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A True Gem

2019-09-10byDavidP.Purnell

珠海 2019年7期
关键词:街巷当地人珠海

by David P.Purnell (U.S.)

When first approaching this ambitious project entailing a comprehensive description of Zhuhai, I realized that my knowledge base and impressions were very limited. During a visit to Shenzhen more than a decade earlier, I had once been taken for a very pleasant day-trip to Zhuhai by the parents of students, but memories had melted together to form a rather blurred montage of beautiful beaches, vast green open spaces (that stood in such contrast to my memories of four years in Beijing in the 1980’s), impressive infrastructure and burgeoning development of luxury tourism. However, as we did research in quest of the real Zhuhai, and then had the pleasure of walking the streets and talking with residents, what I delighted in the most was going beyond those surface features. The glitzy and economically vibrant city on the sea was still there, of course, and stronger than ever. But the multi-faceted nature of Zhuhai, with its unique neighborhoods, rich history and deeply layered culture never failed to surprise, amaze and enchant me as I came to appreciate what a true gem it is.

最初接觸这个雄心勃勃的项目时,我意识到,以我对这座城市极其有限的认识和初次印象,要深入、详尽地描述她是极富挑战的一件事。虽然,十多年前的一次深圳之行,我和同行的学生家长们一起有过一次愉快的珠海一日游。曼妙的海滩、满眼的绿意、开放的氛围、令人印象深刻的城市基础设施、蓬勃的高端旅游业……这些记忆融合在一起,如同一场迷离的电影蒙太奇,构成了我记忆深处珠海的模样。

这一次,我们在街巷漫步、与当地人闲聊,最令我欣喜的,是能拨开城市表面的种种,去探究、发现一个真实的珠海。这一次我发现,这座充满活力的海滨之城鲜活依旧,却也比以往任何时候都富有生机。珠海多层面的、包罗万象的内在——独特的街区,悠久、丰腴的历史以及深厚的文化底蕴,让我感到惊喜连连,沉浸其中,惊叹不已。慢慢地,我意识到这座城市是一个瑰宝。

The quiet grace and erudite atmosphere of ancestral halls, bookstores and music shops of the Beishan community quickly enveloped me and I sensed among the people I talked with a sincere love and solemn stewardship for the local culture as well as traditional Chinese learning and arts.

在北山,那些娴静、文雅的宗祠,各式各样的书店和音乐商店共同打造的文艺氛围包裹着我的身心。在那里,我深刻感受到了人们对于当地文化和中国传统发自内心的领悟和虔诚守护,以及深深的敬畏。

The brave little fishing village of Qi’ao Dao, reputed to have stood up to opium smugglers more than a century earlier, had a different atmosphere - with open-air shops and the bounty of the sea drying in the sun - but the warmth of the people and the confidence and affection they showed for their community and culture was the same.

一个多世纪前,小小的淇澳岛上,英勇的居民曾经与鸦片走私者抗衡。窄窄的街巷两旁是露天商铺,人们在骄阳下晾晒来自大海的各种恩赐。历史让这里的氛围与众不同,而岛民们的热情,他们对于当地文化的自信、认同和深厚情感,却依然是所有珠海人的写照。

Tangjia was another area that, though unique with its long, verdant streets, brimming with historic charm and local culinary treasures, shared a similar spirit with a dignified yet open and friendly “sense of place.”

唐家是另一方独特的天地。长长的、郁郁葱葱的街道充满历史的魅力,还有富有地方特色的美食佳肴,展现着城市一脉相承的精神,充满着开放、友好的地域感。

In summary, as much as I loved the architecture, stunning coastline, and wonderful stories ranging from inspiring acts of Song Dynasty patriotism to the devoted preservation of colorful folk customs and the haunting tales of lost love, it is the warm spirit and “good vibrations”of the people of Zhuhai that will always remain with me.

我爱珠海的建筑、迷人的海岸线、从宋代流传至今的传说、当地人对丰富多彩的民俗文化虔诚的坚守,还有那些关于失落的爱情的故事。然而,更永远地留存在我心里的,是珠海人的热忱,以及我和他们之间的那些美妙的情感交织和心灵感应。

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