北方春果第一枝
2023-08-02杨文革
杨文革
“红了樱桃,绿了芭蕉,流光容易把人抛”。流淌的时光,樱桃羞红了枝头,成熟的樱桃堪称“红宝石”,让久违盼望的心甜润难忘。
“绿葱葱,几颗樱桃叶底红”。没有人能在6月拒绝一颗刚下树的烟台大樱桃。成熟后的大樱桃,个头比鹌鹑蛋还要大。深红色、紫红色的外皮晶莹剔透,散发着甜美香气,在阳光下泛着无可比拟的闪亮光泽。吃上一颗,舌尖上的中国味蕾,又脆又甜,甜蜜的果汁迸发出来的味津,让人瞬间感觉如同玉液琼浆,沁人心脾。
大樱桃以红色为主,密密麻麻缀满青枝绿叶间。品种丰富的樱桃,品尝之后,味道各有“千秋”。甜脆“美早”独领风骚,“美早”本是海外的甜櫻桃引进,以“甜而不软,多肉多汁”而著称。熟透后的美早樱桃,有的能超过一元硬币的大小,艳丽的紫红色外衣,闪烁着明亮的光泽,吃上一口,丰润的汁水瞬间溢满甜蜜的味蕾,清甜回味果香,人间仙果当如是。我最喜欢吃的是“水晶”大樱桃,是透明黄色的,个头略小于“美早”。但是甜度是大樱桃中的首位。玲珑剔透的黄色外衣,似乎要撑破清凉的果皮,“呼之欲出”,皮薄肉厚,吃到嘴里,一股蜂蜜的醇香,满嘴浸润丝丝甜味。每吃一颗,甜润中带着蜜香,甜甜的滋味从舌尖浸润到心尖。晶莹剔透的大樱桃,在日出芬芳的朝阳和晚霞余晖的映衬下像珍珠玛瑙。
每年5月下旬到6月,是传统小樱桃普遍成熟的时候。小樱桃柔嫩光鲜,娇小玲珑,甜润可口。小时候每次去姥姥家,都会跟着大人去山上“看护”小樱桃和摘樱桃。山间清泉石上流,山中鸟儿清脆鸣叫,坐在樱桃树下,望着密密麻麻结满红玛瑙般的小樱桃,挑选红的熟透的樱桃吃,满嘴的甜润,直到今天还回味无穷。吃够樱桃后,再摘满篓子,夕阳余晖中欢快下山。上学盛满水的玻璃瓶子里装满了摘去果蒂的小樱桃,浸泡在澄澈的水中,浮在瓶子上部,在阳光下泛着红润般的珍珠,美得耀眼。课间休息时,同学之间互相“媲美”,然后喝着水一同吃下水中泡发的甜美果实,是童年时代美好的樱桃滋味的回忆。樱桃的甜润经历了岁月的变迁,从童年时代到如今,一直在心灵深处散发着红润甜蜜的回味,点缀着人间烟火的果香。
“樱桃好吃树难栽”。如今的樱桃树经过从外引进和不断品种改进,小樱桃品种栽种比较少了,现在大面积种植的是不同品种的大樱桃。种大樱桃要“靠天吃饭”,樱桃成熟期最怕下雨,遭受雨水的樱桃容易裂口,给果农造成不少损失。从樱桃红了,连续一个月的时间里,果农每天几乎都是凌晨3点钟左右上山摘樱桃。太阳出来后,骄阳似火,樱桃林中茂密,忍着蚊虫叮咬,拿着篓子,用手一个一个往下摘,汗水湿透衣杉,人晒黑,手裂口子。虽然辛苦,但是用勤劳的双手创造的美好幸福生活,让果农心里乐开了花。6月的烟台,到处洋溢着丰收的喜悦,大樱桃红遍了四面八方。果农采用新科技用手机网上销售,瞬间让大樱桃变成了“摇钱树”。
烟台地处北纬37度的山东半岛东部,有利的地理位置,气候温和,特别适合樱桃的生长。1871年,美国传教士把最早的大樱桃果树栽种到福山“广兴果园”的庄园里。从此大樱桃扎根烟台,茂密成林。
应季的大樱桃可以让人享受甜美,过了季节,可以将樱桃洗净去蒂,直接放在冰箱冷冻,待到盛夏时节拿出来吃,果肉冰沙,凉丝丝的甜蜜。也可以自制樱桃酱。将大樱桃洗净去核,放入锅中加糖熬到软烂,凉透后装入密封罐中,放入冰箱冷藏。几天之后拿出来,独一味的凉爽甜蜜。樱桃还可以制成樱桃酒和樱桃果脯,丰富的味蕾让人回味无穷。
大樱桃的甜美更要去樱桃园采摘品尝。“斜阳庭前风袅袅,碧海千片漏红珠”。满山遍野,沟谷山坡,一片一片,成筐成筐,随处可见。万绿丛中片片红,站在青枝绿叶缀满红玛瑙般的樱桃树下,仰望树冠,阳光澄澈透过树叶与果实的缝隙,一点点泄露。大樱桃泛着透亮,映红了笑脸。挎着小篮,分开青翠茂密的枝叶,寻找着成熟的红色果实。摘了一会儿,手就疼痛难忍,炎热难耐。在品尝大樱桃的甜美滋味时,更加体会到吃到樱桃的不易和果农的辛苦。
“一颗樱桃樊素口”。樱桃惊艳了时光,唯美的潇洒而过,把绽放的美丽,甜蜜的味蕾,和来年的希望留在了人间,期待来年与北方春果第一枝再重逢。
Big cherries, mostly red in color, densely dot the green branches and leaves. Cherries have many varieties and each is unique in taste. The sweet and crispy Tieton, locally known as “Meizao”, ripens first among all cherries. As a variety of sweet cherries introduced from overseas, “Meizao” is known for its “sweet but not soft taste, and fleshy and juicy flavor”. The ripe “Meizao” cherry can be as big as a one-yuan coin and is red purple in color with bright shining luster. When you take a bite of it, you can feel its rich sweet juice fills your taste buds immediately. With its sweet aftertaste lingering in your mouth, you cannot help thinking that such fresh fruit must be from the heaven. My favorite cherry is“Rainier”, locally known as “Shuijing”, which is transparently yellow in color and slightly smaller than “Tieton” in size. But “Shuijing” is the sweetest among all varieties of big cherries. With thin skin and thick flesh, it has a mellow aroma of honey which spreads in your whole mouth. Every time you put one into your mouth, its honey-like sweetness and fragrance will seep from the tip of your tongue to the tip of your heart. Set against the glow of sunrise and afterglow of sunset, the crystal-clear cherries look like bunches of pearls and agates.