驻望慈城千百回

黄岚

致力于古村落古镇保护的冯骥才说：“慈城这个地方，不仅与我血脉相通，更在文化精神传统上与我的灵魂相通，始终让我无限牵挂。”

2020年开年，我的诗歌《慈城，乡愁开始的地方》被译成斯洛文尼亚、俄、英、德、法5国语言，有位法国姑娘还朗诵了其中的法语版诗歌，在当地的诗歌爱好者中引起了不小的轰动。

“慈城/乡愁开始的地方/一草一木，月容花颜/都让人陶醉徜徉……”随着她的法语朗诵声，我的思绪又飘回了那个让我念想千百回的江南小镇。

细数千年沧桑

慈城，位于寧波市江北区西北部，曾是慈溪的县城。慈城拥有极其深厚的文化底蕴，素有“儒学重镇、进士摇篮、慈孝之乡、民居经典”的美誉。我穿过岁月的迷雾，将目光停留在公元738年。那一年，唐代名相房玄龄族裔房琯出任明州慈溪令。

房琯，字次律，今河南偃师人。年轻时好学，风仪沉稳，以家族恩荫成为弘文馆学生。他生性淡泊，隐居洛阳陆浑山十几年，被宰相张说赏识擢拔为官。出任慈溪县令后，他将县治句章城从姚江边的城山渡迁于浮碧山以南，建造了屹立千年的慈溪城。

慈溪县名，缘于汉代名儒董仲舒云世孙（）董黯侍母至孝一事。时董母患疾，喜饮大隐溪水，董孝子在溪边筑屋居住，担水供母饮用，母病渐愈。房琯将县名改为慈溪，以彰此孝道。

慈溪城东郊西郊各有两列山，城为梯形，4个城角为圆弧状，有7个城门，城四周有环城河，城池历经千年沧桑而依然美丽。古县城保留有唐代的双棋盘街巷格局，堪称“中国传统县城的典型代表”。

慈城县衙坐北朝南，中路主体建筑包括大门、仪门、六部房、大堂、川堂、二堂等，整组建筑气势宏伟，形制严格。仪门和大堂间的甬道上立着一块石碑，前为“公生明”后为“廉生威”。县衙还保存着唐时的砖砌甬道，方砖呈深灰色、一指宽，一层层排列整齐，堆成一条倾斜成1米宽的狭长甬道。这个盛唐时县衙门大堂的遗迹，用护栏围着，是县衙最珍贵的文物了。看到千年前的泥土，不禁感叹岁月的飞逝。而慈城城墙约于1938～1939年间拆除，让我觉得实在可惜。

房琯还疏浚阚湖（），以灌溉城郊。阚湖以乡贤阚泽而名。阚泽，字德润，一说慈城人，一说山阴人，三国时吴国学者、大臣，今慈城留有阚泽许多踪迹。其中广为流传的是一个孤联：东庙阚，西庙房，二公门户相当，方敢并坐。这上联是拆字联，非常巧妙的把阚泽和房琯的二姓拆为“门敢户方”嵌入其中，意思妥贴，至今未有佳对。

阚湖后改为慈湖。杨简，南宋学者，字敬仲，慈溪人，告老还乡后，他说：“溪以董君慈孝而得名，县又以是名，则是湖宜亦以慈名”，既然以慈名溪，又以溪名县，当然也要以慈名湖，遂将阚湖改名为“慈湖”了。杨简筑室湖畔隐居，以此为号，世称“慈湖先生”。杨简师事陆九渊，发展心学思想，设馆讲学，教化民众，为发展慈溪文化作出了贡献。

房琯作为第一任县令，不但新筑了城池，还为民办了许多实事，颇有政绩，受到当地百姓的拥戴。后来房琯官至唐玄宗、唐肃宗两朝宰相，在安史之乱中以一文官身份带兵迎敌，惜兵败长安城。其好友杜甫时为左拾遗，冒死进谏，亦被贬。在慈城县衙二堂，我见到了这对好友的塑像，房琯深邃的目光和杜甫忧国忧民的神情交织着，依旧牵挂着天下苍生。

慈城望族冯氏

我踏入慈城镇民主路159号冯骥才祖居，是在冬天的午后。走进大门，青砖堆砌、爬满青藤的围墙在冬日的阳光下显得清幽而和煦。历年留下的交错的褐色藤条，勾勒出一幅斑驳的画，画中还有几片绿叶昭示着青春的活力。青藤下方有一口古井，清泠的井水澄澈如旧，想必滋养了冯家多年。祖居内陈列着冯骥才的书画著作，可以清晰看到当代文化大家冯骥才的创作轨迹——数十年来，他以广博深厚的文化素养、深邃的思想内涵，创作了大量脍炙人口的文学作品，享誉中外，更因致力于传统文化村落保护而，被誉为中国民间文化的“保护神”。

冯氏是慈城望族，据《慈溪县志》记载，汉末时冯氏先祖从北方来句章为官，三国时遂隐居于慈溪金川乡石神桥村（）。慈城冯家世代从商重教，既以商养学，亦入仕报国，明清以后更是财丁两旺，支脉众多，在浙江有“南浔刘家，慈溪冯家”的说法。

冯氏家族在慈城留下的祖居颇多，如冯布政房、福字门头、禄字门头等，而我最在意的却是在冯骥才祖居东北不远处的抱珠楼。

冯氏抱珠楼，位于慈城始平路6号，是一座可与宁波“天一阁”、余姚“五桂楼”相媲美的清代道光年间的藏书楼。

楼主冯本怀，字慎旃，号酉卿，生卒年份已不可考，道光十九年中举。此楼座北朝南，现存的建筑由台门、前厅、后进三个单体所组成，建筑形制呈“日”字。该宅建于清代，为他的私人藏书楼，因此称为“抱珠楼”。楼中藏书后捐赠至西泠印社。

据有关文史专家说，抱珠楼主人与冯骥才同一支脉，冯骥才也有意将他的藏书放置在慈城合适的藏书楼中，若有机缘将书藏入抱珠楼，那是极美的事。

冯骥才祖居往西不远，中华路上有一座妙音精舍。其第一任主持本空法师，俗名张汝钊，字曙蕉，是民国时大名鼎鼎的女诗人、社会活动家。她于1928年任宁波图书馆馆长，最后却皈依佛门，直到剃度出家，讲经说法，成为近代天台宗一大名僧。她的皈依让我想起了同是才华横溢的李叔同，不知道他们为什么要选择青灯古佛的生活。她的诗写得极有个性，出版过《绿天簃诗词集》，名震文坛。宁波的方祖猷、王介堂先生编著过她的文集《张汝钊居士集》，收录其毕生诗文。在张汝钊圆寂50周年时我写过一律以作纪念：“曾是张家好女儿，释门既入亦成痴。一身才学谁能识，三宝声名人赞奇。寄梦慈城尘梦了，妙音精舍梵音驰。匆匆五十年华过，此地如君佛法随。”

走出一拨宁波帮

一方山水养育一方人士，江南深厚的文化积累产生了诸多文化名人，也培育了诸多宁波帮人士。我感叹于慈城的名人很多，随便走到哪都会偶遇。

比如秦润卿，名祖泽，字润卿，慈溪县城（）人，在金融界卓有成绩，对故乡的教育事业也颇为关心。1915年，他在慈城西营建校舍、办学校，创办普迪小学、慈溪中学、宁波效实中学等。他在慈城故居旁营建“抹云楼”图书馆，新中国成立后将所藏图书4万册连房屋设施悉数捐献给国家。

又如应昌期，实业界著名人士，应氏围棋计点制创始人，“应氏杯围棋赛”被誉为“黑白世界的诺贝尔”。他先后捐资创建慈城昌期幼儿园，重建慈城中城小学和慈湖中学;捐资扩建慈城保黎医院等，福泽家乡，永远被乡人传扬。

慈城是一座具有特别英雄气息的城池。慈城的历史要追溯到春秋战国时候的越国。约公元前495年，越王勾践打了胜仗，为彰显此次胜利，在余姚江畔城山渡王家坝村筑城名叫句章。县治在现慈城西南15里，作为越国的屏障。千年后的清代鸦片战争时期，朱贵将军及其部下将士为抗击入侵的英军，英勇阵亡。在其牺牲在慈城西门外二里大宝山西麓，当地民众于1843年建了朱贵祠，俗称“朱将军庙”。

我在慈城街上徜徉时，发现路名很有特色，比如有民主路、民权路、中华路等，查看地图时又发现有民族路、民生路等街道，这与孙中山先生的“三民主义”有什么关系吗？再查资料，原来在1932年时，慈溪作为民国时期的模范县，以“民族、民生、民权”等命名街道，让“三民主义”在慈城永久地留下痕迹。

而说到慈溪诗人、作家应修人，我公公会自豪地说，他们是一个族的。应修人，字修士，笔名丁九、丁休人，慈城半浦后洋应家河塘人。著有《应修人诗文集》、童话《旗子的故事》和《金宝塔银宝塔》等作品。2018年5月底，以宁波籍著名画家邵秉坤名字命名的邵秉坤艺术馆在慈城应修人故居落成。以后我们可以经常看到各类艺术活动，让当地名人的故事永远流传下去。

致力于古村落古镇保护的冯骥才说：“慈城这个地方，不仅与我血脉相通，更在文化精神傳统上与我的灵魂相通，始终让我无限牵挂。”也许有一天，他的藏书可以在抱珠楼中被收藏，让曾经辉煌的江南藏书楼焕发青春的光芒，让书香永久流转在慈城这方美丽的土地上。

Cicheng，Where Wonders Begin

By Huang Lan

Located in northwestern Jiangbei District of Ningbo， Cicheng was once the town seat of present-day Cixi， boasting unique cultural riches and enchanting architectural treasures. In 738， Fang Guan （697-763）， a distant relative of Fang Xuanling （579-648）， who served as a chancellor under Emperor Taizong in the early Tang dynasty （618-907）， took office as the magistrate of Cicheng.

Born in Yanshi， Henan Province， Fang Guan who had no interest in seeking fame or wealth， lived in seclusion for more than ten years until the Prime Minister found him and brought him into the political realm. During his tenure， the town seat， called Gouzhang at that time， moved to the south of Fubi Hill and was renamed， where the thousand-year prosperity of Cixi began.

Fangs talent was reflected in the towns intricate， checkerboard-style architectural layout that originally included seven gates and a well-designed moat. The layout of streets and alleys of obvious Tang features makes Cixi a representative work in the history of town planning in China.

People today can relish the towns cultural residues at the towns former site of  （government office in feudal China）， built in the heyday of the Tang dynasty. A must-see is a paved path leading to the main hall. Encapsulated in the brickwork， about one-meter in width， is a thousand years vicissitudes. The towns city walls were torn down in the late 1930s， which is really a shame.

Fang Guans hard work in his years in Cicheng also includes the dredging of Derun Lake. Also called Kan Lake， the lake was originally named after Kan Ze， a master scholar in the Three Kingdoms （220-280）. The mans legacy can still be seen today in many cultural spots in the town.

The lake was renamed by Yang Jian （1141-1226）， a scholar in the Southern Song dynasty， after he returned to his birthplace in Cixi for his retired years. He lived by lake and preached the philosophy of the mind. He is considered an important figure in the cultural pride of Cixi.

Fang Guan is remembered by Cixi people for the many deeds he accomplished as the towns first magistrate during his stay there. His political life in later years as Prime Minister suffered a lot from a losing battle in Changan during the An Lushan Rebellion. The setback also made Fangs close friend， Du Fu， who tried but in vain to support Fang， implicated and demoted. Today， at the main hall of the former site of the town seat government， the two mens care-laden eyes are still closely observing the welfare of all people.

Another cultural site worth a visit is one of the former residences of Feng Jicai， located at 159， Minzhu Road. Born in a well-off family in Cicheng， Feng Jicai is not only a cultural icon of Cicheng but also an active player in the protection of village-level traditional culture across the country. The private library of the Feng family， located on Shiping Road and first built in the Qing dynasty （1644-1911）， is a treasure trove worth exploring. The book collection was donated by the family to present-day Xiling Seal-engraving Society based in Hangzhou. The former glory of the estate is nowhere to be seen today.

Miaoyin Vihara， located on Zhonghua Road， within walking distance west of Fengs former estate， was once the residence of Zhang Ruzhao （1900-1970）， an outstanding poet and social activist. The former chief librarian of Ningbo Library was converted to Buddhism in her later years.

In Cicheng， the aroma of culture is everywhere. The towns long list of cultural notables also includes Qin Runqing （1877-1966）， an outstanding figure in the financial circle and a philanthropist， and Ying Changqi （1917-1997）， to whom the Changqi Cup Weiqi Game is dedicated.

Cicheng is also a heroic town. The original town seat， Gouzhang， was first built by Goujian， King of Yue State in the Warring States （475-221BC）， as a national protective screen. The town witnessed the heroic death of Zhu Gui during the Opium War. In 1843， a memorial hall dedicated to the general was unveiled at the foot of Dabaoshan. The towns heroic tradition can also be sensed in road names， such as Minzhu （“democracy”） Road and Minquan （“civil rights”） Road. The town was a model of Sun Yat-sens Three Peoples Principles （Nationalism， Democracy， and the Peoples Livelihood） in 1932.