亚细亚，火油，重庆……你能想象这些词汇如何关联？

◇文|本刊记者 陈科龙 图| 刘汪洋

亚细亚，火油，重庆……你能想象这些词汇如何关联？

◇文|本刊记者 陈科龙 图| 刘汪洋

长江重庆朝天门下游15公里，有一个地方叫唐家沱，那是很多重庆人都知道的。而包括重庆人在内的很多人并不知晓的是，唐家沱曾被戏称“中国海军基地”。此戏称出自茅盾，他曾寓居唐家沱。

唐家沱，长江流入铜锣峡前形成的一个回水沱，是长江边上的天然水码头。它东靠铁山，南隔长江与放牛坪相望，西南隔江则有鸡冠石，三面环山。抗战期间，敌机很难对唐家沱形成俯冲轰炸，又因水运便利，成为一个躲避空袭的场所。曹禺便是在唐家沱的一艘船上，用3个月时间完成了巴金小说《家》的话剧剧本改编。

15km away from Chaotianmen Chongqing at the lower reaches, a place named Tangjiatuo is known by most Chongqing people. However, a lot of people, even Chongqing people, do not know that Tangjiatuo once was nicknamed as “China's Naval Base”; the saying was originated from Mao Dun, a renowned Chinese writer who once lived in it.

Tangjiatuo, a backwater bay that forms when Yangtze River flows into the Tongluo Gorge, is a natural dock on Yangtze River. It has Tieshan Mountain in the east and faces Fangniuping in the south, as well as Jiguanshi in the southwest with Yangtze River in between, so it is surrounded by mountains in three directions. During the anti-Japanese war, the enemy planes could hardly make dive bombing at Tangjiatuo. With convenient water transportation, Tangjiatuo became a wonderful place for people to hide from the air strikes. It is on a ship at Tangjiatuo that Cao Yu adapted the drama script of Ba Jin’s Home within 3 months.

重庆开埠的历史缩影Historical Epitome of Chongqing Port

提及唐家沱，绕不开亚细亚火油公司。早在抗战前的20世纪初，英国亚细亚火油公司便看中了唐家沱优良的水运条件，在此建造炼油厂及库房“安营扎寨”，向重庆乃至西南地区销售火油，同时兼营茶叶与烟类。

1890年，积贫积弱的清政府与英国签订《烟台条约续增专条》，重庆开为商埠。重庆成为开埠城市后，川江航运逐渐被西方列强控制，他们纷纷在重庆开设洋行、公司，建立工厂、开采矿山，倾销商品、掠夺原料。英商亚细亚火油公司即是其中之一。

1915年，重庆海关理船厅的港务管理规定，装运煤油的商船只能停泊在距离市区较远的唐家沱与苏家坝。1918年，英商亚细亚火油公司便将油库建于唐家沱，同时还修建了大班房、二班房、办公楼、储油罐、储油码头、车间等。

这些建筑依山势由低到高布局，共计三层台地。第一层台地建有桶装库房、炼油厂、储油码头及办公楼等。第二层台地建有二班房，以及大小两个立式钢结构、容量分别为8000吨和6000吨的储油罐。第三层台地为唐家沱的制高点，建有大班房及附属建筑。

We cannot talk about Tangjiatuo without mentioning Asiatic Petroleum Company. At the beginning of 1900s, Asiatic Petroleum Company preferred the convenient water transportation of Tangjiatuo and “set up a base camp” here by building processing plants and storehouses. It sold petroleum, tea and tobaccos to Chongqing and other regions in the southwest China.

In 1890, the impoverished and enfeebled Qing Dynasty government signed Additional Articles of the Treaty of Yangtai with Britain, and Chongqing was opened as a trading port. After that, the shipping on the upper reaches of Yangtze River was controlled by the western powers which continuously set up banks, companies and factories to exploit mines, dump commodities and plunder raw materials in Chongqing. Asiatic Petroleum Company was one of them.

In 1915, the port administration of Chongqing Customs and Shipping Office provided that the commercial ships that loaded and transported petroleum could only anchored at Tangjiatuo and Sujiaba which were far away from the urban district. In 1918, Asiatic Petroleum Company located its oil depot at Tangjiatuo and also built the house for general manager, the house for the secondary, the office building, the oil storage tank, the oil storage dock and the workshop etc..

These buildings were arranged from low to high in accordance with the physical features of mountains and were divided into three levels of terrace. The first level was built with the storehouse for barrels, the processing plant, the oil storage dock and the office building etc.. The second level was built with the house for the secondary, two vertical steel structures which include a big one and a small one, and two oil storage tanks whose volumes are 8000 tons and 6000 tons respectively. The third level, as the commanding point of Tangjiatuo, was built with the house for general manager and its accessory buildings.

亦远亦近的大班房House for General Manager, Far and Near

从海尔路驱车向铁山坪方向行驶，在唐家沱太阳海岸的别墅群旁，一栋古旧而不失气派的建筑孤零零地矗立在一个小山坡上。沿着杂草丛生的小路蜿蜒而上，寻访的脚步声惊醒了大门前两只酣睡的大黄狗，犬吠之声不绝于耳。

这栋修建在唐家沱小山顶的建筑，即是亚细亚火油公司的大班房，曾是总经理级别的英商住所。大班房门口的台阶前，立有一块“江北区文物保护单位”石碑，落款时间为1988年12月30日。

此处为唐家沱的制高点，视线平远而宽阔。举目望去，铜锣峡美景尽收眼底。61岁的陈其宪住在老房子旁边的一栋小平房里，在此守护大班房已有6年时间。老陈以狗为伴，自得其乐。

大班房的底层为五室一厅，各个房间通过大厅相连，大厅的前端为门廊，并设有一间门房。二楼的平面与底层大同小异，只是把底层门厅处改为通向阁楼的楼梯。楼房的正面带有哥特式建筑风格，用青砖砌成的八棱柱将一楼的门廊、二楼的阳台与三层的阁楼连为一体，形成挺拔向上的伸展态势，既气势恢宏，又富有变化。陈师傅说，整个楼房墙面的砖缝，全部是由糯米浆拌石灰粘连，平整而牢固。

小楼的栏杆早已不见踪影，日渐残破的大班房被后人用木桩支撑。研究山城建筑多年的欧阳桦介绍，大班房二楼的栏杆为宝瓶式，底层的栏杆为中式美人靠。大班房的屋顶为变形的歇山顶，采用的是英制进口绿黄色琉璃筒瓦。绕至大班房左侧的小山坡，能清晰地看到大班房的瓦当和滴水，四个角的主要瓦当图案为英式皇冠，而滴水上的图案则是中式的鲤鱼。

陈师傅曾听人说起，上世纪70年代，维修工在维修屋顶时，把大班房的避雷针拆下来当废铁卖了，结果左侧的壁炉烟囱被雷击中后坍塌。再后来，为安全起见，右侧的烟囱也被拆除，大班房的建筑外观受到了很大影响。

Driving along the Haier Road toward Tieshanping, you will see an antiquated but grand building next to the Sun Coast villas in Tangjiatuo standing alone on a hillside. When wriggling up a pathway that is overgrown with grass and weeds, if your footsteps wake up two big yellow dogs sleeping at the front door, their barks would linger around your ears forever.

插图 / 欧阳桦

This building at the hilltop of Tangjiatuo is the house for the general manager of Asiatic Petroleum Company. It was the residence for British businessmen of the general manager level. A stone tablet that is carved with the words “Cultural Relics Protected by Jiangbei District” is erected in front of the house, and the inscribed time is 30th December, 1988.

This place is the commanding point of Tangjiatuo, so its view is far and wide. You can have a panoramic view of the beautiful scenes of Tongluo Gorge. Chen Qixian, a 61 years old man, lives in a small single-storey house next to the house for general manager. He has guarded this house for 6 years. Accompanied by the dogs, he is quite content with his lot.

The ground floor of the house consists of five bedrooms and one hall which connects other rooms. At the front end of the hall is a porch with a janitor’sroom. The second floor and the ground floor are largely identical with only minor differences, and the porch is changed into a stairway to the attic. The front side of the house is Gothic. The eight-edges pillar of black bricks connects the porch at the ground floor, the balcony at the second floor and the attic at the third floor and forms an upward stretched posture with grandness and changes. Master Chen said that the brickwork joint of the walls of the whole building was pasted with the mix of glutinous rice paste and lime, so it is smooth and firm.

The handrails of the building have disappeared for a long time, and the dilapidated house are supported with wood piles by the later generations. Ouyang Hua who has studied the architectures of Chongqing for several years introduced that the handrails of the second floor is in bottle shape, while the handrails of the ground floor is in Chinese Meirenkao style(a kind of handrails wins its name for being sit by beauties and leaned along their waists). The roof of the house is a saddle roof that changes a little. The tiles are Britain-made green-yellow semicircle-shaped glazed tiles. The eaves and the dripping eaves of the house can be seen clearly from the hillside on the left side of the house. The patterns of the eaves on the four corners of the house mainly are crowns, while the patterns of the dripping eaves are Chinese carps.

插图 / 欧阳桦

Master Chen once heard about that in 1970s, the maintenance workers dismantled the lightningrod on the house and sold it as scrap iron when they were maintaining the roof, so that the chimney of the fireplace at the left side was struck by lightning and then collapsed. Later, for the sake of safety, the chimney at the right side was dismantled too, so the architectural exterior of the house was influenced a lot.

二班房已消逝在烟云背后The House for the Secondary Has Vanished Behind the Clouds

沿着大班房前的一条小路往江边下行，经过一坡长长的石梯坎，再绕过一栋墙壁上写有“工业学大庆”标语的老厂房，便来到了一所驾校的门前。驾校似乎已经停办，无人值守的大门也敞开着，宽阔的训练场空无一物，也寻不见亚细亚火油公司储油罐的踪迹。而残破的二班房，则位于训练场一角的土坡上。

二班房原来是一栋二层半的小洋楼，是亚细亚火油公司副手的住所，门前也有一块“江北区文物保护单位”的石碑。二班房已相当破败，门窗与屋顶都已损毁，房间内的地面杂草丛生，一些爬上了墙顶的藤蔓植物倒垂下来，给本就破败的小楼更添了几分颓废与荒凉。在底层的一间房屋内，英国人留下的惟一痕迹，便是壁炉，它虽被人拆走，但墙壁内烟囱依然残留了烟熏的痕迹。

离二班房不远的江边，是亚细亚火油公司的炼油厂及库房。这里有近十栋老建筑，如今是一家造船厂的工厂。其中，最气派的便是亚细亚火油公司的办公楼，靠山的一面有三层，靠江的一面有两层。后来的使用者，在原来古朴大气的办公楼外墙贴上了暗红色的瓷砖，显得格格不入。

其他的建筑基本保留了原来的风貌，规整的青砖墙体，坡度陡峭的屋顶，整齐划一的门窗，彰显着工业化建筑的大气与严谨。虽然是库房与厂房，但依然有许多细节体现出设计者的艺术品味：每一个窗框上的弧形装饰，都是用青石与红色砂石间插镶嵌；以青砖为主的外立柱，有规律地嵌入了砂石体。

Walk down toward the river along a pathway in front of the house for general manager. After a long stone steps, make a detour around an old plant with the slogan “Learn Industry from Daqing”, then you are in front of a driver training school which seemingly has closed for a long time. The front door is opened and has no guard. The wide training ground is empty and has little traces of the oil storage tanks of Asiatic Petroleum Company. The dilapidated house for the secondary is at an earth slope in the corner of the training ground.

The house for the secondary once was a small western-style building of two stories and a half and was the residence of the Secondary of Asiatic Petroleum Company. A stone tablet that is carved with the words “Cultural Relics Protected by Jiangbei District” is erected in front of the house too. This house is quite old and worn-out. Its doors, windows and roof have been broken. Grass grows anywhere on the ground inside the house. Some liana climbs to the top of the walls and then hangs upside down, which makes this dilapidated building more decadent and bleak. In a room at the ground floor, the only trace that the British people left behind is the fireplace. Although the fireplace has been removed, there are still some vestiges of smoke in the chimney.

The appearance of the house which is made of bricks and woods is relatively special. The height of the ground floor is about 1 meter. The saddle roof has collapsed quite a lot, and the black tiles on the roof are not much left. If observing carefully, you can see some fragmentary patterns of a Chinese character “Shou”(which means longevity) on the eaves and some bat patterns on the dripping eaves.

The processing plant and the storehouse of Asiatic Petroleum Company are at the riverside near the house for the secondary. Almost ten old buildings are used as the factories of a ship plant. Among them, the most splendid one is the office building of Asiatic Petroleum Company. It has three storeys at the side backing on mountains and two storeys at the side backing on the river. The later users pasted dark red ceramic tiles on the outer walls of this originally unsophisticated and splendid office building, which is quite a misfit.

Other buildings keep the original styles and features basically. The neat black-brick walls, the steep roofs and the uniform doors and windows show the grandness and strictness of the industrialized buildings. Even the storehouses and the plants reveal the artistic tastes of the designer with ample details: the curved decorations on each window frame are inlaid with black stones and red sandstone; the exterior pillar which is mainly made of black bricks is regularly inlaid with sandstone.

Asiatic, Petroleum, Chongqing...... Can You Imagine How these words are Connected?

Article/ Chen Kelong Pictures/ Liu Wangyang