千古兰亭的色香味

刘孟达

风光篇

在兰亭，许多匾额或对联均出自历代书坛耆宿之手。除了御碑亭的康乾御笔，还有乾隆年间翰林王文治的对联“文人天趣清犹水，贤者风期静若兰”，光绪年间江夏太守李树堂的“流觞亭”、当代著名书法家沙孟海的“王右军祠”等，堪称一座“没有围墙的书法博物馆”。

盛会不殊，放怀宇宙忘今古;幽情共叙，极目山林快咏觞。      ——题记

晨起，推窗而望，蓦然发现我家的小庭院也似乎早已洋溢着绿色生命的蓬勃，瑞香吐蕊，杜鹃含苞。这个周末天朗而气清，不经意间，一缕温煦的阳光悄悄踏进了我的小书斋，便突然动了郊野踏春的雅兴——目的地自然是绍兴古城西南郊的兰亭。我蛰居绍兴近40年，记不清寻访过兰亭多少回，可她的色、香、味依然令我心倾神驰。

一

“永和九年，岁在癸丑，暮春之初，会于会稽山阴之兰亭，修禊事也……”兰亭的“亭”，并非现代意义上的亭。秦汉时，“亭”是乡以下的行政单位，即“十里一亭，十亭一乡”。汉朝以降，在兰渚山麓设驿亭，故称为兰亭。相传，王羲之、谢安等社会名流曾在此置园建墅。历史上，兰亭原址几经兴废变迁，现址为20世纪80年代按照明嘉靖年间重建的园林风格修复而成。景区融恬静的山水风光、雅致的园林景观、显赫的书坛盛名、深邃的文化底蕴于一体，以“景幽、事雅、文妙、书绝”而闻名遐迩。

兰亭有山有水又有亭。山是兰渚山，水是兰亭溪，还有那环抱着信可乐也亭的乐池。兰渚山层峦耸翠，连绵逶迤;兰亭溪流水淙淙，穿景而过。数十处亭榭，或依山，或傍水。当然，与其他景区不同，兰亭的“亭”大多是碑亭，朱柱飞檐，清幽典雅。我置身兰亭溪畔，站在骋怀廊桥上环顾四周，茂林如锦，修篁成林，俨然是一幅秀色可餐的山水画。

兰渚山，我钟情于她的青黛欲滴。“山不在高，有仙则灵”，兰渚山高不过百米，想必也难觅仙踪。可是，看它的身世并非等闲之辈，这里曾是越王句（）践的“花圃”。据南宋《会稽续志》载：“《越绝书》曰：‘句践种兰渚山。旧经曰：‘兰渚山，句践种兰之地。”相传，当年越王句践为博得吴王夫差的欢心，每年遴选最好的兰花作为进吴贡品。

兰亭溪，我醉心于她的绿水荡漾。从御碑亭北行，便是兰亭溪，浅溪清流，绕兰渚山陂潺潺而过。水底游鱼卵石，清晰可数，溪滩宽百余米，是举行群众性水上修禊活动的最佳场所。溪边的柳树露出一束束新枝绿叶，随风飘扬，婀娜多姿，真是“不知细叶谁裁出，二月春风似剪刀。”

亭榭间，我迷恋于她的翠竹如屏。在兰亭，绕楼台、过亭阁，随处可见一片片细密的竹林，或巧布，或穿插。细细的叶，临风起舞;疏疏的节，宁折不弯。远看，这些竹林绿得像一块块晶莹碧透的翡翠;近看，它们又像一道道绿色的屏障。在兰渚山麓新建有全国之最的“兰亭书法博物馆”。翠竹茂林掩映下的新馆占地十余亩，与兰亭隔溪相望。馆内除收藏和展出古今书法精品外，还设有书艺交流厅，并每年定期在此仿效古人“曲水流觞”之雅事。

我蓦然发现，兰亭最美的景不只在于她拥有灵动的水、沉稳的山、古朴的亭，而在于她那山与水与亭的交相辉映，还有那一片片翠竹修篁的点缀和映衬。

二

暖日融天，和风扇物。我踯躅在兰亭的卵石路上，穿过翠竹园，走过鹅池、乐池、流觞亭，便是“曲水流觞”处。正是在这里，一群名士的雅集留下了妙文的墨香、幽兰的清香，还有那花雕的醇香。从此，兰亭便惊艳历史，葱茏岁月。

一篇妙文，字字墨香最绝妙。东晋永和九年（353）三月初三，时任会稽内史的王羲之邀谢安、孙绰等41位名士及亲友在兰亭修禊，曲水流觞，长吟浅酌。随后，王羲之将所作37首诗归整成集，并在微醉中用鼠须笔在蚕茧纸上一气呵成《兰亭序》。区区324字，文妙字绝，似神人相助。从此，兰亭成为文人雅士的圣殿，引无数书者至心朝礼，顶礼膜拜。在兰亭，许多匾额或对联均出自历代书坛耆宿之手。除了御碑亭的康乾御笔，还有乾隆年间翰林王文治的对联“文人天趣清犹水，贤者风期静若兰”，光绪年间江夏太守李树堂的“流觞亭”、当代著名书法家沙孟海的“王右军祠”等，堪称一座“没有围墙的书法博物馆”。

一枝幽兰，缕缕清香最怡神。“婀娜花姿碧叶长，风来难隐谷中香。”绍兴是中国植兰最早的地方之一。与兰亭毗邻的漓渚棠棣一带，现仍以盛产春兰而驰名中外。棠棣兰花，品种繁多;一枝在室，清香四溢。明代书画大家徐渭《咏兰》诗云：“莫讶春光不属侬，一香已足压千红。”兰花作为绍兴市花，象征着典雅脱俗的情操和柔中带刚的气质。那天，我走过兰渚桥，来到购物区“之镇”。“之镇”因取《兰亭序》中二十多个体态优美的“之”字而得名。我蹀躞在“之镇”水街的青石板上，棠棣的村民们正在沿街叫卖一盆盆兰花。这些兰花叶片细长而潇洒，花姿妩媚而清雅，冷艳芬芳，摄人心魄。

一坛花雕，口口醇香最难忘。那天，在“之镇”旱街，正在举行“岁月流觞·致敬经典”绍兴黄酒新款推介会，新款叫“大师兰亭珍藏版”。我知道，那是绍兴花雕酒中的极品。记得2019年书法节，就在景区旁的“兰亭酒坊”，我和五六个好友温了一壶老款的“大师兰亭”，细品慢饮，悠哉乐哉。至今，那花雕的醇香仍萦绕于心。今年春节，我妥妥宅在家，偶尔也独酌几盅“兰亭”。不由得想起曹孟德“慨当以慷，忧思难忘”的短歌来。彼时，嘴里的花雕醇香，可心中的“忧思”却难忘。我默默地祈盼：等春来，君安国无恙。

三

永和九年的兰亭雅集，不只是魏晋名士的风雅与书法的神韵，还有对人间世事本真的探索，蕴含着个人和国家命运的迷茫、困惑、忧思与憧憬，考问着多少帝王将相、仁人志士的心智和灵魂。

凝望御碑亭，我讀懂了盛世明君的鼎味。“鼎味”者，国政也。相传，商王武丁曾讨教傅说如何治理国家，傅说答曰：“犹调鼎中之味，以谐和也”。站在御碑亭前，我不禁逸兴遄飞。御碑是全国唯一的康乾“祖孙碑”，迄今已逾三百余年，属“国宝”级文物，与“鹅池碑”“兰亭碑”统称“兰亭三宝”。碑的正面是康熙帝1693年临写的《兰亭序》，背面是乾隆帝1751年游兰亭时的七律诗《兰亭即事》。沧海桑田，多少兰亭故事传唱不息。唐太宗热捧王羲之书艺：“心摩手追，此人而已！”正是他，将王羲之迎上了书艺的“神坛”。尽管他将“赚入宫中”的《兰亭序》奉为至宝，《兰亭序》亦因陪葬昭陵而不知所踪，但在他身后兴起的临摹刻碑之风，使王羲之“书圣”名谓，再无人出其右。难怪史学家说，唐太宗开元盛世的秘密是：收人，收心，收天下！我想，以文化人、兴文偃武，历来是一代明君的“调鼎”之术。再来品读康乾御碑。康熙御笔雍容华贵，气韵生动，既有王羲之的笔意，又有董其昌的结体，字里行间无不彰显出“和为贵”的幽韵;而乾隆御笔则是他上会稽、祭大禹后，来兰亭朝拜书圣时即兴所作，其书风妍美俊逸，圆润秀雅，诗中对兰亭的仰慕之情溢于言表。凝眸此景，我感慨：“马背上”的满清民族虽入关征服了明王朝，但他们却心悦诚服地被厚重的汉文化所征服。这，也许是另一种形式的“调鼎”之术罢。

佇立流觞亭，我领略了魏晋名士的风韵。“曲水流觞”处对面的流觞亭，面阔三间，四面围廊，匾额“曲水趣欢处”为乾隆御笔。围廊内陈列着《兰亭修禊图》扇面画和明朝永乐年间所刻流觞图拓片及觞的复制品。在这里，我感慨，一缕飘逸千年的墨香，激扬了多少志士仁人;一张泛黄的茧纸，湮没了多少金戈铁马。我支颐而思，在兰亭雅集的背后，不就是被世人津津乐道的魏晋风韵或风度吗？品读王羲之的《兰亭序》，貌似充斥着率直任诞、清静无为的意趣，深层次却从宇宙永存、人生苦短中参悟人生价值。在山河破碎风飘絮的魏晋时代，一群旷达不羁的名士寄情山水，宠辱不惊，与诗酒为伴，在乱离中感伤，在感伤中排遣，悻悻然走向萧散，走向自然。其实，他们的内心却埋藏着深沉的悲哀和无奈，是对当时政治生态及其社会现实的无声抗争。

瞻仰王右军祠，我体悟了为人处世的真味。始建于清康熙年间的王右军祠，飞檐回廊，古朴典雅。祠中间有“墨池”，池中建有墨华亭。祠堂正中为王羲之汉白玉塑像，堂匾“尽得风流”气势恢宏。回廊墙上镶嵌着历代名家临写的《兰亭序》以及兰亭艺事刻石，是静赏书艺的最佳处。在这里，两件事令我更加懂得：做人，要拿得起，更要放得下。在兰亭雅集后的第三年，三十多年“官龄”的王羲之便告病辞官，携全家归隐剡县（）金庭，直至终老。有人说他是因为与上司不睦而愤然辞职的，还有人说他是因笃信道教而安然遁世的。依我看，是他“不羡权贵不慕官”的那颗“放得下”的心使然。由此，我幡然体悟：如果人生是一场寻觅，那么“拿得起”也好，“放得下”也罢，只要将自己的平常心融入世界，就能找到生命的真谛。因为，生命，需要磨砺;人生，需要儒雅。匍匐前行的姿势，唯有心更接近泥土。

（本文图片除署名外，来自视觉中国）

Orchid Pavilion of Pastand Present

By Liu Mengda

I have been living in Shaoxing for nearly four decades. Orchid Pavilion （Lanting in Chinese pronunciation） in a suburb southwest of the city proper is one of my favorite destinations around the city of history and culture. I dont know exactly how many times I have visited it， but the latest one was just a few days ago.

What was known as Ting （pavilion） in ancient China is not a roadside structure with a roof but no walls for travelers to take a break there. Ting in the Qin Dynasty （221-207BC） and the Han Dynasty （206BC-220AD） was a rural grassroots administrative unit. Ten Tings added up to a rural town. In the Han Dynasty， a postal office was set up at Lanzhu Hill in Shaoxing. It was called Lanting or Orchid Pavilion. Folklore has it that Wang Xizhi， Xie An， and many other celebrated people had their villas built there. Orchid Pavilion was destroyed several times in history. The present tourist destination is a restoration in the architectural style of the Ming Dynasty （1368-1644） constructed in the 1980s.

The scenic zone of Orchid Pavilion is composed of Lanzhu Hill （no more than 100 meters above sea level）， Orchid Pavilion brook and a pond and a series of pavilions， scattered on the hill slopes or by the brook. Most of these pavilions house stone tablets which present artworks of calligraphy. One of the most outstanding stone tablets is a piece jointly created by Emperor Kangxi and his grandson Emperor Qianlong. On the obverse side is the complete text of  copied by Emperor Kangxi in 1693. On the reverse side is a poem composed by Emperor Qianlong in 1751 during his visit to Orchid Pavilion.

Lanzhu Hill boasted a nursery where the King Goujian had orchids cultivated there more than 2，000 years ago. Then a defeated king living as a subject to the King of Wu State， Goujian submitted orchid flowers to the court of the Wu State. Now Lanzhu Hill boasts a forest of bamboos. At the foot of the hill is Orchid Pavilion Calligraphy Museum， which covers an area of more than 6，000 square meters. The museum has a large collection of works by calligraphers of yesterday and today. Exhibitions are held there at regular intervals. Orchid Pavilion also hosts a spring-day ceremony to honor the original gathering in 535AD.

Also at the Orchid Pavilion site are a Wang Xizhi memorial temple and a pavilion called Liushang Pavilion named after the wine-sipping poem-composing ceremony held by a gurgling stream on the late spring day in 535AD. On the ground of the pavilion is a minimized 3D map of the stream. There is a brook zigzagging on the compound. A memorial celebration is held there annually in honor of the event in 535. At the event， some low tables and cushions are arranged by the brook where people can sit and write poems.

Shaoxing has probably the longest history of orchid cultivation in China. Naturally， the city flower of Shaoxing is orchid flower. Lizhu and Tangdi， two rural areas near Orchid Pavilion， are home to some orchid cultivators. Orchid farming in this part of Zhejiang has been going on for more than a thousand years. In Orchid Pavilion there is a shopping area called 之鎮， literally town of 之. This Chinese character appears in Wang Xizhis calligraphic masterpiece more than twenty times， each penned in a different way. Some potted orchid flowers vendors are from Tangdi and Lizhu. On the day I was visiting， I ran into a promotional event held by a wine producer. The wine brand was Orchid Pavilion Masters. I remember sipping the rice wine with some friends during our visit to Orchid Pavilion during the calligraphy festival in 2019. How we were delighted by the gathering and by the wine.