香肠兄弟马丁

◇ 文 |本刊记者 胡 婷 图| 游 宇

10 月18 日上午，我们在龙湖源著一家名叫“香肠兄弟”的餐厅里见到了马丁（Martin）。

一米九四的身高，一头金色的头发，留着络腮胡，五官立体的马丁在人群中格外显眼。

马丁今年27 岁，来自德国科隆，大学在英国念的金融。读书时，马丁和一位重庆姑娘认识后相爱。

五年前，马丁毕业后便和女朋友来到重庆。结婚、生子、创业，他在重庆开启了自己新的人生。

香肠加啤酒的尝试

“香肠兄弟”就是马丁开的。

闲聊中，看见有客人进店，马丁立刻化身“店小二”，拿着菜单向客人推荐：“你好，我们的特色菜是香肠、猪肘，这是点得最多的。我们还有套餐，你们可以在美团或者大众点评上团购。”

头一回上门的客人总是会惊讶地盯着马丁，他们没想到马丁的中文说得这么溜。

——为什么你的中文这么好？

——是在一所非常好的大学学的。

——什么大学？

——社会大学啊。

幽默的回答，逗得在场的顾客咯咯直笑。

虽然马丁在重庆已经有了3 家德国餐厅，但他却说自己对做饭和美食并不“感冒”。

既然不喜欢做饭和美食，为什么会在重庆开西餐厅？

马丁略显腼腆地回答，“我确实不会做饭，但是喜欢和人交流，餐厅就是一个不错的交流场所。”

早在2016 年的3 月，马丁便在解放碑王府井开了第一家“香肠兄弟”，“香肠兄弟的初衷是提供一个外国人与本地人互动交流的场所，用德国的方式享受德国的美食，体验德国的文化和生活。”

餐厅开起来后，马丁在这里结交了很多朋友，中文也是在那个时候和客人聊天练出来的。“当时店面很小，只有20 平方米左右。而且只有香肠和啤酒，很多人给我们提出建议，这两样太单一。和大多数人想象的西餐不一样，店里没有座位，因为在德国，大家喜欢直接站着吃香肠、喝啤酒。但中国人却很不习惯，他们更喜欢坐着吃东西。”

去年，恰逢王府井宣布退出解放碑商圈，马丁的餐厅也就随之关闭了。

德国式的严谨细致

有了第一次开店经验，马丁开始认真思考起创业这件事，“毕竟我是德国人，做起事来还是很严谨认真的。”

为了搞好“香肠兄弟”，他做了详细的市场调研。

01 在店面装修上，马丁特地选了更年轻化、更开放式的设计风格

02 香肠兄弟的招牌菜品

03 特色菜是香肠、猪肘

04 马丁与大厨合影

“以前，在解放碑，有一些高端的西餐厅，但后来都失败了，因为重庆人对西餐的接受比较慢。此外，高端西餐的价格还普遍偏高。”马丁告诉我们他当初的市场调研结果，“我们的餐厅主要针对的是更年轻、更大众化的群体。”

为此，在店面装修上，马丁特地选了更年轻化、更开放式的设计风格，“比如店面的门口是开放式的，没有门，客人可以直接从外面看到餐厅里面的情况。此外，厨房也是开放式的。餐厅整体设计比较简单，桌子全是木质的，灯光是温和的色调。同时，在餐厅里也会有一些德国的元素，比如墙上挂了些德国城堡、街道的老照片。”

“餐厅要面向大众市场，价位上就不能太高，但是也不能太便宜，因为份量要足，要保证顾客能吃饱。在菜品上，我们也在以前的香肠和啤酒的基础上，增加了猪肘、排骨、意面、甜点等传统西餐。”马丁说。

“来我们餐厅的，百分之九十九的客人都是重庆人。很多已经成为我们的常客。”目前，马丁三家餐厅的运营都非常成功，他已经在筹备再开两家新店了。

入乡随俗的德国餐厅

马丁在开店的时候发现，来餐厅就餐的人群普遍是两三个人。于是，他专门在美团和大众点评上做了2-3 人的团购套餐。

“我们的套餐在每个季节都会调整，比如冬天快到了，套餐里的黄啤会改成味道更浓郁的黑啤，南瓜汤会换成胡萝卜汤。到圣诞节，我们还会上一个德国传统的圣诞红酒，是热的。”马丁说。

马丁经常会在手机上翻看美团和大众点评，看看顾客们的反馈意见，以及他们对菜品以及餐厅的评价。

去年，他的餐厅被评为大众点评的“五星商户”。

平时，马丁都会在店里呆着，和客人聊聊天，同时也会听取店里客人的意见，做一些改进。“比如德国香肠本身偏咸，一般配着酸菜吃，可以减轻口感上的咸度。但很多重庆人显然还是不习惯，我就让工厂把香肠的咸度降低了一点。”

马丁还记得，以前烤排骨有一款酱料，味道类似于牙膏，外国人喜欢这个味道，但是大部分中国人并不是那么接受，于是就换成了其他的酱料。

“未来，我想把餐厅开成连锁店，扎根在山城。”马丁笑着说。

“Sausage Brothers” and Martin

◇ Article | Reporter Hu Ting Figures | You Yu

05 在重庆电视台参加美食节目

In the morning of October 18, we met Martin at a restaurant called "Sausage Brothers" in Longhuyuanzhu.

With the height of 1.94 meters, blond hair and whiskers, and pronounced facial features, Martin stood out in the crowd.

Martin is now 27 years old. He comes from Cologne, Germany and has studied finance in the UK. At college, Martin met a Chongqing girl and quickly fell in love with her.

Five years ago, Martin and his girlfriend came to Chongqing after graduation, then got married, had children and started a business, starting his own new life in Chongqing.

An Attempt of Beer and Sausage

Martin is Sausage Brothers' owner.

During the chitchat, as soon as Martin saw a guest coming, he took the menu and recommended specialties in Chinese as a waiter, "Hello, our specialties are sausage and pork leg, which are the most ordered." We also offer packages. You can order on Meituan or Dianping.com."

First-time guests who don't expect Martin to speak Chinese so fluently would often stare at Martin in amazement.

--Why is your Chinese so good?

--I studied at a very good university.

--Which university?

--The society.

Such humorous answer made the customers giggle.

Although Martin already owns three German restaurants in Chongqing, he said he is

06 马丁为客人送上啤酒

FACES OF EXPATS not interested in cooking and food.

Why did you open western restaurants in Chongqing if you don't like cooking and food?

Martin replied somewhat shyly, "I can't cook, but I enjoy talking to people. A restaurant is a great place to talk."

As early as March 2016, Martin opened the first "Sausage Brothers" in Wangfujing of Jiefangbei. "The original intention of the Sausage Brothers was to provide a place for foreigners to interact with locals, enjoy German cuisine in a German way, and experience German culture and life."

When the restaurant opened, Martin made a lot of friends here, and it was at that time that he learned Chinese by chatting with his guests. "At that time the shop was very small, only about 20 square meters, and only sausage and beer were served. So, many guests suggested that more dishes could be added to the menu. Unlike most people's impression of a western restaurant, there are no seats here, because in Germany people usually eat sausage and drink beer standing up. But Chinese people are not used to eating while standing up. They prefer sitting while eating."

Martin's restaurant was closed last year when Wangfujing announced its withdrawal from the Jiefangbei business district.

Preciseness and Meticulousness of German Style

With his first restaurant experience, Martin began to think seriously about starting a business. "After all, I'm German, and I'm serious about doing things."

In order to do a good job of "Sausage Brothers", he did a detailed market research.

"In the past, there were some high-end western restaurants in Jiefangbei, but they all failed because people in Chongqing were slow to accept western food. In addition, the highend western food is generally pricy," Martin told us of his initial market research findings. "Our restaurant is aimed at younger groups and the majority of people."

For this reason, Martin chose a younger, more open interior style in his restaurant. "For example, the entrance of the restaurant is open and there is no door, so guests can see the inside of the restaurant directly from the outside." The kitchen also adopted an open design. The overall design of the restaurant is relatively simple, inside are wooden tables, with a mild tone of lighting. It also incorporates German elements, such as old photos of German castles and streets on the walls."

"Since the positioning of our restaurant is the mass market, the food should not be too expensive. However, considering that the portion of food should be guaranteed to satisfy the guests, the price should not be too cheap. Besides sausage and beer, we now offer pork legs, ribs, pasta, desserts and other traditional western food." Martin said.

"90 percent of the guests in our restaurant are Chongqing natives, many of whom have become our regular customers. "So far, Martin's three restaurants have been very running successfully, and he is already planning to open two more.

07 圣诞节，餐厅还会举办主题活动

A German Restaurant that Does as the Chongqingers Do

In running the restaurant, Martin noticed that most of the time, two or three people come together. So he made a group-buying package for 2 to 3 people on Meituan and Dianping.com.

"We adjust the menu according to the season, and as winter approaches we offer stronger stout instead of bright beer, and carrot soup instead of pumpkin soup. For Christmas, we will also offer a traditional Christmas red wine from Germany, which is warm." Martin said.

Martin often checks suggestions from customers on Meituan and Dianping.com on his phone, as well as their comments on dishes and restaurant.

Last year, his restaurant was named "five-star merchant" by Dianping.com.

Usually, Martin would stay in his restaurant to chat with customers and listen to their opinions, then make some improvements. "German sausage, for example, has a salty taste, so it needs to be eaten with sauerkraut to make it tasted not too salty. But many people in Chongqing are still not used to the salty taste, so I asked the factory to put less salt."

Another thing Martin said was that he used a paste that tasted like toothpaste when he roasted ribs. Foreigners liked it, but most Chinese didn't, so he stopped using it.

"My future plan is to develop my restaurants into a chain brand, setting up my own business base in Chongqing, the mountain city." Martin said with a smile.