约克寻宝记

文、图陈履生CHEN Lvsheng

伊斯兰蓝釉油灯Islamic blue-glazed oil lamp

对于约克的憧憬完全是因为丁宁的多次介绍所激发的诱惑。他告诉我约克的古董很多，而且很便宜。今年冬天，应英国约克大学艺术史系主任迈克尔教授的邀请，我们赴约克大学讲学。从北京飞往曼彻斯特，再从曼彻斯特坐火车到约克。到了约克，下了火车，所看到的约克火车站的第一感觉，什么叫老牌帝国主义，什么叫“日不落帝国”，一切都可以得到解释。满眼的钢架与结构所透露的历史与辉煌，气势不凡表现在历经140年而功能齐备，旧而不败，老而不衰，它见证了约克以及英国18世纪以来历经三个世纪的社会变迁。而当新约克出现在美国并且成为当今世界上最现代化的城市，这座始建于1873年、1877年投入使用的火车站依然故我，当年的帝国的日已落并转移升起在美利坚，可是，作为英格兰最伟大的维多利亚风格的建筑之一，曾经是世界上最大的火车站，那种老牌绅士风度不减。

约克可去的地方有很多，值得去的地方也有很多。正好赶上圣诞节之前，古城内游人如织，每个人在这座古城中各取所需，各去所想。我还是想去看看念念中的古玩，有哪些？怎么样？丁宁轻车熟路把我带到了一座建筑内，这是在当地非常著名的红房子。进门时在行色匆匆间都没有注意到这房子的颜色。这里离著名的大教堂很近，离商业街也不远，而离火车站更近。到约克的人，经过这里的很多，能够走进去的可能不太多，而像我这样专门来寻宝的也不会太多。在这栋只有两层楼的楼要不是它特殊的颜色，真的是不太起眼，尽管它主立面的一二层之间的墙上醒目的写有“Antique Centre”，可是，有几人会对“Antique”有兴趣？

古罗马陶质凤鸟纹油灯Ceramic phoenix-pattern oil lamp of ancient Rome

拾阶而上，进门之后自然转向右手的一个房间，一眼就看到迎面的那个柜子里有几件古罗马时期的油灯，这下放心了，不会空手而归。每一件古董上的价签都有明确的标示其身份以及价格，有的重要的古董边上还有像博物馆的展品标签那样的铭牌，详细说明与古董相关的时代、材质、流传等信息。这里是一个柜子挨着一个柜子，每个柜子里的古董或旧物的品类都不一样，其中也有一些亚洲包括中国的古董、陶俑之类，很一般。当然，到这里不是来看中国古董的。这里的每一个房间都不大，一间接一间，过道里都挂着各种各样的古董，有珠宝、首饰、旧钟、壁毯、家具、装饰等。很难叙说这里有多少品类，反正是什么都有，几乎都是杂项，其数量据说有3万种。这里没有约克郡博物馆展出的那么高端，可是，五花八门的品类有相当一部分是博物馆中看不到的，所没有的。因此，到这里来转转可以看成是参观博物馆的补充。这些杂项中有相当一部分是约克历史的物证，是历史和文化的一种创造。这里售卖的从远古的陶器到古罗马时期的油灯、雕像；从日用品到工艺品，真正是琳琅满目。就古董而言，这些并不是经过科学发掘的出土文物，只是和墓葬、遗址等相关，其中不乏一些具有重要历史与艺术价值，也有我一直追求的。比如那种在大都会博物馆和纽约犹太人博物馆看到的巴勒斯坦铁器时代（公元前1000年-550年）的陶灯，这是欧洲文明中最早的灯具，其形制有点像蚌壳，但是已经在灯捻的部位有了特殊处理，使之更为实用，而这里所见是我第一次在市场上看到。

文化遗存的多样性，在这里是出于人们的想象。人们在这里会发现很多好玩而有趣的内容，其中有一个柜子里全是和绘画与装饰相关的物件，有绘制在象牙上的肖像，也有小幅用于装饰的绘画，还有一些小幅的水彩画等，其绘画的水平和精致的程度完全属于博物馆级。而这些通常在博物馆中会被淹没，因为它们太小了。这些都是和过去老牌帝国主义生活方式相关联的一些艺术品，它们的内容关联到它们的时代和国家中的人的生活方式、审美传统、艺术潮流等，无疑，其艺术的创造也和公众的审美兴趣联系在一起。所以，那些小型的肖像画绘制在象牙等一些特别的材质上，其便于携带的特性又表现出流传上的特征。或许这里可能有很多爱情故事，有很多与家族历史相关的内容，如果将它们综合在一起，我们就可以看到英国的传统文化和文化传统，尤其是在家族传承中的一些特别的内容。它们通过艺术的方式而传之久远，虽然今天有些家族可能已经散去，有些家族可能已经败落，但当这些和过去宫廷、宫殿、城堡等相关的艺术品流入到民间之后，我们感受到的是“昔日王谢堂前燕，飞入寻常百姓家”的一种凄楚。它们流落到民间也会有一段故事和曲折，而它们为民间收藏，或者是成为一些专项收藏的内容，都提供了一种难得的资源。当然，这样一种资源今天在这个古玩中心以“奇观室”或“藏宝阁”的方式中陈列，人们会感受到历史的沧桑。

看到这里是看这种综合性古玩店最特殊的，让我想起了博物馆起源中的“奇观室”或“藏宝阁”—— 16世纪，明代嘉靖时期，中国的很多文人正在刻意搜求古玩，并通过雅集的方式彼此交流和观赏，从而带动了文人士大夫之间特有的一种交友方式。而在西方，随着地理的大发现和文艺复兴的开始，欧洲世界开始了对神秘陆地和神奇宝藏的探索。那时候，在王宫贵族与平民百姓之间都流行着在家里置办一种双开门的橱柜，而在橱柜里面放的则是搜集来的各种珍奇。收藏家们把这些橱柜称为“奇观室”或“藏宝阁”，通常在博物馆学中会把这种私人化的用于陈列和展示的橱柜看成是博物馆的早期形态，是私人收藏走向公众开放的始初。在历史的发展中，博物馆作为文明的承载，不管是收藏，还是展示以及其他，都是人类文明的记录。这种经过占有的炫耀与私欲的展示，演变为对公众开放的公众性的实体博物馆，在中国却到了20世纪初。可是，在中国古代，至迟在16世纪之前，从皇家的宫殿到文人的书房，都有一种多宝阁的柜子，实际上也是在陈列主人的收藏，无疑，这之中还有炫耀财富的问题。

这里的每一个展柜都和一位藏家或卖家联系在一起。每一个展柜彼此之间的类别各不相同，显然，这些来自于不同藏家或卖家的古董或旧货都集中在这个建筑之中，这就成为了所谓的“中心”。这个中心的历史并没有这栋建筑那么长久，只有30余年。1986年开始时在约克郡的哈罗盖特，1999年夏才转移到这栋红房子之内，这得力于此前经营的成功。这里是古董收藏者的贩卖之家，也是收藏者的交流之所。今天的古玩中心是把分散的藏家聚合在一起，让大家有各自展示自己收藏和交流的场所，而以整体的形态面向他们的客户。这又有点像缩微版的古玩城，是把那些古玩城中每一间房子或几间房子的商铺缩微成了一个柜子。因此，当每一位对古玩或旧货有兴趣的人走入其中，实际上并不需要去逛完每一个展柜，他只要逛其中一个或几个自己感兴趣的展柜就可能有所收获。因为它们实际上是来自于收藏家的系统收藏，其系统性表现在对于某一类品种搜罗的完整性以及这种民间收藏的特殊的视角或特别的方法。

红房子古玩中心一共有10个房间。不知不觉间在上了两个台阶、经过一个过道后就走到了里面的一个房间。一进来就发现一个展柜内有几盏金属的煤油灯，不像是民用的。再细看，上上下下每一层都有，各种形制。除了油灯之外，还有与铁路相关的标牌、工具、帽子等，应该是个铁路文物专柜，而那些金属的油灯则是铁路上的用灯，功用包括普通照明、机车照明、信号照明等。显然，一次看到这么多的铁路上的灯具还是第一次。毫不犹豫，将柜子里面的16件全部“包圆”，这将构成我未来的煤油灯博物馆中的铁路煤油灯的一个章节，真是得之于意外。面对这一大堆，是拿不走也带不走了。相约离开约克的前一天，买个旅行箱来装这些油灯。

接下来参观铁路博物馆、约克郡博物馆、城堡博物馆、军事博物馆、约克美术馆等，想得很多。一个小小的城市居然有那么多有特色的博物馆，怪不得它是除伦敦之外在英国排行第二的著名旅游城市，也是仅次于伦敦的游客最多的城市。约克作为历史文化小城，在古城墙围拢下，是怀旧的最好的地方，在这里的每一个瞬间都呼吸着古味的空气。街上不乏其它的古董商铺，有一家也有旗鼓相当的规模，可是处于商业街的氛围，加上其陈列的那些古董旧货的品质则远不如红房子。

几天之后按约买了一个大旅行箱又来到红房子。趁着工作人员在包装的机会，又走到里屋看看那铁路文物专柜，果不其然，又填得满满的如当初，但是，品质却远不如我此前所买。接着再上楼，无意中走进了一个满满当当的屋子，又有不少煤油灯。其中有一件全手工敲制的黄铜油灯，双捻，一看就是大户人家所有。那手工活绝了，必须拿下。请工作人员将它从上面拿下来，掂了掂，真是沉啊。回到住处之后称了称、量了量，5.7公斤，连灯罩73厘米，灯的主体48厘米。这个看来只能手拎了。对于其它，显然，这次不可能都据为己有，其它的只能等下一次来了。无疑，它们会等我。

红房子一景Scene of Red House

The longing for York is entirely due to the temptations inspired by DING Ning’s introductory words, saying that York is full of antiques and mostly very cheap. At the invitation of Professor Michael, director of the Art History Department at York University in this winter, we went to York University to give lectures after flying from Beijing to Manchester followed by trains to York. After arriving in York and getting off the train, my first feeling when seeing the York station was the genuine definition of the old imperialism and the Sun-does-not-set Empire, everything is well explained.Eye-filled steel frame and structure revealed the history and glory, the extraordinary quality is reflected in being old but undefeated, aged but not decayed after 140 years with full functions, it witnessed the three-century-long social changes of York and the United Kingdom since the 18th century. When the New York City emerged in the United States and became the most modern city in the world today, the railway station that was built in 1873 and put into use in 1877 remains the same. The sun of the Empire has set and rises in the United States. However, as one of England's greatest Victorian-style buildings, it used to be the largest train station in the world,and the demeanor of old gentleman remains unchanged.

There are many places worth visiting in York. Our visit encountered the approaching of Christmas, the ancient city was full of visitors with longing dreams. I still wanted to find out those antiques with my own eyes. Under DING Ning’s experienced guidance, we went into a building, a very famous local red house, which was not noticed as we were in a hurry. It is close to the famous cathedral, not far from the commercial street and even closer to the train station.Many people should have passed here in visiting the city, only few entered and those like us hunting for treasure should be fewer. If not due to its special color, the two-storey building is really not so striking. Though the Antique Centre is most visible on the walls between the first and second floor of the main façade, however, how many people would be interested in the Antique?

Climbing a few steps, it naturally led me to a room to the right with a glance at a few pieces of ancient Roman oil lamps on the cabinet. What a relief, I won’t return empty-handed. Each piece of antiques had a price tag clearly marked its identity and price, and some important antiques even had labels of that of museum exhibits, detailing related information, such as the era, material, circulation and others. The room was full of cabinets, each containing different antique or old things,some of them were from Asia, including China’s antiques and pottery figurines, which were very ordinary. Of course,I was not there for Chinese antiques. Each room there was not large, one after another, even the aisles were full of antiques, such as jewelry, ornaments, old clocks, tapestries,furniture, decorations and others. It was hard to tell the exact number of antiques in the store, anyway, almost everything,all the miscellaneous items, about 30,000 in number. The items here were not like those high-end exhibits at Yorkshire Museum, but in a large portion of a wide variety, many could not be found in museum. Therefore, here could be regarded as a supplement to the museums. A considerable portion of these miscellaneous items were evidence of York's history, a creation of history and culture. Items here for sale were from the ancient pottery to the oil lamps and statues of ancient Roman era, from daily necessities to handicrafts, really dazzling. In the case of antiques, these were not unearthed relics that have been scientifically excavated but were related to tombs, ruins and etc. Some of them were of great historical and artistic value, which I have always pursued. For example,the pottery lamp of the Palestinian Iron Age (1000-550 BC)seen at the Metropolitan Museum of Art and the New York Jewish Museum, the earliest lamp of European civilization that shaped a bit like a clam shell. Light twist had a special treatment to make it more practical, but what I saw was my first time in the market.

The diversity of cultural relics is out of people's imagination.People here would find a lot of fun and interesting contents,for instance, a cabinet is full of paintings and decorations and other related objects, there are portraits painted in ivory,small decorative painting and some small watercolor and so on. The level of the painting and the degree of sophistication completely belong to that of the museum. And these were usually submerged in museums because they were too small.These were all works of art that are related to the old-style imperialist lifestyles of the past. The content was linked to their time and the way of life, aesthetic traditions, and artistic trends in their countries. Undoubtedly, their artistic creation and the public's aesthetic interest were also linked. Therefore,those small portraits were drawn on some special materials,such as ivory. Its portability features also reflected the characteristics of the spread. Perhaps there might be many love stories here, many related to family history, and if taken together, we can see British traditional culture and cultural traditions, in particular, some special content in the family heritage. They have been passed down through means of art.Although some families today have dispersed, and some might decline already, yet what we feel is the sadness of Swallows of Previous Royal Families Fly into Home of Commoner when these works of art related to the past court, palaces, castles and the like have flowed into the private sector. There were stories and twists and turns as they flow to the private sector,providing a rare resource for private collection or as the content of special collections. Of course, such a resource was displayed today in the way of the "Curiosity Room" or "Cabinet of Curiosities", people would feel the vicissitudes of history.

This was by far the most unique and comprehensive antique shop, reminding me of the "Curiosity Room" or "Cabinet of Curiosities" of the museum’s origin. In the 16th century and the Jiajing period of the Ming Dynasty, many Chinese literati were searching for antiques and communicating and admiring each other through the methods of the garden gathering,thus bringing a unique way of making friends between the literati and the scholars. In the West, with the geographic discovery and the beginning of the Renaissance, the European world began its exploration of mysterious land and magical treasures. At that time, there was a popular double-door cabinet at home amongst aristocrats in the royal family and ordinary people, while various rare things gathered were put in this special cabinet. The collectors refer to these cabinets as "Curiosity Room" or "Cabinet of Curiosities", which are often viewed in museology as privatized display and showing cabinets as the early form of museum, the beginning of the private collection to the public. In historical development, the museum as a civilized bearing, no matter the collection, display or others, is a record of human civilization. This showcase of flamboyant possession and display of lust turned into a publicoriented entity, the museum open to the public, in China until the early 20th century. However, in ancient China, no later than the 16th century, the study from the imperial palaces to the literati always had a cabinet of Duobao, which is, in fact,also a collection of masters, revealing issue of showing off the wealth.

被“掠夺”之后的的柜子内已经没有油灯，显得空空荡荡It appears to be empty after the oil lamp is “plundered”from the cabinet

Each showcase here was associated with a collector or seller.Each has a different category from one another. Obviously,these antiques or second-hand items from different collectors or sellers were all concentrated in this building, which helped it earn the name of the so-called "center", which only has a history of 30 years,not long enough like that of the building. It was located at the Harrogate of the Yorkshire in 1986 at the beginning and moved to this red house on the summer of 1999, justifying the success of the previous operation. Here is sale home of antique collectors, also the place for exchanging. Today's antiques center is not only a collection of scattered collectors so that we all had our own places to showcase the collection and exchange, but also an institution in the overall form for its customers.This is a bit like the miniature version of the antique city, is to those antique city of each house or a few houses into a miniature shop. Therefore, when everybody who is interested in antique or second-hand junk goes in and does not actually need to walk through every showcase, he may have to visit one or more showplaces of his own interest. Because they are actually from the systematic collection of collectors as it is reflected in the completeness of the collection for a particular breed and the particular perspective or method of such collection of private sector.

The red house, the antique centre, had 10 rooms in total. After climbing two more steps and going through an aisle, there was a room. A few metal kerosene lamps in the showcase could be found upon entering the room, unlikely for civil use. Such lamps of different shapes were on each floor. In addition to the oil lamps, there were signs, tools, hats and others related to the railway, it should be counters for railway artefact. The metal oil lamp was for the use of railway, including general lighting, locomotive lighting and signal lighting. Obviously, it was the first time I saw so many lights related to the railway. Without any hesitation, all 16 items in the cabinet were "purchased completely", which will constitute a chapter in the railway kerosene lamp of my future kerosene lamp museum, and it really came as a surprise.Facing such large amount, I was advised to buy a suitcase to contain all these lamps before leaving York.

The following itinerary was to visit the Railway Museum, Yorkshire Museum, Castle Museum, Museum of Military Art, York Art Museum etc. A small city actually has so many unique museums, no wonder it ranked the second as the most famous tourist city after London in the United Kingdom, also the second city with so many tourists London. York, as a historical and cultural town, is the best place for nostalgia surrounded by the ancient city walls as every moment here breathed the ancient taste of the air. There is no shortage of other antique shops on the street, and one of them is well-matched. However, it was in the atmosphere of a commercial street,and the quality of those antique and second-handed items displayed on the street was far inferior to that of the red house.

A few days later, I bought a big suitcase and went to the red house. As the staff was packaging, I went into the room again, undoubtedly that the railway cultural relics counters were as filled as before, but the quality was far lower than those I had previously bought. Going upstairs, I inadvertently walked into a house full of kerosene lamps. Amongst them, one piece was a hand-crafted brass oil lamp, double twists, it must belong to a large family. That technique was marvelous and I must take it. I asked the staff to move it from above, and it was really heavy. It was 5.7kg after I returned home weighing, the lamp cover was 73cm and the main body was 48 cm. It seemed I had to carry it by hand. For the rest, it was clear that I could not take them all and they could only wait for the next time. Undoubtedly, they would wait for me.

3月2日至13日，由中国美术馆主办的“还携笔墨向高丘——欧豪年八十回顾展”在京举办。图为台湾画家欧豪年的中国画《台湾九十九峰》Hosted by National Art Museum of China, "In the Pursuit of Excellence in Ink and Brush"——A Retrospective Exhibition of OU Haonian at His Eighties has been held in Beijing from March 2-13. Chinese painting 99 Peaks of Taiwan by Taiwan painter OU Haonian.

1月31日至5月6日，“学院与沙龙”——法国国家造型艺术中心、巴黎国立高等美术学院珍藏展在中国国家博物馆举办。图为让-奥古斯特-多米尼克·安格尔的油画《朱庇特与忒提斯》School and Sharon—— a collection exhibition by French National Center for Visual Arts and Paris National Academy of Fine Arts has been held at National Museum of China from January 31 to May 6. Jupiter et Th é tis by Jean-Auguste-Dominique Ingres