4 Must-Eat Chicago Sandwiches四款必吃的芝加哥三明治

尼娜·弗兰德　郭晓阳/译

On a hit list of the citys must-eat dishes， youll find not one， not two， but four meals on bread. （And yes， one is a hot dog. Let the debate1 begin.） We dig into those legends and the modern twists theyve inspired. Stomach growling already？ Lets eat.

在芝加哥必吃美食榜單上，你会发现不止一两款，而是四款面包夹料美食。（是的，有一款是热狗。不服来辩。）我们深挖这四款美食的前世传奇，以及它们催生出的现代花样。肚子已经咕咕叫了吗？那就让我们一饱口福！

Italian beef

意大利牛肉三明治

Known around the city simply as a “beef，” this monster piles thinly sliced roast beef and a smattering of green peppers on crusty French bread， then generously soaks it all in jus.

这款超大三明治在芝加哥家喻户晓，简称“牛肉三明治”，是将切成薄片的烤牛肉与少量青椒夹到脆皮法棍面包中，再豪放地整个浸入肉汁。

The history

历史起源

Fans contest the sandwichs precise origins but agree it has roots in the Italian American community. The most widely accepted tale is that a street peddler named Anthony Ferreri， who delivered various combinations of bread and meat to locals， needed to feed a wedding of 150. He had an idea that could serve twice the amount of people with the same amount of food—before plopping the roast beef onto the bread， he sliced it as thinly as possible and cooked it in its juices. The sandwiches were a hit and led Ferreris son， Al， to open a beef stand in 1938.

关于这款三明治的确切起源，粉丝们众说纷纭，但一致认为它源自意大利裔美国人社区。最广为接受的说法是：有个名叫安东尼·费雷里的街头小贩，平日向当地人售卖各类面包搭配肉制品的套餐。一次，他要为一场150人出席的婚礼提供餐食。他想出了一个办法，可以用同样分量的食材，供给两倍数量的食客——他先把烤牛肉切成尽可能薄的肉片，再浸入肉汁中调味，最后才夹到面包里。这款三明治大受欢迎，费雷里的儿子阿尔因此在1938年开了一个牛肉三明治摊。

Where to eat it

好店推荐

Als was originally a front for a bookie joint called Als Bar B-Q， but the shop gained popularity and grew into a franchised chain. Dozens of other Italian beef joints now exist in the Chicago area， including Johnnies Beef in Elmwood Park， which has been around since 1961 and was Anthony Bourdains2 beef of choice.

阿尔的摊位起初是一家博彩店的门面，名叫阿尔烤肉店。人气高涨后，这个摊位逐步发展成一家特许连锁店。除此之外，芝加哥地区现在还开有数十家意大利牛肉三明治店，包括开在埃尔姆伍德帕克的约翰尼牛肉三明治店。这家店创始于1961年，是安东尼·波登的首选意大利牛肉三明治店。

Fresh take

创意新品

Plant-Based Italian Beefless Sandwich from Buona， an Italian beef chain with locations around Chicagoland， has its own tagline： “A Chicago Taste But Plant-Based！” This vegan version of the staple holds its own with sliced seitan， and comes with mild or hot giardiniera for an extra kick.

意大利牛肉三明治连锁店波纳在芝加哥大都市区拥有多家分店，由其推出的素食意大利牛肉三明治，产品理念独具一格：“芝加哥风味，全素食美味！”这款素食三明治采用素肉片，并加入微辣或辛辣的意式泡菜，额外增添重口风味。

Reuben

鲁本三明治

The Reuben couldve been invented at a New York City deli called Reubens around 1914， but another origin story—one thats closer to home—traces the sandwich to the Blackstone Hotel （now the Kimpton Cottonwood） in Omaha， Nebraska.

魯本三明治可能是1914年前后，在纽约市一家名为“鲁本”的熟食店里发明的。然而，另一种起源说法更接近真相，认为这款三明治来自内布拉斯加州奥马哈市的黑石酒店（现为金普顿卡顿伍德酒店）。

The history

历史起源

Its said that in the 1920s， a man named Reuben Kulakofsky asked for a sandwich with corned beef and sauerkraut. The hotel owners son， Bernard Schimmel， made a concoction of corned beef， Swiss cheese， sauerkraut and Thousand Island on rye—then grilled it. That sandwich became the hotels signature dish， later winning the National Sandwich Idea Contest in 1956. Reubens eventually made their way to Chicago， where other assimilated Jews opened delis and began slinging similar takes in the ‘40s and ‘50s. One of Chicagos most famous renditions？ The super-sized， signature Reuben at Mannys Cafeteria and Delicatessen， an institution thats been around since 1942.

据说，20世纪20年代，一个名叫鲁本·库拉科夫斯基的男人想吃一款用咸牛肉和德国泡菜制成的三明治。酒店老板的儿子伯纳德·席梅尔将咸牛肉、瑞士干酪、德国泡菜、千岛酱混合后，夹到黑麦面包中烤制。这款三明治成为酒店的招牌美食，后于1956年在全美三明治创意大赛中夺得桂冠。鲁本三明治最终传入芝加哥。20世纪40年代和50年代，其他归化犹太人在芝加哥开设熟食店，开始供应类似的三明治。芝加哥最负盛名的鲁本三明治是哪款呢？那就是超大尺寸招牌鲁本三明治，来自创始于1942年的曼尼自助熟食店。

Where to eat it

好店推荐

At Mannys， the classic Reuben comes with the delis award-winning corned beef， but you can opt to swap for pastrami， turkey pastrami or roasted turkey. The restaurant also offers a vegetarian-friendly Reuben made with a veggie patty.

曼尼的经典鲁本三明治采用自家荣获奖项的咸牛肉，但你也可以选择更换为香熏牛肉、香熏火鸡肉或烤火鸡肉。这家店还供应采用素肉饼的素食鲁本三明治。

Fresh take

创意新品

The curing room at Lardon is a wonder， filled with the restaurants signature meats. Chef Chris Thompson makes his Reubens with house-smoked pastrami， Midnight Moon Gouda， house sauerkraut and deli pickles on marble rye. Instead of Thousand Island， he adds a swipe of Fancy Sauce—garlic aioli with ketchup and chopped cornichons.

拉东餐厅的腌制间令人赞叹，里面全是店里的招牌肉制品。主厨克里斯·汤普森将餐厅自制熏牛肉、午夜月光高达奶酪、餐厅自制德国泡菜和从熟食店买来的腌菜，夹在大理石黑麦面包中，制成鲁本三明治。他不用千岛酱，而是刷上一层方西酱。这种酱汁由蒜蓉蛋黄酱、番茄酱和切碎的酸黄瓜制成。

Italian sub

意大利潜艇三明治

Italian subs exist all over the country， residing under different names： hoagie in Philadelphia， hero in New York， grinder across New England. Chicagos version comes without a special moniker， but just as much pizzazz.

意大利潜艇三明治可见于美国各地，只是叫法不同：在费城叫“好个儿”三明治；在纽约叫“英雄”三明治；在新英格兰叫“研磨机”三明治。芝加哥的意大利潜艇三明治没有特别的绰号，但魅力丝毫不减。

The history

历史起源

At J.P. Graziano， decades of family history are heaped onto every sandwich. Vincenzo Graziano came to Chicago in 1905 without any money. He opened his first grocery store in 1922， growing the business into the J.P. Graziano Grocery Company.

在J. P. 格拉齐亚诺的店里，数十年家族史沉积在每一个三明治上。温琴佐·格拉齐亚诺 1905年身无分文来到芝加哥。1922年，他的第一家杂货店开张，后来逐步发展成J. P. 格拉齐亚诺食品公司。

Where to eat it

好店推荐

In 2005， Grazianos great-grandson Jim Graziano established a sandwich shop inside the original West Loop grocery store， aiming to showcase the stores selection in a different way. Seventeen years later， J. P. Graziano has become a modern classic. Their take on the Italian sub features hot capicola， Genoa salami， mortadella， hard salami and provolone， plus tomato， lettuce， red wine vinegar and oregano—always stacked in the same order.

2005年，格拉齐亚诺的曾孙吉姆·格拉齐亚诺在原来的西环杂货店内开了一家三明治店，希望以不同的方式展示店内的精品美食。17年后，J. P. 格拉齐亚诺成为现代经典。他们的意大利潜艇三明治选用辣味意式冷切肉、热那亚式蒜味腊肠、摩泰台拉生熏香肠、硬质蒜味腊肠、波萝伏洛干酪，搭配番茄、生菜、红酒醋和牛至，永远以相同的顺序加料。

Fresh take

创意新品

At deli and grocer Tempesta Market， father-son duo Agostino and Tony Fiasche upgrade Italian subs. The Dante stars a cast of Italian ingredients—soppressata， piccante， porchetta cotta， hot capicola， mortadella， Genoa salami， provolone， lettuce， tomato and giardiniera—but sneaks in a spicy spreadable pork sausage known as ‘nduja. The Fiasches blend their own Tempesta ‘nduja into aioli， which adds a deeper， richer flavor.

在名叫滕佩斯塔市场的熟食杂货店，阿戈斯蒂诺·菲亚斯凯和托尼·菲亚斯凯父子搭档，改良了意大利潜艇三明治。这款但丁三明治全部选用意大利食材：意大利干香肠、皮肯特沙司、切碎的意大利脆皮烤猪肉卷、辣味意式冷切肉、摩泰台拉生熏香肠、热那亚式蒜味腊肠、波萝伏洛干酪、生菜、番茄和意式泡菜，但出其不意地加入了意大利辣肠——一种可摊开的辣味猪肉肠。菲亚斯凯父子把自制的滕佩斯塔意大利辣肠拌入蒜蓉蛋黄酱，使口味更加丰富醇厚。

Chicago-style hot dog

芝加哥风味热狗

Nine ingredients—and nine ingredients only—make up a Chicago Red Hot. They include an all-beef frank， a steamed bun and a salad bar of toppings.

芝加哥风味热狗包含且只包含九种食材，其中包括纯牛肉法兰克福熏肠、热腾腾的热狗面包及各种蔬菜顶料。

The history

历史起源

The unusual inclusion of vegetables （some fresh， some pickled） dates to the Great Depression， when street vendors attempted to make a cheap meal slightly more nutritious by adding garnishes like tomato. But the really critical detail is the one you dont see： ketchup. Enthusiasts claim it would ruin the masterpiece—a perfect balance of hot and cold， sour and salty， soft and crunchy.

加入蔬菜（有新鲜的，也有腌制的）这种不寻常的做法可以追溯至大萧条时期，当时的街头小贩想通过加入番茄等配菜，给廉价的餐食增添少许营养。不过，真正关键的细节是你见不到番茄酱。芝加哥风味热狗的忠实粉丝认为，番茄酱会毁了这款杰作——这是冷与热、酸与咸、软与脆的完美平衡。

Where to eat it

好店推荐

The winking red eyes of a macho hot dog and his blushing bride3 （named after founders Maurie and Flaurie Berman） lure passersby to Superdawg Drive-In. One of the citys most revered spots for a Chicago dog， the family-owned roadside stand has served hot dogs via carhops since 1948—though they cost a little more than 22 cents now.

热狗壮汉眨着鲜红的双眼，与他脸红的新娘（以餐厅创始人莫里·伯曼和弗洛莉·伯曼命名）一起，把过往行人招徕至超级热狗汽车餐厅。这个家族经营的路边餐厅是芝加哥最受推崇的芝加哥风味热狗名店之一，自1948年起就以汽车餐厅的形式售卖热狗，不过现在的价格会比当年的22美分贵那么一点。

Fresh take

创意新品

At The Duck Inn， chef Kevin Hickey pays tribute to the classic with the Duck Inn Dog， a beef-and-duck-fat frank thats grilled and nestled in a brioche bun. The toppings remain true to trad-ition and include house-made relish and mustard. If you go whole quack and order a side of duck fat fries with Bloody Mary ketchup， make sure the red stuff4 stays where it belongs—off the dog.

杜克小馆的主厨凯文·希基致敬经典，推出杜克小馆热狗，将牛肉鸭油法兰克福熏肠烤制后，夹到法式奶油甜面包里。顶料遵循传统，包含餐厅自制配菜和芥末酱。如果你来个全鸭套餐，配菜点了鸭油薯条搭配血腥玛丽番茄酱，务必把那红色玩意儿放在该放的地方，离热狗远点。

（譯者为“《英语世界》杯”翻译大赛获奖者）