温州姑娘支教坦桑尼亚

张亦盈

2013年以前，她对外面的世界一无所知。世界很大，她却未曾有过机会出去看看。

初见周子砚，一个纤细高挑的女孩。平刘海、丸子头，面上时刻挂着亲和的笑容。

大学毕业之后，她成为了温州市第六幼儿园的一名幼教老师，每天幼儿园和家两点一线的生活，让她渐渐萌生了“走出去”看看的想法。

过去几年的时光，她去过很多地方，也混混沌沌地完成了很多旅行计划。她说，是时候去做些“值得去做”的事情了。于是，她选择以支教的形式来到了非洲坦桑尼亚。当一双双会笑的眼睛、一张张害羞的面容出现在眼前时，她感觉自己触碰到了诗和远方。

初到非洲面临艰苦环境

一直以来，周子砚的心中有两个梦想：游学与支教。2016年的寒假，她孤身一人前往澳大利亚完成了自己的游学之梦。回到家后，她想，是时候把自己的支教梦想提上行程了。

提到非洲，很多人立刻会联想到贫穷，饥饿，战乱以及疾病，脑海中霎时浮现出一幅幅惨淡而又凄苦的画面。

“非洲是我心中的一片净土，我一定要亲眼去看看。”带着这样的愿景，一个人，一只20寸的皮箱，一台小音箱，历时20小时，周子砚踏上了非洲支教的旅途。

尽管出国前，对非洲的生活环境已经做足了心理准备，但当落地桑给巴尔时，周子砚还是感到微微的诧异。“像是上世纪80年代的中国，所有设施都非常的简陋。”桑给巴尔机场里没有行李运输带，所有的行李都是经过一台破旧的称重器进行磅秤，然后由空服人员拉到一旁。来接机的小哥叫做阿布，当地人，开着一辆破旧的面包车，吱呀吱呀地往机场门口一停，车尾扬起漫天的黄沙……

住宿地点是由当地的一个国际志愿者协会提供的，20平方米的小房间里，地上放着5张破旧的床垫，“可以看见床垫里面的棉花都已经跑出来了。”周子砚描述道，房间里蚊子特别多，时常晚上会被蚊子叮到睡不着觉，“每天都要在床上洒满各种防蚊水，这样才能勉强入睡。”

除了艰苦的住宿条件，吃也成为了一个问题。桑给巴尔市场上的食物种类偏少，加上饮食的不适应，周子砚和她的支教伙伴们经常不吃早餐。同行的一名支教大学生带了几袋旺旺雪饼，每天早上一人吃一小块，“不敢多吃，生怕吃完了，接下来的日子就没东西吃了。”

吸引孩子靠了音乐舞蹈

每天早晨5时30分，周子砚便开始起床洗漱，6时40分准时搭乘校车去她支教的学校。这是一座当地的公办学校，由幼儿园、小学、初中三个年级段组成。早上的例行晨会，校长与孩子们对新老师表示了热烈欢迎。

周子砚的第一堂课，教学对象是幼儿阶段的学生。起初，孩子们对新老师的到来还不能很好的适应，整个课堂显得闹哄哄的。怎样才能让孩子们快速地适应自己的课堂，周子砚想到了一个好方法。第二天，她带上自己的小音箱来到教室中央，放起一首《Walking Walking》的英文歌曲，“音乐响起的一瞬间，所有孩子的目光都集中到我身上。”教室里变得十分安静，孩子们的眼神中闪着光，目不转睛地注视着她。

这一天，周子砚带着她的学生们，在操场上放着《Walking Walking》的歌曲，做起了“小火车”的音律互动，吸引了全校师生的目光。

中午11时30分是学校的休息时间。一天，周子砚同往常一样，准备返回自己的办公室休息。这时候，走廊里突然蹿出一個小女孩。周子砚认得她是学校初中学段的一名学生，女孩羞涩地低着头，拉着周子砚的手询问她，能不能在课后给他们班再多加一节舞蹈课，周子砚欣然答应了。从小学习舞蹈的她，有着良好的舞蹈功底，舞蹈课上，她带着孩子们跳起了傣族的孔雀舞。孩子们学得很认真，“他们知道将手比划成孔雀头的样子，一板一眼地跟着我一起跳。”她说，这些孩子的一举一动，都带给她满满的幸福感。

爱上星空还有张张笑脸

现在，提及非洲，周子砚有了自己的见解：这里的孩子没有印刷的练习本，都是老师用横线、画图一本本画出来，让孩子们涂色、描红;孩子们的书包都是来自中日韩的二手书包;他们分到的糖果零食都会吃得干干净净，最后舔完手指舔桌子。

但即便是这样，他们不管校车多么拥挤，一定要站起来给老师让座;不管有多害羞，碰到老师也会主动打招呼;尽管身高不够，下课也要跳起来帮老师擦黑板。

来到这里，她才明白有一种蓝叫桑给巴尔，像掉进了滤镜的世界。蓝到极致的天，红得发烫的晚霞，像珍珠一样白的沙滩。她说，这里的无拘无束，让她想要放声狂叫和撒腿奔跑！

周子砚说，在这里她听到最多的就是“jambo”和“Karibu”，在斯瓦希里语里是“你好”和“欢迎”的意思。没有了高楼环绕，回归了白墙和平房。这里更多的是一张张安静的笑容，少了几分都市的喧嚣。虽然防蚊水不离身，防蚊乳时刻搽，但是在桑岛多了抬头可以看到满天的星空，蔚蓝到让她玩命看的印度洋，以及那些路过就能印刻在心中的风景。

关于支教，周子砚表示接下来她会有更多的安排，“我希望我走的每一条路都是因为热爱，得失随缘，我觉得，能让我变得更好的永远是自己。”

（本文图片由罗典摄影）

Zhou Ziyan never got a chance to really see the world until 2013. The tall and slim girl from Wenzhou became a teacher at the Wenzhou No. 6 Kindergarten after graduation from college. She traveled abroad to counteract the vapidity of daily routines. The overseas experiences opened her eyes and she decided to do something meaningful. So she made a decision to be a volunteer teacher in Africa.endprint

Zhou finished her study tour in Australia in the winter break of 2016. Back to her daily routines in Wenzhou， she set about making preparations for a bigger plan. “Africa is the Pure Land in my heart， and I must see it with my own two eyes，” said the girl.

After 20 hours on the plane， Zhou Ziyan landed in Zanzibar. “It felt like time traveling back to the 1980s of China，” she recalled， “I was a little shocked when I saw the shabby weighing machine on the conveyer belt.”

A rickety minibus took her to the boarding place arranged by an international volunteer association. “It was a room with nothing but five well-worn mattresses and robust mosquitoes， and I had to survive the nights with a lot of repellent.” Food supply turned out to be a big problem. “Acclimatization took quite a while; for quite a long time we had to go without breakfast and relied on the rice crackers we brought from home.”

The daily routines of Zhou Ziyan and the other volunteers started at 5：30 in the morning. The school bus arrived at the boarding place at 6：40. She worked at a public school that provided education for preschool kids， elementary and junior middle school students. Her first class with the mischievous children turned out to be quite messy. The next day she brought the loudspeaker box she brought from home into the classroom. When the music of Walking Walking started， everyone quieted down， eyes shining with curiosity and excitement. She then brought the kids to the playground. The musical start drew the attention from the whole school. At that moment， she knew the ball was rolling， and things kept getting easier from that day.

School-age children in many places in Africa have to live with serious scarcity of education resources. The schoolbags used by the students in the school Zhou Ziyan worked with were secondhand donations from China， Japan and South Korea. Candies and snacks are a luxury. Life is hard for most of the people there. However， at the opposite extreme of such a tough life is the politeness and innocence of the children who would offer the seat to the teacher on a crowded bus and clean the blackboard on tiptoes after class.

In Tanzania， Zhang found her heart filled with happiness every day. “I saw a color called ‘Zanzibar blue – the innocent， gorgeous color I had never seen anywhere else. I couldnt get enough of the scarlet sunset glow and the sand beach that is as white and glossy as pearls. And the cosmic freedom I felt during my stay in Africa was beyond description.”

In the local Swahili language， a Bantu language that is extensively spoken in the African Great Lakes region and the de facto national and official language of Tanzania， ‘jambo means ‘hello and ‘karibu stands for ‘welcome. “In Zanzibar， you hear the two words all day long，” Zhou Ziyan shared affectionately. In the archipelago where about half the population lives below the poverty line and there are no skyscrapers， Zhou Ziyan saw the best of a world she had never seen before.

“I am where I am because of nothing but passion. It is all about love without measure， and I believe I am the only one to make myself a better person，” said Zhou. She has more plans for being a volunteer teacher in overseas missions.endprint