世界各地的传统服饰

2022-08-15艾丽丝帕克黄媛

英语世界 2022年11期

文/艾丽丝·帕克译/黄媛

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From the Indian sari, to the Vietnamese conical hat, the world is full of varieties of traditional dress.While some are immersed in history and specific to the country’s culture, and others represent circumstance or status, they are almost always eye-catching.

从印度的纱丽到越南的斗笠，这世上的传统服饰种类繁多。一些服饰受到了历史的浸润，为特定国家文化所特有，还有一些是环境或地位的象征，但不变的是，它们几乎总是光彩夺目的。

2鉴于了解传统服饰有助于了解其所在的国家，我们收集了一些单品，让您一览世界各地传统服饰之风采。

The Sari, India

3Ostensibly the simplest item of clothing possible—a single length of fabric, up to nine metres long—the sari is also one of the world’s most versatile and stylish garments, which can be draped in dozens of different ways.The sari spans all of Indian society, from simple cotton versions that are woven in the street throughout the villages of India to extremely glamorous contemporary styles that grace the catwalk2catwalk供时装秀场模特儿表演的T形台。during IndiaFashionWeek.

印度纱丽

3乍一看，纱丽是最为简单的服饰——不过是一块可长达九米的布料而已——但它也是世上最百搭、最时尚的服饰之一，可以用数十种不同的方式披在身上。整个印度社会各阶层妇女都穿纱丽，既有印度各村街边织造的简单朴素的棉质纱丽，也有印度时装周T台展示的极尽华丽的现代纱丽。

Kilts, Scotland

4From Braveheart to Strictly Come Dancing, the kilt has been used to represent all things Scottish.Visit any Scottish Highland Games, and you’ll see that kilt-wearing traditions are alive and well,from the immaculately3immaculately特别整洁地；完美地。dressed competitive dancers to the pipe4pipe此处指bagpipe（风笛）。players in formal attire and, most impressively of all,the participants in the “heavy events”—for you cannot toss a caber5toss a caber指苏格兰运动会传统项目抛杆赛（caber toss）。参赛者必须身着短裙（kilt），抛掷一根被称作caber的巨大木杆。标准杆长为19英尺6英寸（约5.94米），重175磅（约79公斤）。木杆一头较粗，一头较细，参赛者抓住细端将木杆抛出，让粗端着地。比赛最终结果不仅看谁掷得远，更要看木杆落地后的垂直程度。同一木杆，穿上kilt来抛为caber，身着便服抛则只能叫log。故本句末尾不宜按照字面意思理解为“不穿kilt就没法儿好好地投掷木桩”，而应理解为“不穿上kilt，这苏格兰抛杆赛就总归是少了些什么”。properly unless wearing a kilt.

1.2.3 Transwell实验检测细胞迁移和侵袭能力收集1.2.1稳定表达miR-145SiHa细胞，无血清培养基制细胞悬液，接种于Transwell小室上层（3×103个/孔）［6］。Transwell小室风干后，加入500 μL 0.1%结晶紫染色，显微镜下拍照并计数发生迁移的细胞数量。细胞侵袭实验在Transwell小室上层加入50 μL 2.0 mg/mL基质胶Matrigel，凝固后接种SiHa细胞，之后同细胞迁移操作。

苏格兰短裙

4从电影《勇敢的心》到综艺《舞动奇迹》，苏格兰短裙一直被视为当地的象征。参观任何一场苏格兰高地运动会，您都会发现，穿着苏格兰短裙的传统完好地延续至今：无论是衣着整洁的竞技舞者，还是身着盛装的风笛手，都穿苏格兰短裙。给人印象最深刻的，非参加“重量级”抛杆赛的选手们莫属——除非穿上苏格兰短裙，否则这项运动的苏格兰特色就得大打折扣。

Tracht, Southern Germany and Austria

5Tracht—that’s lederhosen for men and dirndls6dirndl（见于德国南部一些地区和奥地利的）紧身阔摆连衣裙。for women—is the traditional dress across southern Germany and Austria.There are many variations on the basic styles depending on the area and on fashion, from the pom-pom hats of the Black Forest7德国西南部巴登-符腾堡州的山区。此地古树参天，连绵起伏，遮天蔽日，故而得名。(bollenhut) to thoroughly modern versions.

德国南部和奥地利的日耳曼民族服装

5说到德国南部和奥地利的日耳曼民族服装，男装要数皮短裤，女装则为紧腰阔摆连衣裙。根据地区和时尚的不同，基本款式亦有诸多变化，从德国黑林山的大绒球帽到现代感十足的款式，不一而足。

Balinese temple dress, Indonesia

印度尼西亚巴厘岛寺庙礼服

6任何来印度尼西亚巴厘岛寺庙观光的香客，应至少穿戴巴厘岛传统服装中的两个基本单品：一条腰带（当地人称s e l e n d a n g）和一条当地人称为k a i n的纱笼裙。巴厘岛女性为寺庙节日精心备制的全套礼服，包括可峇雅衬衫，充分展示了巴厘岛华丽的纺织工艺，如纱线扎染和蜡染技艺。

6Anyone visiting a Balinese temple in Indonesia should at least wear two basic elements of Balinese traditional dress, a sash (selendang) and a sarong-style skirt known as a kain.However, the full Balinese outfit for women, which also includes the kebaya blouse, is an elaborate ensemble worn for temple festivals that shows off Bali’s gorgeous textiles, such as ikat8ikat扎染；扎染布。扎染古称绞缬，是指在染色前，通过对布料进行捆绑、缝制、折叠、缠绕、挤压等方式让染料不能对这些地方上色。weaving and batik, to the full.

Maasai beadwork, Kenya

7One of the smaller ethnic groups in Kenya, but one of the most recognisable, the Maasai’s reputation worldwide belies its size, no small part thanks to their stunning attire: brilliant red cloth,extraordinarily intricate beadwork and—for young men—long, ochre9ochre赭红色。-dyed hair.The beadwork in particular contains much meaning, a bride’s collar being the pinnacle of Maasai craftsmanship.

肯尼亚马萨伊珠饰

7马萨伊族虽是肯尼亚较小的民族之一，却也是最为知名的民族之一。尽管人口不多，却能在世界上获得广泛声誉，这在很大程度上要归功于他们绝美的装束：鲜艳的红色布料、巧夺天工的珠饰，以及年轻男子染成赭红色的长发。珠饰的内涵尤其丰富。新娘的项圈是马萨伊工艺的巅峰之作。

Herero women, Namibia

8The traditional dress of the Herero women in Namibia is an adaptation of Victorian dress, as worn by the German colonists they fought in a bloody conflict at the start of the twentieth century, and now retained as a proud part of Herero identity.The silhouette is distinctive: a full, floor-length skirt,fitted bodice with puffed sleeve, with a magnificent horn-shaped hat, the shape of cattle horns, completing the look.

纳米比亚赫雷罗族女性服饰

8纳米比亚赫雷罗女性的传统裙装源自维多利亚时代的裙装。20世纪初，德国殖民者就穿着这种衣服——当时，赫雷罗族人为反抗殖民者而浴血奋战。如今，这种服饰作为赫雷罗身份令人自豪的遗产留存下来。其造型特色鲜明：一袭及地长裙，上衣贴合身线，袖子蓬松，再配上一顶华丽的牛角形帽子，造型便更加完美。

Sámi clothing, Lapland

9The northernmost reaches of Norway, Sweden and Finland, and the Kola peninsula of northwest Russia, are home to the Sámi, who are among the oldest peoples in Europe.

10There are variations in costume throughout the region, though the main item is the kolt (or gákti in northern Sámi), a tunic or dress.The simple bright colours of blue, red, yellow and green always feature and reindeer skin and fur is used for belts, boots and gloves.

拉普兰地区萨米族服装

9萨米族是欧洲最古老的民族之一，挪威、瑞典和芬兰的最北端和俄罗斯西北部的科拉半岛是萨米人的家园。

10整个地区的服装各有差异，但主要服装是kolt（北萨米语称之为gákti），这是一种长罩衣或连衣裙式的服装。这种服装以蓝、红、黄、绿这些简单明快的颜色为主。腰带、靴子和手套则由驯鹿的皮毛制作而成。

Gho, Bhutan

11In Bhutan, a tiny Himalayan kingdom tucked between China and India,it’s obligatory for everyone to wear the national dress.For men this means the gho, a knee-length gown tied at the waist by a belt called a keram.

12For formal occasions a silk scarf, a kabney, is added to the ensemble, the colour of which depends on the wearer’s status.For the women, traditional dress is typically an ankle-length dress called a kira, and the equivalent scarf is called a rachu.

不丹果袍

11在喜马拉雅山脚、中国和印度两国之间坐落着一个迷你王国——不丹，这里人人都必须穿着民族服装。男性身着及膝果袍，用一种叫作keram的带子束于腰间。

12在正式场合，男子还会加披一件丝质披肩，当地人称之为kabney，其颜色取决于佩戴者的身份。女性的传统服装通常是一条长及脚踝的裙子，称为kira，女性的披肩则称为rachu。

Conical hats, Vietnam

13Vietnam is home to an extraordinary wealth of clothing traditions, with the most elaborate outfits found in the north, such as red brocades of the Flower Hmong people and the decorated headdresses of the Red Dao.

越南斗笠

13越南的服饰传统极其丰富，最为精致的服饰来自北方，如花苗族人的红色织锦和红头瑶族人的头饰。

14However, the most recognisably Vietnamese item is the conical hat, or non la, an essential accessory throughout the country.The version available in Hué10越南中部城市。, non bai tho, has lines of poetry written into the brim, only visible when you hold it up to the light.

14然而，越南最知名的饰品要数斗笠了，这是越南各地必不可少的配饰。古都顺化的诗篇斗笠流传至今，举起斗笠对着阳光一照，帽檐里的诗句便显现出来。

Flamenco dresses, Andalucía, Spain

15Traje de flamenco or traje de gitana are the flamboyant dresses that finish in a cascade of ruffles (volantes), which are synonymous with the flamenco dancers of southern Spain.

16Seville’s Feria de Abril11塞维利亚一年一度的欢庆活动，又称“塞维利亚四月节”。is the best time to see them worn by local women.However, the ultimate flamenco dress is the bata de cola, the long-tailed version worn for the style of dance of the same name, an intricate and beautiful dance where the dancer controls the tail so that it swishes and flicks as if it has a life of its own.

西班牙安达卢西亚地区的弗拉门戈舞裙

15华丽的弗拉门戈舞裙（又称吉卜赛舞裙）的裙尾有着层叠的荷叶边，这种舞裙是西班牙南部弗拉门戈舞者的代名词。

16塞维利亚的四月春会是欣赏当地女性穿着弗拉门戈舞裙的最佳时机。然而，弗拉门戈舞裙的终极版本是跳长尾舞时穿的长尾舞裙。复杂而优美的舞蹈中，舞者控制着裙尾，使它轻快地嗖嗖甩动，仿佛有了自己的生命。

The ten-gallon Stetson12约翰·B.斯特森（John B.Stetson）在1865年美国内战期间设计了第一顶牛仔帽。因其标志性设计，Stetson Hat也泛指西部牛仔帽。此处ten-gallon Stetson 并非字面意义上的“能装十加仑（45.5升）水的帽子”。“十加仑”这一夸张的说法，主要来源有二：一说源自斯特森牛仔帽的广告海报，上面绘着一位牛仔，正用本款牛仔帽给马儿喂水（实际上该帽盛水量大约只有3夸脱，即3.42升）；一说是由于戴上这款牛仔帽后，人顿时变得tan galán（西班牙语，意为very gallant英姿飒爽），与tengallon颇为近似，得克萨斯州因与墨西哥（说西班牙语）毗邻，故而以讹传讹。, Texas, USA

美国得克萨斯州的斯特森牛仔帽

1 7咿哈！大大的斯特森牛仔帽、靴子……莱茵石牛仔？多亏了乡村音乐和西部音乐的明星们，南方牛仔们的工装也变得考究起来，但牛仔帽仍然是真正的美国标志。约翰·B.斯特森的事业从费城起步，1 8 6 5年，他在那里创办了自己的制帽公司，时至今日仍是牛仔世界的象征。在得克萨斯州，牛仔帽是唯一能看到的帽子款式。

17Yee ha! Enormous Stetson, boots…rhinestones131975年，美国乡村歌手格伦·坎贝尔（Glen Campbell）发行的单曲“莱茵石牛仔”（Rhinestone Cowboy）成为热门歌曲，坎贝尔也因此被称为“莱茵石牛仔”。? The southern cowboy’s work wear has been glammed up14glam sb/sth up让……漂亮起来。a bit,thanks to the stars of both kinds of music15both kinds of music 指与牛仔风格紧密相连的乡村音乐（Country Music）和西部音乐（Western Music）。二者原是两种不同类型的音乐，分别流行于美国东南部和西南部地区。20世纪三四十年代时，受好莱坞西部片的影响，从20年代就出现的牛仔歌曲（Singing Cowboys，也称西部歌曲）突然流行，经常和乡村歌曲在同一电台播出，并称为country & western music，后来西部音乐也渐渐融入乡村音乐的体系中，成为乡村音乐的一个流派。, but the hat remains a true American icon.John B.Stetson was in fact from Philadelphia16斯特森实际出生于新泽西州的奥兰治，并非宾夕法尼亚州的费城，故此处宜理解为他的事业从费城起步。, and he started his company there in 1865, but it’s always been a symbol of cowboy country, and in Texas the ten-gallon Stetson is the only style to be seen in.

Sardinian traditional dress, Italy

18Closer to North Africa than mainland Italy, Sardinia’s mixed history is evident in its traditional dress, elements of which have strong Spanish and Moorish influences.Though each village has its own style, there are common features: a veil, bonnet or shawl,long pleated skirts and richly embroidered blouses.Some of the most spectacular are from the province of Nuoro.

意大利撒丁岛传统服饰

18从距离上看，撒丁岛离意大利本土较远，而离北非更近，其复杂的历史在传统服饰上得以体现，服饰元素受到了西班牙人和摩尔人的强烈影响。虽然每个村庄的服饰都各具风格，但有一些共同的特点，如面纱、女帽、披肩、百褶长裙和华丽的绣花上衣。其中一些最令人惊叹的服饰来自努奥罗省。

The keffiyeh, shemagh or ghutrah, the Middle East

19The scarf headdress worn by men across the Middle East comes in many variations of colour, style and name.It’s known as shemagh in Jordan and the ghutrah Saudi Arabia, where it is normally either white or red and white, and held in place by the agal, a black band.

中东阿拉伯头巾

19中东各地男子佩戴的头巾颜色不一、款式多样、名称各异。这种头巾在约旦被称为shemagh，在沙特阿拉伯被称为ghutrah，颜色通常为白色或红白相间，用黑绳头箍加以固定。

Coiffe, Brittany, France

20A coiffe is an intricate lace headdress worn as part of the folk costumes of Brittany, France, though now only seen for local festivals, or pardons.The most striking is the bigouden coiffe,from the area around Pont L’Abbé, a starched lace cylinder that rises to up to an astonishing height of 30-40cm.

法国布列塔尼大区的女式头巾

20这款头巾是一种复杂的蕾丝头饰，为法国布列塔尼民间服装的组成部分，但现在只有在当地的节日或特赦日才能看到。最引人注目的是来自蓬拉贝小镇的比古丹头巾：蕾丝上过浆后，可制成30至40厘米高的圆柱，令人啧啧称奇。

Menswear, Todos Santos Cuchumatán,Guatemala

21Maya textiles are evident throughout the Guatemalan Highlands, nowhere more so than Todos Santos Cuchumatán, where local traditions are still widely observed.Mam is the first language,not Spanish, and the clothing for men in particular is brilliantly distinctive redand-white striped trousers, black woollen breeches, embroidered shirts and straw hats.■