The European City That Loves Strangers—Athens热爱陌生人的欧洲城市——雅典
2021-03-24
Few cities in the world rival the antiquity of Athens, where people have lived continuously for thousands of years. Athenians created the first forms of democracy, the plays and philosophy that shaped Western civilization, and the classical buildings that still dot the Acropolis.
Amid the ancient ruins, another survivor of the centuries is the Greek concept of philoxenia—a term that directly translates as “love of strangers”, but which locals define more as a warmth that makes foreigners feel immediately welcomed when they come to the capital city. “The people can be very hospitable and friendly,” agreed Julian Williams, who moved from London in 2009.
Though more than 4.5 million people visit the city every year to delve into its past, Athens has plenty in its present to make it worth staying for the longer term.
Why do people love Athens?
The always-on atmosphere of Athens attracts Greeks and expats alike. “Athens is a buzzing city,” said Chrissy Manika, an Athens native and blogger at Travel Passionate. “No matter when you go out you will see the cafes and bars filled with people having a good time.” She especially likes wandering the city center neighborhood of Plaka, on the north-east side of the Acropolis. “With all the tourists around, it feels like you are on holiday on an island, especially in summer.”
With more than 250 days of sunshine annually, that summer can feel endless. “By my standards, ‘summer’ in Athens lasts from late April to late October,” said Mina Agnos. The weather makes it especially easy to get away to nearby islands for a weekend getaway. Williams recommends Hydra, where cars are prohibited and people get around the island by riding donkeys and mules or leisurely walking its idyllic city streets, which mostly lack street signs. Though long popular with celebrities and artists, the island retains its laid-back lifestyle with plentiful cafes and contained crowds, thanks to the limited number of hotels.
世界上很少有城市能在古跡方面与雅典匹敌,雅典是一座千百年来生生不息的城市。雅典人创造了最早形式的民主、戏剧和哲学,塑造了西方文明,直到今天卫城仍然被经典建筑所点缀。
在众多历史久远的废墟中,另一个历经千百年仍然流传下来的就是希腊词语philoxenia的概念——它直译为“热爱陌生人”,而当地人则赋予它更多,让外国人一踏上这座古都的土地,就能立即感受到宾至如归的热情。“人们非常热情好客。”2009年从伦敦移居到此的朱利安·威廉姆斯深表赞同。
虽然每年有超过450万的游客前来探究它的过去,但是现在的雅典也有很多令人留恋的地方。
人们为什么喜欢雅典呢?
雅典始终不变的氛围吸引着希腊人和侨民。“雅典是一个喧闹的城市。”雅典本地人兼激情旅行网的博主克里希·曼尼卡说道,“无论何时出门,你总能看到人们在咖啡馆和酒吧愉快地消遣。”她尤其喜欢在市中心的普拉卡(位于卫城东北边)周边散步。“看着周围的游客,你会感觉自己在一座小岛上度假,尤其是夏天的时候。”
雅典拥有年均超过250天日照的气候,让人感觉似乎一直都处于夏天。“按照我的标准,雅典的‘夏天’从4月底一直持续到10月底。”米娜·艾格诺斯说道。这里的天气尤其适合在周末忙里偷闲,去周边的小岛小住几天。威廉姆斯推荐九头蛇岛,那里禁止汽车通行,人们骑着驴和骡子在岛上观光,或者悠闲地在田园般的城市街道上散步,当然大部分街道都没有路标。尽管长久以来受到名人和艺术家的青睐,但是岛上仍然保留着慵懒的生活方式,众多的咖啡馆和从容的人群,这些都要归功于数量有限的旅馆。
The mountains and forest are also within easy reach. “If you want to break out of the city, you can do so easily and feel like you’re a million miles away,” Williams said. “One of my regular places to go is Mount Hymettus, which is ideal if you walk a dog, and is also great for biking.”
What’s it like to live there?
Despite living in an ancient city, residents never get sick of the views. “Driving into the city and seeing the Acropolis or the Temple of Zeus takes my breath away,” Agnos said. “At every turn, there is a beautiful reminder of the ancient past of this city. It is a lovely reminder of our limited time and that we should make the best of it.”
Among the antiquities, nearby neighborhoods give a glimpse into the city’s contemporary culture. Just steps from the Acropolis, Koukaki was recently ranked as the city’s coolest neighborhood for its new National Museum of Contemporary Art, trendy restaurants and cosy cafes. For a more avant-garde experience, Williams recommends the neighborhood of Exarcheia, 1km north-east of the city center.
Locals also have their own secrets that tourists often miss while they’re museum-hopping. “Some of the best food is to be had in the local central market in downtown Athens,” said Katilena Alpe. “And not many know that Athens has a wine route and the vineyards around the capital produce some great wines.”
山脈和森林同样触手可及。“如果你想逃离城市生活,很轻松就能办到,而且就像远在百万英里之外。”威廉姆斯说道,“我常去的地方是伊米托斯山,如果要遛狗的话,这里会非常合适,当然骑行也很棒。”
在这里生活的感受如何呢?
虽然生活在一座古老的城市,但是它的风景居民们百看不厌。“开车到城里去参观卫城或宙斯神庙总是让我激动不已。”艾格诺斯说道,“每次前来,都会感受到来自城市辉煌过往的提醒。这种提醒让我们感受到时光是有限的,告诫我们应当利用好每分每秒。”
在众多古迹之中,周边的街区风景可以令人窥见城市的当代文化。距卫城几步之隔的库卡基,由于拥有新建的当代艺术国家博物馆、潮流的餐馆和惬意的咖啡馆而成为这座城市最吸引人的街区。如果想要获得更加前沿的体验,那么威廉姆斯推荐距市中心东北1000米远的伊哈瑞亚区。
当地居民还有一些秘密是忙于参观博物馆的游客们经常错过的。“一些最美味的食物都藏在雅典市中心的当地中心市场里。”卡迪丽娜·阿尔普说道,“很多人都不知道雅典有一条红酒之路,附近的葡萄园出产着非常棒的红酒。”
Word Study
rival /'raɪvl/ v. 与……匹敌;比得上
prohibit /prə'hɪbɪt/ v. (尤指以法令)禁止
Soviet citizens were prohibited from travelling abroad.
retain /rɪ'teɪn/ v. 保持;持有;保留;继续拥有
He struggled to retain control of the situation.
plentiful /'plentɪfl/ adj. 大量的;众多的;充足的;丰富的
In those days jobs were plentiful.
glimpse /ɡlɪmps/ n. 一瞥;一看
I came up on deck to get my first glimpse of the island.