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凉拌鲜海蜇

2021-08-19孙为刚

走向世界 2021年30期
关键词:海蜇水母盛夏

孙为刚

Fresh Jelly Fish Salad

美食与地域、与时令密切相关。一些看似简单不过的食材,也无须高超的厨艺,便能炮制出一款令人大快朵颐的美食。盛夏时节的凉拌鲜海蜇,就是一例。

海蜇,又称“水母”,一种东西,两种叫法。作为食材,人们习惯称之为“海蜇”;作为海洋生物,科学家们更愿意称之为“水母”。作为无脊椎软体动物,水母是一个古老的物种,可追溯到6.5亿年前,比恐龙还早。水母是一个庞大的家族,全世界大约有200种,直径从茶杯盖(约10厘米)到锅盖(约1米)不等。不管体形硕大还是身材小巧,水母在水中的游姿优美、曼妙,堪称花样游泳冠军。

海蜇是烟台人最熟悉的海产品之一。海蜇全身分上下两部分,上部如伞,半球状,加工后称海蜇皮。下部为口腕部,加工后称海蜇头。海蜇的營养十分丰富,含丰富的蛋白质、碳水化合物和钙、碘及多种维生素。

盛夏时节,是捕捞海蜇的大好季节。据渔家讲,海蜇这种东西有些诡异,有时多得捕捞不迭,有时几无踪影。捕捞上来的海蜇,大量的就地加工成海蜇皮或海蜇头,以备日后销售,小量的进入市场、供人们鲜食。一碗凉拌鲜海蜇,也许是只有海边人才有的口福。

从市场上买回几近透明的鲜海蜇,切成丝条或块状,全凭个人喜好,在水中反复冲洗、滤水后备用。某次,在一家餐馆,厨师告知,切好后的鲜海蜇也可入开水中焯烫,再经凉水冲洗,这样处理过的鲜海蜇体积有些缩小,但口感更丰富。鲜海蜇滤水后,即可进入凉拌过程。老醋、蒜泥、麻汁、香菜段是必不可少的,至于再配以黄瓜丝还是莴笋丝、青椒丝、红椒丝,随人所好,各随其便。搅拌均匀后,盛入碗中,这时,有条件的还可在碗里再撒上炒熟的芝麻或花生碎,一碗酸、辣、鲜、咸,清脆可口、香味四溢的凉拌鲜海蜇即可开怀享用。

说实话,凉拌鲜海蜇这道菜,几乎用不上筷子,最多用到勺子,有时干脆直接嘴对着碗——喝。因此,烟台人便有了哈(喝)海蜇之说。夏日炎炎,热浪滚滚,稀里呼噜,餐桌上一碗乃至几碗凉拌鲜海蜇下肚,暑气消失大半,凉意油然而生,那感觉,一个字: “爽!”这口福,只有海边人才能独有。

当下,鲜海蜇上市,好这一口的食客别错过了季节。

Summer is a good season to fish thejelly fish. According to fishermen, itis something weird in that sometimesthere is too much of it for you to fishand sometimes it almost disappears. Thefished jelly fish is processed into jelly fishskin and jelly fish heads locally in largequantities for later sales while a smallproportion of it enters the market forpeople to have fresh. A bowl of fresh jellyfish salad is something that probably onlythose live by the sea can have the luck totaste.

You can buy the fresh jelly fish that isalmost transparent in the market and cutit in shreds or cubes as you like, wash itrepeatedly in water and drain the waterfor later use. Once a chef in a restaurantis told that shredded fresh jelly fish canalso be scaled in boiled water and washedby cold water. Processed in this way,fresh jelly fish shrinks a little but tastesmore delectable. After drainage, freshjelly fish can be made into a salad. Maturevinegar, mashed garlic, sesame sauce andcoriander sections are requisite. As forwhether it will be mixed with shreddedcucumber, green pepper or red pepper, itdepends on what you like and have.

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