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“龙腾方岩”震撼上演

2020-12-08徐洪

文化交流 2020年11期
关键词:永康庙会茶树

徐洪

开殿门祭叉,沉寂半个多世纪后重新恢复

山峦叠翠,秋意正浓。踏入位于浙江永康的方岩景区,一下子被成片的柿林和树上挂满的红红的柿子所吸引。导游告诉我,这就是永康方岩秋天的一大景色。“永康永康,永保安康。柿林柿子,事事吉祥。”每年农历八月初至九月重阳节前后,方岩庙会都会如期举行,其中八月十三前后和九月重阳前后为两个高潮,共历时50余天,参与人数达20余万。

在我的记忆中,方岩庙会已传承千年,长盛不衰,生生不息。如今,方岩庙会不仅是永康民间的最盛大节日,而且毗邻金华及浙南的各地民众也争相参与,形成了以永康为中心,覆盖浙南、浙东及上海、苏州、福建等地的民俗活动,其规模之大、地域之广、持续时间之长、人数之多为各地庙会所少见,堪称江南庙会之最。缘何?方岩此行解开了我心中的谜底。

千秧八陌,勿如手艺伴身

永康地处浙江省中部,古称丽州,有春秋铸剑、汉造弩机、唐铸铜铳的传承,享有“府府县县不离康、离康不是好地方”的美誉。相传吴大帝孙权的母亲吴太夫人因病四处求医,未见效果。而后得知乌伤县上浦乡有座神庙,吴太夫人便偕其妹来上浦乡,在名为清泉的庙里进香,祈祷永保安康。乡民得知太夫人驾临,特地献上清泉之水。太夫人饮后,顿时神清气爽,不久病体痊愈。太夫人感念至深,临终时嘱咐儿子孙权要为她还愿。

几十年后,孙权登基称帝,遵照母亲遗嘱,划出乌伤县南界之上浦乡单独置县,按“永保安康”之意命名“永康”。其间,曾一度擢升为丽州,但4年之后即恢复,后一直沿用至今。

方岩山是镶嵌在永康境内的一颗耀眼明珠,为国家级丹霞地貌风景名胜区。明嘉靖《永康县志》记载:“方岩山,县东五十里,高二百余丈,周六里许。其山四面如削,驾飞桥石梯而登,将至绝顶,在两岩相峙为关。一夫守之,万夫莫开……”

郁达夫曾赴方岩游览,在他的《方岩纪静》中有这样一段关于方岩山的感悟:“从前看中国画里的奇岩绝壁,皴法皱叠,蒼劲雄伟到不可思议的地步,现在到了方岩,才知道南宗北派的画山点石,都还有未到之处。”由此可见,方岩山的雄伟壮观可不一般。

永康境内多山,属低山丘陵地貌,赤彤丹霞的仙霞岭和苍翠挺拔的括苍山余脉在这里交错汇合,使永康多奇峰幽谷,碧涧清流。因为山多田少水更少,“七山一水二分田”的丘陵地貌,使得百姓生活比较困苦,于是,“千秧八陌,勿如手艺伴身”成为世世代代永康人的祖训。

非遗项目“中华第一秤”第五代传人朱海浪说,从他记事时起,他就看到村里大部分村民都在从事秤的制作,制秤业成为村里家家户户的主要收入,以至于永康后来成为中国的制秤中心,全国90%的秤出自永康。

宋代以来,受永康状元陈亮(1143~1194年)“农商并重”“通商惠工”事功哲学的影响,永康形成了“以工补农”的独特社会经济模式。清道光《永康县志》载:“土石竹木,金银铜铁锡,皆有匠,然朴拙不能为精巧……多鬻技于他乡。”

据传,明清以来,永康每年都有数以万计的五金工匠肩挑手扛,走南闯北,游走他乡,足迹遍及浙江各地及毗邻省份。所以,永康盛行“翻九楼”“忏兰盆”“水陆道场”等风俗,更盛行朝拜“胡公”,以祈求风调雨顺,五谷丰登,消灾纳福,家道安康。可以说,是永康人的勤劳和坚守,让“千秧八陌,勿如手艺伴身”的祖训传承赓续,也由此成就了永康“五金之乡”的美誉。

十岁上方岩,励志敬胡公

胡公,姓胡名则,字子正,宋乾德元年(963年)农历八月十三日生于方岩胡库村。据考证,胡则之父胡承师家居上胡。北宋政治家、文学家范仲淹《兵部侍郎致仕胡公墓志铭》记载,胡则祖宗三代在乡闾间以积善称道。胡则自少勤苦潜学,精通五经六艺。宋太宗端拱二年(989年)登进士,开八婺科第之先河。就是说,胡则是当时金华地区第一个考取进士的人。

胡则入仕后,一生浮沉宦海47年,后人称其“逮事三朝,十握州符,六持使节,选曹计省,历践要途。”范仲淹撰写的墓志铭中,对胡则予以高度赞颂:“进以功,退以寿,义可书,石不朽,百年之为兮千载后。”

永康当地的老百姓对胡则世代崇拜,绵延不息。“十岁上方岩,励志敬胡公”之说在浙江金华一带家喻户晓,家有读书娃,都会以敬“胡公”为荣。浙江师范大学二级教授陈华文至今还清晰地记得他小时候父母亲对他讲的“胡公”故事。到现在,凡入学考试等重要节点,许多家长都会登方岩,拜胡公,祈福孩子能够如意中榜。除此之外,“为官一任,造福一方”在永康也是口口相传,清风荡漾。

“为官一任,造福一方”这八个字是毛泽东对胡公的赞评。1959年8月,毛泽东视察浙江金华时曾对当时的永康县委书记说:“永康有个方岩,方岩有个胡公大帝。胡公大帝不是神,而是人。他姓胡名则,是北宋的一个清官,为人民做了很多好事,人民纪念他,所以香火长盛不衰。我们共产党的干部也应该多做好事,为官一任,造福一方嘛!”

直到今天,永康一带百姓一直把胡则视为惠泽一方、清正廉明,关心百姓、为民造福的神灵,敬仰他、崇拜他、奉祀他,历经千年,香火不衰。

史料记载,胡公与杭州西湖龙井茶还有着不解之缘。景佑元年(公元1034年)四月,年逾七旬的胡则获准致仕,朝廷按例加封兵部侍郎的荣衔,嘱其定居杭州。据说,胡则从小喜欢喝茶。定居杭州后他让家人带了一些茶籽在龙井试种,但没有成功。后来有家乡人给他出主意:用野茶树嫁接移植。胡则把狮峰山上的野茶树移植到茶圃,不久就成活。但只长个儿不长叶,胡则一气之下,挥刀砍了十八棵茶树,没想到过了大半年,被砍的茶树不仅没死,还长出子新叶,变成了十八个灌木丛,一看就是自己种的茶树。临终前,他反复叮咛子孙,一定要把自己安葬在茶圃里,永远与十八棵茶树做伴。这十八棵茶树一茬接着一茬,循环往复,生生不息。乾隆第三次下江南游龙井时,把这十八棵茶树封为“御茶”。如今,这十八棵茶树不仅成为杭州著名的景点和品牌,还成为杭州与永康情缘相惜的见证。

为弘扬“为官一任、造福一方”的胡公精神,当下,永康正在建设赫灵方岩小镇,保护提升胡公故里形象;成立胡公文化研究会、胡公书院,开展“寻访胡公路、助力新腾飞”“十岁上方岩、励志敬胡公”“胡公故事大讲坛”等系列活动;出版长篇历史小说《胡公传奇》、专题影集《胡公足迹》,创作婺剧《清正胡公》《胡公谣》《胡公之歌》等。

节日到,九狮跳

胡则“为官一任,造福一方”,百姓感恩,敬之若神,形成了绚丽多姿的胡公文化。永康方岩神奇秀美的自然风光和悠久深厚的人文底蕴,以及独具地域特色的民情风俗,造就了千年传承、长盛不衰的方岩庙会,创造了源自生活、丰彩多姿的民间文化。

节日到,九狮跳。在永康,被称为“东方一绝”的九狮图是由一个高4米、长6.5米的狮笼和9只大小不等的狮子以及38条20米长的纤绳组成。十几个人牵动、操纵着纤绳,令九狮腾挪跳跃,妙趣横生。十八蝴蝶舞则由18个年轻女子扮成蝴蝶,与花神一起翩翩起舞。村民们脚蹬黄灯笼裤,腰扎白单包,精神飒爽,表演拳、棍、钗、叠罗汉等艺术……这些源自生活又丰富多彩的文艺形式,赋予了方岩庙会浓郁的民族风格和强烈的地域特色,其历史、文化、艺术和审美价值伴随着时代的脚步,丰盈着群众的文化生活。

方岩庙会俗称胡公庙会,是人们为祭祀胡公大帝而举办的大型庙会民俗。它初始于宋,成熟于明,鼎盛于清末至民国时期,规模盛大,影响深远,千年传承,长盛不衰,至今发展成为了荟萃永康民间表演艺术、交流民间武术、展示民间手工技艺,融商贸旅游为一体的民间传统盛会。

方岩庙会期间,各地的罗汉班和歌舞队,不仅上方岩朝拜,而且要在山下的村庄巡游表演,称“游案”,还要在方岩返回的沿途巡演,称“打回头案”。巡游队伍前有仪仗,中有胡公神龛,后有罗汉班和歌舞队跟随,鼓乐齐鸣,浩浩荡荡。游案队伍每到一地,都会受到热情欢迎,引来村民争相观看。

史料记载,明清以来,永康各地有“胡公会”72个,各村落都各自组织罗汉班,上方岩朝拜胡公,或在當地村庄巡游,寓意接受胡公检阅,保佑平安。其时民众参与热情高涨,庙会趋于成熟,并形成了统一的程式。每个“胡公会”都要进行开殿门、祭叉、游案、换香火、归殿门等程序,相沿成习。

明嘉靖年间,东南沿海一带倭患严重。1559年,戚继光在金华一带以杀贼保民为号召,招募抗倭新军,去台州抗击倭寇,九战九捷,倭患告平,继而组织民团,习武自卫。于是永康一带农村逐渐形成习武风俗,将这种风俗与朝拜胡公活动有机地结合起来。

文脉是一座城市的根与魂。如今,随着方岩镇先盆村、东城街道高镇村等37个重点歌舞节目和西溪镇柏岩村、舟山镇山坞村等8个罗汉班重点传承村(基地)的建立,十字莲花、三十六行、十八狐狸、十八罗汉、大面姑娘等近30个重点庙会表演形式、演出质量得到了提升,精心打磨的十八蝴蝶、九狮图、拱瑞手狮、滚叉舞等一批非遗表演节目,除了在方岩庙会期间精彩展现外,还登上了上海世博会等国家级、省市级重大文化活动的舞台。九狮图还通过2019年湖南卫视《四海同春》节目享誉海内外。

方岩庙会已成为影响浙江省乃至周边省市的民俗节庆品牌。而永康市更是通过资源普查、基地建设、资金投入、改革创新等,大力推动方岩庙会的抢救、保护、传承与发展。2010年5月,方岩风景区(方岩庙会)入选浙江省非物质文化遗产旅游景点;2011年,方岩庙会被列入第三批国家级非遗代表性项目名录;2019年7月,方岩被浙江省文化和旅游厅公布为“浙江省民间文化艺术之乡”。

(感谢永康市文化广电旅游和体育局提供图片)

Fangyan: Temple Fair Celebrates Local Culture and History

By Xu Hong

Yongkang in central Zhejiang is famed for many things. Its history: It was called Yongkang 1,700 years ago. The name was given by Sun Quan, the king of the Wu Kingdom in the Three Kingdoms (220-280) period in Chinese history. Its tourism attraction: Fangyan, a 384-meter-tall fortress-like rocky mountain 25 kilometers out of the county capital, features grand rock formations. The Fangyan Scenic Zone covers an area of 92 square kilometers and includes many picturesque attractions. Its folk religion: Hu the Great, a local deity is worshiped widely by residents of Yongkang. Its metalwork industry: the county produced metalworkers during the Three Kingdoms period. In particular, local craftsmen made crossbows. In the Ming (1368-1644) and the Qing (1644-1911), local farmers traveled and worked as metalworkers making and selling household and farming hardware. Today, Yongkang is a world-class powerhouse of metalwork and hardware production.

Hu was a native of Yongkang. He came out as  in 989DC and worked as a government official for 40 plus years in the reigns of three emperors of the Northern Song. He was a capable and honest official. After his death, people of Yongkang honored him by building memorial temples across the county. There is a temple in Dragon Well Village in Hangzhou where he was buried. The local culture turned the native son and government official into a deity. Hu the Great is worshipped in Yongkang.

A grand temple fair is held regularly in Fangyan, Yongkang in honor of Hu the Great.

It starts two days before the Moon Festival which falls on the 15th day of the eighth month on lunar calendar and goes on to the Double Ninth Festival which falls on the ninth day of the ninth month of the lunar calendar.

The temple fair as a tradition in Yongkang started in the Song Dynasty (960-1279) and became regular in the Ming Dynasty (1368-1644). The memorial event became highly popular in the Qing (1644-1911) and the Republic of China (1911-1949). The 1,000-year long commemorative event is now a grassroots gala where folk artists, kungfu masters and craftsmen show off their artistries and stunts.

The temple fair is held in the Fangyan mountain area. Many acrobat teams and song & dance teams from villages in Yongkang visit the mountain to pay homage to the man-turned deity. On their way back home, they parade through villages. A parade is spectacular: it is led by a phalanx of honor guard, a shrine of Hu the Great in the middle, followed up by acrobat teams and song & dance teams.

According to historical accounts, Yong Kang held 72 memorial events a year in commemoration of Hu the Great during the centuries of the Ming and the Qing. Gradually, the memorial event became standardized. The celebration follows a step-by-step procedure, including a ceremony to get the shrine out of a temple and get it back to the temple after a grand parade.

The Kungfu tradition started in Yongkang in the Ming Dynasty. In 1559, General Qi Jiguang called local young men to join the military to fight invading Japanese pirates. Local farmers joined the military and won all the nine battles under the leadership of General Qi. Qis army eventually wiped out the pirates. After the war, these soldiers retired and they organized themselves into village militia. The kungfu tradition formed and comes down in history. Thats how a kungfu show is an integral part of a memorial event of Hu the Great.

Nowadays, eight villages in Yongkang receive local governments supportive policies that keep their traditional acrobat troupes in business. About 30 shows by village folk artists add up to a repertoire that is performed regularly at temple fairs across the county. Some shows are now on the list of intangible cultural heritage. The folk artists of Yongkang have staged their best shows on various important occasions: 2020 Shanghai World Expo and some events at the provincial and municipal levels. In 2019, the “Nine Lions Dance” performed folk artists of Yongkang was screened worldwide on Hunan Satellite Television. The Fangyan Tempe Fair has been a key attraction in Zhejiang and neighboring provinces for a long time.

In May 2010, the Fangyan Scenic Zone (Fangyan Temple Fair) was inscribed as a tourism attraction on the list of intangible cultural heritage of Zhejiang Province. In 2011, the temple fair was inscribed on the national list of intangible cultural heritage. In July 2019, Fangyan was honored for its folk culture and art by the provincial government.

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