百年山城巷的文艺范

文|本刊记者 胡 婷 图| 吕 兵

从中兴路渝中区检察院旁边的小牌楼右拐，便进入了山城步道。12 月2 日，从这里，我们开启了一次崭新的山城巷之旅。

改造后的老巷，不仅提升了“颜值”，更增加了“气质”，让人不由得时时停下脚步。

Turn right from the small archway next to Yuzhong District Procuratorate on Zhongxing Road and enter the Shancheng footpath. On December 2, we started a brand-new trip to Shancheng Alley from here.

The transformation of the old alley not only improved its appearance but also increased the temperament, making us stop to appreciate constantly.

老巷子里小清新 Freshness in Old Alley

走在石阶步道上，曾经破旧的云街平巷里，悄悄“住”进了博物馆、美术馆、展览馆等新兴艺术馆。

一面红砖墙上，“XXS 羊毛毡美术馆”的标识格外醒目。沿着指示牌，转弯向里走，透过店门的落地玻璃窗，能看到橱窗里陈列的狐狸、熊、乌鸦等各式动物羊毛毡。说是美术馆，不过30 来平方米，摆放的蘑菇、座椅、花朵等惟妙惟肖的毛毡作品均出自“馆长”邓丽之手。

此刻，邓丽正坐在木桌前，一针一针地勾勒着。游客如果有兴趣，也可以现场体验一番。

羊毛毡美术馆旁，是一家明信片博物馆，掩蔽在一大片藤蔓绿植中，若不仔细看，很容易错过。

尽管店面很隐秘，但馆内却是别有洞天。墙上的老式挂钟、木桌上正在播放磁带的录音机、暗色调的木箱等物品，提示这是一家主打怀旧的小店。

往里，整面墙“长”满了各式彩色手绘明信片，旁边的一张长桌上，摆放着川江号子、老码头、茶馆等的老照片。这些都是老板白墨的作品。

白墨说：“这些老茶馆、老巷子很多都没有了。我希望游客可以通过这些明信片和老照片，感受老重庆的一些记忆。”

边走边看，步步都有惊喜：小巷里一路有“重庆女性影像展”；街角有画师在为游客画卡通动漫形象；在一家“时光杂货铺”，淘一块几十年前的老布，顺便也寻回老的时光……

Walking on the stone steps and footpath, I surprisingly found that museums, art galleries, exhibition halls and other new art galleries have quietly moved in the once-shabby Pingxiang Alley of Yunjie Street.

05 买一碗豆腐脑，品尝山城的味道

06 登上长长的石梯，就是山城巷

On a red brick wall, the logo of "XXS Wool Felt Art Museum" is especially striking. Following the sign, turn and walk inward. Through the floor-to-floor glass window of the store door, you can see the wool felt of foxes, bears, crows and other animals displayed in the window. It is said to be an art museum, but only with 30 square meters, the lifelike felt works such as mushrooms, seats and flowers are all made by "curator" Deng Li.

At the moment, Deng Li is sitting at the wooden table, sketching the outline stitch by stitch. Tourists can also experience it on the spot if they are interested.

Next to the Wool Felt Art Museum is a postcard museum, hidden in a large area of vines and green plants. If you don't look carefully, you can easily miss it.

Although it is hidden behind plants, there is a very different world inside it. The old wall clock on the wall, the tape recorder playing tapes on the wooden table, dark wooden cases and other items show nostalgia is the subject of the store.

07 青砖台子旁，大锅里温着豆腐脑，旁边还摆着碗筷和各式调料

08 走累了，路边随处都有休息的桌椅

09 在胡豆店，游客还可以体验传统胡豆的制作

Inside, the whole wall is covered by all kinds of colored hand-painted postcards, and on a long table beside it are old photos of Chuanjiang Haozi, old docks, teahouses, etc. These are all the works of the boss Bai Mo.

"Many of these old teahouses and alleys are gone. I hope tourists can feel some memories of old Chongqing through these postcards and old photos." Bai Mo said.

While walking and watching, there are surprises step by step: "Chongqing Women's Image Exhibition" in the alley, painters drawing cartoon images for tourists on the corner, a "time grocery store" where you could buy a piece of cloth of several decades old, reviewing the old times by the way.

百年积淀的烟火味 Living Atmosphere Accumulated over A Hundred Years

老巷的魅力，还在于百年积淀的烟火气。然而，漫步老巷，这里的烟火气和文艺范也如此和谐统一。

沿着石梯而上，一家店铺门前摆着几张矮木桌和椅子，雕花镂空的木门上挂着毛笔题写的匾额“山城老倌”，以为是老茶馆，进屋一看却是家咖啡馆。

石梯折叠，地势层层攀升。拾级而上，走累了可以在路边的长椅歇息，也可以随手在沿途点上一碗传统风味小吃。

“灵儿姐豆腐脑、盖碗茶”的大锅里，凝脂般的豆腐脑冒着热气，菜单上虽然只有豆腐脑和盖碗茶两个品种，但口味多样。点好餐，从大堂的老式八仙桌旁顺木梯往上，可以登上一个小阁楼。

伴着冬日暖阳，捧着一碗热气腾腾的桂花醪糟豆腐脑，看看窗外滚滚的江水，好不惬意。

10 百年山城巷，增加了很多新元素

11 在路边小店门口坐一坐，也别有一番味道

12 坐在小阁楼上，闹中取静

老板灵儿姐说，“夏天过来，还可以尝到冰镇的豆腐脑，特别爽口。”

要想边吃边走也是有的。“郑氏三合胡豆体验店”可以买到海苔味、五香味、怪味等各式现做的胡豆。

老板郑三合说，他家从爷爷辈就开始做胡豆了。在这里，游客不仅可以买到各种胡豆，还能体验重庆传统胡豆从初加工、调味到装袋的整个制作过程。

沿着石梯继续向上，一路还可以尝到传统手工米粉、芝麻汤圆、老火锅等重庆传统美食，还有不少老屋还在翻修。

更多的惊喜在未来——山城巷传统风貌区整个项目占地面积2.47 公顷，建筑面积约21000 平方米，目前打造的还不足1000 平方米。或许过段时间再来，这条百年老巷里又会有新的小惊喜。

The charm of the old alley also lies in the living atmosphere accumulated over the past hundred years. However, walking through the old lane, you would find that the living atmosphere and artistic features here are also so harmonious and unified.

Up the stone ladder, there are several low wooden tables and chairs in front of a shop. The carved and hollowedout wooden door is hung with a plaque inscribed with a writing brush, "Old Shepherd of Shancheng". I thought it was an old teahouse, but when I entered it I found it was a cafe.

The stone steps lay on top of each other, and as they went up, the ground rises higher and higher. If you are tired, you can rest on the bench on the roadside or buy a bowl of traditional snacks along the way.

13 在山城巷，曾经破旧的云街平巷里，悄悄“住”进了博物馆、美术馆、展览馆等新兴艺术馆

14 “山城老倌”看似茶馆，其实是一个咖啡馆

15 在山城巷子的悬空栈道上，可以看到滚滚长江

In the big pot of "Ling'er Sister Tofu Jelly, Gaiwancha", coagulated fat-like tofu jelly is steaming. Although there are only two varieties of tofu and Gaiwancha on the menu, they have a lot of flavors. After ordering meal you could and go up to a small attic from the wooden ladder next to the old square table in the lobby.

Accompanied by the warm winter sun, holding a bowl of steaming tofu jelly with sweet osmanthus and fermented glutinous rice and looking out of the window at the rolling river water, how comfortable it is.

"In summer, you can also taste iced tofu jelly, that is especially refreshing." Sister Ling'er, the owner, told me.

If you want to taste the food while visiting, there are also a variety of options for you. In "Zheng's Sanhe Lima Bean Experience Shop", you can buy all kinds of lima bean freshly cooked such as seaweed flavor, five flavors and strange flavor.

Owner Zheng Sanhe said that his family has been making lima beans since his grandparents. Here, tourists can not only buy all kinds of lima beans, but also experience the whole production process of Chongqing traditional lima beans from initial processing, seasoning to bagging.

Following the stone ladder, you can also taste traditional Chongqing delicacies such as traditional handmade rice noodles, sesame glutinous rice balls and old hot pot, and many old houses are still under renovation.

More surprises are waiting for you, the whole project in the traditional style area of Shancheng Alley covers an area of 2.47 hectares and a construction area of about 21,000 square meters. At present, less than 1,000 square meters have been built. Perhaps there will be new surprises in this century-old alley after a period of time to come back.