影子之城：三星堆故乡的浮生百态

杨沁

2021年3月，考古人员在四川广汉三星堆遗址新发现的6座 “祭祀坑”中出土了500余件重要文物，包括黄金面具残片、青铜神树、象牙等。当这些造型瑰丽、风格奇特，蕴含着对宇宙的浪漫想象的文物展示在公众面前时，人们不仅从中看到明朗闪耀的古蜀文明之光，也对中华文明的多元性和包容性有了更大的认识空间。而三星堆遗址所在的小城——四川省广汉市，也吸引了众多目光。

我自幼生长在这座成都平原东北部的小城，少时，并不觉得自己的家乡有何特殊之处。彼时，三星堆虽然已经“沉睡三千年，一醒惊天下”，但普通人关注的，还是衣食住行这些日常琐事。只有在一些不经意偶遇的瞬间，还能从小城的细节里捕捉到些许历史的痕迹。比如城中心立有一座古城門，上面有一个古意盎然的“雒”字，广汉古称雒县，县治在雒城，自古便是成都的门户。《三国演义》中，庞统率军攻取雒城，途中在落凤坡遭遇埋伏，中箭身亡。而城门后面的房湖公园，亦有一段故事。何谓房湖？乃因唐朝宰相房琯贬黜于此建湖而得名。房琯引来了粼粼波光，也带来了诗文雅兴，杜甫流落成都期间曾前来雒城拜访故友，两人坐在湖边，饮酒对诗。

到民国年间，广汉出了一位显赫人物：荣膺国民政府首任考试院院长戴季陶。1941年，正值抗日战争胶着之际，戴季陶倡导编纂广汉县志。此时，中央研究院史语所从昆明内迁至四川李庄，当时私人兴办的研究中国传统营造学的学术团体——营造学社正苦于无力进行大规模古建筑调查，营造学社的两位建筑专家梁思成、刘致平便受托前往广汉，为这座古城留下了一套包含560张照片的完整影像。当代作家萧易在系统整理这些照片的基础上，加上文字注解，遂成《影子之城》。

透视整个20世纪，中国的城市面貌在家国命运的跌宕中经历了急遽的翻转和蜕变。西方文化的冲击催生出对现代化的热切崇拜，加上战争和运动的破坏，传统建筑迅速消亡，诚如梁思成所言：“纯中国式之秀美或壮伟的旧市容，或破坏无遗，或仅存大略。”但古城广汉的幸运在于，在梁思成留下的照片里，它的建筑样貌和人情百态都得以保存了下来，古老县城的雕梁画栋、飞檐翘角都在影像中凝结为永恒的存在。

城墙环绕城池，文庙祭祀孔子、魁星阁供奉魁星，各省会馆各自彰显其地域特色，宗祠里布满家族的秩序和记忆……这些古中国每座城市必不可少的空间，都在影像与文字的交融中一一复原。更加重要的是，作者在诠释这些影像时虽以建筑为中心，却能自在穿梭于各种传说、史实、典故、民俗中，旁征博引，如数家珍。譬如讲到广汉文庙，作者不仅一步一景地细数这座古建筑的精细与巧妙，更能从历史角度梳理出文庙的起源与沿革：从鲁哀公纪念孔子到汉高祖刘邦开帝王祭孔先河，从唐太宗诏令“庙学一体”到清代确定文庙布局。在建筑的演变之外，还钩沉出官学的发展脉络，从而见微知著，在文庙这方小小天地中勾勒出儒家文化在城市空间中的印迹。可以说，这本书不仅包含建筑，还有中国文化史的意义。

建筑固然精妙，赋予其情致的还是周围的人群。透过一张张沉默无言的黑白影像，一座城池渐渐发出穿越时光的声响。重檐歇山顶门楼内，戴斗笠的农民刚刚与挑布匹的货郎擦肩而过;白发苍苍的老者正在屋檐下晾晒衣服;钟鼓楼底层的戏台传出咿咿呀呀的唱念做打之声。而城隍庙山门“白色的石灰墙被灰尘与世间染得黢黑，雕花柱础上的图案早已模糊不清，一株枝繁叶茂的泡桐树爬上了弯曲的风火墙……蒸着粉蒸肥肠、粉蒸牛肉，光着膀子的摊主正拨弄着土炕的柴火”，这样温热的世俗生活场面至今仍然可以在中华大地上找到对应的图景。这座“影子之城”是一座仍然活着而热气腾腾的城市。

对我而言，书中的地名都有特殊的意味。花市街、米市街、梓潼街、书院街、松林镇、南丰镇……每当看到这些儿时便耳熟能详的名字，我都忍不住心中一动，埋藏在记忆深处的风景像一盏又一盏的渔火相继亮起来，星星点点，此起彼伏，连成一片。而我相信，即使与广汉从未有过现实交集的读者，也会在阅读中产生这样“心动”的时刻，这些地名可以置换成任何读者熟悉的名字，这种烟火气是融入每个中国人的血液里的，象征着动荡人生中难得的安稳和美好，这些熟悉、亲切、宛如父辈邻人的面孔会通往每个人心中隐秘的故土之思。

书中讲人世之处富有世态之美，讲神仙之处也不是凌空虚蹈，而是重视他们与人的来往，似乎神仙也和人在宗教的崇拜之外，建立了某种世俗关系。

例如，魁星阁中供奉的魁星“一手持笔，一手提乌纱帽，其他地方的魁星持的则是毛笔与墨斗，广汉人对功名的渴望似乎来得更为直接”，令人莞尔。不过随着科举制度废除，这位坦率可爱的魁星渐渐失宠，“往者熙来攘往，今日门可罗雀，1941年的魁星，似乎犹能体会人情冷暖。20世纪50年代，魁星阁被拆除，失去了容身之所，那尊憨厚的魁星下落不明”，又让人遗憾不已。再者，1965年，龙兴寺的木材、砖瓦被悉数拆掉，五百罗汉没了栖身之所，“终日日晒雨淋，生出青苔，爬上杂草，眉目也日渐模糊”。其后，“五百罗汉泥塑的身躯被砸成碎块……身躯里的木头架子，被周围的百姓捡起来，当成烧饭的柴火。五百罗汉就这样归为尘土，化作青烟”。

20世纪中国社会的变迁，都在神仙的遭遇里尽数呈现。读至这些章节，读者忍不住要为神仙发一声慨叹，神仙亦有无计可施、自身难保之时，甚至在人世沉浮中更加柔弱。好在，神灵会再次降临到恢复理性的人们中。作者考察迄今广汉保存最好的祠堂益兰祠时，发现老君观已迁至此处。“张氏家族的故事，在烟雾缭绕的香火中隐约可见。”这一句写得甚有神韵，渡尽劫波，人与神之间似乎不再有上下之分，而似兄弟旧友，重新建立了亲密无间的关系。

今天，我们捧起《影子之城》时不禁感慨，与其说营造学社当年留下了广汉的面貌，不如说以一县为范本，留下了古老的中国县城的缩影，以及隐藏在建筑背后的人与城市的互动。中国人对世俗生活的珍惜、对人伦礼法的重视、对威仪信仰的敬畏，都在建筑的诉说中一一铺展。“影子”既是时间意义上的重叠：1941年的广汉与当下的广汉在影像中相遇，通过这个承袭历史的时代，我们能更好地理解当下“三星堆的故乡”;也是空间意义上的交错：它是古老中国城市的影子，所有的城市都能在这里找到共鸣。

A City of Shadows： Life in the Hometown of Sanxingdui

By Yang Qin

Archaeologists found six new sacrificial pits and uncovered over 500 cultural relics dating back about 3，000 years at the Sanxingdui Ruins in Sichuan province in March 2021. Artefacts including gold masks， gold foil， bronze masks， bronze trees have since been unveiled to the public. These rare and dazzling items with ancient imaginations about the universe once again showed the distinctiveness and creativity of the Shu culture， and， more importantly， the diversity and inclusiveness of the Chinese civilization. Naturally， the city where these pieces were discovered has again been put into spotlight.

Growing up in Guanghan， a small county-level city located in the northeast of Chengdu Plains， I never found my hometown special when I was young， even though the Sanxingdui Ruins， a major Bronze Age culture lying dormant for over 3，000 years， had already stunned the world and the city was pretty well-known. Local people just went about their business as usual， and occasionally some traces of the past can be found. Even notable historical figures are few and far between.

During the Three Kingdoms period （220-280）， Pang Tong （179-214）， an advisor and military strategist to Liu Bei （161-223）， founder of the state of Shu Han （221-263）， was said to have been shot dead here. Fang Guan （697-763）， a chancellor in the Tang dynasty （618-907）， once lived in the city when he was demoted to serve as the local prefect， and Du Fu （712-770）， a close friend of Fangs， visited Fang after he also fell out of favor with the emperor.

Into the Republican years， an influential figure of Guanghans own was finally born. The Guanghan native Dai Jitao （or Tai Chi-tao） became the first head of Examination Yuan of the Republican government. In 1941， when Chinas resistance war against Japan was waging on， Dai called for the compilation of Guanghans annals， especially photographing the citys architecture as its ancient buildings were fast disappearing at the time. Liang Sicheng （1901-1972） and Liu Zhiping （1909-1995）， two of the foremost architects from the Society for the Study of Chinese Architecture， were drafted for the job. The result？ A total of 560 photos detailing Guanghan. Based on these photos， with further annotations， Xiao Yi has now written and published the book A City of Shadows： Liang Sicheng and Guanghan in 1939-1941.

Throughout the 20th century， the faces of Chinese cities underwent unprecedented changes amid Chinas ups and downs. The undue glorification of modernization， a result of the dramatic impact of the Western culture， coupled with wars and political movements， all but destroyed Chinas traditional architecture. As Liang Sicheng once lamented： “The old cities in pure Chinese-style beauty or grandeur either have been completely demolished or have only the skeletons left.” Fortunately for Guanghan， the citys old architecture and even folk customs have been preserved through Liang Sichengs photos， its past immortalized in these precious pictures.

Walls and moats around square-like city， the Confucian Temple， the Kuixing （God of Literature） Pavilion， the Assembly Halls of different provinces with distinct regional features， and the ancestral halls…each and every essential element of an ancient Chinese city has been restored in Xiao Yis book through photos and words. More crucially， while the authors annotations on the photos focus on architecture， rich details， including legends， historical facts， classical allusions， folklores， have been expertly interwoven into the text. For example， when writing the Confucian Temple in Guanghan， the author dwells not only on the merits of the temple itself， but also delves into the evolution of the Confucian Temple throughout Chinese history： how the Duke Ai of Lu during the Spring and Autumn period was the first ruler to commemorate Confucius， how the founder of the Han dynasty was the first emperor to hold the memorial ceremony for Confucius， and how the architectural layout of the Confucian Temple was fixed in the Qing dynasty.

It is more than a book of architecture; to some extent， it is also a book of Chinese cultural history.

Ultimately， it is people that have made these exquisite buildings come alive. Under the city gate with a double-eave hip-and-gable roof， a farmer in a bamboo hat was brushing past an itinerant peddler shouldering pieces of cloth. A gray-headed old man was drying out clothes under the eaves. A local opera was playing on the stage at the bottom of the Bell and Drum Tower… In those silent black-and-white photos， the noise and din of the colorful city life seem reverberating.

To me， the book， and the names of the places in the book， lends a personal touch. Huashi Street （Flower Market Street）， Mishi Street （Rice Market Street）， Shuyuan Street （Academy Street）…whenever these familiar names appear in the book， they tug at my heartstrings， memories buried deep in my mind popping up like fishermens lights at night. Even for those readers who have never set foot in Guanghan， I believe they would have similar emotions， for this is the epitome of a peaceful and happy Chinese life， transposable to any city or town in China.

Now， as we read A City of Shadows， we may well say that what Liang Sicheng and Liu Zhiping left behind is not merely what the architecture of Guanghan used to look like; it is more an embodiment of ancient Chinese cities and the interactions between man and cities hidden in these ancient buildings. The shadows are overlaps between Guanghan in 1941 and Guanghan right now; they are also the shadows of old Chinese cities， from which all of their modern reincarnations can find resonance.