重庆记趣

□ 文/高兴明

重庆记趣

□ 文/高兴明

这是一个古老而神奇的地方，公元前17世纪商周时期，巴人以此为首府，建立了巴国，迄今已有三千多年悠久灿烂的文化历史。

这是一个矗立于长江和嘉陵江交汇处的城市，因水而起，因商而兴，中国行政区域最大、人口最多、中西部地区唯一的一个中央直辖市。

这是一个十分诱人的城市，城在水中，水在城中，兼具山之俊伟，水之灵气，就像一个健美男人，肌肉发达，棱角分明，无处不透出它“雄起”的独特魅力。

这里，因公元1189年南宋光宗赵惇因其先后在此被封为恭王，后又得以称帝，以“双重喜庆”的含义，改名为“重庆”。山城，是这座城市的主城区，在两江交融中依山而建，不仅穿街走巷还需爬坡上坎，目前正朝着国际化大都市高速发展。在这里，你会无处不感到他的青春勃发，趣事繁多。现略列三、四，是为趣人趣事。

随叫随到的重庆棒棒儿

重庆依山傍水，被称为山城。在过去城市交通尚不完全便利的时候，在山城中有一个特殊的群体，在大街小巷都会看到一些三五成群、穿着简单的人，手中持有一根棒棒儿，棒子上系着两根青色的尼龙绳，满街头招揽力活。他们是山城街头的交通运输员，他们被称为棒棒儿。在这群人当中，有年轻力壮的，也有年纪偏大的，或蹲或站，或三五成群围在一起席地而坐，或聊天拉家常，或打牌扳手腕，脸上都透着笑容，眸子燃着期盼，说一口地道重庆话，向手提东西的路人招徕生意。你只要稍微留意，几乎在每个公共汽车站或是轮船码头或是购物场所，都能看到三五成群的棒棒儿。每当一辆公车到站或是轮船鸣笛停靠码头，他们的眼里就放出光亮，希望走下来的人能喊一声“棒棒儿”，然而这种光亮常常也会瞬息即逝。于是，他们又等待下一轮车船的停靠，周而复始。就这样，他们在等待——劳作——再等待——再劳作中过日子，是因为家里还等着他们把挣得的钱赶紧拿回去急用，比如小孩上学、父母看病抑或是买种子买化肥。他们虽然很辛苦很劳累，但过得或许并不比我们差。

棒棒儿的产生，源于山城的特殊地形和码头经济，城区依山而建，出门就爬坡，下船即上坎，其他交通运输工具去不了，搬运东西成为难题，于是棒棒儿这个行业就应运而生。市民如果不想自己动手，就叫一声“棒棒儿”，即有人应声而到。

2007年，“重庆农民工日”正式成立，重庆棒棒儿们也和其他进城务工农民工一道有了自己的节日，得到社会的广泛尊重。

重庆美女：城市里最迷人的灵魂

重庆是一个美女群居的城市，漂亮女人随处可见。机关的女办事员、企业的女白领、学校的女学生、窗口的女售货员、酒店里的女服务员、医院的女护士、公路上的女交警……，美女出现在社会的各个领域，各个阶层，各个场所。你只要稍微一留意，去公共厕所的路上都会遇见得到，让你不住回头一望。

重庆女人之所以美，主要得益于三个方面。一是重庆独特的地理环境。一方水土养一方人，重庆地势陡峭，几乎每时每刻都在上坡下坎，两江四岸的梯坎锻炼出重庆女人挺拔向上和腿形纤长线条优美的身材。二是重庆的气候。重庆常年多雾，有“雾都”之称，湿润空气使人皮肤长期处于保湿状态，所以重庆美女皮肤天然的水灵，即便不化妆皮肤一样骄人。三是重庆的人文。重庆美女皮肤很细嫩，身材很特别，不仅有健康感，而且特别让人有回眸的感觉。

看重庆美女有四大区域：解放碑、北城天街、三峡广场和南滨路。重庆女人不能以相貌论年龄，否则，你会赌输的。我原来单位就有一个去年退休的女同志，看上去也不过40岁出头。她说退休了，结果很多人都惊讶：“哇！你都退休了？”在重庆这样的事经常发生。重庆很美，重庆美女则是这座城市里最迷人的灵魂。

绚丽缤纷的重庆夜景

当火红的太阳从西边隐去，天空渐渐地暗了下来。我漫步在南滨路的步道上，凉爽的江风带着湿润送来阵阵宜人的芬芳。这是一条近几年才繁华起来的风情街，靠山一面全是餐饮店，靠长江一面是绿树掩映的步道。柳树在微风的抚摸下，轻轻地摆动起它的秀发，跳起轻柔而优美的舞蹈。月光如流水一般，静静地泻在江面上，与江水辉映交融，构成了一幅漂亮的图画。

沿着步道来到弹子石，这里是观看重庆朝天门夜景的最佳地方，渝中半岛尽收眼底。重庆主城三面临江，一面靠山，倚山筑城，建筑层叠耸起，道路盘旋而上，城市风貌十分独特，每到夜晚，江、山、灯浑然一体，由此形成绮丽夜景而闻名海内外。纯净的江水像一面明镜，倒映着晃动的树影和高楼的身躯。在长江、嘉陵江蜿蜒交汇处，朝天门就像一首扬帆的巨轮。从重庆港高楼上投下的霓虹灯不停地旋转，划过深蓝的夜空，成了夏夜中一道靓丽的风景线，好似巨轮的探照灯在指明方向。巨轮上，灯火辉煌，错落有致，如钻石群雕，极为瑰丽；江中百舸争流，流光溢彩。长江大桥、朝天门大桥、菜园坝大桥、大佛寺大桥上装满了彩灯，五颜六色，犹如道道彩虹，从天而降，倒映在江面上，波光粼粼。

我们驱车来到南山一棵树的观景台，这是看包括渝中半岛、江北、南岸、沙坪坝、九龙坡、大渡口在内主城夜景全貌的极好地方，渝北和巴南的部分夜景也能收入眼中。在这里你会看到，以繁华区灯饰群为中心，干道和桥梁华灯为纽带，万家民居灯火为背景，层层叠出，构成一片高低井然、错落有致、曲直相映、远近互衬的灯的海洋。以上清寺人民大礼堂、三峡博物馆、曾家岩为中心，通向解放碑、江北、沙坪坝、大坪方向的道路上和嘉滨路、北滨路、沙滨路，路灯如连串的夜明珠向远方延伸，行道树上的灯光色彩缤纷，川流不息的汽车来来往往，两旁的路灯排着整齐的队伍，伸长脖子，像一个个士兵在保护着行人的安全。路边，一座座高楼大厦拔地而起，家家户户都开上了明亮的灯。两江四岸的路灯宛若繁星，每栋房子的四周，五颜六色的犹如丝带的彩灯，灯光相互交织，色彩变幻无穷，忽明忽暗。

我们下了山，又来到两江新区看喷泉。在北部新区的幸福广场，人山人海，无数霓虹灯在闪烁，五光十色，有的组成各种各样的形状，成了音乐喷泉开始前的一道亮丽的风景，前来观灯赏景的游人络绎不绝。只见喷水池上空出现了水雾喷发有点模糊的画面，随即音乐喷泉开始了。起初喷泉只是一簇簇矮矮的小银柱，随着音乐的响声逐渐变高。它们变化多端，有的像大小不同的贝壳，有的像一簇簇五颜六色的珊瑚，有的像孔雀开屏，有的像一个个仙女舞动着长袖……音乐悦耳动听，彩光中的喷泉随着音乐的节奏起伏着，喷泉时高时低，时起时落。有的像仙女的飘带，有的像怒放的荷花，有的像舞台上的芭蕾演员……忽然，喷水池喷起一束百十米高的银柱，真像一艘火箭直射长空。

我爱重庆夜景。那勃发的音乐喷泉，难道不是重庆人民迸发出来的蓬勃生机与活力吗？

非吃不可的重庆火锅

重庆的饮食文化在整个中国烹饪文化中具有鲜明的个性，重庆是江湖菜和麻辣火锅的根据地。

在重庆的餐饮业中，火锅又最为出名，在全国乃至世界也是耳熟能详的特色美食，飞机还在重庆上空，你就能嗅到火锅的香味。吃重庆火锅对当地人来说简直就是一种享受，出差前要吃顿火锅，出差回来的第一餐要吃火锅。外地人到重庆一定要吃火锅，那是一种体验，素有“不吃火锅，未到重庆”一说。

重庆火锅具有300多年的历史，起源于朝天门码头。当时，在这里的几个力夫（俗称“棒棒儿”）发现一些大户人家、地主老财，把杀猪杀牛后的内脏全扔在了长江嘉陵江，太可惜了，于是捡起来洗干净，就在码头的沙坝上用几坨石头垒起个锅灶，舀几瓢江水，放上一些辣椒和适量盐巴，然后围着铁盆，各人认定一格，且烫且吃。结果不仅解决了温饱，还御寒祛湿，味道好极了！就这样火锅逐渐开始演变，花椒、大蒜、生姜……荤与素、生与熟、麻辣与鲜甜、嫩脆与绵烂、清香与浓醇等美妙地结合在一起。重庆火锅的种类有很多，比如鸭肠火锅，鳝鱼火锅、老鸭汤火锅等，吃重庆火锅的人数也不一，可以是一人，也可以是几人几十人甚至几百人，前两年在南滨路就举办了一次万人同时在一个火锅里吃的活动，并获得了世界吉尼斯纪录。重庆火锅的锅型有单锅、连锅、格格锅、鸳鸯锅，麻辣程度有微辣、轻辣、麻辣、重辣，都会因为顾客人数的多少和口味而异。

在夏天，你也别嫌周围吃火锅的人不雅观，一桌人围着红彤彤的火锅，男人光着上身，女人光着膀子，摇着蒲扇或是一个黑黢黢的大电扇凳在旁边，翻扑克、猜拳令、喝啤酒，吃得不亦乐乎，毛肚、鸭肠、黄喉、鳝鱼、肉片、肥肠、血旺、豆芽，想吃什么就煮什么。

重庆，非去不可！重庆火锅，非吃不可！

This is a time-honored and marvelous place where the Ba people built their capital and founded the State of Ba during the Shangzhou Dynasty. To date, its long history and splendid culture have lasted for more than three thousand years.

This is a city standing at the juncture of Yangtze River and Jialing River. The rivers gave birth to the city, and commerce secured its rise. In fact, it is now a city with the largest administrative area as well as population and the only municipality directly governed by the Central Government in Middle and Western China.

This is an absolutely tempting city, embraced by the two rivers, which also run through its territory. It has been endowed with the majesty of the mountain and the purity of the water. Like a fit man with powerful muscle and a clear-cut look, the city is showing a unique vibrant charm all over its land.

Here in 1189, Zhao Dun, Emperor Guangzong of Southern Song Dynasty had first been promoted Prince of Gong and became the emperor of China, who then changed the name of the city to “Chongqing” which literally means double celebration. The so called “mountain city” constitutes the main urban area of the municipality, which is based on the hill at the back and overlooking the rivers. That’s why so many narrow streets and lanes as well as steep slopes can be found. It is developing itself towards an international municipality. Here in the city, vigor and vitality can be felt everywhere, and interesting things are not uncommon. The following are some interesting stories of the people and anecdotes in the city:

Chongqing Bangbang (porters) at your DisposaI

Chongqing stands by the rivers and the mountains, and is thus called mountain city. In this city, there is a special group of people who can be found on the broad streets or narrow alleys. Dressed simple and plain, each of them carries a bamboo or wood pole with two black nylon ropes on both ends, and hangs around the streets waiting for business. They are the porters on the streets of this mountain city and are called Bangbang. Among them, there are the young and strong, and also the senior-aged. They often stand or squat, or gather in three or five sitting together on the ground, chatting, playing cards or arm-wrestling. Smiles are always on those faces, and you may find the glimmer of hope in their eyes. They speak Chongqing dialect, rich in expressions and funny in intonation. They wave hands to the passers-by to get business. If you keep your eyes open, you may find their presence in almost every bus station, dock or shopping place. Whenever a bus arrives at the station or a ship stops at the dock, their eyes shine with a hope that someone might cry out the words “Bangbang”. However, this glimmer in their eyes often disappears quickly. And then, they begin waiting for the next ship to come. They spend their days in waiting and working, and repeat the process again and again. They do this because their family needs the money, maybe for their children to go to school, their parents to pay the medical bills or to buy seeds and fertilizers. Their work is exhausting but they are no less happy than us.

Bangbang porters come into being because of the special topography and the port economy of the mountain city. The urban area is built near the mountains, and people have to climb the slopes when they come out of their home or get off the ship. When things can only becarried instead of using vehicles, Bangbang come as needed. If people don’t want to carry things by themselves, then shout out “Bangbang” and they will heed your call.

Now, the local government has designated the first Sunday of November each year to be the Migrant Workers’ Day. Like other migrant workers, the Bangbang porters are well respected by the society.

Chongqing GirIs: Most Charming SouIs in the City

As an icon of the city, beautiful girls are ubiquitous in Chongqing. Female government clerks, office ladies, school girls, salesladies, waitresses, nurses, policewomen…They appear in all fronts, all levels and all positions of the society. One may even encounter one at any place.

The beauty of Chongqing girls mainly derive from three aspects, and the first one is the unique geographic environment. As precipitous terrain is unique to Chongqing, girls here need to climb or descend stairs at any time and thus have slim figures. Second, pleasant climate. Known for foggy weather around the year, Chongqing is also called the “Foggy Capital”. Moisturized with humid air, local girls have hydrated skin even without wearing make-ups. Third, unique charm. One may stare at Chongqing girls not because of their astonishing athletic beauty, but also their lingering charm.

The following are four spots to encounter beautiful Chongqing girls: Jiefangbei, Beichengtainjie, Three Gorges Plaza and Nanbin Road. None of the local women can be told by their age. In the place I used to work, a female co-worker looks at her 40s but has already retired, which amazed a lot of people. Such “wows” always happen in Chongqing. Last year, a male cadre was sent from Beijing to the office in Chongqing, and always joked with the female chief who looked very pretty and young. He, however, was rendered speechless after finding out that her child was old enough to attend college. Among all beauties of Chongqing, the local girls are the most enchanting souls of this city.

SpIendid Night View of Chongqing

While the fiery sun retreats from the west, the sky dims out. Strolling on the pathway of Nanbin Road, I was refreshed by the fragrant and cool river breeze. This is a commercial street gaining prosperity only in the recent years with restaurants on the mountain side and pathways canopied by trees on the Yangtze River side. Caressed by the breeze, willows danced gently and gracefully. The moonlight tranquilly shed on the river surface and merged with the water into a picturesque view.

I approached Danzishi along the pathway, which was the best place for Chaotianmen night views and Yuzhong Peninsula. The Chongqing proper is embraced by rivers at three sides and mountains on one side. As the city is built along the terrain, buildings pile up one after another and the roads find their way up the hills. The unique landscape is featured by a unity of rivers, mountains and lights during the night, hence the splendid night view is known home and abroad. Resembling a mirror, the clear river reflects swaying trees and towering buildings. At the juncture of Yangtze River and Jialing River, Chaotianmen stands just like a giant steamship. Neon lights projected from skyscrapers at Chongqing port keep swirling through the blue night sky and form a shiny view in the summer night, resembling the searchlight of the ship for directions. On the “ship” per se, numerous lights cluster together like magnificent diamonds with radiant splendor on hundreds of boats in the river. Yangtze River Bridge, Chaotianmen Bridge, Caiyuanba Bridge and Dafo Temple Bridge are all ornamented with colorful lights rippling through the river.

Mounting to the viewing deck at Yikeshu, Nanshan Mountain, we found it is a vantage point to the overall night view of Yuzhong Peninsula, Jiangbei, Nanan, Shapingba, Jiulongpo and Dadukou districts and some view of Yubei and Banan. Here one can see an light ocean with from high and low, near and far of different layers centered upon the downtown areas and linked by the artery roads and bridges. Revolving upon Shangqingsi People’s Auditorium, Three Gorges Museum and Zengjiayan, the strings of light pearls stretch all the way from Jiefangbei, Jiangbei, Shapingba, Daping to Jiabin Road, Beibin Road and Shabin Road. Lamp poles flank the roads with busy traffic just like soldiers sticking out chins to protect pedestrian safety, casting colorful light on trees. On the roadside, tall buildings rise above the ground and every household is lit up. Flickering lights on two rivers and four banks surround the buildings in the shape of silk ribbons by intertwining each other in infinite colors.

Then we went down the mountain to watch the fountain inLiangjiang New Area. On the Happy Plaza, Beibu New Area, numerous visitors gather to enjoy the dazzling neon lights in various shapes before the start of music fountain. First, a blurry water mist appeared above the spray pool, and the music fountain began. In the beginning, the fountain was only made of clusters of low silver columns, as music got louder, it changed to multiple shapes such as various shells, clusters of colorful corals, peacocks displaying features and fairies dancing with long sleeves… The fountain undulated with the melody with ups and downs, resembling fairy’s belts, blossoming lotus flowers and ballet dancers on the stage…All of a sudden a 100-m high column surged in the pond, impressing people like a rocket in the space.

I love the night view of Chongqing. Isn’t the thriving music fountain full of vitality and dynamism just like Chongqing people?

Chongqing Hotpot: A Must Try DeIicacy

Standing out with strong characteristics in China’s culinary culture, Chongqing diet is represented by grassroot dishes and spicy hotpot.

Undoubtedly, hotpot is the most well known in China and the world among all Chongqing cuisines. As an exaggerated saying goes, one can smell hotpot when fly above Chongqing. Eating Chongqing hotpot is sheer enjoyment to local people, as they must have one before travelling to other places and another upon the return. Non-locals certainly would not miss the hotpot in Chongqing because it is a precious experience here. As the saying goes, one has not tasted the hotpot comes to Chongqing in vain.

With a history of over 300 years, Chongqing hotpot originates from the quay of Chaotianmen. At that time, several porters found the discarded animal guts in the Yangtze River and Jialing River by wealthy people and developed a unique way of cooking by building a stove with stones, mixing chili and salt with the river water, soaking the cleaned guts in the pot and eating from different partitions. Apart from filling the stomach with amazing taste, the hotpot also fends off the cold air and humidity. Then it keeps evolving with other spices such as brown pepper, garlic, ginger…Meat and vegetable, the raw and the cooked, spice and sweetness, the tender and the chewy, the refreshing and the mellow are exquisitely blended together. Besides many types like duck intestine, eel and duck soup, there is no restraint of the number of diners, ranging from one to hundreds. Previously, there was a hotpot-eating event involving 10,000 people simultaneously in Nanbin Road, creating a Guinness world record. The pots include single pot, connected pot, partitioned pot and double-flavored pot and the spicy levels involve mild spicy, light spicy, numbing spicy and heavy spicy, which can vary according to the number of diners and individual tastes.

In summer, men eating the fiery hotpot without shirts on and women in their dresses are not considered inelegant here. Just imaging, a bunch of people sitting beside a giant fan, playing poker and wine games, drinking beer and eating all the delicacies from the spicy broth, what a pleasure!

Chongqing, a destination always on the itinerary, so is its hotpot!

Sketch of Chongqing

□ Written by Gao Xingming