那条鱼，在来凤古驿的往事里游弋千年

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那条鱼，在来凤古驿的往事里游弋千年

◇ 文|本刊记者 董 茜 图|受访者提供

四五斤重的鱼，用油两斤多。将现宰的鲜鱼切块，放热油中汆八九成熟时出锅。花椒、海椒、豆瓣酱、泡椒等佐料入油炒香……端上桌的来凤鱼，麻辣鲜香与嫩白的鱼肉配合得天衣无缝。江湖口味十足的来凤鱼，不知从什么时候起，被誉为重庆江湖菜的鼻祖得此地位，不仅与最具江湖气的口感有关，还有那段存续已久、被尘封在历史典籍中的故事。

A fresh fish, about four or five jin in weight, is cut into chunks, boiled in hot oi weighed over 2 jin, and got out of the pot when it is almost well down. Such seasonings as Chinese red pepper, chilli, thick broad-bean sauce, and pickled chilli are fried…Then we get a tongue-numbing, spicy, fragrant dish of Laifeng Fish, a dish hailed as the ancestor of Chongqing Jianghu cuisine. Its highly position results not only from its flavor, but also a story in history.

唐代“烧鱼尾”“Shaowei Feast” in the Tang Dynasty

来凤鱼，刚刚被列入重庆市第五批非物质文化遗产名录。作为非遗传承人的龙大江，才被更多“好吃狗”所认识。说起来凤鱼，吃过的人总会将它与那盘用红辣椒和大红袍花椒覆盖、鲜嫩醇厚的白色鱼片联系起来。而每每与食客聊及来凤鱼，龙大江总会惯性地普及一个概念：来凤鱼不是一道菜，是一个涵盖了120多道菜品的“来凤鱼菜系”。“偏爱江湖菜的重庆人，都应该知道这个事。”龙大江固执地认为，这不仅仅关乎一道菜，更关乎那段应该被知晓的来凤往事。

要寻根来凤鱼江湖菜“鼻祖”的美誉，绕不过璧山区来凤镇。穿梭于来凤镇书香怡景的古街巷口，当地人会不自觉指引游客，去看看那段位于古街中心区域的老墙。

老墙上嵌着一块颇有年头的石碑。石碑中间竖刻着“新开坦（途）”四个字。虽风化，石碑上的字依旧可见：“前来凤桥系驿站冲道每逢场期人多□□行春苦□开新路中造石桥自西路口至东路口计长一百三十八丈四尺俱系募资在田中新砌大路以便行人。”左边是：署璧山县事。最末一排刻着：嘉庆十七年岁次壬申仲夏揭立。

石碑残存文字描写的人来人往景象，正是来凤古驿昌盛时期的面貌。作为成渝古驿道上最大的一个商驿，来凤驿与龙泉驿、双凤驿并称古驿三金花。早在唐代来凤建镇、设置军寨时，迎官接驾、换马休息的繁华已让来凤古驿声名远播。盛产鲜鱼的来凤镇，用鱼待客、商用，早已成为街头吃市最上台面的菜品。“来凤鱼江湖地位的奠定，就应该从那时的烧尾宴说起。”为了申报非遗项目，龙大江把来凤鱼的前世今生整理了个遍。

烧尾宴，自唐代就是官员升迁、学子高中时举行的一场盛大宴会。在来凤镇，以鱼为贵的习俗中，“烧鱼尾”也正是宴席上的压轴菜品。承载庆贺礼仪习俗的“烧鱼尾”，经历千年，到民国时期依旧非常时兴。

Laifeng Fish was listed among the fifth batch of Chongqing intangible cultural heritage a short while ago, and thus Long Dajiang, a traditional bearer of intangible cultural heritage, was known by more foodies. The mention of the dish always reminds one who has tasted it of tender white fresh flesh covered with chili and Chinese red pepper. Long Dajiang would always explain the concept of Laifeng Fish to food aficionados: it is not a dish but a cuisine consisting of more than 120 dishes. “Jianghu cuisine fans in Chongqing should know the concept,” he insisted, “It is not only about a dish but also a chapter of history of Laifeng Town, which should be made known.”

The popular acclaim of Laifeng Fish originated in Laifeng Town, Bishan District. Locals of this town would guide travelers to see an ancient wall in the central district of ancient alleys.

A time-honored stone tablet is inlayed in the wall. Despite weathering, the characters on it are still discernible, describing the hustle and bustle of Laifeng ancient courier station when it was prosperous.

As the largest courier station along the Chengdu-Chongqing ancient courier station route, Laifeng courier station is among “three golden flowers of ancient courier station”, another two of them being Longquan and Shuangfeng courier stations. In the Tang Dynasty, Laifeng Town was built where fastnesses were set up. During that period, the courier became famous, as it was extremely prosperous, where officials were welcomed and couriers rested. Laifeng Town abounding with fish, people there treated guests to fish, and sold and bought fish, making it the most popular dish in the restaurants. “The great status of Laifeng Dish stemmed from the ‘Shaowei Feast’ back then.” Long Dajiang researched into the history of the dish in order to apply to the government to make it one of the intangible cultural heritage.

Since the Tang Dynasty, “Shaowei feast” has become a grand dinner party to celebrate official’s promotion and students’ good results in the imperial examina-tion. As fish were the most valued by Laifeng people,“Shaowei” became the last but crucial dish in the banquet. The dish, customarily carrying celebration and wishes, was still prevailing in the Republic of China era.

以鱼兴业的来凤驿Fish-Driven Business

2016年7月，来凤鱼被列入重庆市级非物质文化遗产名录。因为这件事，来凤鱼的历史文化被首次清晰地推向世人。此前，“来凤鱼”这条被来凤镇看作宝贝的鱼，一直为当地带来可观的经济效益。仅仅2016年一年，就为来凤街道创造了2400多万元收入。

来凤鱼的蝴蝶效益，从宋代就已非常明显。来凤明代碑载，当时声名远扬的以来凤鱼为卖点的酒楼，就有王来鱼楼、醉春风楼、浮玉亭楼等。酒楼均在河岸边，吊脚楼式建筑。每每入夜，灯火辉煌，热闹非凡。酒楼、娱乐的兴盛，更吸引着南来北往的客人。以鱼兴盛的餐饮业沿袭至今，以来凤鱼为招牌菜的璧山餐馆就以千计。

多如繁星的来凤鱼餐馆酒楼，在食客味蕾间蹿红大江南北。当下，在世界各地的唐人街，同样也能看到来凤鱼的身影。喜欢吃鱼的人们，为求正宗甚至不惜专程到来凤追根溯源。然而，往往因为口感上的各种差异，无法辨来凤鱼真身。

5月的一天，因为申报非遗的事，龙大江在办公室和朋友闲聊。连续忙于琐事半月的龙大江，被朋友的一个疑问彻底挑怒。“你是非遗传承人，那你给我说说，啷个做一盘来凤鱼才最正宗。”“来凤鱼120多道菜，你说哪个最正宗？”看得出来，龙大江是强压着怒气，追加了一句“你娃就是不懂历史”。

虽是个插曲，但朋友对于正宗来凤鱼的追问，其实也是“好吃狗”的普遍误区。对很多重庆人来说，来凤鱼就是一道菜，就是那盘堆积着红海椒和花椒的麻辣鱼。

Laifeng Fish was listed among Chongqing intangible cultural heritage in June, 2016. Accordingly, the history and culture attached to it were made known to people for the first time. At one time, the dish, valued by Laifeng people, always brought considerable benefits to the town, creating over 24 millon yuan income in the year of 2016 alone.

The remarkable Butterfly Effect caused by Laifeng Fish originated from Song Dynasty. According to a stone tablet in the Ming Dynasty, there were many restaurants run on Laifeng Fish, including Wanglai Fish, Zuichunfeng and Fuyuting. Those stilted wooden houses were built along the riverbank, which turned into a bustling place aflame with light in the dark. The flourishing restaurants and entertainment venues attracted customers from across the nation. Now the catering industry carrying on as before, thousands of restaurants in Bishan District take Laifeng Fish as their specialty.

The numerous restaurants selling Laifeng Fish shot to fame across the country among diners. Currently, Laifeng Fish can be found in each China Town. Fish goers even travel all the way to Laifeng Town to find the original fish taste. However, the various flavors make it hard to pursue it.

One day in May, in the office, Long Dajiang was chatting with his friend about the application of intangible cultural heritage on Laifeng Fish. "Since you're the bearer, tell me, among the various Laifeng Fish dishes which is the most authentic one.” Long Dajiang was enraged by his words, “Over 120 Laifeng dishes, you tell me which one is.” Obviously, Long locked up his anger and added, “You just don’t know the history attached to it.”

The question about Laifeng Fish, which Long’s friend asked, reflects the misunderstanding of manyfoodies. For Chongqing people, Laifeng Fish is just a course, the Spicy Fish piled up with chili and Chinese red pepper.

120多道菜都叫“来凤鱼”120“Laifeng Fish” Courses

“大家认识的来凤鱼，应该叫麻辣鱼，或是豆瓣鱼这两种。”龙大江脾气有些急躁，他耐着性子，把一堆刚剪好的干海椒和一碗红艳艳的豆瓣酱推到我们面前。两道菜选用的佐料不一样，烧制的手法不一样，呈现出来的样子和最后的口感都有很大的区别。龙大江认为，这就是人们吃到各种不同的来凤鱼、反而越来越迷糊的原因。

产生这些困惑的原因，他认为还是与来凤鱼的历史有关。“查找相关的历史记载，我们现在吃的麻辣口感来凤鱼，应该是沿袭了宋代比较流行的一种烹鱼手法。”在龙大江翻阅的古籍记载中，最接近现代来凤麻辣鱼的“辛辣鱼”，就出自状元冯时行之手。在当时，作为状元的冯时行非常喜爱吃鱼，也会亲自烹饪“辛辣鱼”接待贵客。但要追溯现代来凤鱼技艺的起源店，就要数康熙时来凤最著名的鱼店邓家鱼馆。

道光璧城举人邓洪享的《双三娘鱼艺》中记载：乾隆初，吾族女高祖三娘始改为食肴，以不费物之故。三娘喜制麻辣鱼，烹群鲫过江、龙舟鱼、善以双乌（鱼）炸制双龙戏珠，单乌炸乌龙吐珠，形色皆备报精工，肉皆酥香、脆美，渝（州）璧（山）宾客叹赞云，妙绝冠世。“来凤鱼多种烹饪手法沿袭下来成就的不同鱼菜，缘于邓家鱼馆多年经营的不断创新。”龙大江在来凤鱼的申遗材料中，特意将120多道菜品集合申报。在他看来，来凤鱼的几十种烹饪技艺，120多道来凤鱼菜品，正是对来凤鱼历史的一种追溯和认证。“吃出美味，是对来凤鱼的评价。吃出历史，才是对来凤鱼的认可。”

"The well-known Laifeng Fish is also called Spicy Fish or Fish stewed by thick broad-bean sauce." Long Dajiang explained. He cut a pile of dry chili and Chinese red pepper and spread it in front of us. The two courses differed in seasonings and cooking methods, and their colors and flavors are notably different. That was the reason why people get confused when tasting various flavored Laifeng Fish, Long Dajiang believed.

However, Long Dajiang thought the reason for their confusion derived from the history of Laifeng Fish.“According to historical records, the spicy Laifeng Fish originated from the Song Dynasty.” “Pungent Fish,”similar to present spicy Laifeng Fish, was created by Feng Shihang, a Number One Scholar, who was very fond of eating fish and also cooked “Pungent Fish” to treat distinguished guests. The origin of modern cooking skills of Laifeng Fish dated back to Deng’s Fish, the most famous restaurant in the Kangxi reign during the Qing Dynasty.

In the Daoguang reign, Deng Hongxiang, a firstdegree scholar in Bicheng, recorded in his book, Shuang Sanniang’s Fish-Cooking Skill: early in the reign of Qianlong, Sanniang revised recipes for the reason of saving seasonings. She was fond of cooking spicy fish, schools of carp, Dragon Boat Fish, double mullets and single mullet. Those courses she made were in perfect color and delicacy, which tasted crispy and delicious. Diners in Yuzhou and Bishan Districts were full of praise and complimented it one and only. “Deng’s Fish continuously made innovation in cooking Laifeng Fish, which brought about various fish courses.” Long Dajiang declared in the material, where over 120 courses were included, which was prepared for intangible cultural heritage application. In Long’s opinion, dozens of fish-cooking skills and over 120 courses identified the history of Laifeng Fish, and they have proved to be a memory of the history. “The delicacy of Laifeng Fish wins diners’ approval while the history of it wins their respect.”

The Fish Wandering in the Long History of Laifeng Ancient Courier Station

Article | Dong Qian Pictures | Interviewee