瑞安古老民俗凝风情

肖璋

瑞安作为全国100个“千年古县”之一，早在三国吴赤乌二年（公元239年）始建罗阳县，后几经更名，唐天复二年（公元902年），因有白乌栖城北集云山，以为祥瑞，诏改名为瑞安县，沿用至今已1100多年。

千年的历史积淀，使瑞安流传在民间的民俗丰富多彩，曾有古老民谣：“正月灯，二月鸢，三月麦秆当鬼叫。四月田螺密密旋，五月龙船两头翘。六月六，洗狗秃。七月七，巧食杂‘麦麦。八月八，月饼馅芝麻，九月九，登糕满捣臼。十月十，吃柑橘，十一月，吃汤圆，十二月，糖糕印状元。”而保留比较完整的有曹村正月闹花灯、拦垟福、二月二芥菜饭、鲍田“百家宴”等。

流光溢彩曹村正月闹花灯

家家张灯结彩，户户灯笼高挂，村庄被映衬得五彩缤纷，如今每年的元宵节，200多年出82进士的“中华进士第一村”——瑞安市曹村镇都会有80多台大型花灯、6000多盏灯笼将大地装饰成一片美丽的灯海。在正月十五那夜，曹村元宵灯会开始巡游各村活动，会有舞龙、舞狮、腰鼓、鳌鱼、抬阁、七星、旱船，有踩高跷的，有扮八仙的，有扮状元骑马过街的，还有在温州一带特别流传的8种瑞兽组成的“八蛮”彩灯队，巡游队伍每到村口都会停下来表演。

这时，来赏灯的人越来越多，从城里来的，邻近村的，把曹村围得水泄不通，常常達数万，直到子夜12时，人才散了。

相传曹村元宵闹花灯起于南宋绍熙年间，曹村人曹叔远中进士后回乡探亲，乡里人专门制作一盏福星灯挂在村中金锁桥上，以表庆贺。而挂灯那天正值正月十五元宵节，元宵挂灯的习俗相传下来，越过越闹热，至今已有800年历史。

而元宵闹花灯的风俗原本在瑞安已是历史悠久，清嘉庆《瑞安县志》载：“通衢上编结彩幕，张灯，放小焰火，各里社庙尤盛。十三日谓之试灯，十四至十六日谓之正灯，十七谓之残灯，箫鼓歌吹之声，喧阗达旦，男女杂沓，致烦禁饬。”《温州府志》描述：“瑞安河乡一带赛会迎灯，惟曹村、梅岗首屈一指。是晚花篮之灯约数百盏，人物纸灯亦百余盏，极其工巧。”南宋思想家、文学家、政论家叶适的《元夕》诗云：“艾褐家绸阔阔裁，抱孙携子看灯来”。

田野上闹新春“拦垟福”

每年新春正月初九和正月廿十，是瑞安市桐浦镇一年一度的“十八社拦垟福”和陶山镇碧山一年一度的“十三社拦垟福”民俗活动日子。当天凌晨时分，村民组成的巡游队伍一路来游遍旧时称的十八社和十三社村庄，以祈盼在新一年给民众带来农渔业丰收、国泰民安。拦垟福民俗活动，是纪念当地能在海上护民护渔的海神——陶山镇碧山渡头村杨精义（杨府爷），相传此项活动始于宋代，已有近千年历史，被列入第四批瑞安市非物质文化遗产名录。

“拦垟福”又名“拦垟”，是温州农村地区的农民除虫害祈福丰收的一种民间祭祀风俗形式。在特定或选择的好日子里，一般是几个村村民联合在乡村社庙进行祈福活动，祈毕后，村民抬着庙中社神像，在各处田垟（稻田间）巡游，特别是在有严重虫害的田垟边巡游一周，求社神驱除虫害，祈保丰年。旧时巡游后要禁垟数日，村民不得出门。

临近拦垟福活动的日子，桐浦镇和陶山镇碧山各个村庄就忙碌起来，每个村庄村口都早早搭起花门竹牌楼，结上红彩，悬挂彩旗，挂起精美珠灯。沿街家家户户从楼顶挂下长长的“红绸”，系上松柏、柑橘、万年青，挂起大红灯笼。这几天，家中的主妇们也会上街购置食品，定做米塑大寿桃等，做好各项准备工作。

拦垟福活动开展那天的凌晨时分，碧山拦垟福巡游队伍由锣手和号手鸣锣开道，村民抬着杨府爷神像行走，从碧山寺出发巡游到各村。巡游队伍一到村口，随行的高音喇叭就响起，传出对新春佳节的美好祝福。此时此刻参加巡游队伍的人们，跳起了优美的千手观音舞、滚起龙凤呈祥的舞龙、舞着戏曲打扮封神榜人物、擎舞起了百家姓的彩旗。在沿村的田野边、道路上，人头攒动、热闹非凡，原本充满节日气息的村庄一下子沸腾起来。

瑞安乡间田野上的闹新春“拦垟福”活动极具民间民俗风情，它不但增添了传统春节的节日气氛，也让乡亲们一起享受民间传统文化的欢乐。

富有特色的二月二芥菜饭

每年的农历二月二，瑞安市曹村镇许岙村村民专门在村头支起大炉灶，用1500公斤芥菜、750公斤米和200公斤猪肉等食材做成芥菜饭，免费分发给村民和游客，传统的农历二月二吃芥菜饭融入浓浓的爱心。如今每到农历二月二，在村委会、社区和文化礼堂中，做芥菜饭免费分发给村民、居民和游客，已成为当地一个体现大家庭关怀和满溢温情的精神文明建设品牌。

自古以来，温州地区民间每逢农历二月二，家家户户都要煮绿白相间、口味宜人的芥菜饭吃。据说这一天吃芥菜饭，既不生疥疮，也不生瘟病，而且还能明目。大家一起吃着热腾腾的芥菜饭，其乐融融，极具农家生活气息，形成特有的二月二吃芥菜饭风俗。

而有民间传说，吃芥菜饭来自一次乾隆皇帝微服察访民情。旧时，二月的江南春意盎然，乾隆皇帝在江南微服察访民情时，一天来到浙南一农户家中。在家苦读诗书的张某热情好客，便请乾隆皇帝吃顿便饭。因家境贫困，正当准备做饭时，张某发现米缸里的米不够吃，又没菜肴。张某灵机一动，叫其妻先准备开火烧饭，自己从后门出去到菜园里剥来一把碧绿幼嫩的芥菜，加点佐料炒熟，和少量的白米饭合煮成一锅绿中夹白的芥菜饭。乾隆皇帝平时吃惯了山珍海味，而此时他的肚子里早已饥肠辘辘，一闻到这芳香扑鼻的芥菜饭，食欲大增，吃得津津有味，并赞不绝口，连问这绿里夹白的饭是怎么做的。张的妻子也不言家中贫困，笑着回答说：“这叫芥菜饭，吃了不会生疥疮。”

这天，刚巧是农历二月初二，大概是皇帝吃过芥菜饭，从此二月二吃芥菜饭的习俗便在温州和瑞安民间流传了下来。瑞安《民国瑞安县志》清楚地记载着：“取芥菜煮饭食之，云能明目，盖取清精之义”。二月二吃芥菜饭是浙南温州民间广为流传的习俗应该无疑。endprint

溫州瑞安特有二月二芥菜饭的主料：晚米、芥菜、猪五花肉。辅料：虾皮、香菇、猪油、香菜、红萝卜、盐等。刚出锅的芥菜饭香甘爽口，别有风味；盛在碗里，绿白相间，色彩和质感都很好。

鲍田行善济人的“百家宴”

每年的农历正月廿八，是瑞安市塘下镇鲍田举办一年一度“百家宴”的日子。这天的活动，又称“活佛娘娘”寿诞。鲍田戴氏后裔都会不远万里赶回老家，邀请周边的亲戚朋友，一起迎佛接福，祈求祥和富庶平安，共进百家盛宴。

据戴氏后裔戴岩娒介绍，鲍田的“百家宴”始于700多年前的宋朝，是一项纪念当地戴氏先贤戴如行善济人、扶危助困和村民祈福风调雨顺、五谷丰登、国泰民安的民俗活动。其民俗于2013年10月16日入选瑞安市第六批非物质文化遗产项目。

每年正值农历正月廿八，塘下镇鲍田村民们就会在村口摆起了四桌八仙方桌的供台，上面摆放着菜头（彩头）、芹菜（方言同“赚钱”谐音）、炊糕、粽子（意“高中”），及苹果、索面、瓜子、花生、桂圆、红枣、糖果等食品，各种供品达24礼（样），寄托着他们对先贤戴如的敬意，对未来的美好生活的祈愿。

上午，“活佛娘娘”寿诞踩街巡游队伍经过的时候，村民开始迎佛接福，祝愿新年五谷丰登，风调雨顺。村民们用传统的习俗文化，憧憬未来生活。

随着沿村踩街巡游的进行，塘下镇鲍田鲍一、鲍二、鲍三、鲍四等村的街道上，已是一路挂满了红灯笼彩旗，房屋挂满红色彩带，村口搭起了彩楼迎接巡游队伍。巡游队伍从鲍田的真身禅寺开始，一路上人们手洒净水，鸣锣开道，彩牌灯笼引路，吹班乐队响起，腰鼓笙声高奏，此时此刻队伍经过的村庄已是人山人海。

戴氏后裔每年的巡游结束，村里早准备了祠堂饭，而近年来祠堂饭渐渐演变成了各相邻村民和游客的大聚餐，成为增进交流和友谊的盛大聚会，被称为“百家宴”。“百家宴”一共要上甜糯米饭、什锦菜、三鲜汤、玉米排骨、腰果炒芹菜等10道素菜，都是用大米、豆腐和蔬菜做出来的，每年菜单基本相同。中午时分，在鲍田的鲍一、鲍二、鲍三、鲍四等村的街道上，迎来百家姓氏赴盛宴的壮观场面。只见红色的木制圆桌沿街一路排开，众人围坐在一起边吃边说笑着，共同享受大家庭特别的爱、特别的亲情和友情。

Ruian： Ancient County， Ancient Folk Custom

By Xiao Zhang

Ruian， a county-level city in southeastern Zhejiang， is one of the nations 100 counties whose have been in the government administrative system for more than 1，000 years. It became Luoyang County in 239 AD and changed its name several times. In 902， it changed its name to Ruian with an imperial decree after white magpies alighted in a mountain north of the county capital and was considered an auspicious sign. The name Ruian is 1，116 years old now.

Ancient Ruian has generated and maintained quite a few folk celebrations and customs. The following are several still well preserved and observed in Ruian.

Lantern Festival in Cao Village

The tradition started in the Southern Song Dynasty （1127-1279）. As local legend has it， Cao Shuyuan from Cao Village came out as in a triennial court exam. He returned to the village on the fifteenth day of the first month. To welcome back the village hero and express congratulations， villagers made a lantern and hang it high above a bridge in the center of the village. The tradition formed. Since then， making lanterns and demonstrating them on the fifteenth day of the first month on the lunar calendar has been around for over 800 years. In fact， Cao Village is indisputably the nations number one village in terms of producing ， best scholars who made their names in court exams. Over 200 years， the village produced 82.endprint

Nowadays， Lantern Festival at Cao Village is spectacular. Usually there are about 80 large-scale lanterns in the shape of legendary figures， flowers， animals and 6，000 small lanterns. On the Lantern Festival， a parade goes through Cao Village and goes to neighboring villages. Among the entertainers of the parade are dragon dancers， lion dancers， waist-drum dancers， dry-boat dancers， lanterns in the eight species of auspicious animals in regional folk legends， and many other local entertainers.

Lanyang Parade in Farmlands

Two places in Ruian hold this annual parade in the first month of year. Tongpu Town stages the parade on the ninth day whereas Taoshan Town on the 20th day. The former goes through a tightly associated rural community of eighteen villages and the latter entertains a community of 13 villages. Lanyang Parade honors Yang Jingyi， a folk-hero-turned god in local folk faith that first emerged in the Song Dynasty.

To prepare for the big parade， each village installs a festive archway at the entrance to the village and decorates it with flowers， red festoons and colored banners and strings of electric lamps. All the houses along the parade route have red silk streamers hanging from the rooftop down. The facades of these houses are decorated with pine twigs， oranges， evergreen plants and red lanterns. Housewives also purchase sacrifices， to be presented on a table in front of the house.

The parade starts in the early morning. At the head of the parade is a statue of Lord Yang carried by villagers. The parade visits all the villages in the community in turn. The parade also goes through farmlands to ensure that crops will be protected from bad insects in the year. For each of the two communities， one village organizes and stages an annual parade in turn for the whole community.

Stay-Healthy Meal

On the second day of the second month on lunar calendar， households across Wenzhou prepare and eat a stay-healthy meal. The tradition started in ancient times. In Xuao Village， Ruian， residents now prepare such a meal and provide the meal to fellow villages and tourists free of charge. The meal， made of 1，200 kg Chinese mustard， 750 kg rice and 200 kg pork as main ingredients， is distributed at the villages administration office， community center， and cultural center. As local legends have it， the incognito Emperor Qianlong of the Qing Dynasty （1644-1911）， was treated to such a meal during one of his southern royal inspections.

Village Banquet

Baotian Village holds a village banquet on the 28th day of the first month on the lunar calendar. The tradition started in the Southern Song Dynasty （1127-1279） to honor some ancestors of the Dai Family for their generosity. On the big day， the members of the clan come from all over Ruian to meet each other. A parade goes through the village first. Then a banquet is given at the clans memorial temple. Over years， the temple banquet has evolved. Nowadays， tables are arranged in a long row in a street and Dai descendents meet fellow villagers of other surnames. They eat happily. Tourists from neighboring villages and other parts of Ruian often join in. The menu for the banquet has not changed much over years. Vegans would probably like the banquet： most dishes are of vegetables， tofu， sticky rice， nuts.endprint