Fashions of the 1920’s

By Dolores Monet

一部《了不起的盖茨比》把我们带回到了美国20世纪20年代——璀璨繁华，纸醉金迷，个性张扬，没有人能否认这是一个激情燃烧的年代。燃烧了青春，燃烧了爱情，燃烧了艺术的灵感，也燃烧了时尚与流行的黄金岁月。

Women’s Fashions of the 1920’s

Women’s fashions of the 1920’s are a large part of the Jazz Age1. Jazz Age: 爵士时代，指20世纪20年代，美国著名作家菲茨杰拉德的作品对爵士时代的特点进行了详细而生动的刻画和描述。identity. New technology and the end of the horrors brought about by World War I and the 1918 Flu Pandemic gave rise to a youthful exuberance personified by the Flapper.2. 伴随着第一次世界大战和1918年大流感引起的恐慌的结束以及新技术的发展，以摩登女郎为代表的洋溢着青春活力的风格形象开始悄然兴起。flapper:（尤指20世纪20年代行动与衣着不受传统束缚的）年轻女子；personify: 是……的化身，清楚体现。

Contrary to popular misconception, the short skirts and bold make up of the flapper did not rule the fashion of the day.3. misconception: 误解，错误想法；bold: 敢作敢为的，无拘无束的；rule: v. 占支配地位，起控制作用。Fashion periods are usually distinguished by the female silhouette which presented a boyish figure with flattened breasts and loose clothing for most of the decade.4. 这一时期时尚潮流主要体现在女性的服装式样上，在这十年间女性着装显得十分男性化，不着意衬托胸部曲线，且衣服样式宽松。silhouette: 轮廓，衣服式样。

The drop waist shift dresses of the 1920’s relieved women of the last vestiges of Edwardian formality.5. drop waist: 低腰的；shift dress: 宽松直筒连衣裙；relieve sb.of sth.: 将某人从……中解脱出来；vestige: 残留部分，残余；Edwardian:（服装）指英王爱德华七世时代式样的（沙漏形女装和紧身男装）；formality:（写作风格，行为方式等的）正式，正式性。Less tailoring,as well as the availability of the sewing machine meant that women could easily make fashionable clothing at home so that high fashion was no longer restricted to the elite.6. tailoring: 剪裁，成衣工艺；availability: 可用性，可得性；sewing machine: 缝纫机；elite:上层人士。

Women felt empowered when they won the right to vote(1920 in the US, 1928 for 21 year old women in Britain).7. empower: 给予（某人）权力，使自主；right to vote: 投票权，选举权。The widespread use of the automobile, radio, and increased educational opportunities encouraged young women to cut off their hair and kick up their heels.8. widespread: 普遍的，广泛的；kick up: 〈口〉提高，抬高。

The New Culture of the 1920’s

During World War I, young women worked outside the home more than they had in the past. They drove cars and disregarded9. disregard: 漠视，轻视。tradition. Gender-specific clothing began to fall by the wayside after women worked in munitions factories during the Great War.10. gender-specific: 针对不同性别的；fall by the wayside: 中途退出，半途而废；munitions: 军火，军需品。A kind of cynicism that came in the aftermath of the Great War and the devastating flu pandemic created a youth culture that glorified in fast living, dancing, and the exciting sounds of syncopated jazz, described by the writer, F. Scott Fitzgerald, as the Lost Generation.11. 一战和毁灭性的大流感之后一种愤世嫉俗的悲观主义情绪滋生，这导致了新文化现象的产生，青年人开始崇尚快节奏的生活、跳舞和爵士乐切分音令人兴奋的节奏感，作家菲茨杰拉德将这代年轻人描述为“迷惘的一代”。cynicism: 愤世嫉俗的；syncopated:切分的，切分音乐的；F. Scott Fitzgerald：弗·斯科特·菲茨杰拉德，美国著名小说家，爵士时代的代表作家，代表作包括《了不起的盖茨比》、《人间天堂》、《夜色温柔》等；Lost Generation: 迷惘的一代，第一次世界大战后美国的一个文学流派，代表人物包括海明威、福克纳、艾略特等。

The youth drank in carefree disregard of Prohibition(which outlawed the manufacture, sale, and distribution of alcohol but not its consumption) and lost respect for authority and traditional morals.12. carefree: 无忧无虑的；Prohibition: 禁酒时期（美国1920年至1933年间规定酿酒或售酒为非法）；outlaw: 使非法，禁止。Young women smoked cigarettes and danced the Charleston and Blackbottom,typified by fast, jerky movements.13. Charleston: 查尔斯登舞，20世纪20年代在生活于美国南部的黑人中流行的一种舞曲；Blackbottom: 黑人扭摆舞，1920年流行的一种舞蹈；typify: 是……的典型；jerky: 连续的，忽停忽动的。

Flappers in corporated14. incorporate: 纳入，列入。an unusual use of clothing into the wild new style. Flappers rolled stockings below the knee, and wore unhooked rubber galoshes that flapped when they walked.15. unhook: 解开……的钩子；galosh: 高级橡皮套鞋，（雪地穿的）高筒套鞋； flap: 拍打，拍动。

Fashions of the 1920’s—Hemlines16. hemline:（衣裙下摆的）底边，底缘。

Skirt hemlines began to rise in 1913 when skirts stopped just above the ankles17. ankle: 脚踝。. By 1818, hemlines had risen to just below calf length and for the next several years showed variations of a few inches one way or another.18. calf length: 及腿肚长的；variation:变化，变更；inch: 英寸，1英寸约等于2.54厘米。

In the early 1920’s, uneven hemlines gave the appearance of shortening when uneven, scalloped,and handkerchief hems became fashionable.19. uneven: 不直的，不规则的；scalloped: 镶荷叶边的，镶扇形边的；hem: 下摆，褶边。1925 saw the dramatic rise of skirt hems into the Flapper style that has come to typify women’s clothing of the Roaring Twenties, but was a relatively short lasting phenomena.20. dramatic: 明显的，显著的；Roaring Twenties: 咆哮的20年代，是指北美地区（含美国和加拿大）20世纪20年代这一时期，“爵士时代”的又一代名词。The short skirts of the Flapper was generally worn by younger women while older women wore longer skirts.

By 1929, asymmetrical21. asymmetrical: 不对称的，不匀称的。skirt hems brought hemlines back down.But fashions brief flirtation with short hemlines gave us the image of the modern woman, a style that continued (more or less)throughout the 20th century and into the 21st century.22. brief: 短暂的； flirtation: 一时的兴趣（或参与）。

Fashions of the 1920’s—Hair and Hats

Modern concepts of hygiene23. hygiene: 卫生。encouraged women toward more frequent hair washing. Emancipation24. emancipation: 解放。from traditional gender styles encouraged women to cut their long hair and free them from the complicated hair styles of Edwardian times.

The bob appeared in the US shortly before World War I but really took hold in the 1920’s, infuriating the older generation and igniting controversy about gender and appearance with the new androgynous look.25. 一战之后不久，美国就出现了女孩梳齐耳短发，到了20世纪20年代，齐耳短发已然成为一种时尚，这种流行发型惹怒了老一辈人，也引发了关于性别和中性风格的讨论。take hold: 确立，固定下来；infuriate: 使大怒，激怒；androgynous:（服饰等）为两性所用的，男女不分的。

Women with bobs needed more frequent hair cuts, and wanted permanent waves, ushering in an explosion of beauty parlors that offered dye jobs, and perms, as well as the fashionable new hair cut.26. permanent: 持久的，稳定的；usher in: 带来，引进；explosion:（规模、数量）急剧增加，骤增；beauty parlor: 美容院；perm: 电烫发。

Cloche hats were all the rage; narrow, close fitting, bell shaped hats that often featured feathers, bows, beads, or artificial flowers.27. Cloche:（紧套于头上的）钟形女帽；all the rage: 风行一时的事物；feature: 以……为特色；bow:蝴蝶结；b e a d:珠子，串珠饰品；artificial: 人造的。

Fashions of the 1920’s—Coats and Shoes

Coats were generally calf length with the wrapper style predominating.28. wrapper:（女子室内穿的）宽大长衣，浴衣；predominate: 居支配地位，占主导地位。The wrap coat was fastened with a large button or tab and buckle and featured a shawl style collar often trimmed in fur.29. 外套通常由一个大扣子或拉襻和扣形饰物一起扣住，而且以装饰着镶皮毛边的披肩样式的大领子为特征。wrap coat:外套；tab: （衣服等处的）襻（如拉襻、挂襻、搭襻等）。In addition to the familiar furs, coats and collars were sometimes trimmed in monkey fur.

Shoes were generally high heels30. high heel: 高跟鞋。just over two inches.Mary Janes and T strap styles with a medium slightly curved high heel were the dominant shoe of the day.31. Mary Janes: 玛丽珍鞋，是对绑带鞋的美式统称，尤指那些低跟、圆面、脚踝搭扣绑带式的鞋子；T strap shoes: T型带鞋；dominant: 占优势的，统治的。

Women also wore tied Oxford type shoes with a short, stack heel for day wear.32. Oxford type: 牛津鞋是从17世纪英国牛津大学开始流行的男鞋，牛津鞋的特色在于鞋子楦头以及鞋身两侧做出如雕花般的翼纹设计；stack heel: 叠层鞋跟。

Fashion Designers of the 1920’s

● Gabrielle Coco Chanel33. Gabrielle Coco Chanel: 加布里埃·可可·香奈儿，法国香奈儿品牌创始人。entered the fashion world in the 1920’s with her loose shift dresses, blouses, and evening coats in dark and natural shades. Long, belted blouses, and Russian peasant style embroidery simplified the look of women’s clothing.34. embroidery: 刺绣，绣制品，下文的embroider是其动词形式；simplify: 简化，精简。In 1926, Coco Chanel claimed to have introduced the Little Black Dress, a fashion staple that has endured for 85 years.35. claim: 宣称，声称；staple: 主要商品，主要产品。

● A new, masculine36. masculine: 有男子气的，像男人一样的。look offered loose, sailor style trousers for women to wear at home and at the beach. These ‘beach pajamas’ were an early form of a pants suit.

● Art Deco played a prominent role in the fashion trends of the 1920’s with geometric shapes based on natural lines.37. Art Deco: 装饰派艺术，诞生于20世纪20年代，重视几何块体、重复线条以及曲折线的表现形式；geometric: 几何的，几何图形的。

● The discovery of the tomb of Tutankhamen in 1922 set off an instant craze for all things Egyptian. Clothing styles and embellishments reflected designs and patterns of ancient Egypt.38. Tutankhamen: 埃及法老图坦卡蒙； instant:短暂的，立即的；craze: 时尚，（一时的）狂热；embellishment: 装饰，修饰，后文的embellish是其动词形式；reflect: 反映，表达。

● The designer Jean Patou designed romantic fashions embellished with fine lace, embroidery, and a lavish use of beading.39. Jean Patou: 让·巴度，20世纪20年代到30年代最伟大的服装设计师之一；lace: 蕾丝；lavish: 大量的，极其丰富的。Along with Coco Chanel, Patou’s garconne look created a tubular silhouette that de-emphasized the feminine figure by flattening the breasts, narrowing hips, and ignoring the waist.40. garconne:〈法〉假小子；tubular: 管形的，管状的；de-emphasize: 不重视，不强调；feminine: 女性的。In 1922, Jean Patou became the first designer to embroider his initials onto the fabric of his sportswear designs, a concept that is still popular today.41. initial: 首字母；fabric: 织物，织品；sportswear: 运动装，休闲活动时穿的衣服。