兰溪有戏有味

唐旭昱

浙江省中西部，有座叫兰溪的江南小城。它素有“钱塘第一商埠”“民国第一县”“小上海”之称，是宋徽宗题誉的“天下江南”，也是“东方莎士比亚”李渔的故乡。

婺江、衢江在兰阴山麓汇成兰江，一路向北，入富春江，至富阳以下，连通钱塘江。耸立在兰江之滨的兰溪，文化底蕴深厚，自然风光旖旎，商埠贸易繁华。元代诗人萨都剌途经兰溪时忍不住夸赞：“越船一叶兰江上，载得金华一半秋。”

自唐咸亨五年（674）建县，儒家文化、山水文化、美食文化、中医药文化等优秀传统文化在此生生不息。如今，兰溪挖掘千年历史文脉，整合开发文化资源，以李渔文化提升城市品位和城市辨识度、美誉度，打响了“兰溪日子 有戏有味”的地方IP，为城市发展不断注入文化原动力。

兰江千载北行水  映照千古人文情

兰溪老城的东门牌楼旁，藏着一家并不显眼的旧书店。书店没有店名，门口摆放着几张小木凳，高矮不一。小木凳常常有人坐，走近细听，他们多是聊些本地文化圈的事。1970年出生的老板潘志平是一名收藏爱好者，从收藏小人书连环画开始，到专注于兰溪地方文献收藏。

有人说，要找与兰溪历史、文化有关的书籍，就得找老潘。自然而然，他的小店成了一些兰溪文化爱好者和研究者的聚集地。这群人，多来自一个民间组织——兰溪市文史与文献研究会，潘志平也是会员之一。每年，研究会要出两期《兰溪文史文献》，大家说：“兰溪的文化，有的挖，值得挖。”

国家文化先进市，传统建筑之乡，省级历史文化名城，省民间文化艺术之乡，在文化上，兰溪的美誉很多，且量大质高、特色鲜明。

曾有专家这样描述：在全国挑选十座保存完好的古城，兰溪古城算得上其中一座;在全国挑选百个保存完好的古镇，兰溪可以入围三个，分别是游埠、女埠和永昌;在全国挑选千个保存完好的古村，兰溪至少有十个，分别是诸葛八卦村、长乐村、芝堰村、渡渎村、虹霓山村、姚村等。现在，兰溪有1个国家历史文化街区（天福山社区）、8处全国重点文保单位、37处省级文保单位以及2600多处文物登录点，是全国祠堂最密集的地区之一，古书院数量居浙江首位。

兰溪亦是名人的故乡，孕育了黄初平、贯休、范浚、金履祥、柳贯、章懋、方太古、唐龙、赵志皋、胡应麟、李渔、郎静山、曹聚仁、曹谟、倪汝霖、方增先等众多历史文化名人，仅历代进士就有230余人。

作为钱塘江上重要的“诗路门户”，上至高官贵人、富家子弟、文朋诗客，下至商贾小贩、掮客挑夫、平民百姓，或逗留，或专访，纷纷踏迹而来，赏景赋诗。明代诗人唐龙称赞：“兰花十里照春水，山鸟无声香自幽。”大唐名人戴叔伦吟唱：“凉月如眉挂柳湾，越中山色镜中看。兰溪三日桃花雨，半夜鲤鱼来上滩。”“旅游博主”郁达夫忍不住写下：“红叶清溪水急流，兰江风物最宜秋。”才华横溢的李渔对家乡的热爱更是炽热：看一眼不足为奇，看两眼怦然心动，看三眼引人入胜。

据不完全统计，在兰溪留下足迹的诗人有400多位，兰溪流传着杜牧的《江上偶风》、杨万里的《兰溪解舟诗》、唐龙的《兰溪八景》、李渔的《笠翁对韵》、郁达夫的《兰溪栖真寺题壁》等诗篇名作近万首。

闲情偶寄溪山静  越中还说李渔戏

现在大家都在谈跨界，其实李渔早就是一个跨界先驱。他的头衔有很多，诗人、小说家、剧作家、戏剧理论家、出版家、美食家、园林艺术家、社会活动家……有人笑言，李渔若是要给自己印名片，那名片必定得做成手风琴状。

李渔路、李渔戏剧、李渔茶、李渔家酿……穿越400余年，李渔俨然成了休闲兰溪响当当的城市代言人。在兰溪和金华市区（兰溪隶属金华），我们能在很多地方“遇见”李渔，剧院、博物馆、公园里、马路上、饭店里……“闲情偶寄”正是当下之慕求，李渔无处不在。

一边喝茶吃点心，一边看戏听曲，古时看戏的场景，在兰溪永昌街道夏李村重现。这是李渔的故乡，“李渔家班”重建的消息已不胫而走。“在村里剧场排练过好几次呢，听着有意思。”夏李村的村民们津津乐道。

李渔家班曾红极一时，他的家庭戏班出关入关各地巡演，名满大江南北。蒲松龄曾在看完李渔家班的演出后写了一首题为《孙树百先生寿日观梨园歌舞》七言诗，诗云：“帘幕深开灯辉煌，氍毹暝铺昼锦堂……藕粉摇曳锦绣裳，黄鹅跌舞带柔长……轻裾小袖奉霞觞，愿君遐龄齐山冈。”

此诗不仅形象生动地描述了李渔家班的精彩演出，而且还写出了戏班行头道具之齐整和舞台灯光布景之华丽，说明此时的李渔家班确实已非同一般。

行万里路，交八方友。卖文谋生的李渔，一不小心成了友遍天下的社交達人。李渔交游见于记载且有姓名的就有800余人。他的朋友圈十分广泛，如超级大V曹寅、蒲松龄、吴伟业、钱谦益都是他的朋友，“海内八大家”“燕台七子”“西泠十子”中的大多数人与他都有交情。他也很接地气，三教九流、贩夫走卒都能成为他的知己。

有着“东方莎士比亚”美誉的李渔，是兰溪特有的文化符号。

金华各县市性格不同，李渔是兰溪人性格的代言人：做事不徐不疾，克制、中庸、有教养，能把生活过得精致有味。难怪李渔知音不断，现代为甚。他早就告诉人们，追求名利但不能狂热，要张弛有度，懂得生活的本真。

走进夏李村，戏剧小镇的打造已颇具规模：实景演绎笠翁对韵、打造斗戏非遗项目、开发戏剧文创产品、展示十种曲经典剧目，村中李渔故居、李氏宗祠、李渔坝等让人流连。村口那座过路凉亭“且停亭”，堪称全国名亭，那副楹联“名乎利乎道路奔波休碌碌，来者往者溪山清静且停停”，就是李渔对夏李、对生活最好的注脚。

李渔是个宝藏，他喜欢庭园、美人、美食、花卉、戏曲歌舞……一切俗人喜欢的，他都喜欢，而且喜欢得深入、高级。

近年来，兰溪以“李渔文化”为起点，组建李渔研究会，深入研究李渔思想、挖掘李渔文化资源;举办“重返芥子园”系列活动，邀请国内外艺术大咖齐聚兰溪，共同交流传承传统文化;通过与中戏协合作承办李渔戏剧文化节，启动“跟着婺剧游兰溪”等活动，有效提炼丰富李渔文化内涵，推动婺剧等传统文化创造性传承。

闲雅从容烟火气  今朝笔落促文旅

生活的本真不止诗和远方，还有当下一砖一瓦、一碟一菜的烟火气息， 这也是现代人在快节奏都市生活中对休闲、舒适生活的追求。兰溪日子，在不徐不疾的节奏中找到了幸福的“密钥”，就像李渔的《闲情偶寄》所讲述的生活之道，在闲雅中追求品质，在智慧中追求进步，在生活中追求情调。

“侬嗯干切当些（你早饭吃什么）？”兰溪人的问候，总离不开吃。

现在，到游埠喝早茶，是许多人热衷的事。

枕水而眠的游埠镇，有着悠久历史的江南第一早茶街依然保持着它原本的模样。老茶客们点一杯茶，聊着家长里短，隔壁还有几个说着吴侬软语的姑娘，她们从360公里外的上海赶来。或许很多人都沒想到，老一辈的生活习惯，竟成了古镇旅游的特色。

近年来，兰溪围绕深厚的历史文化底蕴，精品化开展文艺创作，品牌化提升节会能级、实体化打造文旅项目，全力推进优秀传统文化的活化利用。

位于兰溪市区兰棉1957文创园的一面墙，它成为了众多游客打卡拍照的网红地。作为一个一直以来着力发展工业的城市，兰溪现在对工业遗存进行了现代化改造，并产生“蝶变”效应。比如，兰溪老兰棉的厂区经过改造，摇身一变成为兰棉1957文创园，是兰溪首个“城市记忆+工业遗存”主题的文创街区，很多年轻人都喜欢去那里。兰溪作为老工业基地，保存了许多上世纪八九十年代的城市面貌，吸引了不少剧组前来取景，如《银河补习班》《亲爱的，你在哪里》《中国起跑线》《乔家的儿女》等。

兰溪日子，有戏有味。兰溪是一座有味道的城市，如果说文化、名人、古建、古镇等是其中的几味，那么第一层味道来自兰溪的美食。自古以来，来自五湖四海的商贾在此集散交易，不同的饮食文化在此交融、发展，加上兰溪人对味道的包容，使得兰溪在吸纳来自五湖四海的风味后，逐渐发展出独特的烹制手法。兰溪，有牛肉面、鸡子馃、咸汤圆等美食300多种，曾荣获全省首家“浙江美食名城”“中国美食文化名城”等称号。

今年6月，兰溪市美食发展中心揭牌成立，这是目前浙江省为推广地方美食设立的最高规格单位。而后，兰溪美食十大工程、兰溪牛肉面团体标准及配套政策、兰溪美食样板店示范标准等一系列举措及政策发布，将以特色美食餐饮打开富民增收的新路子。

日升月落，人来人往，兰溪人经历过帆樯林立的往昔，又回归于一蔬一食的质朴。兰溪的过往，如空谷幽兰，不掩芳华;兰溪的未来，如江河奔涌，远及四方。

Lanxi： Home to “Shakespeare of the East”

By  Tang  Xuyu

Located in the middle-western part of Zhejiang province， there is a small city called Lanxi. Honored by Emperor Huizong of the Song dynasty （860-1279） as “Tianxia Jiangnan” or Jiangnan （south of the Yangtze River） under the Heaven， it is known as “the first commercial port of Qiantang”， “the first county of the Republic of China” and “small Shanghai”. It is also the hometown of Li Yu （1611-1680）， the “Shakespeare of the East”.

Lanxi， which towers on the shore of Lanjiang River and enjoys a beautiful natural landscape， is a place of profound culture and thriving trade.

Since its establishment in the year 674，the city has witnessed an everlasting culture boom： Confucianism， landscape， food， Chinese medicine ... Nowadays， by tapping into the thousand-year history and rich cultural resources， Lanxi is enhancing its image， recognition and reputation centering on the culture of Li Yu and developing in a culturally motivated pattern.

In the old town of Lanxi， next to the decorated archway beside the East Gate is an easily neglected， nameless old bookstore. Several small wooden stools of different heights are placed at the entrance， invariably occupied. The owner， Pan Zhiping， was born in 1970. He is also a collector with a collection ranging from little comic books to Lanxis local literature.

It is said that if you want to find books related to local history and culture， then old Pan is your man. Naturally， his small store has become a gathering place for culture enthusiasts and researchers， who are mostly members from a private organization called Lanxi Literature and History Research Association， including Pan himself. Every year， the association publishes two issues of Lanxi Literature and History. No wonder people say that “Lanxis culture is worth digging”.

If you name the top ten well-preserved ancient cities in China， according to expert opinion， Lanxi can be counted as one; if you choose the top 100 well-preserved ancient towns， three in Lanxi can be shortlisted; if you choose the top 1，000 well-preserved ancient villages， Lanxi has at least ten of them. Now， Lanxi has one National Historical and Cultural District （Tianfu Mountain Community）， eight Major Historical and Cultural Sites Protected at the National Level， 37 Major Historical and Cultural Sites Protected at the Provincial Level and more than 2，600 registration points for cultural relics. It is one of the areas where ancestral halls are distributed most densely nationwide， and has the largest number of ancient academies in Zhejiang.

Lanxi is also home to famous people in history and culture. According to some statistics， there are more than 400 poets who have visited Lanxi and generously praised the beautiful place with their poems.

Nowadays， everyone is talking about crossover — in fact， Li Yu has long been a crossover pioneer， for he held many “titles”： poet， novelist， playwright， theater theorist， publisher， gourmet， garden artist， social activist and so on. Today， over 400 years after his living age， Li Yu has clearly become the icon of Lanxi. Li Yu Road， Li Yu Drama， Li Yu Tea， Li Yu Home Brew ... traces of him are simply everywhere. Under his influence， the Lanxi folks are easy-going and laid-back， and they love enjoying their days in a leisure way， drinking tea and eating snacks while watching a play.

In recent years， Lanxi has taken “Li Yu culture” as the starting point， setting up Li Yu research associations， studying Li Yus thoughts and exploring relevant cultural resources in depth. A series of activities themed “Return to the Mustard Seed Garden” have been held， where domestic and foreign artists are invited to gather in Lanxi and exchange thoughts on traditional culture. Lanxi has also co-hosted Li Yu Drama Festival with the Chinese Theater Association， and launched activities including “Touring Lanxi with Wuju opera”， all of which have effectively enriched Li Yu culture， and promoted the creative inheritance of traditional culture such as Wuju opera.

Compared with the fast-paced urban life， the days in Lanxi are in slow motion， just like the way described by Li Yus Xianqing Ouji （Casual Expressions）， leisurely and elegantly pursuing a wise， exquisite life of quality.

Today， going to Yubu town for morning tea is a new passion for many people. The well-preserved old street even attracts the fashionable Shanghai girls to come here and have a nice cup of morning tea， just as the old generations did. Recently， Lanxi has made great effort to revitalize its traditional culture by focusing on its profound historical and cultural heritage， encouraging first-rate literary creation， and creating culture tourism projects.

As a city that has been focusing on industrial development， Lanxi is now modernizing its industrial relics. For example， an old cotton factory in Lanxi has been transformed into Lanxi Cotton 1957 Cultural and Creative Park， which is the first cultural and creative neighborhood of Lanxi with the theme of “urban memories and industrial relics”， loved and frequented by many young people.

The days in Lanxi are also full of flavors. Since ancient times， merchants from all over the world have gathered and traded here， and different food cultures have been thus developed. In Lanxi， you can find more than 300 kinds of snacks， such as beef noodles， egg-stuffed pastry and salty glutinous rice balls. It has won the title of “Zhejiangs Famous City of Food” and “Chinas Famous City of Food”， the first-ever in Zhejiang.

In June 2021， the Lanxi Food Development Center was inaugurated， which is an agency of the highest order set up to promote local cuisine in Zhejiang. Later， a series of initiatives and policies were released， such as the top ten projects of Lanxi cuisine， the group standard and supporting policies of Lanxi beef noodles， the demonstration standards of Lanxi model restaurants， etc.， which will become a new way to increase peoples income and improve their well-being as a whole.