The characteristics of folk women

Abstract：As a dynasty ruled by ethnic minorities and the last monarchy Dynasty in Chinese history，the development of marriage suits in Qing Dynasty also reflects the characteristics of the times and the particularity of different periods of marriage suits. This paper will analyze the characteristics of the folk women's wedding dress in Qing Dynasty from the time perspective，which is divided into three stages：early，middle and late Qing Dynasty.

Key words：the Qing dynasty，folk women，Wedding dress

1 .The characteristics of women's wedding dress in the early Qing Dynasty

In the early Qing Dynasty，in order to consolidate its imperial power and as a symbol of conquering the Central Plains，the Manchu government carried out the policy of "shaving and changing clothes" in its ruling area. However，due to the long-term resistance of the Han people and the basic stability of the Manchu regime，the policy of "shaving and changing clothes" lost the significance of stabilizing the political power and strengthening the rule. Therefore，the Qing government accepted what people call "from Ming Dynasty to Qing Dynasty" Jin Zhijun，a loyal minister of the Yuan Dynasty，suggested "ten obedience and ten non obedience". Two of them are："men follow women，and officials follow marriage". That is to say，the wedding dress of the Han bride can follow the Han tradition of the Ming Dynasty without wearing Manchu wedding dress，and the characteristics of the folk bride marriage follow the Ming Dynasty.

In the early Qing Dynasty，the appearance of women's wedding dress was mainly upper coat and lower skirt or upper coat and lower pants，which were not connected. It can be seen from the wedding folk paintings of Qing Dynasty that the shape of the shirt and jacket is loose and large，with a long length even reaching the knee or ankle. The shape is conservative，and the skin should not be exposed as much as possible. The color is mainly red，equipped with stone green，which gives people a bright and festive feeling. On the fabric，the common folk women's wedding clothes are selected by the noble women of cotton and hemp with lower price when they marry With silk，satin and other high-grade fabrics，but due to the scarcity of its daily use is still cotton，hemp based. There are many kinds of skirts，such as pleated skirt，Fengwei skirt，Yuehua skirt，Ma Mian skirt and pleated dry skirt. Women wear red wedding dress. Red wedding dress is a general designation of dresses used in marriage. The styles mainly include single piece long skirt and dry-type long skirt.

2. The characteristics of folk women's wedding dress in the middle of Qing Dynasty

In the middle of the Qing Dynasty，due to the vast territory，social stability and economic prosperity，the political，economic and cultural exchanges among all ethnic groups in the Qing Dynasty were more frequent，more extensive and deeper than any previous era. At this time，the integration phenomenon of Manchu women influenced by Han nationality in clothing，hair style，accessories and other aspects became obvious. Therefore，the wedding dress also shows the characteristics of Han nationality and satisfaction culture.

At this time，the shape of the wedding dress was affected by the Manchu nationality，and the fat degree of the sleeve began to decrease. The variety of fabrics is very rich，only women's skirt is divided into silk skirt，silk skirt，cotton skirt，yarn skirt，cloth skirt，hemp skirt，silk skirt，Ge skirt，etc. The brightness and purity of women's wedding dress color gradually improve，green，red，purple and other bright colors are mostly used by people，especially the red meaning auspicious will be widely used in wedding dress.

3.The characteristics of folk women's wedding dress in the middle of Qing Dynasty

In the late Qing Dynasty，the invasion of foreign powers caused social unrest，forced the opening of trading ports，capitalist commercial civilization and Western clothing culture gradually spread from the coast to the inland. At that time，the two peoples united to resist the enemy became the requirement of the times. At this time，it is the period of integration of man and Han in wedding dress culture. The social stability and national strength are prosperous，and the phenomenon of integration of man and Han is more and more obvious.

In the late Qing Dynasty，the clothing was still the type of upper and lower garments，but compared with the early period，the overall shape and size of the clothing was still greatly reduced，which can be seen from the length of the gown，the girth of the waist and the fatness of the sleeves;the above color retained the traditional red of China;the material of the fabric was silk and cotton.

4. Concluding remarks

Influenced by Manchu and Han culture，women's wedding dress in Qing Dynasty experienced constant changes in clothing，hair style and accessories. The restrictions of the policies in the early Qing Dynasty made a subtle change in the shape of the Phoenix crown of the Manchu women's wedding dress. By the middle period of the country's political stability and economic prosperity，the two ethnic groups had broken the original relatively separate living conditions，and their contacts were gradually close，which changed the appearance of their wedding dress，and the types of accessories were more and more abundant. Until the late period，a unique female wedding dress with the combination of Manchu and Han was formed Image.

作者簡介：沈晓棠（1993.10—），女，汉族，江苏宿迁人，齐鲁工业大学艺术设计学院，17级在读研究生，硕士学位，艺术设计，研究方向：服装设计与形象策划。