提拉米苏：竟是近代之作

Ａｎｎａ　Ｍａｒｉｅ　Ｖｏｌｐｉ

Open an old Italian cookbook, browse through the index and… surprise! No recipe for Tiramisu. My first encounter with Tiramisu was in 1985. I was in Italy at that time: A friend of mine told me about this new cake recipe she had just acquired. She was so enthusiastic about it that I felt compelled to try it immediately. The taste was unbelievably good, better than anything I'd ever had before, and since then I have been in love with this dessert.

打开一本古老的意大利菜谱，随意浏览索引和……让人很惊讶！居然没有提拉米苏的制作方法。我在1985年邂逅提拉米苏。那个时侯我在意大利：我的一个朋友将她刚得到的这种新型糕点的制作法告知于我。她满腔热情，让我感到自己被迫立即进行实践。味道美得叫人难以置信，比我吃过的任何东西都美味，从此，我便爱上了这道甜点。

Everybody knows by now that Tiramisu means "pick-me-up" in Italian, for the high energy content (eggs and sugar) and the caffeine of the strong espresso coffee. There are many different stories about the origin of Tiramisu. It is a layered cake, and therefore some people place its origin in Tuscany, where another famous layered Italian dessert is very popular. It is called "Zuppa Inglese" (English Soup). It is not English and it is not a soup. Instead, it is a simple cake of ladyfingers or sponge cake, soaked in liquor, and alternating layers of chocolate and egg custard.Layered cakes have been around for a long time. The brilliant idea in Tiramisu is not in the technique of layering, but in the components. The great invention is combining together coffee, cream, and chocolate: This is the true innovation of Tiramisu

现在大家都知道“提拉米苏”在意大利语中的意思是“兴奋剂”，因为它含有高能量物质（鸡蛋和糖）和浓缩咖啡的咖啡因。关于提拉米苏由来的故事千差万别。这是一种夹心糕点，因此，一些人认为它来自托斯卡纳，在那里，另一种意大利夹心甜点非常受人们的喜爱，叫做“Zuppa Inglese（英国汤）”。它既非来自英国亦非汤，而是一种浸泡在酒里的简单的松脆饼或松糕，并且在不同层面上轮次涂有巧克力和牛奶蛋羹。夹心糕点存在已久。提拉米苏之妙不在于糕点的分层技术，而在于它的成分。这个伟大的发明集咖啡、乳脂和巧克力于一体：这才是提拉米苏的真正创新。

The first clue is by the famous Italian gastronome Giuseppe Maffioli. In his book "Il ghiottone Veneto", (The Venetian Glutton) first published in 1968, he talks extensively about Zabaglione custard. The name of this cream originates from Zabaja, a sweet dessert popular in the Illyria region. It is the coastal area across the Adriatic Sea that was Venetian territory for a long time during the golden age of the "Repubblica Serenissima" (The Most Serene Republic) of Venice. Zabaglione was prepared in those times with sweet Cyprus wine.

线索首先来自著名的意大利美食家Giuseppe Maffioli。他在自己首版于1968年的《Il ghiottone Veneto》（威尼斯贪食者）这本书中，大篇幅地谈论意大利甜点Zabaglione。这个乳脂的名字源于扎巴亚，是一种广受伊利里亚地区人们喜爱的甜点。伊利里亚地区是亚得里亚海对岸的沿海地区，在威尼斯“圣马力诺共和国（最和谐安宁的共和国）”的鼎盛时期曾长期隶属于威尼斯。那时的Zabaglione是用赛普洛斯甜酒配制的。

"The groom's bachelor friends", says Maffioli, "at the end of the long wedding banquet, maliciously teasing, gave to him before the couple retired a big bottle of zabajon, to guarantee a successful and prolonged honeymoon." "The zabajon", Maffioli continues, "was sometimes added to whipped cream, but in this case was served very cold, almost frozen, and accompanied by the baicoli, small thin Venetian cookies invented in the 1700's by a baker in the Santa Margherita suburb of Venice". The addition of whipped cream, the serving temperature, the cookies, all these elements are close to the modern Tiramisu recipe. And even the allusion to the energetic properties of the Zabaglione seems to refer to the name Tiramisu.

“新郎的单身朋友们”，Maffioli说道，“在漫长的婚宴结束后，故意挑逗说在这对夫妻休息之前给新郎一大瓶沙巴琼以担保他们会度过一个幸福长久的蜜月。”“沙巴琼”，Maffioli继续说道，“有的时候会掺进鲜奶油，这样的话，它被端出来的时候是冰凉的，几近成冰，另外还配上baicoli，这是十八世纪由威尼斯圣玛格丽塔郊区的一个面包师发明的一种又小又薄的威尼斯饼干。”鲜奶油的添加、一定的温度，再加上这种饼干，所有这些基本原理都与现在的提拉米苏制作法相似。甚至间接提到的Zabaglione使人充满活力的特性似乎就是指提拉米苏这个名字。

Later in my research the oldest recipe I could find was in the book by Giovanni Capnist "I Dolci del Veneto" (The Desserts of Veneto). The first edition was published in 1983 and has a classic recipe for Tiramisu. "Recent recipe with infinite variations from the town of Treviso", says Capnist, "discovery of restaurants more than family tradition".

在我后来的研究中，我能找到的最早的菜谱来自Giovanni Capnist的《I Dolci del Veneto》（威尼托的甜点）这本书。该书首版于1983年，列出了提拉米苏的经典制作法。“近来从特雷维索城流传出来的制作法千姿百态”，Capnist说道，“由餐馆发明出的制作法远远超过家庭的传统制作法。”

But the final word on the origin of Tiramisu is from the book by Fernando e Tina Raris "La Marca Gastronomica" published in 1998, a book entirely dedicated to the cuisine of the town of Treviso. The authors remember what Giuseppe Maffioli wrote in an article in 1981: "Tiramisu was born recently, just 10 years ago in the town of Treviso. It was proposed for the first time in the restaurant Le Beccherie. The dessert and its name became extremely popular immediately, and this cake and the name were copied by many restaurants, first in Treviso, then all around Italy".

但提拉米苏来源的最终定论是来自Fernando e Tina Raris于1998年出版的《La Marca Gastronomica》，这本书专为特雷维索城的美食而著。作者们记载了Giuseppe Maffioli曾在1981年的一篇文章中写到：“提拉米苏是近期出现的，仅在10年前出现在特雷维索城。Le Beccherie餐馆首次提议制作提拉米苏。该甜点及名字立即广受欢迎，很多餐馆纷纷效仿制作并抄袭它的名字，首先是特雷维索城，然后是整个意大利。”

Tiramisu Recipe

提拉米苏制作秘诀

First, start by assembling the ingredients. We'll need one pound of mascarpone cheese, a cup of heavy whipping cream, 1/2 cup granulated sugar, 3 tablespoons rum (brandy also works well), ~20 lady's fingers (a light, oblong Italian cookie with powdered sugar on one side), cocoa powder, a double shot (about 2 to 3 ounces) of espresso, 1/2 cup of prepared coffee, and shavings of unsweetened dark chocolate to top (1oz. should do).

首先，准备好材料。我们需要一磅马斯卡彭芝士、一杯浓鲜奶油、半杯砂糖、三大勺朗姆酒（或白兰地），约20片小松糕（一种长形一面洒有糖粉、味道清淡的意大利饼干）、可可粉、两小杯（约2至3盎司）浓缩咖啡、半杯冲好的咖啡和无糖黑巧克力刨片（撒在蛋糕顶层）（约1盎司）。

Chill whipping cream and bowl. Mix coffee and espresso and chill.

将鲜奶油倒入碗里放入冰箱冷冻。将咖啡和浓缩咖啡混合后进行冷冻。

Whisk the whipping cream until it reaches stiff peaks. This can be accomplished in a few minutes with an electric mixer or by hand (times will vary depending on arm strength and stamina).

搅打鲜奶油直至粘稠状态。用电动打蛋器或人工搅打几分钟即可（时间长短根据臂力和耐力来决定）。

Put the cheese, sugar, and brandy into a medium bowl and mix until smooth. Add more sugar or alcohol as desired.

将芝士、糖和白兰地放入一个中碗，然后进行搅打直到液体变均匀。按需添加糖或酒。

Fold in the whipped cream to create the cheese mixture.

将鲜奶油分几步加入，制作混合芝士，加入过程中不断搅打。

Soak lady fingers in espresso for a couple seconds, rotating to coat all sides. Place lady fingers side by side on bottom of a 8x8-in. pan.

将小松糕放入浓缩咖啡浸泡2秒钟，将之翻滚使周身都沾满咖啡。然后将小松糕排放在8x8英寸的平底锅。

Put half the cheese mixture on lady fingers in pan. Smooth with a spatula or spoon.

将一半混合芝士放到锅里的小松糕上。用抹刀或勺子将之压平。

Sift cocoa powder liberally on surface of layer.

在表层洒上大量的可可粉。

Apply second layer of lady fingers and remaining cheese.

叠上第二层小松糕和剩下的芝士。

Sift cocoa powder and half of chocolate shavings.

洒上可可粉和二分之一巧克力刨片。

Cover in plastic wrap and chill.

用塑料纸包好，放入冰箱冷冻。

To serve, use the remaining chocolate shavings by sprinkling a bit onto eight plates. Cut tiramisu into eight rectangles and serve on plates (or simply spoon them out). Can be kept frozen for some time before serving.

为客人端上这道甜点时，在八个碟子上撒上些剩余的巧克力刨片。将提拉米苏切成八份正方块用盘子端给客人（或直接用勺子舀出）。在吃之前可以冷藏一段时间。

Links

1. lady's fingers

一种小松糕，又叫淑女手指饼干，是意大利的传统饼干，质感松软，吸水性强，口感界于蛋糕和曲奇饼干之间，是制作提拉米苏的主要材料，