveat: this delicacy is not actual lamb tail. Made of red bean paste, lard, egg white and glutinous rice flour, before being wrapped into balls and fried, it is so called because it resembles lamb tail.
爆鳝丝
Shredded Eels
爆鳝丝是湖城的传统特色名菜。色、香、味俱佳,远近闻名。相传,乾隆游江南到了长兴,品尝此菜后赞叹不绝。该特色菜后被列为宫廷名肴。
A famed local dish, “Shredded Eels” was said to have won profuse praise from Emperor Qianlong (1711-1799), who tried it during one of his southern tours. Later, it was included as an imperial dish.
生煎肉餅
Pan-fried Meat Patty
第一口很惊艳,酥脆可口有肉味。但是吃完第一个可能会略微有点腻,不过现在想想,回味还是很好的。
Mix marinated minced meat with soy sauce, sugar and other seasonings, make them into patties and fry them, then you get the crunchy pan-fried meat patty.
玫瑰酥糖
Rose Crunchy Candy
玫瑰酥糖,是湖州四大名点之首,极富江南传统风味。玫瑰酥糖.以白砂糖、芝麻、玫瑰酱、精面粉、麦芽糖为原料,其质地油润细腻,香气浓郁,味甜适口。从外形看是外圈白,中间灰,心子红。白的是以薄如纸的麦芽糖浆裹以米面粉,中间灰的是拌了黑芝麻粉,心子是玫瑰加粉,比麻将牌略大的一块酥糖,要做得如此细致实在不易,集香甜润滑酥软于一身,具有健胃润肺、健身强身之效,老少皆宜。
One of the most popular sweets in Huzhou, the rose crunchy candies take sugar, sesame, rose paste, flour and malt as ingredients. Fresh roses are often pickled with sugar for months long to obtain the best aroma. They then are made into bars of candy before being sliced into square pieces and packed into paper bags. With a strong rose scent and a crunchy-chewy texture, the rose crunchy candies are suitable for people of all ages.
刘家大蹄
Liu Familys Braised Ham Hock
湖州南浔人吃的蹄髈有个专门的名字叫“浔蹄”,已有百年历史。据说,浔蹄得以问世并流传下来,还得靠“南浔四象”首富——刘镛,是他家创造了“浔蹄秘方”,因此浔蹄也叫做刘家大蹄。后来该配方传到民间,采用民间传统工艺烧制而成,便成为家家户户年夜饭餐桌上的一道主打菜。
以传统古法烧制而成的大蹄色泽红润、口感软糯、味道咸鲜、香而不腻。“蹄”谐音“提”,寓意新的一年万事要“提起来”,因此年年吃蹄子也是为了讨个好彩头。
A local delicacy in Nanxun district, Huzhou city, Liu familys braised ham hock has a history of over a hundred years. It is so named, it is said, because it used to be a secret recipe of the richest family, the Liu family, in Nanxun. Later, when the recipe was “leaked”, more and more people were able to taste the delicious ham hocks, and the dish has gradually become a household food.
千张包子
Steamed Dumplings Wrapped with Tofu Skins
千张包子在湖州是一種名特产,基本上不会有别的地区存在这种千张包子,主要原料为面粉、猪肉、开洋、干贝等。肉嫩而不腻,香气四溢,风味独特,营养丰富。
This unique dish can only be found in the Huzhou area. The fillings used for the steamed dumplings are mainly made of minced lean meat, dried shrimp and dried scallop, among others. The tofu skin wrappers then give these dumplings a special taste.
熏豆茶
Roasted Green Bean Tea
熏豆茶又称烘豆茶,江浙一带尤以湖州南浔为主的地方传统饮茶习俗。是一道以熏豆为主料,加上其他辅料一齐冲泡而成的茶点。辅料一般为胡萝卜干、桔皮、桂花、芝麻和绿茶叶等,另有讲究的人家还加入黑豆腐干、扁尖、笋尖或青橄榄等。
在我国古典文学著作中,常提到“熏豆子茶”“木樨青豆茶”,那即是经茶叶、熏豆等泡制的茶饮。《易牙遗意》载:明代已有“盐豆”,是用新黄豆淘净,再用盐水、调料煎煮,烘至汤干,再在火上焙干。到了清朝,以嫩青豆用盐水煮后熏烘,这已与今日的熏青豆无多大差别了。喝熏豆茶,先要制作熏青豆,“沸釜盐汤香乍发,烘炉炭火气微谙;加笾爱此好颜色,冬蓄闺中多豆甘”,这首诗形象地描绘了江南女子制作熏青豆时的欢乐心情。
Drinking roasted green bean tea is a popular pastime in the south of the Yangtze River, especially in Nanxun, Huzhou. It is brewed with roasted green beans as the main ingredient, coupled with dried carrot slices, orange peels, osmanthus, sesame and green tea leaves, among others. Sometimes, dried black bean curd slices, bamboo shoot or green olives are also added.
老法虾仁
Shrimp Meat Cooked in the Traditional Method
湖州阡陌纵横,水网密布,盛产鱼虾,湖州人常用河虾现挤虾仁,生煸成肴,世代沿袭,故名老法虾仁。老法虾仁,即将虾仁上浆,旺火宽油滑熟,配以火腿、海参、香菇等高档辅料,使菜色鲜丽悦目,虾仁质地软嫩,食之汁清不腻,味鲜爽脆。
Abundant fish and shrimp can be found in Huzhou, thanks to its abundant water resources. For generations, Huzhou people have squeezed meat out of fresh shrimps and then stir-fry them with ham, sea cucumber or mushroom, among other ingredients. Hence the name Lao Fa Xia Ren, or “Shrimp Meat Cooked in the Traditional Method”.
太湖醉白虾
Taihu Lake Drunken Shrimp
醉虾这种食物的吃法并不算太特殊,但是太湖的醉白虾也是江南菜式中的一绝。活虾直接浸入黄酒,盖上盖子便可等待醉虾的浓郁口感了。这种吃法既有鲜虾的鲜甜口感,又能让人品尝到醇厚的酒香。
Rinse the fresh white shrimps with clean water, marinate them into a pot of rice wine together with some ginger, garlic and pepper, and put on the lid. After another 20 to 30 minutes, you will be able to enjoy the “alcoholic” delicacy.
太湖清蒸白鱼
Steamed Taihu Lake White Fish
太湖白鱼肉质细腻,鳞下脂肪多,酷似鲥鱼,是太湖的一种名贵鱼类,与银鱼、白虾并称“太湖三白”而扬名四海,早在1300多年前就被老百姓夸为“太湖第一鱼”,是宴请客人、招待贵宾的首选菜。此菜选用太湖白鱼,采用简单而不失味真的清蒸烹饪方式,这是白鱼最佳的烹饪方法,配以料酒、姜、盐,生抽、白糖、蒸鱼豉等蒸制而成,是南太湖最受宠的菜肴之一。
Together with white shrimp and silver fish, white fish is popularly known as one of the "Three Whites" of Taihu Lake. As a precious species, white fish has been called “the First Fish of the Taihu Lake” since 1,300 years ago, and is the first and foremost dish to treat guests. With cooking wine, ginger, salt, soy sauce and sugar, among other ingredients, white fish is often steamed before being served.
湖州大馄饨
Huzhou Big Wonton
湖州大馄饨,是浙江一道非常有名的小吃,历史悠久。以猪腿肉、笋衣、芝麻、葱末、白糖、味精、芝麻油、绍酒、精盐等配制成馅,馄饨煮熟后放入肉骨汤中,撒以葱末、蛋皮丝而成。皮薄馅多,汤鲜味美。
One of the most popular food not only in Huzhou but all over Zhejiang, Huzhou Big Wonton takes minced meat, bamboo shoots, sesame and a variety of other ingredients as fillings. When the dumplings are boiled, they are put into bone broth, topped with some chopped scallion and shredded egg crepe, before being served.
白灼魚圆
Huzhou Fish Balls
湖州的鱼圆用太湖白鱼做的,鱼肉的腥味几乎没有,入口即化,是“肉感”很浅、非常清淡的鱼圆。据说文王熊赀一次食鱼时被刺卡住了喉,当即发落厨师。 此后,文王食鱼,厨师必先斩鱼头、剥鱼皮、剔鱼刺,剁细制成鱼丸。
Made of Taihu Lake white fish paste, the Huzhou fish balls are known for their tender texture and fresh flavor. It is said that Xiong Zi, a king of the State of Chu during the Spring and Autumn period, enjoyed eating fish, but he once had a fish bone stuck in his throat, for which he angrily executed the cook. To avoid such a fate, his cooks later would always shave off the meat, grind it into paste and make it into fish balls.
湖式剪羊肉
Braised Lamb in Huzhou Style
湖羊产于太湖周边及临近地区,它源于北方蒙古羊,南宋时期随北方移民南下带入太湖地区饲养、繁衍。湖羊属于羔羊品种,个体小。湖羊肉肥而不腻、细嫩爽口,下火锅较好,较有特色的还有湖式剪羊肉、洗沙羊尾。
湖式剪羊肉是湖州的传统名菜,属补阳食谱、壮腰健肾食谱和肢寒畏冷食谱。此菜选用湖羊烹制,肉质肥嫩、色泽红润、香酥软烂、汁浓味醇,系冬令时菜。
A traditional local dish, braised lamb in Huzhou style is generally considered a delicacy during the winter. The dish is best known for the tasty lamb, which comes from the Hu sheep, raised around the Taihu Lake and its surrounding areas. Originally of the Mongolian breed, Hu sheep was introduced to the Taihu Lake area during the Southern Song dynasty.