很“西部”、很“黑色”、很“喜感”

宋云峰

1. 《恶女订制服》—— 澳大利亚近年来少有的成功电影

《恶女订制服》（The Dressmaker，又译为《裁缝》）是2015年上映的一部关于女性复仇的澳大利亚喜剧剧情片，由乔瑟琳·穆尔豪斯（Jocelyn Moorhouse）根据罗莎莉·汉姆（Rosalie Ham）2000年出版的同名小说改编并导演，由凯特·温丝莱特（Kate Winslet）主演。影片讲述女孩摩特尔·“缇丽”·邓内基（Myrtle “Tilly” Dunnage）在被冤枉杀人而被送走多年之后回到澳大利亚家乡小镇登加塔（Dungatar）照看体弱多病、精神恍惚的母亲的故事。此时的缇丽已是美艳性感的时尚裁缝。她利用自己的性感和巧手彻底改变了保守家乡的时尚观念，也搞清了当年使自己蒙冤的案件，并对那些刻意欺侮冤枉她和母亲的人实施了无情而有趣的报复。所以该片被导演穆尔豪斯戏称为“缝纫机版的伊斯特伍德之《杀无赦》”（Clint Eastwoods Unforgiven with a sewing machine）。

《恶女订制服》上映后在澳大利亚广受好评，取得了票房、评论和评奖等各方面的成功。这部投资1，190万美元的影片在全球收获了2，411万美元的票房收入，是2015年澳大利亚第二卖座的电影，位列其影史票房排行榜第11名。《恶女订制服》在第五届澳大利亚影视艺术学院评奖时获得包括最佳影片、最佳导演、最佳制作、最佳原创音乐、最佳摄影在内的多达13项提名，并且斩获包括最佳女演员、最佳女配角、最佳男配角和最佳服装设计等四项大奖。该片还获得“澳大利亚电影观众选择奖”。

2. 成功的杂糅——《恶女订制服》影评选登

《恶女订制服》在主题、形式和表演等方面都令人耳目一新。其主题探讨了人性恶的一面——虚伪、盲从、偏见、虚荣和恶意如何影响和改变人的看法、情感和行为。影片在形式上融合了黑色电影（原著小说本身就具有哥特式黑暗风格）、美国西部片以及喜剧电影的形式，具有杂糅特点（hybridity）。在摄影和色彩上则融入了澳大利亚的地貌和气候特征，再加上时尚服装的绚丽多彩，使影片温暖而明亮，与黑色的复仇主题形成有趣的对照。另外故事设定在20世纪50年代初，其中有多首当年的流行音乐插入其中，使影片具有浓郁的时代特征和怀旧感。温丝莱特与其他演员出色的表演也是影片成功不可或缺的因素。

导演穆尔豪斯认为影片的女主人公与温丝莱特的气质非常契合：“Kate is perfect for Tilly， shes beautiful， intelligent， and deeply mysterious on screen.”

烂番茄网站对《恶女订制服》的综合评价是：“The Dressmaker boasts a strong central performance by Kate Winslet and a captivating（迷人的）array of narrative weirdness（精灵古怪）—all of which may or may not be a comfortable fit with viewers.”

综艺杂志Variety影评人贾斯汀·张（Justin Chang）这样评价温丝莱特的表演：“Winslet， a difficult actress to root agains（t对付）under any circumstances， has us in her palm from the moment she steps into frame（出现在银幕上）， looking like an avenging dark angel bathed in 50s noir shadows（50年代黑色电影的阴影）.”

《国际银幕》杂志（Screen International）影评人沙拉·沃德（Sarah Ward）赞扬《恶女订制服》：“Light comedy， romantic drama， small-town secrets and revenge schemes might not seem an easy or winning mix； however in The Dressmaker， the combination fits.”她还高度评价影片中的服装设计为其成功起到了关键作用：“with the intricate（错综复杂的）work of costume designers Marion Boyce and Margot Wilson clearly pivotal（关键的）.”

HitFix网站影评人格里高利·埃尔伍德（Gregory Ellwood）则对《恶女订制服》的杂糅风格提出了批评意见：“Its hard to mix over-the-top（过多的）comedy and serious drama.”英国《卫报》影评人本杰明·李（Benjamin Lee）也认为影片风格跳跃杂乱，只给了五星制的两星：“The film is a tonally uneven（调子上不一致的）， genreshifting（风格上有变化的）hurricane（飓风）of a thing， wildly careering off the rails（脱离轨道）and smashing into everything in its view.”

3.《恶女订制服》故事情节

In 1926 in the Australian outback town of Dungatar， schoolboy Stewart Pettyman dies in unknown circumstances. The only witness to his death， schoolgirl Myrtle Dunnage， is branded（打上……烙印）a murderer and exiled（流放）from the town by Stewarts father and town Councillor（地方議员）， Evan Pettyman.

Twenty-five years later in 1951， Myrtle， now an accomplished dressmaker and going by the name Tilly， returns to her hometown to take care of her ill mother Molly. Upon arrival， she is greeted by local police sergeant（警佐）Horatio Farrat， who is secretly a crossdresser（异装者，伪娘）. Unable to remember the events of 1926， Tilly asks her mother about Stewart Pettymans death， as she believes that day left her cursed. Molly claims to know nothing about the incident.

The entire town is quickly alerted to Tillys return， as well as William Beaumont， son of the wealthy and snobbish Elsbeth Beaumont. Gertrude Pratt， the daughter of the owners of the towns general store， possesses feelings for William， but lacks the confidence to tell him.

The town gathers for the local football final game， and everyone is shocked when Tilly turns up to the match in a bright red couture（時装）gown that distracts the Dungatar players. During the interval， the handsome Teddy McSwiney confronts Tilly about her distracting dress， and Tilly agrees to change. After changing into a black but equally alluring outfit（套装）， Tilly gives her business card to Gertrude， offering to make her a dress for the upcoming footballers dance.

The last quarter of the game begins， with the teams having swapped ends of the field（交换场地）. Due to this， the opposing team from the nearby town of Winyerp are distracted by Tillys dress， and Dungatar emerges as the winner. Later， Gertrude arrives at Mollys house to take up Tillys offer. Tilly agrees to make the dress in exchange for the truth about Stewart Pettymans death. Gertrude reveals that Tilly had hidden from Stewart Pettyman who had been bullying her mercilessly， but that she did not witness what had happened.

At the footballers dance， Gertrudes dress is a huge success， and she successfully uses it to capture the attention of William. They later become engaged. Soon， all of the townspeople begin asking Tilly for extravagan（t奢侈的）dresses.

With her charm and tricks， Tilly learns more about what had happened that day and eventually proves her innocence. It turns out that Stewart had subdued（制服）her against a wall， threatening to come at night to murder her mother and assault her if she moved. He charged head-down at（低头冲向）her， intending to injure her. Instead， she moved aside at the last moment， and Stewart hit his head on the wall and broke his neck. Teddy reveals that Barney， who had been sitting on the town silo（储粮库）at the time， saw the whole thing， but due to being developmentally disabled（智障的）， noone thought to ask him and he was afraid people would think he was lying and send him away.

Subsequently， Tilly punishes those who are guilty and evil one by one—Beulah， the teacher who had provided false testimony（证词）， goes mad and is sent away to an asylum（精神病院）； Percival Almanac， the cruel town chemist（药剂师，药商）who mistreated Tilly as a child， drowns himself in a pond； and town Councillor Evan Pettyman， who turns out to be Tillys father， is killed by his wife. Tilly is also saddened by the deaths of Molly and Teddy who fell in love with her but died of an accident.

While the townspeople are away for the Eisteddfod（藝术表演比赛）in the nearby town of Winyerp， Tilly sets fire to her house and to a bolt of red fabric（一卷红布）soaked in kerosene（煤油）that is rolled out down the hill towards the town. Tilly states that she is no longer cursed， and leaves the town by train， with her sewing machine her only luggage. The townspeople， having lost the Eisteddfod， return to the town to find that it has burned down.

4. 台词精选

Teddy Helps Tilly Recall the Accident and Heal Her Trauma

Tilly： （Teddy drags Tilly to the place of childhood accident） Stop it， Teddy.

Teddy： He cornered you like this， didnt he？ Made sure you couldnt scream， and then he said something to you. What did he say？

Tilly： “Stand... stand... stand really， really still（站着别动）， Dunnybum， or Ill come around to your house tonight and kill your mother， the slut（荡妇）. And then， when shes dead， Ill get you.”

Teddy： And he let you go（放开你）， but you didnt run. You just closed your eyes and stood there. Why？

Tilly： Um... I was waiting.

Teddy： For what？ What were you waiting for， Myrtle？

Tilly： Um... To die. To die.

Teddy： Stewart used to run at kids like he was a bull（公牛）. You remember？ Hed run at them with his head down， ram（猛撞）straight in their gut（肚子）. Not this time. This time， it was just you and him.

Tilly： Yeah... （Gasping in pain）

Teddy： You were gonna die， but you didnt. Why？

Tilly： I moved.

Teddy： You moved.

Tilly： I mo... I moved！

Teddy： Barney saw the whole thing from on top of the silo. Stewart hit the wall full pelt（全力击打）and broke his own stupid neck. He didnt tell anyone because... he was afraid theyd say he was lying and send him away again. Instead， they sent you away. Hey. You didnt kill Stewart Pettyman. He killed himself.

Teddy and Tilly Talk About Their Plan After Lovemaking

Teddy： I suppose we shold get married now. Why not？ Its what they hate most. Have a big wedding in Dungatar， rub their noses in it（借此整一下他们）... then move away.

Tilly： Oh... To Where？

Teddy： A better place. Where theres no Elsbeth or Beulah or Councillor Pettyman. No hate or revenge. Better Saturday night dances.

Tilly： What about my mad mother？ Will we take her too？

Teddy： Yeah. Why not？ Well even take my slow（遲钝的）brother.

Tilly： Oh. Yes， Barney. Yeah， well take Barney.

Teddy： That a yes？ （Kissing Tilly）

Molly Persuades Tilly with Her Plan of Revenge

Tilly： （After refusing the townspeoples request of making them costumes） Id rather die than make one costume for those vile（卑鄙的）idiots！ How could you invite them up here？！ They left you to rot！（他们对你不管不顾，见死不救！）

Molly： But Im still alive.

Tilly： They sent me away from you！

Molly： But now youre back. Stop it. Stop it. Stop it（embracing Tilly）. Stop it. （Tilly sobs） It nearly killed me when they sent you away. But I ended up hoping youd never come back to this dreadful place. You were better off away from here. You would have been stuck hiding with me on the top of this hill if you hadnt been sent away. But instead， you can create. You can... transform people. Thats very powerful. Use it. Use it against them. I have a plan， Myrtle.